After sheltering in place for much of the COVID epidemic, decided to go get the 2000 Eurovan smog checked today. While driving there, it started running very rough and the Check Engine Light started blinking. I drove home and pulled these codes:
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
Details: - 2000 Eurovan Camper with 108K miles - before today, the van had not been driven substantially since November - it is humid and raining lightly today, and in the past I've had similar misfires after I had washed the engine compartment. - But the engine is dry (there were no puddles on the ground). - the gasoline in the van is probably 6 months (?) old, at about 1/2 tank - Coil Pack and spark plug wires were replaced 5000 miles ago at VW dealer (presumably, using OEM parts)
Any advice where to start?
|
Could be dirty fuel injectors! Might try a can od whatever solvent Autozone/etc. sells and see if that helps. Old gas can be a real problem!
Sam
02 EVC
|
Thanks, Sam,
- Dirty Injectors / bad fuel: definitely possible, and running a can of injector cleaner through would be a cheap test.
Other details:
- I went over my service records, and although the spark plug wires and coils are new as of 5k miles ago, the spark plugs themselves are 25K miles old. This doesn't sound that bad, except 25k miles ago was nearly 10 years ago (I really don't drive this van much.)
- I let the van idle in the driveway for about 20 minutes - very gassy smelling exhaust. Or do injectors fail in a way that can release too much fuel into the cylinder?
- I kept clearing the codes and the same three came back repeatedly (P0300, P0302, P0306). Does this suggest it's a Spark problem rather than an Injector problem?
- after about 20 minutes, the misfires stopped happening, and the codes did not come back.
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Show quoted text
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:32 AM, sam letzring <sletz@...> wrote:
Could be dirty fuel injectors! Might try a can od whatever solvent Autozone/etc. sells and see if that helps. Old gas can be a real problem!
Sam
02 EVC
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:13 AM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
After sheltering in place for much of the COVID epidemic, decided to go get the 2000 Eurovan smog checked today. While driving there, it started running very rough and the Check Engine Light started blinking. I drove home and pulled these codes:
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
Details: - 2000 Eurovan Camper with 108K miles - before today, the van had not been driven substantially since November - it is humid and raining lightly today, and in the past I've had similar misfires after I had washed the engine compartment. - But the engine is dry (there were no puddles on the ground). - the gasoline in the van is probably 6 months (?) old, at about 1/2 tank - Coil Pack and spark plug wires were replaced 5000 miles ago at VW dealer (presumably, using OEM parts)
Any advice where to start?
|
Could have been moisture in the high voltage part of the ignition system?
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On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:57 AM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
Thanks, Sam,
- Dirty Injectors / bad fuel: definitely possible, and running a can of injector cleaner through would be a cheap test.
Other details:
- I went over my service records, and although the spark plug wires and coils are new as of 5k miles ago, the spark plugs themselves are 25K miles old. This doesn't sound that bad, except 25k miles ago was nearly 10 years ago (I really don't drive this van much.)
- I let the van idle in the driveway for about 20 minutes - very gassy smelling exhaust. Or do injectors fail in a way that can release too much fuel into the cylinder?
- I kept clearing the codes and the same three came back repeatedly (P0300, P0302, P0306). Does this suggest it's a Spark problem rather than an Injector problem?
- after about 20 minutes, the misfires stopped happening, and the codes did not come back.
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:32 AM, sam letzring <sletz@...> wrote:
Could be dirty fuel injectors! Might try a can od whatever solvent Autozone/etc. sells and see if that helps. Old gas can be a real problem!
Sam
02 EVC
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:13 AM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
After sheltering in place for much of the COVID epidemic, decided to go get the 2000 Eurovan smog checked today. While driving there, it started running very rough and the Check Engine Light started blinking. I drove home and pulled these codes:
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
Details: - 2000 Eurovan Camper with 108K miles - before today, the van had not been driven substantially since November - it is humid and raining lightly today, and in the past I've had similar misfires after I had washed the engine compartment. - But the engine is dry (there were no puddles on the ground). - the gasoline in the van is probably 6 months (?) old, at about 1/2 tank - Coil Pack and spark plug wires were replaced 5000 miles ago at VW dealer (presumably, using OEM parts)
Any advice where to start?
|
Hello, Michael,
A misfire means the cylinder isn't contributing its share of engine load.?In your case you have multiple misfires - cylinders 2 and 6 (same bank on coil pack): 1. Spark plug issue(s) -- gap, arcing because of?carbon tracking on spark plug porcelain?(look for black "vein") 2. Spark plug wires -- resistance, boot-tube has fault or not seated properly (boot that covers connector on wire to coil pack) 3. Faulty ignition coil --?coil pack may have a small crack on its shell ("it is humid and raining lightly today, and in the past I've had similar misfires after I had washed the engine compartment."). I don't know which coil-pair fires at near the same time. If cyl 2 and cyl 6 are "paired", then I'd guess the coil pack. But you have to test to verify.
