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The diaphragm inside my 2000 EVC's PCV/breather is warped and leaking oil and the part is NLA. Anybody have one they are willing to sell or have advice on how to get around this issue.?
-John
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John
I dont know if it’s the same or similar part on the AXK (2001-2003) but ours is on the top side of the horseshoe portion of the intake “hose” and has what looks like a tricuspid valve flap. It normally seems to be permanently bonded to the non-flexible ”horseshoe hose” of the intake. (Air mass sensor hose- NLA and was ridiculous in price when it was.). This is between the MAF and the air intake control.
The diaphragm portion, just like a heart valve seems to cake up with deposits and stop it’s functioning due to lake of flexibility, thus not sealing well. ?As to the oil leakage into that has always been an issue but without adding an “oil can catcher” I have heard is not resolvable. ?Don’t know if anyone has ever done it on EVs
what I’ve done to help my tricuspid is use “Gunk” to dissolve the deposit. ?The problem is cleaning the back side. A tricky procedure as access is less than limited. You must spray a lot of Gunk in the “hose and gravity drop it into that area. ?This has given me limited success in cleaning it. ?I’ve thought about cutting or forcing it off the hose, then making a new sealer flap out of some material (inert but flexible and one that tolerates heat, gas, oil etc) but haven’t had enough issue to pursue it. It would then have to be resealed back on with JB Weld or preferably in some way to make it seal well but be removable.
In the meantime I’m using Gunk til it doesn’t work. Be curious if others have found a cure. ?Happy Trails.
Phil B 2003 EV WE 288kmi
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This problem is not going to go away as our EVC's age. Nor will the problem be confined to EVCs alone. If someone has a schematic for this PCV/breather it could be made available as a downloadable drawing, from which made as a 3D printable part.
For example, I just downloaded a replacement knob for my clothes dryer.
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On Wednesday, May 19, 2021, 5:18:56 AM PDT, Phil <apothecarymortar@...> wrote:
John
I dont know if it’s the same or similar part on the AXK (2001-2003) but ours is on the top side of the horseshoe portion of the intake “hose” and has what looks like a tricuspid valve flap. It normally seems to be permanently bonded to the non-flexible ”horseshoe hose” of the intake. (Air mass sensor hose- NLA and was ridiculous in price when it was.). This is between the MAF and the air intake control.
The diaphragm portion, just like a heart valve seems to cake up with deposits and stop it’s functioning due to lake of flexibility, thus not sealing well. ?As to the oil leakage into that has always been an issue but without adding an “oil can catcher” I have heard is not resolvable. ?Don’t know if anyone has ever done it on EVs
what I’ve done to help my tricuspid is use “Gunk” to dissolve the deposit. ?The problem is cleaning the back side. A tricky procedure as access is less than limited. You must spray a lot of Gunk in the “hose and gravity drop it into that area. ?This has given me limited success in cleaning it. ?I’ve thought about cutting or forcing it off the hose, then making a new sealer flap out of some material (inert but flexible and one that tolerates heat, gas, oil etc) but haven’t had enough issue to pursue it. It would then have to be resealed back on with JB Weld or preferably in some way to make it seal well but be removable.
In the meantime I’m using Gunk til it doesn’t work. Be curious if others have found a cure. ?Happy Trails.
Phil B 2003 EV WE 288kmi
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I have a 2002 Eurovan. ?Mine developed a crack witch I think occurred from the misalignment after it was reinstalled after the stealership did some maintenance. ?I chose not to replace the part at the time due to the cost. ?I did repair mine using a two part epoxy putty and it has held up great and has worked for the past 12 years with no problems, just make sure you clean the part real good and you may want to lightly sand the areas where your going to apply the epoxy putty to help with the bond.?
I think that is going to be important that we will have to be creative in order to keep these old vans that we love so much on the road!
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John, Last fall I discovered I had the same problem on my 2001 Rialta. I was about to leave on a 500 mile trip so I made a quick modification by removing the VW PVC valve from the assembly and fabricated a replacement. I was very easy. I replaced the VW PVC with a standard BALL TYPE PVC and used 5/8 heater hose, (2) 90 degree abs fittings and hose clamps.?I just cut the hoses and fittings? to fit. Keep in mind that the VW PVC is vacuum operated so PLUG THE HOSE and the replacement PVC is gravity/pressure operated so the PVC MUST BE VERTICAL(valve closed to the bottom).? For those negative geniuses out there that are about to say that this is a bad idea because the crankcase pressure will not be correct. The slight variation will be insignificant. Sorry I did not take pictures as I was in a big hurry and when I had it all fitted I left on my trip. Absolutely no codes in a 500 mile trip when previously I would get a code in less than 100 miles. John, Due to Canadian travel restrictions I can not access my R but if if you want to discuss this further you can contact me at gundylake@... can guess the rest
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Thanks, everyone for the replies! I think the 2000 part (#021 129 101D) is different from the 2001 pcv. See pictures below.?
