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Brake Wear Warning Light

 

Fifty thousand miles is about the right time to need new pads, particularly
in the heavier EVC. The front and the rear pads are sized to wear out about
the same time. While the front pads are larger, they apply most of your
stopping power. One brake pad on each wheel has a wire embedded in it. When any one
of those four pads is worn down to that wire such that the wire is severed,
"brake warning light" circuit continuity is now lacking and the light on the
dash board illuminates. In addition, if for some reason a wire elsewhere in
the circuit gets severed or a connector is loose, circuit continuity is also
broken and the light will illuminate.

In my case, the front pads were the first to need replacement. When the
light illuminated at 73,000 miles, I found that one of the front pads had worn
to the extent that the wire in the pad was severed. Measuring that pad
revealed that I could expect about another 40,000 miles from the pad before the
pad's backing plate scraped the rotor. But that would mean 40,000 more miles
with a light and periodic buzzer. Hence, I changed the front pads and the
dashboard light extinguished. About 2000 miles later, the light again illuminated
and I found that the wire in one of the rear pads was severed. After
replacing the rear pads the light extinguished and remains so at 124,000 miles.

I suspect that the wire in each pad is embedded at an imprecise depth such
that once the wire is severed, one may have anywhere from zero to five mm of
pad remaining and perhaps more.

If you want to "reset the warning system" then you must restore circuit
continuity. My suspicion is that replacing the pads on all four wheels will
solve your problem. There are instructions in our files section for DIY pad
replacement.

Good luck,
Bob W.

In a message dated 6/10/2008 7:32:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
clyde318000@... writes:

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide





****Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
2008. ()
leadrcd
 

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide
David Richoux
 

It could be that even though your pads are good, there sometimes is a fault in the detector wire built into the pads. I have seen this come up on the list a few times (has not happened to me.) Some searching through the archives and files section might find a quick cure (or you may be SOL!)

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

On Jun 10, 2008, at 4:31 PM, leadrcd wrote:

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide
 

There is no easy way to do this. Those of us who have changed the brake pads several times have made a connector using the old one off the brake pods so that the two wires are connected together. Plug that into the complaing wheel and the wanring goes away.

Did your Les Schwab person check both front and back? They usually don't check the rear wheels, but the Eurovan is one of those rare vehicles that wear the rear pads as quick as the front.

--Stephen

At 05:31 PM 6/10/2008, you wrote:

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide
gti_matt
 

--- leadrcd <clyde318000@...> wrote:
I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.
Check both front and back pads to see what the situation is with the wire/sensor.
 

for what its worth, if you never want to see that light again or hear the sound, you can take the wiring from your old pads that are severed and use a wire connector to put them together. that restores continuity and the light stays out. when you install your new pads you just don't connect the sensor and you know when to replace them the same way we've know for the past 50 years.
peace
mike
Judy
 

If the wipers and headlights also go out when the audible alarm comes on, it might be the ignition switch-this is what happened to my van-
Judy
02 WK

----- Original Message ----
From: leadrcd <clyde318000@...>
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 7:31:45 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Brake Wear Warning Light

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide


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David Richoux
 

Bob,

I do not think I am a "heavy breaker," nor is my wife (who sometimes drives the EVC) but how in the heck did you get 73K+ out of one set of Eurovan brakes?! My 2000 had one disk/pad replacement by the previous owner at about 35K and I had to do it again at 60K. Do you have a manual trans?

The two mechanics who have worked on my EVC (both very well trusted) explain how VW (and most other German vehicles) have "soft rotors" and high wearing pads, and that my experience is not that unusual.

I have often heard the mechanic folklore that it is cheaper to replace brakes than to repair a clutch/transmission, so that is why it is better to use the brakes instead of "engine braking" but it seems like mine are wearing out a lot quicker than yours do! We do use (automatic) 3rd gear on descending mountain roads and we don't pull any trailers.

Any tips for keeping the brakes working for so long? Were you just lucky?

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

On Jun 10, 2008, at 6:48 PM, Sea2river@... wrote:

Fifty thousand miles is about the right time to need new pads, particularly
in the heavier EVC. The front and the rear pads are sized to wear out about
the same time. While the front pads are larger, they apply most of your
stopping power. One brake pad on each wheel has a wire embedded in it. When any one
of those four pads is worn down to that wire such that the wire is severed,
"brake warning light" circuit continuity is now lacking and the light on the
dash board illuminates. In addition, if for some reason a wire elsewhere in
the circuit gets severed or a connector is loose, circuit continuity is also
broken and the light will illuminate.

