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Low Oil Pressure

rabbit16v_77 #104798 I recently asked about a low oil pressure problem with my 93 EV. It would start and the lifters would clack until they were pumped up, then after about 15 minutes of driving (sometimes less if it were warm out) it would loose oil pressure and the warning light and beeper would start. Once you stopped driving it and it cooled off, the cycle would start all over again. I had decided that it couldn't be a plugged oil pump pick up tube as it would have less pressure with the oil cold and more as the oil warmed up. I didn't suspect the sensors as it truly had low oil pressure if the lifters would loose their prime. I didn't suspect the pump as it would have issues even when the oil was colder. What I did was pulled the oil pan and replaced the mains and rod bearings. It wasn't the funnest job in the world but I now have constant oil pressure and no warning lights or beepers. It looked as though the previous owner had overheated the motor and one of the oiler bearings had actually come apart blocking the oil hole. I also did not use "Eurovan" main bearings as they want to charge you around $50 per bearing. That would be $300 for just the main bearings. I found that the part numbers were the same for the older Audi 5 cylinder motors and the whole set cost me about $75. Anyway, I am just really glad and a little proud that I was able to fix our little van. My wife is really glad as she can drive farther than 5 miles at a time before the warning buzzer and light goes off. Dave
Stuart MacMillan #104838 Yes, that is a big job! I've done rod bearings and rings that way in the past. Congratulations for even attempting it, you have bought yourself some time. How did you do the mains? You must have been able to slide the block half of the bearing shell in with the crank in there. How did the journals look? Was there much scoring? Also, did you check if the rod bolts are reusable, and not the stretch type (I don't know this engine)? You might want to start a savings program for the ultimate rebuild that is probably about 50k down the road. That's about all you can expect from a bearing replacement on a used crank, depending on the condition of the crank journals. Use a high viscosity oil too, maybe 20w-50. If the pressure starts to drop again, even try straight 40wt. oil. Again, congratulations, and good luck! Stuart, BTDT _____ From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf Of rabbit16v_77 Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:57 PM To: ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure I recently asked about a low oil pressure problem with my 93 EV. It would start and the lifters would clack until they were pumped up, then after about 15 minutes of driving (sometimes less if it were warm out) it would loose oil pressure and the warning light and beeper would start. Once you stopped driving it and it cooled off, the cycle would start all over again. I had decided that it couldn't be a plugged oil pump pick up tube as it would have less pressure with the oil cold and more as the oil warmed up. I didn't suspect the sensors as it truly had low oil pressure if the lifters would loose their prime. I didn't suspect the pump as it would have issues even when the oil was colder. What I did was pulled the oil pan and replaced the mains and rod bearings. It wasn't the funnest job in the world but I now have constant oil pressure and no warning lights or beepers. It looked as though the previous owner had overheated the motor and one of the oiler bearings had actually come apart blocking the oil hole. I also did not use "Eurovan" main bearings as they want to charge you around $50 per bearing. That would be $300 for just the main bearings. I found that the part numbers were the same for the older Audi 5 cylinder motors and the whole set cost me about $75. Anyway, I am just really glad and a little proud that I was able to fix our little van. My wife is really glad as she can drive farther than 5 miles at a time before the warning buzzer and light goes off. Dave
David Ewing #104840 My wife drives the van probably 10 to 20 miles a day and we live in the NW so it's very cool here. I don't believe I will need to do much more to it in a long time as it doesn't smoke and the crank wasn't scored at all. The little bit of aluminum that was stuck on the crank I carefully cleaned off using a long strip of 320 grit sand paper. The journals were baby smooth upon reassembly. I did the mains by sliding the top half out with a combination of pushing slightly on the side without the notch with a hard plastic screw driver and rotating the crank. Apparently there is a tool to push the top caps out by installing in into the oiling hole but I didn't use that. Once the bearing half was sticking out the other side slightly I could grab a hold of it with either a mini pry bar or a brake adjust tool on the notch. The 4th, 5th, and 6th bearings came out easy as they were the really bad ones. I only had to crank the motor around. I actually made a tool from wood (oak) to install the bearings as I didn't want to scrape on anything