@Jonathan? would be great to get a 3D print, but I wonder if they would be able to print it with material?that is heat resistant enough??
@gundylake thanks for the response. Are you talking about this using something like this installed vertically?
I'm thinking maybe I'll try to disassemble the existing part and replace the existing diaphragm?with a harvested diaphragm.?
John, Last fall I discovered I had the same problem on my 2001 Rialta. I was about to leave on a 500 mile trip so I made a quick modification by removing the VW PVC valve from the assembly and fabricated a replacement.
I was very easy. I replaced the VW PVC with a standard BALL TYPE PVC and used 5/8 heater hose, (2) 90 degree abs fittings and hose clamps.?I just cut the hoses and fittings? to fit.
Keep in mind that the VW PVC is vacuum operated so PLUG THE HOSE and the replacement PVC is gravity/pressure operated so the PVC MUST BE VERTICAL(valve closed to the bottom).?
For those negative geniuses out there that are about to say that this is a bad idea because the crankcase pressure will not be correct. The slight variation will be insignificant.
Sorry I did not take pictures as I was in a big hurry and when I had it all fitted I left on my trip. Absolutely no codes in a 500 mile trip when previously I would get a code in less than 100 miles.
John, Due to Canadian travel restrictions I can not access my R but if if you want to discuss this further you can contact me at
gundylake@... can guess the rest
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I found a diagram:?
but no dimensions unfortunately.
A high temp filament like ABS might work.
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Show quoted text
On Friday, May 21, 2021, 9:47:55 AM PDT, John H. <jheggest@...> wrote: Thanks, everyone for the replies! I think the 2000 part (#021 129 101D) is different from the 2001 pcv. See pictures below.? @Jonathan? would be great to get a 3D print, but I wonder if they would be able to print it with material?that is heat resistant enough?? @gundylake thanks for the response. Are you talking about this using something like this installed vertically? I'm thinking maybe I'll try to disassemble the existing part and replace the existing diaphragm?with a harvested diaphragm.? On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 8:12 PM Gundylake via groups.io <gundylake@...> wrote: John, Last fall I discovered I had the same problem on my 2001 Rialta. I was about to leave on a 500 mile trip so I made a quick modification by removing the VW PVC valve from the assembly and fabricated a replacement.
I was very easy. I replaced the VW PVC with a standard BALL TYPE PVC and used 5/8 heater hose, (2) 90 degree abs fittings and hose clamps.?I just cut the hoses and fittings? to fit.
Keep in mind that the VW PVC is vacuum operated so PLUG THE HOSE and the replacement PVC is gravity/pressure operated so the PVC MUST BE VERTICAL(valve closed to the bottom).?
For those negative geniuses out there that are about to say that this is a bad idea because the crankcase pressure will not be correct. The slight variation will be insignificant.
Sorry I did not take pictures as I was in a big hurry and when I had it all fitted I left on my trip. Absolutely no codes in a 500 mile trip when previously I would get a code in less than 100 miles.
John, Due to Canadian travel restrictions I can not access my R but if if you want to discuss this further you can contact me at
gundylake@... can guess the rest
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I'll 3D scan it when I take it out. On Fri, May 21, 2021 at 2:04 PM Jonathan Mackenzie via <jonathanmackenzie= [email protected]> wrote:
I found a diagram:?
but no dimensions unfortunately.
A high temp filament like ABS might work.
On Friday, May 21, 2021, 9:47:55 AM PDT, John H. <jheggest@...> wrote:
Thanks, everyone for the replies! I think the 2000 part (#021 129 101D) is different from the 2001 pcv. See pictures below.?
@Jonathan? would be great to get a 3D print, but I wonder if they would be able to print it with material?that is heat resistant enough??
@gundylake thanks for the response. Are you talking about this using something like this installed vertically?
I'm thinking maybe I'll try to disassemble the existing part and replace the existing diaphragm?with a harvested diaphragm.?
