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Generator Warning Light


 

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Colleagues,

I own a 2000 Eurovan Camper. The starter battery needed to be replaced. So at the suggestion of the local AAA folks, I called Les Schwab to bring out a proper replacement and replace it, which was done. (See photo below.)

Since the replacement, the generator warning light (a red car battery with + and – inside the battery symbol) has stayed on. It was not on before the replacement. I watched the Les Schwab guy install the battery. He literally touched nothing but the old battery, the cables, and the clamp that secures the battery down. This clamp was rusted out, and the base on which the battery rests is well on its way to oblivion also. These two abnormalities are the only things that were not in good condition. What do you believe has caused the generator warning light to come on and stay on? ?

?Much thanks,

Peter Seidman
4643 John Luhr Road NE
Olympia, WA 98516
510.292.5297


?
?


 

开云体育

Colleagues,

I own a 2000 Eurovan Camper. The starter battery needed to be replaced. So at the suggestion of the local AAA folks, I called Les Schwab to bring out a proper replacement and replace it, which was done. (See photo below.)

Since the replacement, the generator warning light (a red car battery with + and – inside the battery symbol) has stayed on. It was not on before the replacement. I watched the Les Schwab guy install the battery. He literally touched nothing but the old battery, the cables, and the clamp that secures the battery down. This clamp was rusted out, and the base on which the battery rests is well on its way to oblivion also. These two abnormalities are the only things that were not in good condition. What do you believe has caused the generator warning light to come on and stay on? ?

?Much thanks,

Peter Seidman
4643 John Luhr Road NE
Olympia, WA 98516
510.292.5297


?
?


 

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Check the belt which drives the alternator- sounds like the alternator is not working! Could be the alternator also failed and that is why you needed a new battery! If you have a voltmeter check the battery voltage with the engine running. It should be > 14 Volts. If not- either the alternator is not rotating or something in the alternator has failed (Like the voltage regulator which is easily replaceable).


Sam

2002 EVC

On 2/25/2024 6:26 PM, Peter Seidman wrote:

Colleagues,

I own a 2000 Eurovan Camper. The starter battery needed to be replaced. So at the suggestion of the local AAA folks, I called Les Schwab to bring out a proper replacement and replace it, which was done. (See photo below.)

Since the replacement, the generator warning light (a red car battery with + and – inside the battery symbol) has stayed on. It was not on before the replacement. I watched the Les Schwab guy install the battery. He literally touched nothing but the old battery, the cables, and the clamp that secures the battery down. This clamp was rusted out, and the base on which the battery rests is well on its way to oblivion also. These two abnormalities are the only things that were not in good condition. What do you believe has caused the generator warning light to come on and stay on? ?

?Much thanks,

Peter Seidman
4643 John Luhr Road NE
Olympia, WA 98516
510.292.5297


?
?


 

Hello, Peter,

IF we assume the new battery is good...

Then more than likely the battery isn't being charged by the generator.

Squeaky generator belt?

Does idle change when turning on headlights, wipers, a/c or heater?

Battery clamps should always be cleaned before attaching to a new battery

Corroded battery clamps can cause charging issues.

Clean them, reattach, then start vehicle.

If that doesn't work, a?voltage drop test can help pinpoint the real issue.

An auto-parts shop near you may offer a free test of your charging system -- reasonably accurate test for a first pass.

If you diy, then here's an easy test for you:

1. Start vehicle (make sure everything is turned off in car e.g. radio, air, etc)
2. Check battery voltage between positive (red) and negative (black) terminals -- should be 13.9 - 14.5 dc voltage
3. With engine still running.,..turn on headlights, radio, a/c (if you have it), wipers, air
4. Measure? battery voltage again -- should drop only slightly maybe to 12+ volts
5. If voltage drops below 12 dcv, then alternator may not be charging battery
6. If voltage regulator is built-in to alternator, probably alternator is the issue.
7. If voltage regulator is not built-in to alternator -- then you need more tests.

Advanced DIY...do a voltage drop test on the cables from battery to starter. But not recommended if you don't know what you're doing.

Before replacing any alternator (unless it's smoking or on fire), perform a voltage drop test on the cables while cables attached to starter and battery connected.

The alternator may be fine, but the cable(s) could be toast. It's usually the positive cable (red). Continuity's fine; but internal corrosion builds up too much resistance, and full voltage can't pass.

Battery cables are generally cheaper than buying a new alternator.

will
P.S. How did you know the battery needed to be replaced?

P.P.S. Does the generator warning light stay on at any rpm (e.g. when you're driving or van is parked, engine running at idle)? Headlights dim?


 

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When this happened to me, it was the alternator brushes were worn down. ?Replaced them and the alternator is still going strong

Stephen


On Feb 25, 2024, at 5:59?PM, Big C via groups.io <k_kodiak1@...> wrote:

?

Hello, Peter,

IF we assume the new battery is good...

Then more than likely the battery isn't being charged by the generator.

Squeaky generator belt?

Does idle change when turning on headlights, wipers, a/c or heater?

Battery clamps should always be cleaned before attaching to a new battery

Corroded battery clamps can cause charging issues.

Clean them, reattach, then start vehicle.

If that doesn't work, a?voltage drop test can help pinpoint the real issue.

An auto-parts shop near you may offer a free test of your charging system -- reasonably accurate test for a first pass.

If you diy, then here's an easy test for you:

1. Start vehicle (make sure everything is turned off in car e.g. radio, air, etc)
2. Check battery voltage between positive (red) and negative (black) terminals -- should be 13.9 - 14.5 dc voltage
3. With engine still running.,..turn on headlights, radio, a/c (if you have it), wipers, air
4. Measure? battery voltage again -- should drop only slightly maybe to 12+ volts
5. If voltage drops below 12 dcv, then alternator may not be charging battery
6. If voltage regulator is built-in to alternator, probably alternator is the issue.
7. If voltage regulator is not built-in to alternator -- then you need more tests.

Advanced DIY...do a voltage drop test on the cables from battery to starter. But not recommended if you don't know what you're doing.

Before replacing any alternator (unless it's smoking or on fire), perform a voltage drop test on the cables while cables attached to starter and battery connected.

The alternator may be fine, but the cable(s) could be toast. It's usually the positive cable (red). Continuity's fine; but internal corrosion builds up too much resistance, and full voltage can't pass.

Battery cables are generally cheaper than buying a new alternator.

will
P.S. How did you know the battery needed to be replaced?

P.P.S. Does the generator warning light stay on at any rpm (e.g. when you're driving or van is parked, engine running at idle)? Headlights dim?


 

Hate to be the one to tell you but that battery is two (2) sizes too small!

Came with an H6, you can fit an H7 group size!

Will this cause your battery light issue? No. but Schwab sold you an undersized battery!

Light on indicates the Alternator is not charging...

Check the strip fuses in front of the battery...

Check the battery voltage, before and after starting vehicle and again with lights on...

Check integrity of the ground cables, both to the chassis and to the back of the engine...

Alternator may fail, regulator (including brushes) can fail and is easily changed (it's part of the Alternator)

Not likely the serpentine belt has failed... but easy to check, and it it has your water pump is not being driven either...