Why was coil pack replaced? P.S. I hesitate to mention cam timing because only two misfiring cylinders
|
Hello, Michael,
I re-read your post and noticed you said "Check Engine Light started blinking".
That's a hard misfire that can damage your cat. If the engine light blinks again, pull over and shut the van off.
I'd suspect the coil pack is failing, especially because cyl 2 and cyl6 are on the same coil pack bank.
Also, the drive cycle for your vehicle determines when (or if) those codes return. It may take multiple driving trips for those codes to be reset.
Get an oscope on it.
|
Clear the codes, restart and recheck codes. Missfire from #2 #6 Cyl Bad plugs, coil packs/wires, injectors, etc. Like all diagnostic you have to eliminate each item
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On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:14 AM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
?After sheltering in place for much of the COVID epidemic, decided to go get the 2000 Eurovan smog checked today. While driving there, it started running very rough and the Check Engine Light started blinking. I drove home and pulled these codes:
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
Details: - 2000 Eurovan Camper with 108K miles - before today, the van had not been driven substantially since November - it is humid and raining lightly today, and in the past I've had similar misfires after I had washed the engine compartment. - But the engine is dry (there were no puddles on the ground). - the gasoline in the van is probably 6 months (?) old, at about 1/2 tank - Coil Pack and spark plug wires were replaced 5000 miles ago at VW dealer (presumably, using OEM parts)
Any advice where to start?
|
I bought my '99 EVC last year, and it has always had the CEL on (occasionally it will flicker, when the weather is very wet and I accelerate on a hill), and I always get several misfire codes (nothing else). Even going back 2 years in the service records it was diagnosed already. I have brought it to 2 different independent, old school VW mechanics, the recommended ones here in town, specialized in Eurovans. Plugs and wires were replaced, coil pack was checked out for malfunction, and Sea Foam injector cleaner was added to to fuel tank. I even purchased 6 new fuel injectors online to have them replaced, but the 2nd mechanic did not see the need for replacing the old ones, it's a big job and he didn't feel there were any symptoms of them being bad. None of these 2 mechanics could find anything wrong with the fuel injection and ignition. They both told me not to worry.?
So I'm out of options, I guess I could spend $2000 replacing injectors and coil, but I'm not sure that will solve the issue, and it probably won't make my van drive any better. So I settled on the CEL being always on.
So I'd recommend adding Seal Foam to the tank to clean the injectors, and your mechanic might have a way to check out the coil pack for malfunction. Otherwise, if the van drives fine without hiccups (a sign of bad injectors) it's probably nothing.
|
Thanks to all for your help & ideas:
Here's my plan of attack:
1. Measure the resistances of the fuel injectors. This looks fairly easy to do, and since replacing the injectors looks really hard, I'd like to avoid that job if possible. 2. Replace the spark plugs. They are 10 years old, and replacing them may give some diagnostic info, if the plugs are black, wet etc. 3. Replace the spark plug wires: Mine are black, but says only the Red ones are OEM, so I wonder if mine are off-brand? 4. Replace the coil pack. Big C says that misfires on #2 and #6 suggest pack problems (since these are on the same bank). Also, since today was humid. 5. Do something about my old tank of gas - if I can get the van running, I may add some injector cleaner and try to drive until the tank is as empty as possible before refilling.
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Show quoted text
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:57 AM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
Thanks, Sam,
- Dirty Injectors / bad fuel: definitely possible, and running a can of injector cleaner through would be a cheap test.
Other details:
- I went over my service records, and although the spark plug wires and coils are new as of 5k miles ago, the spark plugs themselves are 25K miles old. This doesn't sound that bad, except 25k miles ago was nearly 10 years ago (I really don't drive this van much.)
- I let the van idle in the driveway for about 20 minutes - very gassy smelling exhaust. Or do injectors fail in a way that can release too much fuel into the cylinder?
