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I recently bought myself a 5" Elliott dividing head, but it was only when I got it home that I realised that it's almost comically large on the FB2 mill. I haven't been able to find a maximum table weight in the manual, but at 55kg, it feels near the limit. Does anyone else have experience or insight that might be helpful? Here's a picture of the dividing head on the mill (at the centre of the unit, so as not to stress the castings) with the head raised to the maximum height. Jay

Hi everyone, Followup from my post here on my recently acquired V10P: /g/emcoV10lathe/topic/advice_on_purchasing_this/111150572 I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier. Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag: Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage. If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement. Here's my options: 1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea 2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 https://www.ebay.com/itm/135327445755?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=O-GhutFTSr2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=DEztzfMdTz2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY. I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement 3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now. 4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.

Hello. I have in my possession an EMCO Maximat V13 lathe and I have the original thread dial indicator. My lathe is metric, and I do not have the small chart for the thread dial indicator. Does anyone have this specific chart and could provide it to me?

I seem to recollect one of our members was looking for a tailstock for the old MQ series Maximat I see there was one on EBay yesterday – not sure if still available Normal disclaimer Regards, Carvel

I am curious about how that device works. Can anyone share some information or a video? No, i don't have one, but I have seen a lot of them for sale and I am always wondering. I have a real dividing head - a BS0-sized unit and that is nothing like the one from Emco. Best Regards, Andrei mailto:calciu1@...

Can anyone point me towards an "inexpensive" load reactor/filter which I can put between my vfd and the older emco motor? The motor is a 3ph 220v .81KW. Sierra

Ok, so it is there to smoothe it out, but, what of the voltage spikes/wave form whatevers(I’m outta my apples n oranges here) but, don’t the vfd’s output voltage spikes? Are the chokes set or can so set so that it does not go above 240 volts? Yes, I’m confused by it On Mar 22, 2025, at 3:00 PM, cwlathes via groups.io <carvelw@...> wrote: ? Hi Sierra The choke / reactor is there in series to smooth out the current going through it , so the voltage rating is just an insulation issue So the voltage rating must be equal to or higher than whatever voltage your VFD is pushing through it Am I making any sense ? Carvel From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Sierra Tunafish Monkeymind Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 10:47 PM To: [email protected] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] vfd load reactor suggestions? Thank Ye Carvel. I get confused with the voltage ratings on the ones I see listed at 4 and 600v and am unsure if I need something specific for 240v, or if they are rated for higher but limit it via some other parameters or settings? On Mar 22, 2025, at 1:11 PM, cwlathes via groups.io <carvelw@...> wrote: ? Hi Sierra The chokes / reactors will be heavy , even smaller one ? , so you want something not too far away . . Suggest do a search along the lines of “ VFD load reactor I kW “ and see I notice lots of stuff , new and used, on our well known auction site ? Regards, Carvel From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Sierra Tunafish Monkeymind Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 6:55 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [emcoV10lathe] vfd load reactor suggestions? Can anyone point me towards an "inexpensive" load reactor/filter which I can put between my vfd and the older emco motor? The motor is a 3ph 220v .81KW. Sierra

I have a question about tolerances when machining a new chuck back plate. I recently purchased a Maximat V10P. It is in pretty good shape but only came with an EMCO three-jaw chuck that was missing the outside jaws. I'd like to have the option to use a four jaw chuck that I own, so I need to machine new back plate. The lathe has a 1.5"x8 spindle nose. The previous owner gave me a 6" partially machined back plate that he never got around to mounting a chuck on. Here it is beside the OEM chuck. The threads on this plate fit just fine, but I need to machine a clamping feature or risk having the chuck unscrew when decelerating or running in reverse. Here is the problem: The shoulder behind the threads on my spindle nose has a diameter of 1.499". The mating diameter on the back plate measures 1.515". I don't have a lot of experience machining cast iron, but I suspect that this 0.016" difference is too big for a clamping feature to work. Even if I made generous relief cuts; the cast iron is just not flexible enough to close that big a gap. I'm thinking of boring the back plate out a bit further (maybe 0.050" or so), fitting a steel sleeve (bonded in with some retaining compound) with an ID of perhaps 1.501", and then proceeding with creating the clamping features. Does that sound like a reasonable plan of attack? I considered just using the back plate as is (with no clamping feature). I know some older US-made lathes do this, but after reading other threads on this forum I think it's probably better to be safe than sorry. Thanks in advance for the advice.

Hello All, I’m finally getting around to cleaning up a new to V10-P and realizing it needs a little more than clean! I have a couple of questions for the group. My gear #5 to gear #6 shear pins are sheared or almost sheared. I read in a previous post to use Aluminum weld rod - I believe 1/8” should work. Is that correct? The parts manual calls for steel spring pins. Any suggestions? There are 4 holes - should there be 2 or 4 pins? I’m missing one of the #12 shims - any suggestions on where to get those? Thanks for the help!! Josh

All Following a comment from one of our members that the group can get very “busy” at times and create a lot of emails that might not interest everyone , I thought it would be helpful to point out that one’s email settings can be selected individually to suit each person’s preferences and can be modified at any time Go to the “settings” under “Subscription” on the Group page to select how you want your stuff to be delivered ? Regards, Carvel Co-moderator

I know that we all hate it when you get finished putting something back together and there are parts left over. Well its one of those times, but I don't even know what they came out of. Please look at the pictures attached. I wanted to see if anyone recognizes them. Its possible they came out of my V10P, but they look significant enough that I would have thought with them missing something would have not been working correctly. I found them close together underneath my lathe, however my lathe has wheels and so does everything else in that section of the garage. Some days things move all around so I can access something stored behind them, so just because I found it underneath the lathe doesn't mean it came from there. I figure there were enough people here that have taken their lathes apart, that someone would recognize them. This section of the garage is where I store lot's of stuff that's "too good to throw away cause I might use it one day", so its possible its something random that I saved years ago and it just happened to fall to the floor one day when I was shuffling things around. The day that I found them was not too long after I'd taken my mill vise apart, so I put them in a plastic bag and set them next to the vise, thinking it went inside the vise. It was just this week that I finally got around to needing to use the vise, but when I took the vise apart I didn't see a spot for them. The two pieces are close to the same diameter, with the shiny piece slightly smaller and made out of a softer metal, The second piece has flats on it, so it can be held by a wrench, and there is a setscrew inside it. Its possible they came from entirely different sources from my lathe. My power carriage and cross-feed both are working. I have never taken my carriage or apron apart. Any ideas? Bill Nite V10P owner in Southeast USA

Joined this group a while ago to start research on my recently acquired Maximat V10 1972 machine (light blue). Finally made a bench for it and now the cleaning begins (old oil/grease caked-up and globbed-up in the feed box--wow, that took a while!). I know there has been a lot of discussion on the plastic gear being broken on the reversing arm and I have that problem as well as can be seen in the picture (yellow-y gear on end). Can someone who has ordered that gear from QTC give me the specifications or part# they used when ordering? Also, words of wisdom/caution on removing any of those gears for cleaning and any procedures to put back on? Seems there are lash/tolerance adjustments I've seen mentioned but can't remember if that was for other gearsets (all the research starts running together!) I am mechanically-inclined and do auto repair for lots of people and an intermediate woodworker but this is my first foray into machining and I will have a LOT OF LEARNING to do and really appreciate the info on this group but not having any machining experience a lot of the discussions fly over my head at this point. Thank you for any info! -- “JD” in NC V10 "Blue" June 1972