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I have a 93 production year MV Weekender with 84,000 miles and automatic transmission. I have noticed more vibration than I like when stopped in drive, enough to make the images in the rear view mirrors blurry. I experience much less vibration when stopped in reverse. I have not checked the motor mount yet but I would like to soon.

John Coleman
Boulder CO

I understand from a search of the archives that the center engine/trans
mount has been known to go bad and cause vibration problems. But the
Bentley book shows that there was a production change on 8/92 that that
switched the type of mount. Has anyone had any problems with the "new"
style mount?

Donald Gibbons wrote:

I understand from a search of the archives that the center engine/trans
mount has been known to go bad and cause vibration problems. But the
Bentley book shows that there was a production change on 8/92 that that
switched the type of mount. Has anyone had any problems with the "new"
style mount?

Mine was built in 9/92 and yes, my motor mounts were in bad shape when I
replaced them. The rubber in the center one (to which you refer) had
countless cracks and the rubber was very hard. After replacement the EV
feels much better and does not vibrate and shake anymore. If you decide to
change the mounts yourself I can tell you how to do it. I paid $115 for the
large one in the middle and $ 60 for the one on the driver's side. After 88
000 miles that was a good investment.
Check
Both parts are original VW, made in Germany. The boxes must have been on the
shelf since 93 since there was a thick layer of dust on the box and in the
box.

Good luck
Eckhard

In a message dated 02/09/2000 10:13:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mgmccarthy@... writes:

I know transverse engines rock those mounts, but geez you think *something*
could be worked out in 20 years.

I suspect the cause may have something to do with the auto transmission. It
seems to me that most of the owners with mount problems also have A/T.

Bob Williams
93 Weekender with 5-speed and no mount problems yet after 137,000 miles
VIN: WV2MC0700PH104774
Severna Park, MD

I just had the mount replaced on our '95 EVC. It made a world of difference.
After looking at the wear on the old mount I could understand why the
vibration was occurring.

Glad to know VW has come so far in a mere 20 years!!! LOL Didn't mid-70's
Rabbits have the same engine mount problem? (and mid-80's and now mid
90's?)

I know transverse engines rock those mounts, but geez you think *something*
could be worked out in 20 years......




----------

At 10:10 PM 02/09/2000 -0500, Michael wrote:

Glad to know VW has come so far in a mere 20 years!!! LOL Didn't mid-70's
Rabbits have the same engine mount problem? (and mid-80's and now mid
90's?)

Hey, at least this is *German* engineering. I had an Austin 1800 (a big
mini) when I lived in Canada. The dealer took it for a test drive after
service and the engine (front/transverse mount) fell out, literally. Broke
one of the half-shafts, etc., etc. Turns out a previous serviceman had
installed new mounts *backwards* and instead of lasting a whole 15K miles,
they ruptured at about 3K. I tingled for days after thinking about how much
fun ( & $) that would have been on a freeway.
I don't know if there is a joke out there about the Worst Car in the World
(Italian electrics, Lucas fuel pump, American suspension, French salesmen,
etc.) but you can bet there are no (west) German parts in the WCITW.

Now I'm going out to the garage and squirt a little super-glue on the
mounts.....

-- Chuck (99 EVC)
========
Chuck Bragg, Santa Monica Bay Audubon Society

cgbragg@...
fax: 209-671-6396
========

Bob,

The motor mount problem probably exists in both automatic and 5 speed transmissions (unless they have a different mount). It is just more apparent on the automatics because of the slight load the auto tranny imposes on the engine at idle. When the auto tranny is shifted into neutral, the vibration diminishes dramatically. With mine, the vibration is also less in reverse than in drive.

I would like to replace the motor mount just to reduce the vibration but I'm wondering if there are other less apparent adverse affects caused by the deteriorated motor mounts. Anybody know anything about this?

John Coleman
93 EVMV Weekender Auto
Boulder, CO

I am waiting for my bentley to arrive but in the meantime, how difficult is
it to replace the motor mounts. I have a few tools and jacks in my garage.
Is this totally difficult or doable to a shade tree mechanic?