In my case, the front pads were the first to need replacement. When the
light illuminated at 73,000 miles, I found that one of the front pads had worn
to the extent that the wire in the pad was severed. Measuring that pad
revealed that I could expect about another 40,000 miles from the pad before the
pad's backing plate scraped the rotor. But that would mean 40,000 more miles
with a light and periodic buzzer. Hence, I changed the front pads and the
dashboard light extinguished. About 2000 miles later, the light again illuminated
and I found that the wire in one of the rear pads was severed. After
replacing the rear pads the light extinguished and remains so at 124,000 miles.

I suspect that the wire in each pad is embedded at an imprecise depth such
that once the wire is severed, one may have anywhere from zero to five mm of
pad remaining and perhaps more.

If you want to "reset the warning system" then you must restore circuit
continuity. My suspicion is that replacing the pads on all four wheels will
solve your problem. There are instructions in our files section for DIY pad
replacement.

Good luck,
Bob W.


In a message dated 6/10/2008 7:32:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
clyde318000@... writes:

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide
 

Two points on limiting brake pad/rotor wear:
1) My experience is as a ship driver...spent 31 years in the Navy "driving"
destroyers, patrol gunboats, and aircraft carriers, none of which had brakes.
Doing so, one learns to anticipate the need to decrease power early on in
order to avoid giving a backing bell.
2) I have a 2001 Weekender (automatic transmission) which is significantly
lighter than an EVC. I had similar brake pad/shoe wear on my 1993 Weekender
until I sold it at 164,000 miles while it was still on its first replacement
brake set.

Good luck,
Bob W.

In a message dated 6/11/2008 2:39:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
tubaman@... writes:

Bob,

I do not think I am a "heavy breaker," nor is my wife (who sometimes
drives the EVC) but how in the heck did you get 73K+ out of one set
of Eurovan brakes?! My 2000 had one disk/pad replacement by the
previous owner at about 35K and I had to do it again at 60K. Do you
have a manual trans?

The two mechanics who have worked on my EVC (both very well trusted)
explain how VW (and most other German vehicles) have "soft rotors"
and high wearing pads, and that my experience is not that unusual.

I have often heard the mechanic folklore that it is cheaper to
replace brakes than to repair a clutch/transmissionreplace brakes than t
it is better to use the brakes instead of "engine braking" but it
seems like mine are wearing out a lot quicker than yours do! We do
use (automatic) 3rd gear on descending mountain roads and we don't
pull any trailers.

Any tips for keeping the brakes working for so long? Were you just
lucky?

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC




****Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
2008. ()
 

Jeez - I was thinking the same thing. With our Weekender we change
them every 25k miles. Granted we do a lot (!) of around town /
stop/go in Connecticut, its a bit hilly and we both are not the most
gentle one on the brakes but 73K? That is unreal! Any tips?

--- In ev_update@..., David Richoux <tubaman@...> wrote:

Bob,

I do not think I am a "heavy breaker," nor is my wife (who sometimes
drives the EVC) but how in the heck did you get 73K+ out of one set
of Eurovan brakes?! My 2000 had one disk/pad replacement by the
previous owner at about 35K and I had to do it again at 60K. Do you
have a manual trans?

The two mechanics who have worked on my EVC (both very well trusted)
explain how VW (and most other German vehicles) have "soft rotors"
and high wearing pads, and that my experience is not that unusual.

I have often heard the mechanic folklore that it is cheaper to
replace brakes than to repair a clutch/transmission, so that is why
it is better to use the brakes instead of "engine braking" but it
seems like mine are wearing out a lot quicker than yours do! We do
use (automatic) 3rd gear on descending mountain roads and we don't
pull any trailers.

Any tips for keeping the brakes working for so long? Were you just
lucky?

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

On Jun 10, 2008, at 6:48 PM, Sea2river@... wrote:

Fifty thousand miles is about the right time to need new pads,
particularly
in the heavier EVC. The front and the rear pads are sized to wear
out about
the same time. While the front pads are larger, they apply most of
your
stopping power. One brake pad on each wheel has a wire embedded in
it. When any one
of those four pads is worn down to that wire such that the wire is
severed,
"brake warning light" circuit continuity is now lacking and the
light on the
dash board illuminates. In addition, if for some reason a wire
elsewhere in
the circuit gets severed or a connector is loose, circuit
continuity is also
broken and the light will illuminate.

