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Master Clutch Cylinder replacement


Bill Barber
 

I have managed to change the master cylinder on the clutch. Now I am
having trouble getting pressure. I imagine that I need to bleed the air
out of the lines, correct? Is there a trick to this?

Thanks,
Bill Barber
Toronto

'94 EV GLS 2.4l diesel, 5 spd manual


Harry Pinchot
 

Fill the clutch master cylinder then open the bleeder on the slave cylinder
and allow the fluid to run down and out the slave cylinder bleeder. Be sure
you have sufficient fluid to refill the clutch master at least twice. Unlike
brake master cylinders clutch master cylinders do not have any valves so
pumping the pedal is often futile.

Harry P.

Bill Barber wrote:

I have managed to change the master cylinder on the clutch. Now I am
having trouble getting pressure. I imagine that I need to bleed the air
out of the lines, correct? Is there a trick to this?

Thanks,
Bill Barber
Toronto

'94 EV GLS 2.4l diesel, 5 spd manual

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Bill Barber
 

Thanks, I was able to get it bled. My big mistake was starting the job
with the van on the ground. In order to reach the slave cylinder, I had
to get underneath. Thankfully, my 2 sons are home for the holidays and
were able to push the van up onto the ramps. Also, thankfully, I have a
sloping driveway.

I still have the problem of the cracked mounting plate for the master
clutch cylinder which I believe to be a "recall" design fault. However,
I haven't convinced the dealer of that "yet". Anyone else have master
clutch cylinder problems due to a cracked mounting plate? Do I have to
remove the steering column and dash to replace it?

Thanks,
Bill

"94 EV GLS 2.4l diesel manual, 278,000 km

Harry Pinchot wrote:


Fill the clutch master cylinder then open the bleeder on the slave cylinder
and allow the fluid to run down and out the slave cylinder bleeder. Be sure
you have sufficient fluid to refill the clutch master at least twice. Unlike
brake master cylinders clutch master cylinders do not have any valves so
pumping the pedal is often futile.

Harry P.

Bill Barber wrote:

I have managed to change the master cylinder on the clutch. Now I am
having trouble getting pressure. I imagine that I need to bleed the air
out of the lines, correct? Is there a trick to this?


 

Bill,

If bleeding the clutch lines does not work the "normal" way, here's a trick:

You get a few feet of clear plastic tube and connect it to the bleeding nipple on your
SLAVE CLUTCH CYLINDER.
Open the nipple and let the tube fill with brake fluid (some spillage is unavoidable),
then connect it to
the bleeding nipple of your LEFT FRONT BRAKE trying not to introduce any air in. Bleed
your BRAKES in the normal
way (open the nipple, pedal down, close the nipple, pedal up, repeat). You will be
forcing brake fluid backwards
through the clutch lines until all air bubbles escape through the reservoir. No need to
top up the reservoir
since you are just recirculating fluid. I haven't tried it on my EV yet but it works like
a dream on my Audis
which have vibration coils in the clutch lines that trap air. You may want to open the
brake nipple beforehand
to get rid of some of the old, rusty fluid.
Another alternative would be to buy or build a pressure bleeder.
Good luck.

Radek
93 EV
91 Audi V8Q 5-sp
88 Audi 90Q

Message: 13
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 16:17:56 -0500
From: Bill Barber <TheBarbers@...>
Subject: Master Clutch Cylinder replacement

I have managed to change the master cylinder on the clutch. Now I am
having trouble getting pressure. I imagine that I need to bleed the air
out of the lines, correct? Is there a trick to this?

Thanks,
Bill Barber
Toronto

'94 EV GLS 2.4l diesel, 5 spd
manual