it just seems stupid, as here in ottawa i see many diesel cargo vans in use
every day.
i'm surprized they sold so many despite no advertising or promotion. the
price was right, back in 97 around 23,000cdn. i'm sure some of the older
ones are ready for replacement now and a new tdi would be the ticket.
don

--- In ev_update@..., "Donald Hector" <dhec@c...> wrote:

i've always wondered why the cdn market never brought in the tdi's
to replace the strong selling diesel cargo vans that were

discontinued after 1997.


My sense is that we Canadians had much better VW service when there
was an independant VW of Canada headquartered in Toronto.

Sometime around 1995 - 97, VW of Canada became a division of VW of
America. When you phone now, despite the bilingual menu, you are
reaching VW of "Canada" in Michigan.

Decisions that have affected me directly are 1)the pulling of the
Audi cabriolet from Canada after only 4 months (resulting in me
having an "orphan" model to trade when I bought a new car -no VW or
Audi this time!- 2 months ago), 2)the dropping of the camper in a
country that formerly had more camper models (and much better camper
dealers) than the USA & 3)the refusal to provide the very
simple "letter of conformity" if I want to sell a VW to an American.
They now "will not participate in cross-border sales". (You can only
get the letter if you are moving down there with the vehicle
yourself; I guess this is to protect American VW dealers from the
occasional private Canadian sale; large volume recurring dealer sales
could be prevented without such draconian measures).

Anyway, outside of the mainstream vehicles, Canada has become a
wasteland for those who appreciate VWs creative offerings.

BTW, I rented a diesel (non TDI) camper in Europe last September &
was very impressed with the power & acceleration, not to mention the
gas savings .

Frank in Toronto

past: 75 rabbit; 81 rabbit convertible,90 Westfalia, 91 Westfalia,91
Cabriolet,94 Audi Cabriolet,
Now: 95 EVC

Sue,
Also a few photographs wouldn't do any harm!
John

"Michael G. McCarthy" wrote:

No doubt the leak would be slow to appear on your driveway, what with
the big belly pan and its thick sound insulation absorbing most leaks
before anything can hit the ground.

Any "25-point inspection" would have to include removing that pan.
Even just changing the oil means removing the pan. Even if the
mechanic didn't both to actually check the transmission the fact that
the foam in the pan was filling up with tranny oil would be hard to
miss! (In other words, you don't have to check all "25 points" if you
want to cut corners -- just check the pan and if it's clean and dry
then obviously nothing above it is leaking, at least not grossly
leaking. But if the pan shows evidence of leaks above and the
mechanic doesn't bother to track down the leaks, that's pretty
incompetant.)

If I were you, I'd take the car to an independent garage right away
and have someone assess how much tranny oil has soaked into the belly
pan insulation. If there is a quart or more absorbed there, it will
be obvious, and it will be powerful evidence that the "inspection" was
bogus, maybe even fraudulent.

I don't have the Consumer Relations number handy, but the vw.com
website is sure to have it.


Mike



----------
From: Suemccowan@...
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] clutch and transmission advice
Date: Mon, Jun 5, 2000, 6:54 PM



The drip has been going down into the foam on some pad
underneath the van so we would have never seen the leak on
the driveway.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
[Image]

[Image]

[Image]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Jon,
I think you will find that the consensus of this group is that the Michellin
Agilis tire is hands down the best tire for this vehicle. It is also
originial equipment on "99's and above. Much quieter and longer live than
the Goodyear.
John

Jon wrote:

Sue,
They know the capacity. They could fill it, subtract the amount of fluid they
put in and the remainder would be how much was left in the tranny. Is this a
VW dealer?
John

Suemccowan@... wrote:

Hi Sue,
Just one man's opinion of course, but I always thought that manual transmissions
were pretty much binary! Either they work or they do not. Also, while you can
detect a burned odor with ATF, I think it would take a pretty good nose to sniff
out a burned smell in hypoid 90. I suppose if the fluid were completely gone it
would be possible to have gaulded a bushing, but I still think you would have
heard it.
John

Suemccowan@... wrote:

I use 215/65-15 on my '93 EV MV. They are Arizonian Silver Edition from
Discount Tires ($55.-). Some members of the list fitted successfully
215/70-15. The 215/70-15 will give you a lower RPM for the same speed as
the 215/65-15. Also the load rating is only one number (98) below the
required one (99). If yoy don't drive always full loaded up than this is
ok


Thomas in Central Florida
ex '77 Camper
ex '85 Camper
'93 EV MV 5-speed




Here is what members wrote in the past:


Bruce Curry 93EV WK: I just had occasion to try on a friend's set of
Pirelli Scorpions (205/75/15) which in theory are quite a bit taller than
the vaunted Agilis. His are on a 91 westy synchro. They fit my 93 ev
w/out a problem on both front and back w/out rubbing the body during
turns.

These tires recently rated top of the class in several recent consumer
tests for both quietness of ride as well as handling in the wet. They
have 8 belts, are rated for 40 or 50k miles, and I believe are rated for
the weight of most EV onfigurations. They have both an aggressive
"truck" as well as more sedate "passenger" tread pattern option. As I
recall they are a relative bargain at $69 at discount tire.

The 215/65R15C Agilis may prove to be the answer if they can be found. I
will run my Goodyear G64's until I find an equally large or larger tire
(re the Agilis 215/65R15C) to replace them with. No complaints
whatsoever with the G64's other than a bit noisy due to the aggressive
tread pattern.

Some have tried the Continental LS 23C, in 215/70/15. This would
probably be larger than you've currently got.
=========================================================================
=
Bruce Curry <taizo@...> The one I tried was 205/75/15
(possibly last year's model?) and it didn't rub on turns although it
might possibly scuff the front wheelwell over bumps and very rough
surfaces.

From: Humphrey Moynihan <hjmoyni@...>
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Agilis v. Pirelli Scorpion

There are several models of the Pirelli Scorpion tire, only one of
which seems to be available in "LT sizes in load range C" according to
the Pirelli website. The only tire size of interest to this group would
be the smallest Scorpion I in LT215/75R15 if it would fit the EV. It
should be C-rated since it is advertised as such, max air pressure is 50
psi, max load would be 1764 lb per tire, overall diameter is 27.7 in. I
have Continental C-rated 215/70R15 on my '93 EV, and I am not sure if
anything larger would fit. I had corresponded with one person on the
list who seemed to remeber that the 215/75R15 would rub the inner wheel
well at full lock. Any one with 215/75R15 tire experience?
==> Humphrey reported good results with with the Continental 215/70R15
LS23C

For those who are looking for an alternative, and perhaps even a better
choice, here is their website:


The SnowTrac is a killer winter tire, with reinforced sidewalls and a
Load Index of 99/775kg. or 97/730kg. - depending on the size you prefer.
They also make an excellent summer tire, the T-Trac, that is reinforced
with a Load Index of 97/730kg.
=========================================================================
======

From Kid

If I was hauling lumber or poultry, I might risk trying a "standard Load"
205/70 X R15 tire. I saw a Michelin X-series at Price Club/Costco that
had a load rating of 95. The MXL has a load rating of 98 and the agilis
is 100 so 95 is pretty darn close. Undortunately, it did NOT have
reinforced sidewalls. My cargo is always the wife & kids and because of
this, I've decided to stick with the recommended replacement.

I'm not pushing Price Club/COSTCO but the MICHELIN AGILIS-51 is available
from them on special order for ($77.99@ + $7.00 installation). It is
item #264206 in their books and will take I was told, approximately 2
weeks to deliver. It's the best price I've found so far. Better than the
($92.00 + shipping) quoted by Tire Rack. Kit
=========================================================================
====
I would also add that the Michelin is much quieter than the Goodyear G64
tire once you get several thousand miles on them. I also do not know if
you can still get the Goodyear G64 tires. I was able to buy them from
Tire Rack a couple years ago but do not see them listed in the ad
anymore. Ron
=========================================================================
====

