just finished my little tool project now the mill works :)
?
Im not sure how to put photos on here yet so here¡¯s a very short clip¡.
?
?
?
Im just waiting on a long 90mm bolt to try it out !
?
The general idea is for making crankshafts as accurate as possible due to the tools defection should it catch / grab the tool won¡¯t dig in marr the part or snap the blade :)
There are definitely limits to the mill but when you need it you need it !
?
I have been used to a small proxxon with the mill attachment which is much higher speed for small drills/mills and small taping jobs it¡¯s great ?? But as you say you tend to spend a fair bit of time switching between mill and lathe¡.
?
So this machine is to fill the gap in work piece sizes as I¡¯m making bigger parts on and off .
?
Here¡¯s a short of the cheap DROs and the noise I¡¯ve improved a bit more too ! I think it¡¯s probably ok ??
?
?
?
Cheers R
?
Re: Shear Pin for Lead Screw and Lead Screw Removal
I'd highly recommend using the live version of the Unofficial manual, as it's updated over time. PDF verison in the files section is there mostly so people can find it (and find about it) :)
This is the live Google docs link
?
I remind everyone that it's the editable version, so you can all simply add or edit material in it (and are encouraged to do so). I do my best to approve suggestions and undo accidental changes as time permits.
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of David via Sent: Sunday, June 1, 2025 5:34 AM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Shear Pin for Lead Screw and Lead Screw Removal
?
Pardon my technical incompetence - where might I find Vedran¡¯s informal user manual?
Regarding the leadscrew, depending on where you are, you might want to farm that job out. Keith Fanner of Turn Wright Youtube fame has a few videos on the subject?
You wouldn't want to use heat though
I'd expect some error in leadscrew precision as a result, but probably not enough to worry about. It would probably be localized to the spot where it was bent / unbent
On Tue, Jun 3, 2025 at 1:02?AM John Hammond via <jrhammond95003=[email protected]> wrote:
thanks so much Tim!
On Mon, Jun 2, 2025 at 3:52?PM Tim D Schomer via <rototype=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi John,
The bearings are either 6201 (x5) or 6301 (x1) - try and go for branded
bearings as they'll last longer. You don't necessarily need to get the
single sided sealed ones as the seals can be removed easily (and 2 sided
sealed ones are generally cheaper).
Depending how bent and where the leadscrew's bent you should be able to
straighten it fairly easily but be gentle with it as you don't want to
make it worse.
Tim
(Hereford, UK)
On 02/06/2025 23:42, John Hammond via wrote:
> Hello folks,
>
> I picked up a basket case Maximat V10 for free a little while ago and am
> just now getting to it. So far it looks pretty complete. There are a
> couple of broken pieces but nothing major. BTW, this is new to me.
>
> The lead screw is slightly bent. Can this be straightened or do I need
> to replace it? Will straightening it ruin the threading precision?
>
> I've broken down the Norton gearbox. Gears look good but I would like to
> replace the bearings. Anyone have the bearing specs and a good source. 5
> of the 6 bearings had no inner shield but the 6th does. Anyone know why
> that might be. Do I pack the bearings or does it rely on the oil in the box?
>
> That is it for now, thanks very much for any help you may be willing to
> give.
>
> John
>
>
>
Hi Carvel thank you for your try?:-D:-D:-D:-D?patiently explain i am very apreciated but i read it i new what you say but my brain resist it to allow me to uderstand it , simly my brain is not build to absorb this type of magical knowlege named electrical and electronics just i need see it in version of wire diagram it will huge help ,i start lost when you try explaine me about Dahlander motor ..... i am very sorry , regards Roman
Hi Carvel i see my appologi litle bit over panic always when is go about electric conection , OK so if i have to connect with regular emco buttons connectio with VFD is go from on similar place like regular power cable ,if i want to add external buttons probably i have to study connection between cable and buttons ok ,i was just currious if i can use one VFD with us two speed motor because guys tell me that you can set up only one speed frequency but thi motor use two speed and two diferent frequensy for each speed , i also remember guy last time send me wire diagram for the new connection without buttons but use rotary switch multi conection , i hope it will help .
my regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: cwlathes via groups.io <carvelw@...> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 1. 6. 2025 12:19:18 ±Ê?±ð»å³¾¨§³Ù: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Maximat 7 mill head motor issues
Hi Roman
Have a look at the wiring diagram in your manual
The labels and wire colours are shown
If it is different to yours please advise what the colours are as there were a couple of changes from early to later lathes
The 3 phase input is RST and on my picture I used L1 L2 and L3
Carvel
?
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of roman fox via groups.io Sent: Sunday, June 1, 2025 11:59 AM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Maximat 7 mill head motor issues
?