In my case, the front pads were the first to need replacement.
When the
light illuminated at 73,000 miles, I found that one of the front
pads had worn
to the extent that the wire in the pad was severed. Measuring
that pad
revealed that I could expect about another 40,000 miles from the
pad before the
pad's backing plate scraped the rotor. But that would mean 40,000
more miles
with a light and periodic buzzer. Hence, I changed the front pads
and the
dashboard light extinguished. About 2000 miles later, the light
again illuminated
and I found that the wire in one of the rear pads was severed. After
replacing the rear pads the light extinguished and remains so at
124,000 miles.

I suspect that the wire in each pad is embedded at an imprecise
depth such
that once the wire is severed, one may have anywhere from zero to
five mm of
pad remaining and perhaps more.

If you want to "reset the warning system" then you must restore
circuit
continuity. My suspicion is that replacing the pads on all four
wheels will
solve your problem. There are instructions in our files section for
DIY pad
replacement.

Good luck,
Bob W.


In a message dated 6/10/2008 7:32:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
clyde318000@... writes:

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide
 

One more point with regard to brake pad wear sensors, is that they are
embedded in each
brake pad at the uppermost point of the inboard pad of each brake
caliper. This is right at the
inner side at the outer edge of each brake rotor. Looking at a brake
rotor from a view of the edge, the shape of the rotor changes, when new,
from a flat surface, to some like this )(....meaning that they become
somewhat concave and have a lip at the perimeter of the disc.
This is the portion of the rotor that will first make contact with the
sensor and cut thru the wire. This is often the reason why
there is plenty of friction material remaining in the middle of the
brake pad, yet the wear sensor light has illuminated in
your instrument cluster. It is usually an indication the the rotors are
beyond the wear limit and should be discarded
and replaced with new ones. Personally, I never "turn" or reface any of
my brake rotors on any of our vehicles. I
feel that this procedure is silly and a thing of the past. If the
rotors are in good shape, simply put the new pads on and go easy
on the brakes for the first day or two. The will become "bedded in",
conforming to the shape of the old rotor very quickly.
If the rotors are scored or have been overheated, warped, etc, then
chuck them out and replace them. It is that simple.
I don't profess this because I want to sell brake rotors. It is simply
a matter of safety. More important than making your car go,
is making it stop quickly and safely and brakes are one of the most
important systems in your vehicle. Your safety, your family's
safety and that of everyone else on the road depends upon it.

Steve Schock
EUROPARTS-San Diego

The Eurovan parts source
Website: europarts-sd.com
Phone: 858-451-0020

Secure online ordering at:




Sea2river@... wrote:


Fifty thousand miles is about the right time to need new pads,
particularly
in the heavier EVC. The front and the rear pads are sized to wear out
about
the same time. While the front pads are larger, they apply most of your
stopping power. One brake pad on each wheel has a wire embedded in it.
When any one
of those four pads is worn down to that wire such that the wire is
severed,
"brake warning light" circuit continuity is now lacking and the light
on the
dash board illuminates. In addition, if for some reason a wire
elsewhere in
the circuit gets severed or a connector is loose, circuit continuity
is also
broken and the light will illuminate.

In my case, the front pads were the first to need replacement. When the
light illuminated at 73,000 miles, I found that one of the front pads
had worn
to the extent that the wire in the pad was severed. Measuring that pad
revealed that I could expect about another 40,000 miles from the pad
before the
pad's backing plate scraped the rotor. But that would mean 40,000 more
miles
with a light and periodic buzzer. Hence, I changed the front pads and the
dashboard light extinguished. About 2000 miles later, the light again
illuminated
and I found that the wire in one of the rear pads was severed. After
replacing the rear pads the light extinguished and remains so at
124,000 miles.

I suspect that the wire in each pad is embedded at an imprecise depth
such
that once the wire is severed, one may have anywhere from zero to five
mm of
pad remaining and perhaps more.

If you want to "reset the warning system" then you must restore circuit
continuity. My suspicion is that replacing the pads on all four wheels
will
solve your problem. There are instructions in our files section for
DIY pad
replacement.