- I kept clearing the codes and the same three came back repeatedly (P0300, P0302, P0306). Does this suggest it's a Spark problem rather than an Injector problem?
- after about 20 minutes, the misfires stopped happening, and the codes did not come back.
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:32 AM, sam letzring <sletz@...> wrote:
Could be dirty fuel injectors! Might try a can od whatever solvent Autozone/etc. sells and see if that helps. Old gas can be a real problem!
Sam
02 EVC
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:13 AM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
After sheltering in place for much of the COVID epidemic, decided to go get the 2000 Eurovan smog checked today. While driving there, it started running very rough and the Check Engine Light started blinking. I drove home and pulled these codes:
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
Details: - 2000 Eurovan Camper with 108K miles - before today, the van had not been driven substantially since November - it is humid and raining lightly today, and in the past I've had similar misfires after I had washed the engine compartment. - But the engine is dry (there were no puddles on the ground). - the gasoline in the van is probably 6 months (?) old, at about 1/2 tank - Coil Pack and spark plug wires were replaced 5000 miles ago at VW dealer (presumably, using OEM parts)
Any advice where to start?
|
Hey post@...,
There are a few reports going back years on this mailing list claiming that a bad serpentine belt can cause these issues due to static electricity. Here's one I found from 2003:
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Show quoted text
On Dec 14, 2013, at 9:10 PM, illinirocketscientist <websailn2@...> wrote: This is a long shot, but you'll find other occurrences documented in the archives: The serpentine belt is treated with antistatic material. As it wears it can generate enough static electricity to interfere with some of the vehicle's sensors. Think of a Van De Graaff generator making your hair stand up at the science museum. My search of the archives indicated this is more common with an aftermarket belt than a VW one.
I spent over a year chasing CEL issues, mostly random misfire indications. Then I stumbled on the belt/static issue mentioned in the archives. Changed the belt - no problems for 4 years.
The belt was visibly bad, though - lots of loose threads. Your fault codes seem like there's a bad connector or ground somewhere. Or perhaps they induced the faults while working on the harness. Maybe clear them and drive for awhile and see if they come back. Does the van drive ok, without hesitation?
regards Duane 2000 EVC On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:32 AM, post@... wrote:
I bought my '99 EVC last year, and it has always had the CEL on (occasionally it will flicker, when the weather is very wet and I accelerate on a hill), and I always get several misfire codes (nothing else). Even going back 2 years in the service records it was diagnosed already. I have brought it to 2 different independent, old school VW mechanics, the recommended ones here in town, specialized in Eurovans. Plugs and wires were replaced, coil pack was checked out for malfunction, and Sea Foam injector cleaner was added to to fuel tank. I even purchased 6 new fuel injectors online to have them replaced, but the 2nd mechanic did not see the need for replacing the old ones, it's a big job and he didn't feel there were any symptoms of them being bad. None of these 2 mechanics could find anything wrong with the fuel injection and ignition. They both told me not to worry.
So I'm out of options, I guess I could spend $2000 replacing injectors and coil, but I'm not sure that will solve the issue, and it probably won't make my van drive any better. So I settled on the CEL being always on.
So I'd recommend adding Seal Foam to the tank to clean the injectors, and your mechanic might have a way to check out the coil pack for malfunction. Otherwise, if the van drives fine without hiccups (a
|
The serpentine belt turned out to be my problem with this, but I had slightly different error codes. My codes didn't cancel after a while. I got mis-fire codes on all cylinders and a code indicating multiple rapid mis-fires on random cylinders or something like that. Turns out when I had my idler arm froze and was replaced, the wrong belt was installed.
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Michael Diehr Sent: Monday, March 15, 2021 2:47 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] 2000 Eurovan with P0300, P0302, P0306 Hey post@..., There are a few reports going back years on this mailing list claiming that a bad serpentine belt can cause these issues due to static electricity. Here's one I found from 2003: On Dec 14, 2013, at 9:10 PM, illinirocketscientist <websailn2@...> wrote: This is a long shot, but you'll find other occurrences documented in the archives: The serpentine belt is treated with antistatic material. As it wears it can generate enough static electricity to interfere with some of the vehicle's sensors. Think of a Van De Graaff generator making your hair stand up at the science museum. My search of the archives indicated this is more common with an aftermarket belt than a VW one. I spent over a year chasing CEL issues, mostly random misfire indications.
