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Check Engine light mystery- the code.
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Jonathan Levin
All.
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Thanks for the advice about AutoZone. I just had the the code read with the CEL on. They hooked up this little handheld device to the plug under the steering wheel and this is what came up: TROUBLESHOOTING P0118 Definition: ECI (engine coolant temp) circuit Explanation: The engine coolant temp signal is used for various systems in the vehicle. Probable causes: 1. Check connecter and wiring 2. Sensor opened or shorted- replace sensor. They were very nice and explained that possibly the thermostat could be in a stuck position. In my case, he said it would be in the open position since there is no overheating of the engine, and it seems to run fine. They also said that there is some little relay thing that may need to be replaced, but they are not sure. We are planning a six hundred mile driving trip in a few weeks and I was thinking that after that when I get an oil and filter, I could then take care of this. Anyone see any problem with doing this? Again, this is an intermitant problem, and I'm guessing that at some point it will go off for a few days and then come on. It does seem odd that filling the tank with new gas seems to temporarly take care of the CEL situation. Your thoughts? Thanks. Jonathan 2001 VW EV MV WK On May 30, 2008, at 10:35 AM, Jonathan Levin wrote:
Well, strange this came up, since I was going to write about this myself about our 2001 EV MV WK. |
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dave_king_ev
They were very nice and explained that possibly the thermostat couldNo, that's insane. The thermostat is mechanical. There is no code related to it. The best and the brightest do not work at AZ. Get your codes read, buy an air freshner to hang from your rearview mirror, and get out of there asap. Oh yeah, rent tools....they have good deals on rental/borrow, too. But don't get troubleshooting advice on electronics from them. You probably need a new engine temp sensor. Which one you need depends on your model/engine/vin. They are inexpensive and fail regularly. First make sure the wiring connector the sensor is seated properly. If the connection is bad you will get a code even if the sensor is OK. --- In ev_update@..., Jonathan Levin <jonathan@...> wrote:
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According to his signature he has a 2001 MVWK. If that is the case he
probably has the 24V 201hp engine and a swap of the recently much discussed sensor (green d shape) will probably do the trick. This little bugger is the culprit of so many things. my 2 cents without engineering degree, without seeing the van and without wiring diagram and without a Bentley. ymmv. Florian --- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...> wrote: toThey were very nice and explained that possibly the thermostat couldNo, that's insane. The thermostat is mechanical. There is no code oddrun fine. They also said that there is some little relay thing that usethat filling the tank with new gas seems to temporarly take care of up,premium. Ussually if I run the tank close to empty and then fill on,the situation would clear up and no more CEL. Even with the CEL thatthe van seems to run just fine. The only thing that I notice is whenimediately after ignition, the engine revs just a bit fast for a interesting,refinerys change there recepie to a summer blend. Also liveis that it would mostly happen if I bought my gas in Indiana. I came onin Chicago, but camp in the spring in central IN. withafter filling up with gas in Indiana, so I ran that down to just now),that tank of gas being at just about empty, and when I started the mentionedvan running fine. I called my VW service dept and they to toldthe gas cap and that if I took the cap off and then back on, it Theirthat I could drive it as long as the light wasn't "blinking". wentcharge for hooking it up to the diagnostics was $140.00 which I ouch. |
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jeffrey frey
This might be a dirty connector problem. VW has always had trouble
with dissimilar metals and faulty grounds, among other faulty connections. As they said, "check connector and wiring," i.e., clean the contacts in the connector, both sides. Whether the temperature sensor is shorted can easily be tested with an ohmmeter. As for an open, that could be tested the same way. Does anyone know the proper resistance range for the sensor? Always check any contacts when up against an electrical problem. Jeffrey On Mon, Jun 2, 2008 at 1:56 PM, Jonathan Levin <jonathan@...> wrote: All. |
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Concur. It is not worth wasting time testing. Just replace the sensor; $20
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at Europarts-sd. If it is not the culprit now, it will soon be. It is a common failure item. Bob W. In a message dated 6/2/2008 3:06:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
fkahlert@... writes: According to his signature he has a 2001 MVWK. If that is the case he probably has the 24V 201hp engine and a swap of the recently much discussed sensor (green d shape) will probably do the trick. This little bugger is the culprit of so many things. ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
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cactuspaws
Trying a second time to post this.