On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 8:12 PM Gundylake via <gundylake=[email protected]> wrote:
> John, Last fall I discovered I had the same problem on my 2001 Rialta. I was about to leave on a 500 mile trip so I made a quick modification by removing the VW PVC valve from the assembly and fabricated a replacement.
> I was very easy. I replaced the VW PVC with a standard BALL TYPE PVC and used 5/8 heater hose, (2) 90 degree abs fittings and hose clamps.?I just cut the hoses and fittings? to fit.
> Keep in mind that the VW PVC is vacuum operated so PLUG THE HOSE and the replacement PVC is gravity/pressure operated so the PVC MUST BE VERTICAL(valve closed to the bottom).?
> For those negative geniuses out there that are about to say that this is a bad idea because the crankcase pressure will not be correct. The slight variation will be insignificant.
> Sorry I did not take pictures as I was in a big hurry and when I had it all fitted I left on my trip. Absolutely no codes in a 500 mile trip when previously I would get a code in less than 100 miles.
> John, Due to Canadian travel restrictions I can not access my R but if if you want to discuss this further you can contact me at
> gundylake@... can guess the rest
>
>
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Yes the Napa PVC valve is essentially what I used. The one I used had 5/8" ends to match my heater hose that I used to connect everything.
I have attached a very crude sketch of how I hooked it up.
Looking at the Jetta PVC valve that you posted it does not appear to have a vacuum port. So does it have a ball or a diaphram/spring valve? If it has a diaphram/spring type valve and it does not rely on gravity to close the valve so you could just install it directly into the side of the valve cover and connect it to #12 of Jonathon's diagram?and plug the vacuum hose.?
It never occurred to me to use a diaphram/spring PVC valve when I was doing it. I think it would have been easier to use a valve with a spring.
My understanding of the PVC valve is that the valve portion is there to prevent a fire in the crankcase in the event of a backfire.
Do fuel injected engines backfire like the carbureted engines did?
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I couldn't figure out how to disassemble the existing PCV in a way that would make it usable again, so I decided to go with . My thinking is that it's probably pretty close to the 2000 Eurovan calibration since it's for a 2.8L VR6. Only thing that worries me a bit is that it does not use a vacuum?hose whereas the existing valve does.?
@gundylake Thanks for the helpful sketch. To your question, I believe?that the valve ordered is spring operated. The existing valve does not have a spring. I think the way it works is that the vacuum?line keep the rubber diaphragm?sucked back in place and until?the engine pressure is great enough to overcome the vacuum. Have you had any issues so far with your solution?
Will let you know how it goes.?
Yes the Napa PVC valve is essentially what I used. The one I used had 5/8" ends to match my heater hose that I used to connect everything.
I have attached a very crude sketch of how I hooked it up.
Looking at the Jetta PVC valve that you posted it does not appear to have a vacuum port. So does it have a ball or a diaphram/spring valve? If it has a diaphram/spring type valve and it does not rely on gravity to close the valve so you could just install it directly into the side of the valve cover and connect it to #12 of Jonathon's diagram?and plug the vacuum hose.?
It never occurred to me to use a diaphram/spring PVC valve when I was doing it. I think it would have been easier to use a valve with a spring.
My understanding of the PVC valve is that the valve portion is there to prevent a fire in the crankcase in the event of a backfire.
Do fuel injected engines backfire like the carbureted engines did?
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John,
I have only put 600 or 700 miles on my R since replacing the PCV and not getting any codes since so any cheering would be premature. However before replacing it I chased phantom codes for about 3 years.
But, I don't think I ever went more than 150 miles before a code would pop up again (most of the time less than 50 miles). I should state that 500+ miles were across the Rocky Mountains, Vancouver to Calgary and the performance of the Rialta far exceeded my wildest hopes in the mountains.?
I did some checking after your previous post and the PCV you chose was the one that I thought would be worth a try so I am hoping for the best.
As far as the vacuum hose, I just terminated it. If I remember correctly the hose ran to a tee and I replaced the tee with a straight through connector. Thus removing the tee and hose.
When I did mine I did it on the premise of "this should work" so being in a extreme rush I did not document my modification thinking I would do it later... if it worked.
Well 7 months later we are still in Covid lock down here and my R is still 500 miles away.
So would you please document your mod with pictures and post them.
Good Luck
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Thanks. At the moment 700 miles without a code would be significant progress. I'll post pics when I get the part and do the install later this week.?
Another alternative I found:?
^^This one is adjustable, but as you mentioned earlier, the difference between these calibrations probably won't make a huge difference.?