Then I stumbled on the belt/static issue mentioned in the archives. Changed the belt - no problems for 4 years. The belt was visibly bad, though - lots of loose threads. Your fault
codes seem like there's a bad connector or ground somewhere. Or perhaps they induced the faults while working on the harness. Maybe clear them and drive for awhile and see if they come back. Does the van drive ok, without hesitation? regards Duane 2000 EVC
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:32 AM, post@... wrote:
I bought my '99 EVC last year, and it has always had the CEL on (occasionally it will flicker, when the weather is very wet and I accelerate on a hill), and I always get several misfire codes (nothing else). Even going back 2 years in the service records it was diagnosed already. I have brought it to 2 different independent, old school VW mechanics, the recommended ones here in town, specialized in Eurovans. Plugs and wires were replaced, coil pack was checked out for malfunction, and Sea Foam injector cleaner was added to to fuel tank. I even purchased 6 new fuel injectors online to have them replaced, but the 2nd mechanic did not see the need for replacing the old ones, it's a big job and he didn't feel there were any symptoms of them being bad. None of these 2 mechanics could find anything wrong with the fuel injection and ignition. They both told me not to worry. So I'm out of options, I guess I could spend $2000 replacing injectors and
coil, but I'm not sure that will solve the issue, and it probably won't make my van drive any better. So I settled on the CEL being always on. So I'd recommend adding Seal Foam to the tank to clean the injectors, and
your mechanic might have a way to check out the coil pack for malfunction. Otherwise, if the van drives fine without hiccups (a
|
Some parts do not last as long as they should ? if fuel injector resistance is off it will trip a code.
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On Mar 15, 2021, at 4:43 PM, Michael D<md03@...> wrote:
?Thanks to all for your help & ideas:
Here's my plan of attack:
1. Measure the resistances of the fuel injectors. This looks fairly easy to do, and since replacing the injectors looks really hard, I'd like to avoid that job if possible. 2. Replace the spark plugs. They are 10 years old, and replacing them may give some diagnostic info, if the plugs are black, wet etc. 3. Replace the spark plug wires: Mine are black, but says only the Red ones are OEM, so I wonder if mine are off-brand? 4. Replace the coil pack. Big C says that misfires on #2 and #6 suggest pack problems (since these are on the same bank). Also, since today was humid. 5. Do something about my old tank of gas - if I can get the van running, I may add some injector cleaner and try to drive until the tank is as empty as possible before refilling.
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:57 AM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
Thanks, Sam,
- Dirty Injectors / bad fuel: definitely possible, and running a can of injector cleaner through would be a cheap test.
Other details:
- I went over my service records, and although the spark plug wires and coils are new as of 5k miles ago, the spark plugs themselves are 25K miles old. This doesn't sound that bad, except 25k miles ago was nearly 10 years ago (I really don't drive this van much.)
- I let the van idle in the driveway for about 20 minutes - very gassy smelling exhaust. Or do injectors fail in a way that can release too much fuel into the cylinder?
- I kept clearing the codes and the same three came back repeatedly (P0300, P0302, P0306). Does this suggest it's a Spark problem rather than an Injector problem?
- after about 20 minutes, the misfires stopped happening, and the codes did not come back.
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:32 AM, sam letzring <sletz@...> wrote: Could be dirty fuel injectors! Might try a can od whatever solvent Autozone/etc. sells and see if that helps. Old gas can be a real problem!
Sam
02 EVC
On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:13 AM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
After sheltering in place for much of the COVID epidemic, decided to go get the 2000 Eurovan smog checked today. While driving there, it started running very rough and the Check Engine Light started blinking. I drove home and pulled these codes:
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
Details: - 2000 Eurovan Camper with 108K miles - before today, the van had not been driven substantially since November - it is humid and raining lightly today, and in the past I've had similar misfires after I had washed the engine compartment. - But the engine is dry (there were no puddles on the ground). - the gasoline in the van is probably 6 months (?) old, at about 1/2 tank - Coil Pack and spark plug wires were replaced 5000 miles ago at VW dealer (presumably, using OEM parts)
Any advice where to start?
|
You had me at 6mo old gas.? If it was ethanol, as most is these days, a little water in there could cause it to separate out.? Siphon out some and take a look.? Add some ethanol-free premium and good luck!