Good luck,
Bob W.


In a message dated 6/10/2008 7:32:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
clyde318000@... <mailto:clyde318000%40msn.com> writes:

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide

****Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
2008. (
<>)
Joe R
 

Steve.

Rotors are not too expensive and sometimes down right cheap. My thinking is by doing the job myself I'm saving enough to warrant the cost of new rotors and it's well worth the expense of rotors from you. I've not had much luck getting new pads seating properly to worn rotors.

Joe R

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Schock
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Brake Wear Warning Light


One more point with regard to brake pad wear sensors, is that they are
embedded in each
brake pad at the uppermost point of the inboard pad of each brake
caliper. This is right at the
inner side at the outer edge of each brake rotor. Looking at a brake
rotor from a view of the edge, the shape of the rotor changes, when new,
from a flat surface, to some like this )(....meaning that they become
somewhat concave and have a lip at the perimeter of the disc.
This is the portion of the rotor that will first make contact with the
sensor and cut thru the wire. This is often the reason why
there is plenty of friction material remaining in the middle of the
brake pad, yet the wear sensor light has illuminated in
your instrument cluster. It is usually an indication the the rotors are
beyond the wear limit and should be discarded
and replaced with new ones. Personally, I never "turn" or reface any of
my brake rotors on any of our vehicles. I
feel that this procedure is silly and a thing of the past. If the
rotors are in good shape, simply put the new pads on and go easy
on the brakes for the first day or two. The will become "bedded in",
conforming to the shape of the old rotor very quickly.
If the rotors are scored or have been overheated, warped, etc, then
chuck them out and replace them. It is that simple.
I don't profess this because I want to sell brake rotors. It is simply
a matter of safety. More important than making your car go,
is making it stop quickly and safely and brakes are one of the most
important systems in your vehicle. Your safety, your family's
safety and that of everyone else on the road depends upon it.

Steve Schock
EUROPARTS-San Diego

The Eurovan parts source
Website: europarts-sd.com
Phone: 858-451-0020

Secure online ordering at:


Sea2river@... wrote:
>
> Fifty thousand miles is about the right time to need new pads,
> particularly
> in the heavier EVC. The front and the rear pads are sized to wear out
> about
> the same time. While the front pads are larger, they apply most of your
> stopping power. One brake pad on each wheel has a wire embedded in it.
> When any one
> of those four pads is worn down to that wire such that the wire is
> severed,
> "brake warning light" circuit continuity is now lacking and the light
> on the
> dash board illuminates. In addition, if for some reason a wire
> elsewhere in
> the circuit gets severed or a connector is loose, circuit continuity
> is also
> broken and the light will illuminate.
>
> In my case, the front pads were the first to need replacement. When the
> light illuminated at 73,000 miles, I found that one of the front pads
> had worn
> to the extent that the wire in the pad was severed. Measuring that pad
> revealed that I could expect about another 40,000 miles from the pad
> before the
> pad's backing plate scraped the rotor. But that would mean 40,000 more
> miles
> with a light and periodic buzzer. Hence, I changed the front pads and the
> dashboard light extinguished. About 2000 miles later, the light again
> illuminated
> and I found that the wire in one of the rear pads was severed. After
> replacing the rear pads the light extinguished and remains so at
> 124,000 miles.
>
> I suspect that the wire in each pad is embedded at an imprecise depth
> such
> that once the wire is severed, one may have anywhere from zero to five
> mm of
> pad remaining and perhaps more.
>
> If you want to "reset the warning system" then you must restore circuit
> continuity. My suspicion is that replacing the pads on all four wheels
> will
> solve your problem. There are instructions in our files section for
> DIY pad
> replacement.
>
> Good luck,
> Bob W.
>
>
> In a message dated 6/10/2008 7:32:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> clyde318000@... <mailto:clyde318000%40msn.com> writes:
>
> I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
> on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
> Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
> shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
> warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
> every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
> buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.
>
> Clyde the Guide
>
> ****Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
> 2008. (
> <>)
>
>
>
>
gti_matt
 

--- David Richoux <tubaman@...> wrote:
I have often heard the mechanic folklore that it is cheaper to
replace brakes than to repair a clutch/transmission, so that is why
it is better to use the brakes instead of "engine braking" but it
seems like mine are wearing out a lot quicker than yours do! We do
use (automatic) 3rd gear on descending mountain roads and we don't
pull any trailers.
Can someone explain this logic to me? Yes I understand that transmissions and clutches are
pricier than brakes, but where do we know that engine braking places significant wear on the
transmission for this to even be a concern?