Different michelin tires in very ample weight ratings and different sizes
for the EV.
The michelin agilis 51 is not a true all season tire. It is apparently
listed as a "R+W" or Road and Winter tire. Michelin gives this
designation to tires which are summer tires but perform particularly well
on slippery surfaces (according to them). Better than Goodyear G64 in
snow!
The agilis 61 is rated as a mud and snow tire, but the size would be
195/70R15. Larger tires the agilis 81 comes in a 205/70R15, or even a
21570R15. Reinforced with more load capacity then required.
Superior to the michelin mxl's that were original equipment on my '93 ev.
Nokians all season reinforced tire, used for over 40K, a little noisier
than straight highway tires, we prefer the better traction.
=========================================================================
====
Hakapelita 10C in size 195/70R15 they come in a reinforced and 8 ply
truck rating. They are listed under comerical tires

Also consider the Nokian NRW in size 205/65R15RF; described at
.
=========================================================================
====
from: "Sheldon H. Winick" <s.winick@...> C rated
tires
William, The tire of choice for the EVC is definitely the Michelin Agilis
51. However, if you still have a "new" spare and would be interested in
matching it with another Goodyear Cargo, I have an unused Goodyear Cargo
I removed from the spare wheel of our '97 EVC when I replaced the set of
5 with Michelins. The "spare" was never used so its still brand new. If
you want it, you can have it for $20 plus shipping. Reply in Email if
interested. Sheldon '97 EVC
=========================================================================
====
Tire Size Comparison
Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile
Difference
205/65-15 5.2in 12.7in 25.5in 80.1in 791
0.0%
215/65-15 5.5in 13.0in 26.0in 81.7in 776
2.0%
205/70-15 5.6in 13.1in 26.3in 82.6in 767
3.2%
215/70-15 5.9in 13.4in 26.9in 84.4in 751
5.3%
205/75-15 6.1in 13.6in 27.1in 85.2in 744
6.3%
215/75-15 6.3in 13.8in 27.7in 87.0in 728
8.6%

The fact that the EVC didn't come with an inverter from the Winny
Plant has bothered me since I purchased my van!

Before my last trip, which I just returned from, I bought a 300 watt
inverter from Sam's. The one I purchased is very efficient, has low
battery warning and shut-off as well as indicator lights. They have
two different models, one name brand and the other not - both priced
at about 29.99 or 39.99 (I can't remember right now) each! Far less
than I could have purchased it elsewhere!

My new problem was where to put it. In the end, I mounted it behind
the indicator panel and on top of the fridge using velcro tabs.
There is a perfect spot on the back right-hand corner which is away
from the heat of the fridge condensor coils yet close enough so that
I'm not transmitting the power a long distance.

I then extended one outlet (it has two), the indicator lights and the
power switch about 12 inches (I was very careful to solder and heat
shrink all connections as this would not be a good place for a fire
to start), and had a machinist cut the indicator panel to fit them.
It looks like it came from the factory this way, it has plenty of air
flow to dissapate any heat(although it has not gotten hotter than
warm even in 95 deg. MO heat) and I don't have to deal with one more
accessory and where to store it. The only negative is that I'm sure
I've voided the inverter's warranty by modifying the wiring.

I only use it to power a laptop and my cell phone charger (because my
car cord is shot) and have not had any problems even when running my
laptop for several hours with the engine off (although I would like
to add an actual guage to monitor the battery condition as Rich has
done).

Hope this helps!

Randal Reed
2000 EVC



--- In ev_update@..., sukitoby@a... wrote:

It intrigues me that Winnebago went to all the all the trouble to

install the

large and expenseive Magnatek Converter to supply 12 VDC while you

are on

shore power

My question: Has anyone installed an INVERTER so that you have 110

VAC while

traveling and parked. There is plenty room in the battery area.

Suggested watts (300, 500, 1000 ??) Suggested Manufacturers?

Can it be wired to work with the existing 110 V wiring and outlets

already in

the EVC.

Please help - by the way Sharp has just release a miniature

Microwave called

The Half Pint which would be way cool for your EVC and it has a low

wattage

demand.

--- In ev_update@..., spmecham@e... wrote:

Oh, and 2 more things:
2) The light for checking the engine came on last week.
We called the dealer right away. They said the light
"goes off 90% of the time after a day or 2" and said
to call them back after a week if it was still on. It
is. They said often the dianostics don't show a thing
even when the light is on. This doesn't give the warm
fuzzies! (Yes, the obvious stuff like oil and temp are
ok).