Kent
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On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 6:11 PM Kozmo < kozmob@...> wrote: The serpentine belt turned out to be my problem with this, but I had
slightly different error codes. My codes didn't cancel after a while. I got
mis-fire codes on all cylinders and a code indicating multiple rapid
mis-fires on random cylinders or something like that. Turns out when I had
my idler arm froze and was replaced, the wrong belt was installed.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Michael
Diehr
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2021 2:47 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] 2000 Eurovan with P0300, P0302, P0306
Hey post@...,
There are a few reports going back years on this mailing list claiming that
a bad serpentine belt can cause these issues due to static electricity.
Here's one I found from 2003:
> On Dec 14, 2013, at 9:10 PM, illinirocketscientist
<websailn2@...> wrote:
> This is a long shot, but you'll find other occurrences documented in the
archives:? The serpentine belt is treated with antistatic material.? As it
wears it can generate enough static electricity to interfere with some of
the vehicle's sensors. Think of a Van De Graaff generator making your hair
stand up at the science museum. My search of the archives indicated this is
more common with an aftermarket belt than a VW one.
>
> I spent over a year chasing CEL issues, mostly random misfire indications.
Then I stumbled on the belt/static issue mentioned in the archives.? Changed
the belt - no problems for 4 years.?
>
> The belt was visibly bad, though - lots of loose threads.? Your fault
codes seem like there's a bad connector or ground somewhere.? Or perhaps
they induced the faults while working on the harness.? Maybe clear them and
drive for awhile and see if they come back.? Does the van drive ok, without
hesitation?
>
> regards
> Duane
> 2000 EVC
> On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:32 AM, post@... wrote:
>
> I bought my '99 EVC last year, and it has always had the CEL on
(occasionally it will flicker, when the weather is very wet and I accelerate
on a hill), and I always get several misfire codes (nothing else). Even
going back 2 years in the service records it was diagnosed already. I have
brought it to 2 different independent, old school VW mechanics, the
recommended ones here in town, specialized in Eurovans. Plugs and wires were
replaced, coil pack was checked out for malfunction, and Sea Foam injector
cleaner was added to to fuel tank. I even purchased 6 new fuel injectors
online to have them replaced, but the 2nd mechanic did not see the need for
replacing the old ones, it's a big job and he didn't feel there were any
symptoms of them being bad. None of these 2 mechanics could find anything
wrong with the fuel injection and ignition. They both told me not to worry.
>
> So I'm out of options, I guess I could spend $2000 replacing injectors and
coil, but I'm not sure that will solve the issue, and it probably won't make
my van drive any better. So I settled on the CEL being always on.
>
> So I'd recommend adding Seal Foam to the tank to clean the injectors, and
your mechanic might have a way to check out the coil pack for malfunction.
Otherwise, if the van drives fine without hiccups (a
|
My 02 threw those same codes found it was a bad MAF. A few bottles HEET run through the system might help.
Spencer
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-----Original Message-----
From: tdibiker <kent.cranford@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Mar 15, 2021 7:31 pm
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] 2000 Eurovan with P0300, P0302, P0306
You had me at 6mo old gas.? If it was ethanol, as most is these days, a little water in there could cause it to separate out.? Siphon out some and take a look.? Add some ethanol-free premium and good luck!
Kent
On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 6:11 PM Kozmo < kozmob@...> wrote:
The serpentine belt turned out to be my problem with this, but I had
slightly different error codes. My codes didn't cancel after a while. I got
mis-fire codes on all cylinders and a code indicating multiple rapid
mis-fires on random cylinders or something like that. Turns out when I had
my idler arm froze and was replaced, the wrong belt was installed.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Michael
Diehr
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2021 2:47 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] 2000 Eurovan with P0300, P0302, P0306
Hey post@...,
There are a few reports going back years on this mailing list claiming that
a bad serpentine belt can cause these issues due to static electricity.
Here's one I found from 2003:
> On Dec 14, 2013, at 9:10 PM, illinirocketscientist
<websailn2@...> wrote:
> This is a long shot, but you'll find other occurrences documented in the
archives:? The serpentine belt is treated with antistatic material.? As it
wears it can generate enough static electricity to interfere with some of
the vehicle's sensors. Think of a Van De Graaff generator making your hair
stand up at the science museum. My search of the archives indicated this is
more common with an aftermarket belt than a VW one.
>
> I spent over a year chasing CEL issues, mostly random misfire indications.