After all, automatics are pretty much engine braking so some degree any time you are decelerating.
Although you are assisting with the brakes, the car is still in gear, the car is still
downshifting with you, depending on your speed the torque converter is locked or unlocked (making
some different in the revs...but yet when it isn't revving (unlocked), it's still in gear and
actually in a slipping hydraulic mode). Yet nobody says "anytime you are braking, put your
automatic in 'N' to save it!"

I drove a Mk2 GTI for over 16 years and 200K miles on the **original** clutch and did engine
braking and never had an ounce of transmission or clutch trouble on that car.

Do we really know that the wear on a transmission from engine braking is noticeably higher than
the wear from accelerating? Seems to me it's still under a load, just an opposite one.
forest flanigan
 

This is not about my EVC , but I was able to get 103 K out of the front pads
on a Ford Ranger with an oversized Lance cab over camper on it. I live in
the Sierra Foothills so most of my driving is in hills.I don't use the
clutch to stop but do use the gears to control the vehicle on hills. As Bob
says, anticipating the need to stop goes a long way toward long lasting
brakes. I've got 117k on the pickup now and still haven't replaced the rear
brakes---but I did replace the camper with a 95 EVC :)

Forest

On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 6:47 AM, Florian <fkahlert@...> wrote:

Jeez - I was thinking the same thing. With our Weekender we change
them every 25k miles. Granted we do a lot (!) of around town /
stop/go in Connecticut, its a bit hilly and we both are not the most
gentle one on the brakes but 73K? That is unreal! Any tips?


--- In ev_update@... <ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, David
Richoux <tubaman@...> wrote:

Bob,

I do not think I am a "heavy breaker," nor is my wife (who sometimes
drives the EVC) but how in the heck did you get 73K+ out of one set
of Eurovan brakes?! My 2000 had one disk/pad replacement by the
previous owner at about 35K and I had to do it again at 60K. Do you
have a manual trans?

The two mechanics who have worked on my EVC (both very well trusted)
explain how VW (and most other German vehicles) have "soft rotors"
and high wearing pads, and that my experience is not that unusual.

I have often heard the mechanic folklore that it is cheaper to
replace brakes than to repair a clutch/transmission, so that is why
it is better to use the brakes instead of "engine braking" but it
seems like mine are wearing out a lot quicker than yours do! We do
use (automatic) 3rd gear on descending mountain roads and we don't
pull any trailers.

Any tips for keeping the brakes working for so long? Were you just
lucky?

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

On Jun 10, 2008, at 6:48 PM, Sea2river@... wrote:

Fifty thousand miles is about the right time to need new pads,
particularly
in the heavier EVC. The front and the rear pads are sized to wear
out about
the same time. While the front pads are larger, they apply most of
your
stopping power. One brake pad on each wheel has a wire embedded in
it. When any one
of those four pads is worn down to that wire such that the wire is
severed,
"brake warning light" circuit continuity is now lacking and the
light on the
dash board illuminates. In addition, if for some reason a wire
elsewhere in
the circuit gets severed or a connector is loose, circuit
continuity is also
broken and the light will illuminate.

In my case, the front pads were the first to need replacement.
When the
light illuminated at 73,000 miles, I found that one of the front
pads had worn
to the extent that the wire in the pad was severed. Measuring
that pad
revealed that I could expect about another 40,000 miles from the
pad before the
pad's backing plate scraped the rotor. But that would mean 40,000
more miles
with a light and periodic buzzer. Hence, I changed the front pads
and the
dashboard light extinguished. About 2000 miles later, the light
again illuminated
and I found that the wire in one of the rear pads was severed. After
replacing the rear pads the light extinguished and remains so at
124,000 miles.

I suspect that the wire in each pad is embedded at an imprecise
depth such
that once the wire is severed, one may have anywhere from zero to
five mm of
pad remaining and perhaps more.

If you want to "reset the warning system" then you must restore
circuit
continuity. My suspicion is that replacing the pads on all four
wheels will
solve your problem. There are instructions in our files section for
DIY pad
replacement.

Good luck,
Bob W.