- Steve
2000 EVC

My $0.02: what the dealer said is partly true, but misleading and
lazy. A check engine light will go out if the fault does not recur
during the next driving cycle. Some things that cause the light to
go on are not serious. However, this does not necessarily mean that
all is/was well if the light goes out. And, if it comes on and stays
on for any time at all, one or more diagnostic codes get logged into
memory. A responsible dealer would at least suggest that he read and
purge the code(s) in case there might be a real problem, or a minor
situation that could be developing into a bigger problem. After all,
that is why the OBD systems have become a standard component.

With my luck, the bigger problem ($$$) would develop right after my
warranty expires.

Joel Funk
Coughing 97 EVC

I think you got the same thing that I am going to tell you: If there
is not anything wrong with the trans in spite of being a "little" bit
low on oil it should be fine.

As for the mechanic with his finger: The hole is small and it could
be just below his reach and be only a very small amount low anyway.

Also the level of the trans changes as it gets sloshed around while
driving.

Here is a simple thing to try: Have then drain the old oil. Be sure
you are watching and if there is any "chuncks" that drain out its
bad. But if its OK you will be fine.

开云体育

Thanks John, and everyone, for your words of advice. I feel much better
informed when approaching the dealer. This morning I called the dealer to let
them know I had "checked around" and that the general feeling was that if
enough fluid leaked out from a slow leak to do any dammage, then, they should
have caught it during one of ther 25 point inspections that I have done with
every oil change. I told them I didn't think I should pay for any of these
repairs if they were at fault.

The manager called me back to inform me (now that I think that they should
pay) that the transmission would be fine. I pushed him to agree to pay to
have the tranny removed again if this was not the case. He would not, so I
told him to just put everything on hold. Meahwhile I called around, found
somewhere else to do the clutch (at a slightly higher price). Now, after
actually checking the amount of fluid and the condition of it (probably
looked for chunks like Donald suggested) he called me back to say they would
agree to pull the tranny later if I had any problems with the transmission.

The consenses from other mechanics around town is that this shop (yes Jon,
its the VW dealer in town) is great mechanically but the service sales dept
is a bit quick to push extra work. I really like another shop in town. They
are high priced but do great work and seem quite honest, however even they
say the dealer is the optimum place to take this van.

I think I'll get that Bently manual as some suggest. Can I order that from
somewhere, or do I get it at an auto parts store?

My only last question is: Did the clutch burn out because the transmission
ran low on oil, or did the clutch burn out because the original owner rode it
OR did it burn out because it was a substandard part and VW should cover at
least part of it even if not under warrently.

Anyway, I think the saga is coming to an end and I wanted to thank everyone
for their kind advice!

Sue

PS and don't forget to check around the emblem for leaking so you don't have
this problem!

开云体育

We don't have the keyless entry, but our '99 had the same problem with the lock not working correctly, and with the handle 'catching' when trying it while the door was locked. In fact, our lock mechanism broke altogether, and we were unable to unlock the door.

There were two things that resolved the problem. First, the dealer replaced the lock mechanism. Second, the inside panel on the door had one clip that wasn't staying clipped. This was the one at the top left-hand corner, when looking from the inside at the door. When it came unclipped, it caused a lot of friction on the lock mechanism. They replaced all of the clips on the panel, and we haven't had the locking problem since then. The door creaking is still there.

Tim

unsubscribe

I sounds like Steve's fluid might be leaking the same place mine was. They
said it was a small o ring right near a VW emblem. Might be worth a check for
all you manual transmission owners out there.

Sue

In a message dated 06/06/2000 8:38:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Tim.Kirwan@... writes:

We don't have the keyless entry, but our '99 had the same problem with the
lock not working correctly, and with the handle 'catching' when trying it
while the door was locked.

Very interesting. This seems to be a long-standing problem with the EV since
in the first six months of my 93 Weekender's life the sliding door lock would
not release, either by lifting the locking button inside the vehicle or by
using the central locking system. The dealer replaced the lock and I have
not had a recurrence in the subsequent seven years.

Bob Williams
93 Weekender with 5-speed
VIN: WV2MC0700PH104774
Severna Park, MD

开云体育

Another noisy 2000 sliding door here ... the creaking
variety, especially over bumps. It just started a couple
of weeks ago, a few days after the dealer worked on the
door.