Then I stumbled on the belt/static issue mentioned in the archives.? Changed
the belt - no problems for 4 years.?
>
> The belt was visibly bad, though - lots of loose threads.? Your fault
codes seem like there's a bad connector or ground somewhere.? Or perhaps
they induced the faults while working on the harness.? Maybe clear them and
drive for awhile and see if they come back.? Does the van drive ok, without
hesitation?
>
> regards
> Duane
> 2000 EVC
> On Mar 15, 2021, at 11:32 AM, post@... wrote:
>
> I bought my '99 EVC last year, and it has always had the CEL on
(occasionally it will flicker, when the weather is very wet and I accelerate
on a hill), and I always get several misfire codes (nothing else). Even
going back 2 years in the service records it was diagnosed already. I have
brought it to 2 different independent, old school VW mechanics, the
recommended ones here in town, specialized in Eurovans. Plugs and wires were
replaced, coil pack was checked out for malfunction, and Sea Foam injector
cleaner was added to to fuel tank. I even purchased 6 new fuel injectors
online to have them replaced, but the 2nd mechanic did not see the need for
replacing the old ones, it's a big job and he didn't feel there were any
symptoms of them being bad. None of these 2 mechanics could find anything
wrong with the fuel injection and ignition. They both told me not to worry.
>
> So I'm out of options, I guess I could spend $2000 replacing injectors and
coil, but I'm not sure that will solve the issue, and it probably won't make
my van drive any better. So I settled on the CEL being always on.
>
> So I'd recommend adding Seal Foam to the tank to clean the injectors, and
your mechanic might have a way to check out the coil pack for malfunction.
Otherwise, if the van drives fine without hiccups (a
|
Update: I measured the resistance and all 6 injectors were right at 14.8 Ohms, which seems good.
This doesn't prove the injectors aren't clogged or fouled, but does point more towards an ignition problem, especially since the misfires are always on #2 and #6.
The air is drier today, so I'll try clearing the codes and running the van a bit and see if the problem comes back.
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Show quoted text
On Mar 15, 2021, at 2:43 PM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
Thanks to all for your help & ideas:
Here's my plan of attack:
1. Measure the resistances of the fuel injectors. This looks fairly easy to do, and since replacing the injectors looks really hard, I'd like to avoid that job if possible. 2. Replace the spark plugs. They are 10 years old, and replacing them may give some diagnostic info, if the plugs are black, wet etc. 3. Replace the spark plug wires: Mine are black, but says only the Red ones are OEM, so I wonder if mine are off-brand? 4. Replace the coil pack. Big C says that misfires on #2 and #6 suggest pack problems (since these are on the same bank). Also, since today was humid. 5. Do something about my old tank of gas - if I can get the van running, I may add some injector cleaner and try to drive until the tank is as empty as possible before refilling.
|
Hello, Michael,
My replies about the issue were speculative -- obd2 code can lead you down funny rabbit holes.?
You're correct about the injector ohm test re clogged or fouled. But that test doesn't account for shorted injectors, leaky injectors, leaky o-rings (which can cause misfire at load which is what you described in your original post) or mechanical issues inside the injectors. So to eliminate injectors entirely you'd need to "flow" them and look for rate/time and then drips after injectors shut off. Then use an oscilloscope to watch for the pintle "hump" in the injector's waveform -- when the injector is energized a magnetic field is created which pulls up the pintle to let the gas discharge.?Absent those tests, the injectors can't officially be ruled out as a catalyst for the misfire codes you received.
That said, I'd examine?all your spark plugs, especially cylinder 2 and 6 plugs! Look at electrode gaps. Look for carbon tracking on the porcelain which is an indication of arcing in the spark plug boot. Examine those boots for tears. Always test new spark plug wires for resistance. Should all be fairly the same. Just keep in mind resistance is measured in ohms per foot. It's possible you have a couple of bad ones. Look for carbon tracking inside the spark plug connector that connects to the spark plug.?The issue could be just that simple.
You certainly shouldn't have to replace those spark plug wires this soon. Have you checked for mice issues?
If spark plug gaps are nubs you'd have to ask why -- 5,000 miles isn't much to ruin plug electrodes unless something else were going on e.g. a harsh lean (typically) fuel condition. And for that kind of diagnosis you'd need to know and understand your fuel trims.?
