eurovanupdate@groups.io

Sliding Door Curtain Track Rings and Stops - Two questions

drhovis

My 03 MV Weekender curtain fell off its track this weekend.

I discovered the aft plastic track-stop fell/was pulled out of
position and the little curtain hook rings started sliding right out
of aft end of the track.

There are eleven hooks on the curtain.  I recovered 9 little rings and
one plastic track-stop.

First question, how many rings are there supposed to be?

I also noticed the forward end of the door curtain track was missing a
track-stop.  Second question, is the forward end also need a track-
stop.

Thanks for your help.

Re: 3-way fridge

#104765

What is the status of the coach battery, i.e., how old?  Does it take  and 
hold a charge?
 
Bob W.

Show quoted text

In a message dated 6/23/2008 2:01:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
johnstamford@... writes:

The  fridge is not the problem, I don't think. It drains the coach battery 
staying  cool while driving and it appears that the coach battery isn't getting 
enough  amps to maintain its level or keep up with the drain caused by the  
fridge.

****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      ()

Re: moving up from a 1999 Eurovan

#104747

I have a '93 and an '03.
Advantages of '03
201 HP vs 109 HP
Quieter
Better climate control
OBD II diagnostics plus are much better
16" wheels
Similar gas mileage
Recommended service intervals (eg spark plugs and air filter) is 40K
vs 25K (or is it 30K?)
Disc brakes on rear vs drum
ABS standard (opt on 93)
ESP
Air bags standard

Disadvantages of '03
Only available with automatic transmission

I'm sure there are other differences, but that is what comes to mind.
It is a pretty significant upgrade in my opinion.

Show quoted text

On 6/21/08, Dane Walther <dane_s_walther@...> wrote:
I've been considering selling my 1999 EV and getting a newer VR6 Eurovan
(perhaps 2002 or newer).  Seeing as don't know much about the newer VR6
models, are there any specific items/problems I should check when shopping
around?

Thanks,

Dane

-- 
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

Re: OBD II/ VAG COM

#104746

j
hi joe

the diagram that ross-tech isn't exactly like mine. mine matches what the bentley has in their 2000 wiring diagram. there are two ground wires, both of which have a solid ground. then there is the wire with 12v. this one is good too. the other wire is the gray/white that goes to the radio. the question that is puzzling to me (and certainly i don't know much about how the obd works) is where does the info from the computer come from? if there are fault codes stored in the computer, wouldn't there have to be a wire coming from the computer and going to the obd II connector to send that information?

Show quoted text

From: "Joe R" <jromas@...>
Reply-To: ev_update@...
To: <ev_update@...>
Subject: Re: [ev_update] OBD II/ VAG COM
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 12:16:08 -0400

Check for 12 volts and ground on the obi connector. They are shown on the link I gave. Also look for pins pushed out of the connector.

Joe

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: mike shea
  To: ev_update@...
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 10:15 AM
  Subject: Re: [ev_update] OBD II/ VAG COM

  hi all
  thanks for the replies. i do have an aftermarket blaupunkt radio in my car.
  i've had it for a long time though so i was skeptical that this was where
  the problem lied. at any rate, i cut the wire as suggested on the ross-tech
  page. still no difference. no reading at all at the obd II connector.
  any other suggestions?
  peace
  mike

Re: 3-way fridge

forest flanigan

#104745

I would check the outlet behind the fridge to see if your getting power
there.

Forest

Re: EVC Luggage Carrier Mounts

forest flanigan

#104744

Jackson--

How about some pics?

Forest

Re: missig bellypan

#104756

Recycler.  In what part of the country are you?
 
What happened to the old one?
 
Bob W.

Show quoted text

In a message dated 6/23/2008 1:40:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
martinrowley@... writes:

I am  trying to locate a third party or used belly pan for my 2002
EVWK.  

Dealer wants $471. Any ideas?  Marty

****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      ()

Re: reset brake pad warning lamp?

#104753

You could have the sensor wire in the rear pads worn through or a faulty  
connection in the front pads.  Since the pads on all four wheels are  designed to 
wear at the same rate, I suspect it is the rear pads.
Are you sure that the sensor in the rear pads is OK?
 
As the late Gilda Radner wrote, "It's Always Something."
 
Bob W.