I wanted to post the code that apparently was associated with my first check engine light incident. The repair order says: #17559 Bank 1 mixture adaption Rangel below lean limit P1151 E.O.I May be an oxy sensor OK at this time. That's the closest I get to interpreting the handwriting, anyway. Can anyone comment? Thanks. Karen |
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crazylev_2000
Dave,
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Thanks for that. Any idea where I would find this sensor to wiggle some wires? Do I need to remove the plastic cover from the engine compartment? Since this is intermitant, the VW service place seems to think that I can have it checked the next oil change since he's pretty far away. So it sounds like the engine will at least not blow up until then, hopefully. Jonathan --- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:
They were very nice and explained that possibly the thermostat couldNo, that's insane. The thermostat is mechanical. There is no code |
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dave_king_ev
There are three sensors side by side on a triple gang fitting near the
intake. I wouldn't worry which is which. Just disconnect all three, clean them and their connectors, and reconnect them. Live with if for a while and see if you still get a CEL. Then, if you do, as others have said, don't bother with any further troubleshooting. Just order a new D-shaped green one from europarts and have it installed. --- In ev_update@..., "crazylev_2000" <jonathan@...> wrote: some wires? Do I need to remove the plastic cover from the engine compartment?I can have it checked the next oil change since he's pretty far away. So it sounds like theengine will at least not blow up until then, hopefully.could couldbe in a stuck position.No, that's insane. The thermostat is mechanical. There is no code openbe in a stuck position. In my case, he said it would be in the seems toposition since there is no overheating of the engine, and it thatrun fine. They also said that there is some little relay thing and Imay need to be replaced, but they are not sure. somewas thinking that after that when I get an oil and filter, I could seem oddpoint it will go off for a few days and then come on. It does ofthat filling the tank with new gas seems to temporarly take care thisthe CEL situation. always usemyself about our 2001 EV MV WK. fill up,premium. Ussually if I run the tank close to empty and then CEL on,the situation would clear up and no more CEL. Even with the is thatthe van seems to run just fine. The only thing that I notice guessing whenimediately after ignition, the engine revs just a bit fast for a interesting,refinerys change there recepie to a summer blend. Also I liveis that it would mostly happen if I bought my gas in Indiana. came onin Chicago, but camp in the spring in central IN. withafter filling up with gas in Indiana, so I ran that down to just thethat tank of gas being at just about empty, and when I started thevan, the idle was just awful. It sound and felt like three of idlingsix six cylynders were firing. now),solved but CEL stil on. mentionedvan running fine. I called my VW service dept and they to also toldthe gas cap and that if I took the cap off and then back on, it Theirthat I could drive it as long as the light wasn't "blinking". I wentcharge for hooking it up to the diagnostics was $140.00 which ouch. |
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If you re going to replace that sensor, it is best to go in through the
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bottom. Remove the sound deadening pan, look up at the bottom front of the engine. You will find the thermostat housing (look for large coolant houses). There is the temp sensor and a plug. To replace the sensor, you will need the part, an o-ring, and a clip to hold the snesor in. Relieve the pressure in the coolant system by taking off the cap on the coolant reservoir, then put the cap back on; having the cap on reduces the amount of coolant loss when the sensor is replaced. If you are uncomfortable withe the procedure, consider having a mechanic do it. Bob W. In a message dated 6/3/2008 9:00:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jonathan@... writes: Pardon my ignorance about car stuff, but where and what is the "intake"? I'm pretty handy with a tool or two, but not real knowledgable about stuff under the hood. By intake, is that cluster near where the air filter is on the passenger side of the engine compartment? This sounds like something I can tackle if I know what and where to look for. I looked on Europarts web site and didn't see anything that lookked like a D shaped sensor under their exhaust and emissions section. I did cruise that site and man are parts for this van expensive. Glad this one is only 20 dollarsUS or so. Thanks. Jonathan ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
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crazylev_2000
--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:
Dave, Pardon my ignorance about car stuff, but where and what is the "intake"? I'm pretty handy with a tool or two, but not real knowledgable about stuff under the hood. By intake, is that cluster near where the air filter is on the passenger side of the engine compartment? This sounds like something I can tackle if I know what and where to look for. I looked on Europarts web site and didn't see anything that lookked like a D shaped sensor under their exhaust and emissions section. I did cruise that site and man are parts for this van expensive. Glad this one is only 20 dollarsUS or so. Thanks. Jonathan
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dave_king_ev
The intake is where air flows through the air filter and into the
engine via the intake manifold. I can't find you an online picture since various engine covers block the view. The gang of three sensors is below and to the passenger side of the oil fill cap. The europarts sensor is here: --- In ev_update@..., "crazylev_2000" <jonathan@...> wrote: "intake"? I'm pretty handy with a tool or two, but not real knowledgable about stuff under thehood. passenger side of the engine compartment? This sounds like something I can tackle if I know whatand where to look for.like a D shaped sensor under their exhaust and emissions section. I did cruise thatsite and man are parts for this van expensive. Glad this one is only 20 dollarsUS or so. |
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Here is a link to the green sensor in question. It is found under three
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different areas in our web store, those being.... cooling system, fuel system and engine electrical. Steve Schock EUROPARTS-San Diego The Eurovan parts source Website: europarts-sd.com Phone: 858-451-0020 Secure online ordering at: crazylev_2000 wrote:
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"Totally cold" would work. I did mine after a 20-minute cool down. The key
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is finding out if the engine temp is still causing an increase in coolant pressure. I bled off the coolant system pressure, then re-tightened the reservoir cap, waited a few minutes before removing the cap again, then found I had no pressure build-up as I loosened the cap. The coolant will still be quite warm but tolerable when the old sensor is removed. Bob W. In a message dated 6/4/2008 11:18:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gti_matt@... writes: --- _Sea2river@... (mailto:Sea2river@...) wrote: Relieve the pressure in the coolant system by taking off the cap on thecoolant reservoir, then put the cap back on; having the cap on reduces the amount of coolant loss when the sensor is replaced. Do that when the engine is totally cold though like after sitting overnight. ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
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crazylev_2000
--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:
Dave and Bob, Thanks so much for your advice. I'll poke around under the hood and see if this is something that I can tackle myself. If not, it's off to the service dept. where at least I have an idea of how much part(s) are going to cost and how much labor might be involved. I'll keep you posted. Jonathan
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gti_matt
--- Sea2river@... wrote:
Relieve the pressure in the coolant system by taking off the cap on the coolant reservoir, thenput the cap back on; having the cap on reduces the amount of coolant loss when the sensor is replaced. Do that when the engine is totally cold though like after sitting overnight. |
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gti_matt
--- crazylev_2000 <jonathan@...> wrote:
Thanks so much for your advice. I'll poke around under the hood and see if this isYou can do this yourself easily from underneath. Helps if you have ramps just to get in/out from under the van easier but not necessary if you can squeeze in/out yourself. It's very difficult from the top (I didn't even attempt it) but not bad from the bottom. The worst part is potentially the coolant loss which is just plain messy more than anything else so have a bucket handy just in case. But if you "stage" everything so you can swap the old out and new one in quickly it shouldn't be too bad. Make sure you get the old o-ring out and use a new o-ring. |
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gti_matt
--- Sea2river@... wrote:
"Totally cold" would work. I did mine after a 20-minute cool down. The key is finding out ifthe engine temp is still causing an increase in coolant pressure. I bled off the coolant system pressure, then re-tightened the reservoir cap, waited a few minutes before removing the cap again, then found I had no pressure build-up as I loosened the cap. The coolant will still be quite warm but tolerable when the old sensor is removed. I did mine totally cold but didn't remove the cap to relieve residual pressure. What a mistake, and what a mess, that was! In my head I figured if I left the cap on, if no air goes in, water can't come out (like when you dip a straw in a beverage and hold your finger over the top and you remove the straw and nothing comes out of the straw). That works I guess if there's no leftover pressure but in my case there was pressure since I didn't remove/replace the cap first. |
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