In a message dated 6/10/2008 7:32:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
clyde318000@... writes:

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide
pat_under_hill
 

Here's a good way to stress your marriage:

,0,4192306.story


--- In ev_update@..., "forest flanigan" <creoflan@...> wrote:

This is not about my EVC , but I was able to get 103 K out of the
front pads
on a Ford Ranger with an oversized Lance cab over camper on it. I
live in
the Sierra Foothills so most of my driving is in hills.I don't use the
clutch to stop but do use the gears to control the vehicle on hills.
As Bob
says, anticipating the need to stop goes a long way toward long lasting
brakes. I've got 117k on the pickup now and still haven't replaced
the rear
brakes---but I did replace the camper with a 95 EVC :)

Forest

On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 6:47 AM, Florian <fkahlert@...> wrote:

Jeez - I was thinking the same thing. With our Weekender we change
them every 25k miles. Granted we do a lot (!) of around town /
stop/go in Connecticut, its a bit hilly and we both are not the most
gentle one on the brakes but 73K? That is unreal! Any tips?


--- In ev_update@... <ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, David
Richoux <tubaman@> wrote:

Bob,

I do not think I am a "heavy breaker," nor is my wife (who sometimes
drives the EVC) but how in the heck did you get 73K+ out of one set
of Eurovan brakes?! My 2000 had one disk/pad replacement by the
previous owner at about 35K and I had to do it again at 60K. Do you
have a manual trans?

The two mechanics who have worked on my EVC (both very well trusted)
explain how VW (and most other German vehicles) have "soft rotors"
and high wearing pads, and that my experience is not that unusual.

I have often heard the mechanic folklore that it is cheaper to
replace brakes than to repair a clutch/transmission, so that is why
it is better to use the brakes instead of "engine braking" but it
seems like mine are wearing out a lot quicker than yours do! We do
use (automatic) 3rd gear on descending mountain roads and we don't
pull any trailers.

Any tips for keeping the brakes working for so long? Were you just
lucky?

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

On Jun 10, 2008, at 6:48 PM, Sea2river@ wrote:

Fifty thousand miles is about the right time to need new pads,
particularly
in the heavier EVC. The front and the rear pads are sized to wear
out about
the same time. While the front pads are larger, they apply most of
your
stopping power. One brake pad on each wheel has a wire embedded in
it. When any one
of those four pads is worn down to that wire such that the wire is
severed,
"brake warning light" circuit continuity is now lacking and the
light on the
dash board illuminates. In addition, if for some reason a wire
elsewhere in
the circuit gets severed or a connector is loose, circuit
continuity is also
broken and the light will illuminate.

In my case, the front pads were the first to need replacement.
When the
light illuminated at 73,000 miles, I found that one of the front
pads had worn
to the extent that the wire in the pad was severed. Measuring
that pad
revealed that I could expect about another 40,000 miles from the
pad before the
pad's backing plate scraped the rotor. But that would mean 40,000
more miles
with a light and periodic buzzer. Hence, I changed the front pads
and the
dashboard light extinguished. About 2000 miles later, the light
again illuminated
and I found that the wire in one of the rear pads was severed.
After
replacing the rear pads the light extinguished and remains so at
124,000 miles.

I suspect that the wire in each pad is embedded at an imprecise
depth such
that once the wire is severed, one may have anywhere from zero to
five mm of
pad remaining and perhaps more.

If you want to "reset the warning system" then you must restore
circuit
continuity. My suspicion is that replacing the pads on all four
wheels will
solve your problem. There are instructions in our files
section for
DIY pad
replacement.

Good luck,
Bob W.


In a message dated 6/10/2008 7:32:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
clyde318000@ writes:

I have a '02 EVC with 50k miles on it. Last week a warning
light came
on indicating that the brake pads needed replacement. My
friendly Les
Schwab dealer pulled the tires and found that the pads were in
good
shape - more than 50% wear left. That's the good news, the bad is
warning light remains on and emits an earspliting buzzing
sound about
every third time I start up the van (same sound as the low fuel
buzzer). Any thoughts on resetting the warning system? Thanks.

Clyde the Guide
Miles Koppersmith
 

We still have the original brake pads at 62,000 on our 2002 EVC. At the 60,000 mile service the dealer said they were good-not even half worn. Must be due to the primary use being highway miles.

Miles Koppersmith

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