Show quoted text

In a message dated 6/23/2008 12:34:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
danielhpastor@... writes:

Just  replaced the front brake pads. warning lamp still on. Looks like
((0)). How  does one reset (turn off) the blasted lamp?
2003 Eurovan  GL
Thanks!

****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      ()

Re: What Ya Think on This Eurovan?

B Feddish

#104743

That's allot of money for a GLS, and with no sunroof at that. The price is
in line with dealer pricing though.  The PLUS side is it really does have
low mileage and since that's a VW dealer you'll get the 2 year warranty.  If
you are that worried about the tranny a 3rd party extended warranty would
probably be pretty cheap for vehicle with that low miles.

 

Thanks,
Bryan

 

  _____  

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of chipcook1975
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 2:46 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] What Ya Think on This Eurovan?

 

Looking for a EV, looking for low miles. Also scared of auto
transmissions breaking (I have only owned VW Manuals so far). 

I am in Greensboro, NC. I saw this in NJ:

<>
.com/preowned/dsp_viewcar.cfm?vin=WV2KB47023H000542

Re: EVC Luggage Carrier Mounts

jack_son_73

#104741

Casey -

I agree about the luggage bar & well on the cab. I
had my 2003 EVC cab cap off again the other day, to
replace some Ham Radio antenna cables I installed
under it. The first time I had it off, & saw that
single sheet-metal screw securing the entire center
area, & the half-riveted brackets under the luggage
rail, I wondered why they used 5/16" bolts. The non-
riveted side of my brackets had been "hot-glued"[?]
to the cab - and one was loose. I considered hot-
gluing it back, to a painted surface??

I installed a 1/4-20 Nut-Sert, or Riv-Nut, where
the sheet-metal screw hole was, & a 2nd one about a
foot behind it, using fender washers & rubber discs
inside the ABS well. I replaced the original 5/16
hdwe. with stainless steel. I wondered what would
happen if the sheet-metal screw had come loose, &
100 MPH wind scooped under the ABS cap. I started
to drill out the rivets, and install 1/4-20 Nut-
Serts under BOTH sides of the brackets. I now plan
to leave the rivets, & drill oversize holes on the
glued sides, & install Nut-Serts under them, with
washers above.

I built up the area inside the ABS luggage well
with 5 parallel Kindorf 2" channels about a foot
long; two under each luggage rail end bracket, &
one slightly longer in the center, with rubber
strips under each.

I covered the channels with a sheet of 1/8"aluminum
with split foam pipe insulation sandwiched between.
Rubber shims raise the aluminum panel to ~1/8"
below rim of the well. U-shaped weather-stripping
was glued around the aluminum plate.

The aluminum plate was added for a ground plane
under my Ham Radio antenna, but also serves to
keep some leaves, snow & water out of the well. For
me, the luggage well was useless. I never did find
a cargo box to fit, & the thought of a duffel-bag
sitting in a pool of water, snow... If I put a bag
up there now, at least it will be higher & drier.

Regards,


Jack_son
===============
--In ev_update@..., "jcaseymoore" <cmoore@..> wrote:

Show quoted text

I removed my front Luggage Carrier on a 2000 EVc to
mount some hold-downs on it. To my surprise the
underlying attachment hardware was badly rusted and
consisted of thin steel brackets each only riveted
on only one side to the EVC roof.  I cleaned up the
rust, coated the brackets with rust stopping solution
and repainted them.

But I wouldn't trust the rack with anything very heavy
or valuable.  This seems to be the rule on my van.
The Winnebago parts are not corrosion resistant, and
in some cases flimsy and not well made.  So see what
I mean go to the Photo  Section under Luggage Carrier
Front EVC

1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L

Joe R

#104740

"I can't find the OBD connector, period."

You have what is called a "2+2" arrangment.
Here's what your looking for on pre 96 VW's that have diagnostics. Including EV's.

Joe R

Re: What Ya Think on This Eurovan?

#104742

The GLS might be nice.  However, if you are concerned about automatic  
transmissions failing, perhaps an EV is not for you.
 
If it were me, I would be looking nearby for a used EV, preferably  something 
that has avoided salted roads. There is a Weekender available in  Charlotte. 
Check message #105180 that reads:
QUOTE
Hi, I'm selling my 2001 EV MV Weekender. I'm in Charlotte NC. Give
me a  call or email me if you would like some info on  it.
Thanks,
Mike
704-575-9875
UNQUOTE
 
Bob W.