Thank you Carvel for explanation now i understand litle bit better?:-D?but still i have not clue how connect original buttons into VFD ?, OK and now question and if i would like to connect this motor directly to VFD ,maybe use stronger or different buttons ? from motor go out 6 wires + one earth any idea- advise or drawing?
sorry for all this question but it will hery help if i know where from and which wire i should connect into.
i very like the collor draw?:-D:-)?regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: cwlathes via groups.io <carvelw@...> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 1. 6. 2025 10:34:19 ±Ê?±ð»å³¾¨§³Ù: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Maximat 7 mill head motor issues
Ahoj Romane,
t?¨ªf¨¢zov? motor a sp¨ªna?e Emco nap¨¢jen¨¦ t?¨ªf¨¢zov?m nap¨¢jen¨ªm zapoj¨ª motor s¨¦riov¨§ do troj¨²heln¨ªku, kdy? stisknete tla?¨ªtko ?Pomalu¡°. Kdy? pot¨¦ stisknete tla?¨ªtko ?Rychle¡°, sp¨ªna?e se odpoj¨ª od s¨¦riov¨¦ho zapojen¨ª a znovu se zapoj¨ª do paraleln¨ª konfigurace. To zp?sobuje p?ep¨§t¨ª a ur?it¨¦ ?pi?ky, co? je v po?¨¢dku, pokud je nap¨¢jeno ze s¨ªt¨§, ale mohlo by to po?kodit frekven?n¨ª m¨§ni?.
Pokud tedy pracujete s frekven?n¨ªm m¨§ni?em se standardn¨ªmi p?ep¨ªna?i Emco, mus¨ªte nejprve zvolit bu? ?Pomalu¡°, nebo ?Rychle¡° a pot¨¦ zapnout frekven?n¨ª m¨§ni?.
Pokud m¨¢te na soustruhu standardn¨ª t?¨ªf¨¢zov? motor 380 V, m??ete jej provozovat s frekven?n¨ªm m¨§ni?em 220 V s jednof¨¢zov?m vstupem a t?¨ªf¨¢zov?m v?stupem a? do polovi?n¨ª frekvence a rychlosti a ?asto bude fungovat dostate?n¨§ (750 ot./min v pomal¨¦m re?imu a 1500 ot./min v rychl¨¦m re?imu) ¨C nad touto hodnotou se rychlost zvy?uje, ale chyb¨ª v?kon ¨C viz graf.
Pokud jej chcete provozovat na pln? v?kon a rychlost, pot?ebujete frekven?n¨ª m¨§ni? 220 V vstup / 380 V v?stup, co? je drah¨¦.
?ada na?ich ?len? v?ak zjistila, ?e re?im s polovi?n¨ª frekvenc¨ª je pro v¨§t?inu pou?it¨ª v po?¨¢dku.
S pozdravem,
Carvel
?
Od:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] ´³³¾¨¦²Ô±ð³¾ roman fox p?es groups.io °¿»å±ð²õ±ô¨¢²Ô´Ç: ned¨§le 1. ?ervna 2025 2:48 Komu:[email protected] ±Ê?±ð»å³¾¨§³Ù: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Probl¨¦my s motorem fr¨¦zovac¨ª hlavy Maximat 7
?
Ahoj Carvel, omlouv¨¢m se za m¨¦ velmi n¨ªzk¨¦ znalosti o elektrotechnice, ale nech¨¢pu, co to znamen¨¢??
?? M¨§ni? s frekven?n¨ªm m¨§ni?em m??ete p?ipojit k jak¨¦koli konfiguraci, pokud jej nezapnete pod nap¨§t¨ªm.¡° Nezap¨ªn¨¢te ho pod nap¨§t¨ªm??? A jak tento motor pob¨§?¨ª bez nap¨¢jen¨ª? Proto?e m¨¢m doma jen 220 V, tak?e budu muset pou?¨ªt frekven?n¨ª m¨§ni? z 220 na 380 V, mohl byste mi pros¨ªm nakreslit, jak se motor k frekven?n¨ªmu m¨§ni?i p?ipojuje? Na t¨§chto obr¨¢zc¨ªch, kter¨¦ jste mi poslali, mi bohu?el ne?¨ªkaj¨ª, jak se tento motor k frekven?n¨ªmu m¨§ni?i p?ipojuje. Pravd¨§podobn¨§ jen ukazuj¨ª, jak to funguje, ale nic mi ne?¨ªkaj¨ª. Pot?ebuji vid¨§t n¨¢kres zapojen¨ª, jak zapojit ka?dou barvu vodi?e k frekven?n¨ªmu m¨§ni?i. To by mi m¨§lo hodn¨§ pomoci, d¨§kuji. Roman. ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ----------- Od: cwlathes p?es groups.io <carvelw@...> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 31. 5. 2025 23:09:16 ±Ê?±ð»å³¾¨§³Ù: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Probl¨¦m s motorem fr¨¦zovac¨ª hlavy Maximat 7
Vrchn¨ª ?¨ªm?tina
?