Leif
'93 EV MV

John:

I don't have experience with this from an EV, but I did have
complications arise in another VW. Connections to the exhaust and
emissions system components are often short and tight and can be
strained by excess vibration by the engine. In my case, engine
vibration eventually ripped the wiring loose from the O2 sensor,
requiring replacement of a brand-new sensor, and caused the exhaust
hangers to wear out faster. The hangers were cheap, but the O2 sensor
wasn't. Also, one bad mount might hasten the failure of the others if
they weren't also failing already, and I don't suppose the extra
vibration was too healthy for the catalytic converter either.

Over time, I think the vibrations also adversely affect the mountings
of other components (dash, interior trim, etc.). When I got the mounts
replaced, the improvement was great, but the interior didn't seem as
solid and quiet as it used to be. Not like you could hear a pin drop
while driving an EV (or most other VWs) anyway, but I regretted letting
it go on so long.

Joel Funk
97 EVC (still smooth)
ex 90 Corrado (provided shiatsu massage for a while)

ozcolema-@... wrote:

Bob,

The motor mount problem probably exists in both automatic and 5 speed

transmissions (unless they have a different mount). It is just more
apparent on the automatics because of the slight load the auto tranny
imposes on the engine at idle. When the auto tranny is shifted into
neutral, the vibration diminishes dramatically. With mine, the
vibration is also less in reverse than in drive.

I would like to replace the motor mount just to reduce the vibration

but I'm wondering if there are other less apparent adverse affects
caused by the deteriorated motor mounts. Anybody know anything about
this?

John Coleman
93 EVMV Weekender Auto
Boulder, CO

--On Thursday, February 10, 2000, 9:42 AM -0700 Leif <leif@...>
wrote:

I am waiting for my bentley to arrive but in the meantime, how difficult

is

it to replace the motor mounts. I have a few tools and jacks in my

garage.

Is this totally difficult or doable to a shade tree mechanic?

A few months ago I replaces my transmission and I also did the mounts. The
Bentley was not much help. This is how I did it: (This procedure is for a
9/92 EV with the "new" mount (Bentley H 37-35 picture V37-1119) The
procedure is different if you have a pre 8/92 EV. There you have to measure
an air gap and make the necessary adjustments (Bentley H 37-39
I jacked up the EV on very good (6ton) Snap On stands and lifted it as high
as possible. I used a 6 ton floor jack. My friend is a mechanic and has
lots of neat tools. There are 3 engine/transmission mounts. on the driver's
side right next to / under the battery and one on the opposite side. The one
in the middle is the offending mount because it carries a lot of weight. I
put a floor jack under the transmission to support it. Then I loosened the
bolts on the mount. An extension came in handy. If I remember correctly
there are two bolts on the passenger side and two that you have to access
from the rear. You need good tools because the bolts are very tight. I had
to use my legs and a long handle to get them off. One is really hard to
reach. You need a (I think 15mm) open wrench which can not be too long. But
then you don't have the leverage you need and it is not easy to get the bolt
off. I used a hammer and brute strength and it came off. There is not much
room to move or turn a wrench. Once all the bolts are out you might be able
to get the old mount out. Since I was doing the tranny at the same time I
disconnected the other mount on the driver's side and the exhaust. This move
enabled me to "swing" the engine forward (supported by a jack, of course).
That gave me enough room to remove the old mount and insert the new one.
(This is only possible if the drive shafts are removed--which I had to do
anyways). I used Locktite and then torqued the bolts as much as I could.
I would recommend you put the car on ramps, or jack it up (safely)
and take a good look at the mount. According to Bentley there are 4 bolts
on the mount and the big long one that goes through the mount. I think if
you unbolt the mount on the driver's side (if necessary) you might be able
to push the engine/ transmission assembly forward enough to get the mount
out. It sure makes a difference to have new mounts. I don't know if it is
necessary to replace any other ones. I did but the other two mounts seemed
in perfect condition. Next I will get my injectors cleaned and I hope that
the old EV will be as vibration-free as it used to be, a long time ago.
Unfortunately the mount is very expensive (I paid $115) and you
wonder why it costs so much.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have any problems. Good luck . . .
Eckhard