Show quoted text

In a message dated 6/22/2008 11:10:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
chipcook@... writes:

Looking for a EV, looking for low miles. Also scared of  auto
transmissions breaking (I have only owned VW Manuals so far).  

I am in Greensboro, NC. I saw this in NJ:
_ 
() 




****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      ()

reset brake pad warning lamp?

Dan Pastor

#104750

Just replaced the front brake pads.  warning lamp still on.  Looks like
((0)).  How does one reset (turn off) the blasted lamp?
2003 Eurovan GL
Thanks!

Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run

dave_king_ev

#104739

Wiggle the key in the switch, or push and hold, or buy a new one ($10
-- you can get a new one in two days from europarts or your dealer
probably has them in stock).

A vacuum leak is not going to cause a no run condition.  Your engine
runs when you crank it, and vacuum is leaking then, too, and yet it
runs.  The ECM doesn't turn off the ignition or fuel when there's a
vacuum leak.

Show quoted text

--- In ev_update@..., "John Johnson" <johnnie5@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@> wrote:
So if I was going to hot wire the switch I would run 12 volts from the
battery to where, as a test to bypass the switch run position?

I can't find the OBD connector, period.

I agree on the pump/regulator - it fires up smoothly then dies.

The vacuum hoses disconnected bother me, would the ECU turn off with a
vacuum leak?

Has anyone checked the ignition switch (behind the key).  Those have
been a weak link on VWs since the Third Reich.

Don't expect OBDI to tell you what's wrong with the ignition....it
can't detect that level of detail usually.

After replacing two fuel pumps that should tell two things:  there was
nothing wrong with the original pump, and there was nothing wrong with
the first replacement pump.  Leave the second replacement alone.

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the injector rail, I think (at
least that's what you'd expect), but I bet your problem isn't fuel.

Best way to get a manual right away is to buy one from Bentley direct.
 You can always find them on ebay, too, for a lot less.

EVC Luggage Carrier Mounts

#104738

I removed my front Luggage Carrier on a 2000 EVc to mount some hold-downs on it.
To my surprise the underlying attachment hardware was badly rusted and consisted of thin
steel brackets each only riveted on only one side to the EVC roof.  I cleaned up the rust,
coated the brackets with rust stopping solution and repainted them.

But I wouldn't trust the rack with anything very heavy or valuable.  This seems to be the rule
on my van.  The Winnebago parts are not corrosion resistant, and in some cases flimsy and
not well made.

So see what I mean go to the Photo  Section under Luggage Carrier Front EVC

Re: EVC Electrical Problem

jack_son_73

#104733

John -

Yes, my original Converter was a Magnetek 30A unit,
& it had an internal breaker, with excess voltage
drop through it. Since only 6A of the 30 was used
for charging, I never got much of a charge. It is
about a $10-15 item, & would only take 1 minute to
replace, once you have the Magnetek out, & open.

I wanted higher DC output, so found the 45A model
on EBay - NIB. They were taken over by Parallax,
who has similar units with their name on them.

If your problem is that internal breaker, get one
like the front breaker on firewall left of battery.

While tracing your problem, don't overlook ALL wires
& crimped lugs done by Winnebago. They did poor work,
& perhaps the same guy was "Quality" inspector.

I kept my original Magnetek in case I had a problem
with the replacement one, but it's never malfunctioned.

I should have looked harder for a better replacement
for my Magnetek. I understand someone makes a
Converter-Charger-Inverter [sine wave]. It would be
great to have a 3-in-one, even with limited Inverter power.

Let us know what you find.

Regards,

Jack_son

===============
--In ev_update@..., "John Stamford" <johnstamford@...>
wrote:

Jack-son,

Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear!  Was your originalconverter a Magtech or something else?  You say it has an internal
breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach
battery box.  I opened the access door to the converter which is
accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring
connections which I redid.

Regards, John
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...>
  To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...>
  Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM
  Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem

  Jas -

  I was trying to keep you from having to access the
  Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the
  rear power panel, & access requires removing the
  large plastic panel below the closet. The converter
  has an internal breaker similar/identical to the
  ones near the batteries.

  I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced
  mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output
  into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC
  'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had
  6A for charging house bat.]

  If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all
  seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic
  cover to the left of luggage area, below closet.

  Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach
  the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't
  have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial]
  access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I
  will do the same.

  The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches
  forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via
  converter], & front relay connect.

  Regards,

  Jack-son
  ========================
  ---In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote:
  >
  > Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
  > diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and
  > another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication ofa
  > breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer...
  through
  > the air vents for the heater?
  >
  > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:
  > >
  > > The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
  > > goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just
  > > forward of the Converter. The converter is
  > > connected to that tie point, & to
  > > rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.
  > > There is another circuit breaker near the rear
  > > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to
  > > shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the
  > > 3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front
  > > firewall relay.
  > >
  > > BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on
  > > one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also
  > > a defective identical 30A breaker inside the
  > > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so
  > > my rear bat never got a full charge, from
  > > alternator or on shore power. I drove back to
  > > selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but
  > > they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems].
  > > Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they
  > > welcomed back 'home'.
  > >
  > > BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to
  > > chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house
  > > wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc.
  > > would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle
  > > ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors
  > > as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed
  > > while working on my van.
  > >
  > > Jack_son
  > > '03 EVC '01 Passat
  > > ===============
  > > --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@>
  wrote:
  > > >
  > > > Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall justabove
  the
  > > > battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 ampcircut-
  > > breaker
  > > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and
  fuse
  > > > checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's nextconnection
  for
  > > > distribution?
  > > >
  > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:
  > > > >
  > > > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the
  engine
  > is
  > > > > running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge therear
  > > > battery.
  > > > > A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them.
  Usually
  > > about
  > > > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There
  > should
  > > > be 3
  > > > > wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or
  nuts
  > > > > holding it to the wall.
  > > > >
  > > > > Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close
  > to
  > > the
  > > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping onit
  > with
  > > a
  > > > > non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.
  > > > >
  > > > > Duane
  > > > > 05HD Rialta
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford"
  <johnstamford@>
  > > > wrote:
  > > > > >
  > > > > > My 95 was working fine with the coach battery beingcharged
  > by
  > > > the
  > > > > > altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked...an
  > THEN!
  > > I
  > > > go on
  > > > > > a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping therefridge
  > cold
  > > > while
  > > > > > driving. A volt meter told me that I was not gettingany
  > juice
  > > at
  > > > the
  > > > > > battery with the engine running and the alternatorshowed
  > 14.5
  > > > VDC
  > > > > > output at the battery under the hood. Shorelinerecharged
  the
  > > > coach
  > > > > > battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, Ihave
  come
  > > to
  > > > the
  > > > > > conclusion that there is a relay the switches betweenthe
  > > > shoreline and
  > > > > > the alternator to charge the coach battery... questionis;
  1)
  > > am
  > > > I
  > > > > > correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3)how do
  I
  > > > change
  > > > > > it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That foranyone's
  help.
  > > > > >
  > > > >
  > > >
  > >
  >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: EVC Electrical Problem

John Stamford

#104732

Forest, thanks for the suggestion.  I had thought about it, but my wife is a little safety crazy.  On second thought, I will do that until I pin point the 12 volt problem. Regards, John

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: forest flanigan<mailto:creoflan@...> 
  To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> 
  Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:06 AM
  Subject: Re: [ev_update] EVC Electrical Problem

  If you have a hard time finding a replacement solenoid or can't trace the
  problem you can always drive with the fridge on propane . Some folks
  recommend turning the propane off during fueling but I find no problem with
  leaving the fridge lit while refueling. If you do turn off the fridge while
  putting gas in you need a well charged rear battery to get it re lit.
  Good luck
  Forest

Re: EVC Electrical Problem

John Stamford

#104731

Jack-son,

Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear!  Was your original converter a Magtech or something else?  You say it has an internal breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach battery box.  I opened the access door to the converter which is accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring connections which I redid.

Regards, John

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...> 
  To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> 
  Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM
  Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem


  Jas - 

  I was trying to keep you from having to access the 
  Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the 
  rear power panel, & access requires removing the 
  large plastic panel below the closet. The converter 
  has an internal breaker similar/identical to the 
  ones near the batteries.

  I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced 
  mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output 
  into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC 
  'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had 
  6A for charging house bat.]

  If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all 
  seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic 
  cover to the left of luggage area, below closet.

  Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach 
  the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't 
  have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial] 
  access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I 
  will do the same.