with metal. I also made sure to wipe away any aluminum dust left behind after the shell was pushed into it's spot. The tough part was getting to the cap bolts on number six as I had to actually chisel away some of the aluminum on the rear main cover (the aluminum plat that holds the rear main) being careful not to have the little pieces of aluminum fly into the motor somewhere. Apparently, these motors were meant to be rebuilt outside of the vehicle with the rear main cover off (go figure) and there was no clearance for a socket to fit on the head of the cap bolts. There was still more than enough area on the rear main cover for the oil pan gasket to seal. I have a diesel 4 cylinder on my engine stand now and they have the same issue. Other than that, it's easy from there (although there are some stingy oil pan bolts and you have to swing one of the power steering hoses out of the way which I did without leaking any P/S fluid). I did have to clean the pick up tube as there were some small bearing flakes in it which I'm sure was causing reduced pressure as well. As far as the rod bolts were concerned, I did reuse them. I know they were stretch bolts but I didn't have a choice at the time as the van had to be back up and running ASAP. I have reused stretch bolts in the past but I don't reuse them twice and only on my own stuff. BUT, when possible, I buy new bolts (head and rod) and always when I work on someone else's vehicle. All in all it was a pretty straight forward job. I would have no problem recommending other people with the same problem to do the same. I will tell you all one HUGE tip, though. THE FLYWHEEL HAS NOTCHES IN IT!! You don't have to pull the transmission to get to the two hidden bolts behind the flywheel (as the flywheel is some what bowl shaped). I didn't pull the trans but I was ready to until a friend reminded me that the flywheel should have notches. I can't tell you how grateful I was that I called this particular friend and I wasn't even asking about the bolts! I'm just glad that it worked out the way it did. I only paid $1600 for the van and it's one of the rare standard vans which have no power anything along with a manual transmission. I much prefer that as I have 4 cars and don't need to be constantly fixing on the EV. Right now I am focusing on my 1980 2 door diesel Dasher with the Brittax ragtop. It's a fun/cute little car with great potential but I got it pretty beat on. Luckily the motor had great compression so I didn't have to go down that road, only injectors, glow plugs, and a lot of adjusting. I'm finding that working on Dashers is actually easier than working on Rabbits. Dave toggle quoted message Show quoted text -----Original Message----- From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf Of Stuart MacMillan Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 11:07 AM To: ev_update@...; 'rabbit16v_77' Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure Yes, that is a big job! I've done rod bearings and rings that way in the past. Congratulations for even attempting it, you have bought yourself some time. How did you do the mains? You must have been able to slide the block half of the bearing shell in with the crank in there. How did the journals look? Was there much scoring? Also, did you check if the rod bolts are reusable, and not the stretch type (I don't know this engine)? You might want to start a savings program for the ultimate rebuild that is probably about 50k down the road. That's about all you can expect from a bearing replacement on a used crank, depending on the condition of the crank journals. Use a high viscosity oil too, maybe 20w-50. If the pressure starts to drop again, even try straight 40wt. oil. Again, congratulations, and good luck! Stuart, BTDT _____ From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com [mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On Behalf Of rabbit16v_77 Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:57 PM To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com Subject: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure I recently asked about a low oil pressure problem with my 93 EV. It would start and the lifters would clack until they were pumped up, then after about 15 minutes of driving (sometimes less if it were warm out) it would loose oil pressure and the warning light and beeper would start. Once you stopped driving it and it cooled off, the cycle would start all over again. I had decided that it couldn't be a plugged oil pump pick up tube as it would have less pressure with the oil cold and more as the oil warmed up. I didn't suspect the sensors as it truly had low oil pressure if the lifters would loose their prime. I didn't suspect the pump as it would have issues even when the oil was colder. What I did was pulled the oil pan and replaced the mains and rod bearings. It wasn't the funnest job in the world but I now have constant oil pressure and no warning lights or beepers. It looked as though the previous owner had overheated the motor and one of the oiler bearings had actually come apart blocking the oil hole. I also did not use "Eurovan" main bearings as they want to charge you around $50 per bearing. That would be $300 for just the main bearings. I found that the part numbers were the same for the older Audi 5 cylinder motors and the whole set cost me about $75. Anyway, I am just really glad and a little proud that I was able to fix our little van. My wife is really glad as she can drive farther than 5 miles at a time before the warning buzzer and light goes off. Dave E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10110e <> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10110e