Examine the coil pack for any signs of cracks, chips, arcing. If you really want to test the coil, you're going to need a multimeter (or oscope) to diagnose whether the issue is with the coil itself or the inputs to the coil. Simple to do if you have the tools and know where to hook up and what to look for -- safely. Not so easy if you're a diy'er with few tools. YouTube certainly could help you with other tests you can do. Just use caution around the high voltage and fuel.
The vehicle workshop manual would be super helpful for you. You might also consider a monthly subscription to prodemand diy (I think it's called Mitchell1 for consumers). I have no affiliation with software or manuals. They're my suggestions based on my experience.?
Last tip: Use what you can see, touch, smell or hear to validate what's working and what's not in the engine compartment with engine on and off, or even key on, engine off.
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Hey hey out there Your over blowing it, l don¡¯t know what you want to prove ? Just get two new plugs and two good wires and try them, ?
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On Mar 16, 2021, at 3:04 PM, Big C via groups.io <k_kodiak1@...> wrote:
?Hello, Michael,
My replies about the issue were speculative -- obd2 code can lead you down funny rabbit holes.?
You're correct about the injector ohm test re clogged or fouled. But that test doesn't account for shorted injectors, leaky injectors, leaky o-rings (which can cause misfire at load which is what you described in your original post) or mechanical issues inside the injectors. So to eliminate injectors entirely you'd need to "flow" them and look for rate/time and then drips after injectors shut off. Then use an oscilloscope to watch for the pintle "hump" in the injector's waveform -- when the injector is energized a magnetic field is created which pulls up the pintle to let the gas discharge.?Absent those tests, the injectors can't officially be ruled out as a catalyst for the misfire codes you received.
That said, I'd examine?all your spark plugs, especially cylinder 2 and 6 plugs! Look at electrode gaps. Look for carbon tracking on the porcelain which is an indication of arcing in the spark plug boot. Examine those boots for tears. Always test new spark plug wires for resistance. Should all be fairly the same. Just keep in mind resistance is measured in ohms per foot. It's possible you have a couple of bad ones. Look for carbon tracking inside the spark plug connector that connects to the spark plug.?The issue could be just that simple.
You certainly shouldn't have to replace those spark plug wires this soon. Have you checked for mice issues?
If spark plug gaps are nubs you'd have to ask why -- 5,000 miles isn't much to ruin plug electrodes unless something else were going on e.g. a harsh lean (typically) fuel condition. And for that kind of diagnosis you'd need to know and understand your fuel trims.?
Examine the coil pack for any signs of cracks, chips, arcing. If you really want to test the coil, you're going to need a multimeter (or oscope) to diagnose whether the issue is with the coil itself or the inputs to the coil. Simple to do if you have the tools and know where to hook up and what to look for -- safely. Not so easy if you're a diy'er with few tools. YouTube certainly could help you with other tests you can do. Just use caution around the high voltage and fuel.
The vehicle workshop manual would be super helpful for you. You might also consider a monthly subscription to prodemand diy (I think it's called Mitchell1 for consumers). I have no affiliation with software or manuals. They're my suggestions based on my experience.?
Last tip: Use what you can see, touch, smell or hear to validate what's working and what's not in the engine compartment with engine on and off, or even key on, engine off.
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You're right -- that approach works, too. :-)
My approach is not to buy stuff I don't know I need.
That's why I suggest testing/validating first.
And it's rare a single bread crumb leads someone out of the woods.
So the extra stuff provides?a path for further understanding and troubleshooting -- or handing off to a pro. :-)
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There he go again........
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On Mar 16, 2021, at 5:54 PM, Big C via groups.io <k_kodiak1@...> wrote:
?You're right -- that approach works, too. :-)
My approach is not to buy stuff I don't know I need.
That's why I suggest testing/validating first.
And it's rare a single bread crumb leads someone out of the woods.
So the extra stuff provides?a path for further understanding and troubleshooting -- or handing off to a pro. :-)
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Mike,
You don't report a history of failure, because probably when you parked the EV there was no failure.? Please confirm this. The P0300 to me is a random misfire code, so that the ECU reports it and then tries to identify it to the cylinder.? IMO, you have to test drive a lot more.? Clear codes to see if the 3 and 6 cylinder codes reappear with regularity.? You're on the right track.? Your mileage does not indicate a mechanical failure, but that is possible.? You can use the fact that the motor is running to figure this out.
v/r,
Mike
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