  The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches 
  forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via 
  converter], & front relay connect.

  Regards,

  Jack-son 
  ========================
  ---In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@..> wrote:
  >
  > Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal 
  > diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and 
  > another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a 
  > breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... 
  through 
  > the air vents for the heater?
  > 
  > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:
  > >
  > > The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay 
  > > goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just 
  > > forward of the Converter. The converter is 
  > > connected to that tie point, & to 
  > > rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire. 
  > > There is another circuit breaker near the rear 
  > > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to 
  > > shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the 
  > > 3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front 
  > > firewall relay.
  > > 
  > > BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on 
  > > one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also 
  > > a defective identical 30A breaker inside the 
  > > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so 
  > > my rear bat never got a full charge, from 
  > > alternator or on shore power. I drove back to 
  > > selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but 
  > > they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems]. 
  > > Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they 
  > > welcomed back 'home'.
  > > 
  > > BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to 
  > > chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house 
  > > wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc. 
  > > would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle 
  > > ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors 
  > > as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed 
  > > while working on my van.
  > > 
  > > Jack_son
  > > '03 EVC '01 Passat
  > > ===============
  > > --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> 
  wrote:
  > > >
  > > > Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above 
  the 
  > > > battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-
  > > breaker 
  > > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and 
  fuse 
  > > > checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection 
  for 
  > > > distribution?
  > > > 
  > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:
  > > > >
  > > > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the 
  engine 
  > is
  > > > > running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear 
  > > > battery. 
  > > > > A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. 
  Usually 
  > > about
  > > > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There 
  > should 
  > > > be 3
  > > > > wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or 
  nuts
  > > > > holding it to the wall.
  > > > > 
  > > > > Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close 
  > to 
  > > the
  > > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it 
  > with 
  > > a
  > > > > non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.
  > > > > 
  > > > > Duane
  > > > > 05HD Rialta
  > > > > 
  > > > > 
  > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" 
  <johnstamford@> 
  > > > wrote:
  > > > > >
  > > > > > My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged 
  > by 
  > > > the 
  > > > > > altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an 
  > THEN! 
  > > I 
  > > > go on 
  > > > > > a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge 
  > cold 
  > > > while 
  > > > > > driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any 
  > juice 
  > > at 
  > > > the 
  > > > > > battery with the engine running and the alternator showed 
  > 14.5 
  > > > VDC 
  > > > > > output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged 
  the 
  > > > coach 
  > > > > > battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have 
  come 
  > > to 
  > > > the 
  > > > > > conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the 
  > > > shoreline and 
  > > > > > the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 
  1) 
  > > am 
  > > > I 
  > > > > > correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do 
  I 
  > > > change 
  > > > > > it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's 
  help.
  > > > > >
  > > > >
  > > >
  > >
  >

Re: 3-way fridge

John Stamford

#104730

First, check and make sure that the single push/pull 15 amp breaker in your rear panel is PUSHED IN.  Second, make sure all the ones on the left are pushed in as well.  You might want to take the double vent cover for the heater in the back off and open the access door to the converter and make sure that all of the wiring has solid connections.  Take the wire nuts off and double check the wire stripping... Winnebago has a lot to learn about good wiring!  Regards, John

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: sparksgal2003<mailto:63342@...> 
  To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> 
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:38 AM
  Subject: [ev_update] 3-way fridge

  hi group, 
  noticed a recent thread on the norcold fridge. my fridge in my 1997 evc 
  does not work on "110volt" shore power mode. does anyone have 
  suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem. it works just fine on 
  12v and propane modes.
  thanks...

Tranny Fluid, how much?

David E. Fahnestock

#104729

I ordered four Quarts of the cheaper fluid from Euro Parts. Wasn't enough to come out the
over flow when engine and tranny up to temp. Looks like four quarts would be about a pint
less than four liters. Don't know the exact capacity of tranny. Maybe I'm OK.

On a side note, I could not replace the rear rotors. Could not get the bolts loose, even with a
two foot extension on the socket wrench. Had no trouble replacing the front rotors.

At 227,804 miles (Highway miles), still going strong. Change oil every 5000 miles. Uses no
oil between changes.
AC & Cruise perfect. Fridge perfect. Nothing wrong. Pretty good for a 2002 EVC.

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