Stuart MacMillan #104850 Sounds like you did a nice job David! Most folks on the list probably have no idea what we are talking about! Stuart Seattle P.S.: Are you going to the Greenwood Car Show Saturday? It will be a great day to see some great cars! _____ From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf Of David Ewing Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 12:50 PM To: ev_update@... Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure My wife drives the van probably 10 to 20 miles a day and we live in the NW so it's very cool here. I don't believe I will need to do much more to it in a long time as it doesn't smoke and the crank wasn't scored at all. The little bit of aluminum that was stuck on the crank I carefully cleaned off using a long strip of 320 grit sand paper. The journals were baby smooth upon reassembly. I did the mains by sliding the top half out with a combination of pushing slightly on the side without the notch with a hard plastic screw driver and rotating the crank. Apparently there is a tool to push the top caps out by installing in into the oiling hole but I didn't use that. Once the bearing half was sticking out the other side slightly I could grab a hold of it with either a mini pry bar or a brake adjust tool on the notch. The 4th, 5th, and 6th bearings came out easy as they were the really bad ones. I only had to crank the motor around. I actually made a tool from wood (oak) to install the bearings as I didn't want to scrape on anything with metal. I also made sure to wipe away any aluminum dust left behind after the shell was pushed into it's spot. The tough part was getting to the cap bolts on number six as I had to actually chisel away some of the aluminum on the rear main cover (the aluminum plat that holds the rear main) being careful not to have the little pieces of aluminum fly into the motor somewhere. Apparently, these motors were meant to be rebuilt outside of the vehicle with the rear main cover off (go figure) and there was no clearance for a socket to fit on the head of the cap bolts. There was still more than enough area on the rear main cover for the oil pan gasket to seal. I have a diesel 4 cylinder on my engine stand now and they have the same issue. Other than that, it's easy from there (although there are some stingy oil pan bolts and you have to swing one of the power steering hoses out of the way which I did without leaking any P/S fluid). I did have to clean the pick up tube as there were some small bearing flakes in it which I'm sure was causing reduced pressure as well. As far as the rod bolts were concerned, I did reuse them. I know they were stretch bolts but I didn't have a choice at the time as the van had to be back up and running ASAP. I have reused stretch bolts in the past but I don't reuse them twice and only on my own stuff. BUT, when possible, I buy new bolts (head and rod) and always when I work on someone else's vehicle. All in all it was a pretty straight forward job. I would have no problem recommending other people with the same problem to do the same. I will tell you all one HUGE tip, though. THE FLYWHEEL HAS NOTCHES IN IT!! You don't have to pull the transmission to get to the two hidden bolts behind the flywheel (as the flywheel is some what bowl shaped). I didn't pull the trans but I was ready to until a friend reminded me that the flywheel should have notches. I can't tell you how grateful I was that I called this particular friend and I wasn't even asking about the bolts! I'm just glad that it worked out the way it did. I only paid $1600 for the van and it's one of the rare standard vans which have no power anything along with a manual transmission. I much prefer that as I have 4 cars and don't need to be constantly fixing on the EV. Right now I am focusing on my 1980 2 door diesel Dasher with the Brittax ragtop. It's a fun/cute little car with great potential but I got it pretty beat on. Luckily the motor had great compression so I didn't have to go down that road, only injectors, glow plugs, and a lot of adjusting. I'm finding that working on Dashers is actually easier than working on Rabbits. Dave toggle quoted message Show quoted text -----Original Message----- From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com [mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On Behalf Of Stuart MacMillan Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 11:07 AM To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com; 'rabbit16v_77' Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure Yes, that is a big job! I've done rod bearings and rings that way in the past. Congratulations