John,
I have only put 600 or 700 miles on my R since replacing the PCV and not getting any codes since so any cheering would be premature. However before replacing it I chased phantom codes for about 3 years.
But, I don't think I ever went more than 150 miles before a code would pop up again (most of the time less than 50 miles). I should state that 500+ miles were across the Rocky Mountains, Vancouver to Calgary and the performance of the Rialta far exceeded my wildest hopes in the mountains.?
I did some checking after your previous post and the PCV you chose was the one that I thought would be worth a try so I am hoping for the best.
As far as the vacuum hose, I just terminated it. If I remember correctly the hose ran to a tee and I replaced the tee with a straight through connector. Thus removing the tee and hose.
When I did mine I did it on the premise of "this should work" so being in a extreme rush I did not document my modification thinking I would do it later... if it worked.
Well 7 months later we are still in Covid lock down here and my R is still 500 miles away.
So would you please document your mod with pictures and post them.
Good Luck
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Hi all,?
Reporting back on my fix. I started out trying?a PCV from a 2.8L VR6 Passat and couldn't get it to fit the space.?
So I tried Gundylake's approach using for a 2.8L V6 Camaro. Took it for two 20 minute drives and no issues so far. Seems to have solved my recurring P0400 code.?
Will provide updates if anything changes.?
-John?
Thanks. At the moment 700 miles without a code would be significant progress. I'll post pics when I get the part and do the install later this week.?
Another alternative I found:?
^^This one is adjustable, but as you mentioned earlier, the difference between these calibrations probably won't make a huge difference.?
John,
I have only put 600 or 700 miles on my R since replacing the PCV and not getting any codes since so any cheering would be premature. However before replacing it I chased phantom codes for about 3 years.
But, I don't think I ever went more than 150 miles before a code would pop up again (most of the time less than 50 miles). I should state that 500+ miles were across the Rocky Mountains, Vancouver to Calgary and the performance of the Rialta far exceeded my wildest hopes in the mountains.?
I did some checking after your previous post and the PCV you chose was the one that I thought would be worth a try so I am hoping for the best.
As far as the vacuum hose, I just terminated it. If I remember correctly the hose ran to a tee and I replaced the tee with a straight through connector. Thus removing the tee and hose.
When I did mine I did it on the premise of "this should work" so being in a extreme rush I did not document my modification thinking I would do it later... if it worked.
Well 7 months later we are still in Covid lock down here and my R is still 500 miles away.
So would you please document your mod with pictures and post them.
Good Luck
--
--
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I've been meaning to do this mode with a PCV valve off some other car for a while since I don't like all the oil coming into the intake and making a mess. However, I'm not sure our 2000 eurovans (probably '97 and '99 also) have "Positive" Crankcase Ventilation. They seem to just have Crankcase Ventilation. In my understanding, The P in PCV means you're pulling on the crankcase with vacuum, but in the vacuum diagram sticker on the radiator crossbar, it labels a "Crankcase Ventilation Valve," and The 19mm hose goes into the intake *before* the throttle body. This means it doesn't see much engine vacuum. Most cars' PCV systems suck on the crankcase with vacuum from behind the throttle. and they have a return breather hose as well, which routes clean air from the intake or the air filter housing back to the crankcase. I'm 90% sure the AES engines in the 97-2000 Eurovans don't have any vacuum lines sucking directly on the crankcase (unless you count the vacuum line going the the Crankcase Vent Valve (CVV). On my engine, this CVV doesn't hold vacuum, and therefore sucks either from the intake or from the crankcase. I'm actually also chasing a slight "hunting" idle, where the engine RPM fluctuate between 800 and 950 on about a 1-2 second frequency/period (jumps up from~750 to 950 for a quarter second before settling back to 750-800 and then repeating in 1-2 seconds. One of my suspects is the vacuum leak created by the mangled CVV diaphragm, which the ECU is trying to compensate for.?
?
I'm therefore not sure about installing a PCV, since the AES engines aren't designed for it. I think the reason there are such big hoses (3/4" compared to most cars' 3/8" or 1/2" as the biggest) is because the flow of crankcase vapors is slow as there isn't really much suction (maybe more at wide open throttle?). I'm glad previous posters have had success with toyota or camaro PCV valves, but I'm wondering what their crankcase pressures are like. I'm considering an oil catchcan to fix my intake oiling issue. I might disconnect and plug the vacuum line on the CVV to test this theory, but input appreciated.
?
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