The problem with the door was the keyless lock doesn't
lock the sliding door. Now that's happening again!! We
have to lock it by pushing down the button or using the
key (the old fashioned way).

Also, when the sliding door is locked and you pull back
the outside handle to try to open the door (if you are
unaware it is locked or want to check it is locked),
then the handle gets stuck in the back position. We
have to pry it back to the normal position before the
door will unlock either with the key or with the button.

So, back to the dealer!

Oh, and 2 more things:
2) The light for checking the engine came on last week.
We called the dealer right away. They said the light
"goes off 90% of the time after a day or 2" and said
to call them back after a week if it was still on. It
is. They said often the dianostics don't show a thing
even when the light is on. This doesn't give the warm
fuzzies! (Yes, the obvious stuff like oil and temp are
ok).

3) The windshield cracked from the edge up. It was
pretty sudden, and because it came up from the bottom
we didn't see it until it was already over a dollar
bill long. The dealer insists it was a rock, but we
sure can't find any evidence. In a week it grew to
2 ft. long. We're going to have a couple of windshield
shops give an opinion before it goes in - if it is a
defect then we sure don't want to shell out a $250
deductible.

These are with less than 1600 miles on our so otherwise
cool new EVC!

- Steve
2000 EVC

I have two solutions for you.
The first I did and the second I was planning to do.

1. I put the top up and then wrapped two velco ties around the center
hinge point. I used a heavy webbing and wrapped it a couple times and
the velco held it secure. This will keep it from folding.

2. Drill a 3/16" hole through the flanges that over lap the pole and
drill through the pole on each side. You can then insert a pin
(safety or large cotter) through all of the assembly when raised.
This will also stop the poles from folding and is a more secure way
of doing it. You can also attach these with a chain or cord and pop
rivit to the pole and they will always be right there reminding you
to put them in. The small hole should not effect the strength.

Hope this helps. The top will come down fast if a door or windows
are open. I would guess this is the reason Winne used the strut
assisted top on their version.

Lets keep everyone safe.

Let's keep put'n a good word in for each other every day.

Still waiting. Estranged still driving 93 EVMVWK, But not a bad time
of year for the convertable either.

Yegs,






--- In ev_update@..., "Andrew Wallace" <andrewwa@m...> wrote:

I have a '99 MVWeekender - the one with that new, one-piece

Westfalia

pop-top. Hell of a thing to lift. And my kid has just grown into a
climb and swing phase. Kind of scary the thought of her bringing

the

roof down by accident.

Does anyone have thoughts or solutions on:
a) How to really, positively "lock" the roof in the up position.
b) How to make the lifting easier. It is not a task for the weak,
enfeabled, or pregnant.

Thanks
Andrew

To drain the coolant, I'd start with
1. remove the belly pan
2. take the cap off the resevor tank, move the temp control to heat
3. remove the 10mm or 12mm screw in the metal coolant pipe - make
sure you use a pan that can hold at least 3 gal
4. Next remove a hose at a time, always loosen the lower attached
points - cath all of this coolant
5. Remove the thermostat - I replaced mine and saved the old one
6. If you have the optional rear heater, loosen one of the rear
hoses - again catch all of the coolant.
7. Measure the amount of coolant you removed - I pored mine into 1
gal milk jugs - this way you know how much you'll need to put back in.
8. close-up everything, then remove the small plastic breather screw
on the hose going back near the firewall - be careful with it, its
made of plastic but costs like it was made of gold!
9. Add water to the system and run the van till it comes up to
operating temp - don't forget to add the plastic breather cap!
10. let it cool down (20 minutes) - feel hose to see if you can
stand the temp
11. Once cool enough, remove metal plug and a few hoses and
drain "water", then close up everything again.
12. Mix coolant to your mix needs - you need to mix up at least the
amount from step 7, then add to the resevor - don't forget to take
out the plastic breather cap while filling.
13. You may need to drive the van a bit to get the coolant to
settle, remember, you have to put at least the amount you took out.

Good Luck
Jerry


--- In ev_update@..., patkiniry@h... wrote:

I'm a new 93 EV GL owner. I want to flush the coolant out of my van
but
I couldn't find a plug or anything to drain it from. Can anyone

help?