for even attempting it, you have bought yourself some time. How did you do the mains? You must have been able to slide the block half of the bearing shell in with the crank in there. How did the journals look? Was there much scoring? Also, did you check if the rod bolts are reusable, and not the stretch type (I don't know this engine)? You might want to start a savings program for the ultimate rebuild that is probably about 50k down the road. That's about all you can expect from a bearing replacement on a used crank, depending on the condition of the crank journals. Use a high viscosity oil too, maybe 20w-50. If the pressure starts to drop again, even try straight 40wt. oil. Again, congratulations, and good luck! Stuart, BTDT _____ From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com [mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On Behalf Of rabbit16v_77 Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:57 PM To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com Subject: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure I recently asked about a low oil pressure problem with my 93 EV. It would start and the lifters would clack until they were pumped up, then after about 15 minutes of driving (sometimes less if it were warm out) it would loose oil pressure and the warning light and beeper would start. Once you stopped driving it and it cooled off, the cycle would start all over again. I had decided that it couldn't be a plugged oil pump pick up tube as it would have less pressure with the oil cold and more as the oil warmed up. I didn't suspect the sensors as it truly had low oil pressure if the lifters would loose their prime. I didn't suspect the pump as it would have issues even when the oil was colder. What I did was pulled the oil pan and replaced the mains and rod bearings. It wasn't the funnest job in the world but I now have constant oil pressure and no warning lights or beepers. It looked as though the previous owner had overheated the motor and one of the oiler bearings had actually come apart blocking the oil hole. I also did not use "Eurovan" main bearings as they want to charge you around $50 per bearing. That would be $300 for just the main bearings. I found that the part numbers were the same for the older Audi 5 cylinder motors and the whole set cost me about $75. Anyway, I am just really glad and a little proud that I was able to fix our little van. My wife is really glad as she can drive farther than 5 miles at a time before the warning buzzer and light goes off. Dave E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10110e . <> com/spyware-doctor/ <. <> com/en/spyware-doctor/> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10110e . <> com/en/spyware-doctor/
David Ewing #104853 Probably not, unfortunately, I have to work. I have a small shop I spend most of my time at (mostly working on my own stuff but we do flip a car once in a while to make some extra money), then I deliver Pizza four days a week. Not really a bad gig but I am also going in to interview and test for DOC in a couple weeks. I've been a CO before and need to have a decent normal job that's consistent. Right now I am running around (delivering Pizza) in an 80 Diesel 2 dr Dasher with the Brittax Ragtop! It's a cool little car but it needs a little bit of work as well. I just got it back on the road last week so I am working through the bugs but I am still getting about 45+ mpg. My little 80 VW pickup is my pride and joy. It has a built 2.0L 8v (2.0L UUA code shipped special from S. Africa, JH head ported, polished, Techtonics 280 cam, HD springs, Techtonics adjustable cam sprocket, Corrado intake, euro exhaust manifold ported to match the Techtonics racing downpipe (non cat) and the rest of the system is Techtonics as well with a Borla muffler, 16v pressure place and lightened flywheel, Schrick aluminum baffled and finned oil pan with windage tray all running the original non lambda CIS about 160hp), Bilstein sport suspension with lowering springs and polyurethane everywhere (lower control arms, steering rack, etc). New stock tierods, bearings, hubs, ball joints, etc with BMW 320 aluminum wheels and 205/50-13 tires. The brakes are upgraded to the vented in front and discs in back with stainless steel brake lines. 75 Scirocco grill with relayed Bosch 4 round headlights at 480 watts on high beam, Personal leather wheel, aluminum shift knob, stereo, racing seats, etc. etc. etc. Unfortunately it takes about $25 a night to drive delivery so enter the diesel dasher (that I got for free, mind you). I also have a 77 Rabbit 2dr for free that I plan to turn into a drag car, or maybe a crazy street machine (2.0L 16v turbo, stand alone fuel system with nitrous or VR6 24v or VR6 OBD2 turbo). I have owned SOOOOO many cars you wouldn't believe. I had a 75 Scirocco with 40k ORIGINAL miles. When I fixed it up and shined it up it looked BETTER than new. It sold on Ebay for $7400 and I bought it for $300. ction=view < action=view&current=DSCF0709.jpg> &current=DSCF0709.jpg I found an 80 Rabbit 4 door auto with 25K original miles. It sold for $4500. ion=view < tion=view&current=DSCF0051.jpg> &current=DSCF0051.jpg I've basically had every early watercooled VW ever made and they were NICE versions, not just hunks of junk. 80 Scirocco Ragtop ew < iew&current=LSofcarF.jpg> &current=LSofcarF.jpg 80 Scirocco S w/Ragtop n=view < on=view&current=DSCF0578.jpg> &current=DSCF0578.jpg 81 TD VW Pickup ?action=view < /?action=view&current=RTside.jpg> &current=RTside.jpg 82 Diesel Pickup 110k original ion=view < tion=view&current=1981RedDslTrk0003.jpg> &current=1981RedDslTrk0003.jpg 87 Scirocco 16v ion=view < tion=view&current=DSCF0016.jpg> &current=DSCF0016.jpg 84 Jetta GL 86K original view < =view&current=DSCF0011.jpg> &current=DSCF0011.jpg 81 Diesel Pickup (new paint/new motor) tion=view < ction=view&current=DSCN0291.jpg> &current=DSCN0291.jpg Rare 80 Rabbit with factory carb /?action=view < b/?action=view&current=DSCF0021.jpg> &current=DSCF0021.jpg 80 Convertible british green =view < n=view&current=DSCF0534.jpg> &current=DSCF0534.jpg And my pride and joy, but unfortunately totaled by a BMW, my 77 Rabbit 2.0L 16v (hotrodded motor, close ratio trans, big brakes, CIS-E, with LOTS of extras n=view < on=view&current=77Rabbit6.jpg> &current=77Rabbit6.jpg This is my latest project, a 2.0L 16v with motronic and passenger side fuel system with 4K trans into a minty 84 Jetta GLI. I did it for a friend of mine. All the bugs aren't quite ironed out yet but he is driving it all over the world with no problems. iew < view&current=DSCF0491.jpg> &current=DSCF0491.jpg Anyway, I've been doing this for quite some time. I have a HUGE collection of parts and cars and manuals. Right now I have a 75 Mercedes Benz 300D with new motor, trans, suspension, tires, complete wiring harness, etc. etc. for sale for $2500, an 84 Jetta Diesel in REALLY nice shape (needs motor rebuilt), 83 2dr Rabbit diesel (head gasket and heater core), 91 Jetta Diesel (electrical issues, runs and drives, black), 85 BMW 524 TD (ULTRA rare, needs cam and oil pump and we have a 84 Continental Turbo Diesel for parts as they used the same motor/trans/rearend). I have a line to buy the following: 89 Jetta GTX (Canadian GLI) Helios Blue, Trophy edition with 59K original miles, a parts rabbit with a 1.5L diesel, and other things I can't think of right now. Anyway, don't know why I thought you needed to know all this but it sure is fun once in a while looking back. Those are only a few of the cars I've owned, many MANY parted cars as well! Dave toggle quoted message Show quoted text -----Original Message----- From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf Of Stuart MacMillan Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 7:46 PM To: ev_update@... Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure Sounds like you did a nice job David! Most folks on the list probably have no idea what we are talking about! Stuart Seattle P.S.: Are you going to the Greenwood Car Show Saturday? It will be a great day to see some great cars! <> dcarshow.com/ _____ From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com [mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On Behalf Of David Ewing Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 12:50 PM To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure My wife drives the van probably 10 to 20 miles a day and we live in the NW so it's very cool here. I don't believe I will need to do much more to it in a long time as it doesn't smoke and the crank wasn't scored at all. The little bit of aluminum that was stuck on the crank I carefully cleaned off using a long strip of 320 grit sand paper. The journals were baby smooth upon reassembly. I did the mains by sliding the top half out with a combination of pushing slightly on the side without the notch with a hard plastic screw driver and rotating the crank. Apparently there is a tool to push the top caps out by installing in into the oiling hole but I didn't use that. Once the bearing half was sticking out the other side slightly I could grab a hold of it with either a mini pry bar or a brake adjust tool on the notch. The 4th, 5th, and 6th bearings came out easy as they were the really bad ones. I only had to crank the motor around. I actually made a tool from wood (oak) to install the bearings as I didn't want to scrape on anything with metal. I also made sure to wipe away any aluminum dust left behind after the shell was pushed into it's spot. The tough part was getting to the cap bolts on number six as I had to actually chisel away some of the aluminum on the rear main cover (the aluminum plat that holds the rear main) being careful not to have the little pieces of aluminum fly into the motor somewhere. Apparently, these motors were meant to be rebuilt outside of the vehicle with the rear main cover off (go figure) and there was no clearance for a socket to fit on the head of the cap bolts. There was still more than enough area on the rear main cover for the oil pan gasket to seal. I have a diesel 4 cylinder on my engine stand now and they have the same issue. Other than that, it's easy from there (although there are some stingy oil pan bolts and you have to swing one of the power steering hoses out of the way which I did without leaking any P/S fluid). I did have to clean the pick up tube as there were some small bearing flakes in it which I'm sure was causing reduced pressure as well. As far as the rod bolts were concerned, I did reuse them. I know they were stretch bolts but I didn't have a choice at the time as the van had to be back up and running ASAP. I have reused stretch bolts in the past but I don't reuse them twice and only on my own stuff. BUT, when possible, I buy new bolts (head and rod) and always when I work on someone else's vehicle. All in all it was a pretty straight forward job. I would have no problem recommending other people with the same problem to do the same. I will tell you all one HUGE tip, though. THE FLYWHEEL HAS NOTCHES IN IT!! You don't have to pull the transmission to get to the two hidden bolts behind the flywheel (as the flywheel is some what bowl shaped). I didn't pull the trans but I was ready to until a friend reminded me that the flywheel should have notches. I can't tell you how grateful I was that I called this particular friend and I wasn't even asking about the bolts! I'm just glad that it worked out the way it did. I only paid $1600 for the van and it's one of the rare standard vans which have no power anything along with a manual transmission. I much prefer that as I have 4 cars and don't need to be constantly fixing on the EV. Right now I am focusing on my 1980 2 door diesel Dasher with the Brittax ragtop. It's a fun/cute little car with great potential but I got it pretty beat on. Luckily the motor had great compression so I didn't have to go down that road, only injectors, glow plugs, and a lot of adjusting. I'm finding that working on Dashers is actually easier than working on Rabbits. Dave -----Original Message----- From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com [mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On Behalf Of Stuart MacMillan Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 11:07 AM To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com; 'rabbit16v_77' Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure Yes, that is a big job! I've done rod bearings and rings that way in the past. Congratulations for even attempting it, you have bought yourself some time. How did you do the mains? You must have been able to slide the block half of the bearing shell in with the crank in there. How did the journals look? Was there much scoring? Also, did you check if the rod bolts are reusable, and not the stretch type (I don't know this engine)? You might want to start a savings program for the ultimate rebuild that is probably about 50k down the road. That's about all you can expect from a bearing replacement on a used crank, depending on the condition of the crank journals. Use a high viscosity oil too, maybe 20w-50. If the pressure starts to drop again, even try straight 40wt. oil. Again, congratulations, and good luck! Stuart, BTDT _____ From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com [mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On Behalf Of rabbit16v_77 Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:57 PM To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com Subject: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure I recently asked about a low oil pressure problem with my 93 EV. It would start and the lifters would clack until they were pumped up, then after about 15 minutes of driving (sometimes less if it were warm out) it would loose oil pressure and the warning light and beeper would start. Once you stopped driving it and it cooled off, the cycle would start all over again. I had decided that it couldn't be a plugged oil pump pick up tube as it would have less pressure with the oil cold and more as the oil warmed up. I didn't suspect the sensors as it truly had low oil pressure if the lifters would loose their prime. I didn't suspect the pump as it would have issues even when the oil was colder. What I did was pulled the oil pan and replaced the mains and rod bearings. It wasn't the funnest job in the world but I now have constant oil pressure and no warning lights or beepers. It looked as though the previous owner had overheated the motor and one of the oiler bearings had actually come apart blocking the oil hole. I also did not use "Eurovan" main bearings as they want to charge you around $50 per bearing. That would be $300 for just the main bearings. I found that the part numbers were the same for the older Audi 5 cylinder motors and the whole set cost me about $75. Anyway, I am just really glad and a little proud that I was able to fix our little van. My wife is really glad as she can drive farther than 5 miles at a time before the warning buzzer and light goes off. Dave E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10110e . <. <> com/spyware-doctor/> com/spyware-doctor/ <. <. <> com/en/spyware-doctor/> com/en/spyware-doctor/> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10110e . <. <> com/en/spyware-doctor/> com/en/spyware-doctor/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10110e <> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10120e

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