Trojf¨¢zov¨¦ motory Emco maj¨ª tzv. ?Dahlanderovo¡° zapojen¨ª.
Maj¨ª 6 vinut¨ª, kter¨¢ jsou v?dy spojena jedn¨ªm ze dvou zp?sob?.
V s¨¦riov¨¦m zapojen¨ª do troj¨²heln¨ªku se jedn¨¢ o ?ty?p¨®lov? motor, kter? b¨§?¨ª pomalu. V zapojen¨ª
do?? hv¨§zdy (nebo Wye) jsou zapojeny?? paraleln¨§ a tvo?¨ª dvoup¨®lov? motor s vysokou rychlost¨ª. M¨§ni? kmito?tu
(VFD) m??ete p?ipojit k jak¨¦koli konfiguraci, pokud jej nezapnete pod nap¨§t¨ªm.
V re?imu troj¨²heln¨ªk bude VFD ?¨ªdit ot¨¢?ky od 0 do 1500 ot/min, zat¨ªmco v re?imu hv¨§zda bude stejn? VFD ?¨ªdit ot¨¢?ky od 0 do 3000 ot/min (p?i 50 Hz).
Toto jsou dv¨§ zapojen¨ª, kter¨¢ se t?kaj¨ª:
?
Carvel
?
Od:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] ´³³¾¨¦²Ô±ð³¾ roman fox p?es groups.io °¿»å±ð²õ±ô¨¢²Ô´Ç: sobota 31. kv¨§tna 2025 21:34 Komu:[email protected] ±Ê?±ð»å³¾¨§³Ù: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Probl¨¦my s motorem fr¨¦zovac¨ª hlavy Maximat 7
?
Ahoj Carvel, m??u se zeptat? Spousta lid¨ª mi tady ?¨ªk¨¢, ?e na jednom m¨§ni?i s frekvenc¨ª 380 V nem??e? provozovat dvourychlostn¨ª motor, proto?e se jedn¨¢ o dva r?zn¨¦ frekvence vinut¨ª souvisej¨ªc¨ª s rychlost¨ª. Je to OK? Mohl bys ale pou?¨ªt dva men?¨ª m¨§ni?e s frekvenc¨ª dle v?konu v kW? A pokud ano, jak by se m¨§ly zapojit? Lze tuto metodu pou?¨ªt i pro dvourychlostn¨ª motor na 230 V?
regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: cwlathes via groups.io <carvelw@...> Komu: [email protected] regad Datum: 31. 5. 2025 19:06:17 ±Ê?±ð»å³¾¨§³Ù: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Maximat 7 mill head motor issues
Ahoj Ricku,
z tv?ch ¨²daj? m¨¢m podez?en¨ª, ?e se jedn¨¢ o jednof¨¢zov? motor PSC (permanentn¨ª d¨§len? kondenz¨¢tor).
M¨¢ dv¨§ vinut¨ª, hlavn¨ª a sekund¨¢rn¨ª, a sekund¨¢rn¨ª vinut¨ª je trvale zapojeno p?es kondenz¨¢tor pro start a chod, tak?e mus¨ª b?t trvale dimenzov¨¢no.
Zkontroluj, zda je tv?j motor takto zapojen? a zda je kondenz¨¢tor v po?¨¢dku, nen¨ª zkratovan? a nen¨ª?? p?¨ªli? velk?, jinak by se mohl p?eh?¨¢t. S pozdravem, Carvel
?
Od:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] ´³³¾¨¦²Ô±ð³¾ cwlathes p?es groups.io °¿»å±ð²õ±ô¨¢²Ô´Ç: sobota 31. kv¨§tna 2025 14:37 Komu:[email protected]; carvelw@... ±Ê?±ð»å³¾¨§³Ù: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Probl¨¦my s motorem fr¨¦zovac¨ª hlavy Maximat 7
?
Ahoj Ricku?
?
Toto je nestandardn¨ª motor na 220 V, ale ozvu se v¨¢m s n¨¢vrhem zapojen¨ª, kter¨¦ m??ete vyzkou?et.?
On Mon, Jun 2, 2025 at 3:52?PM Tim D Schomer via <rototype=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi John,
The bearings are either 6201 (x5) or 6301 (x1) - try and go for branded
bearings as they'll last longer. You don't necessarily need to get the
single sided sealed ones as the seals can be removed easily (and 2 sided
sealed ones are generally cheaper).
Depending how bent and where the leadscrew's bent you should be able to
straighten it fairly easily but be gentle with it as you don't want to
make it worse.
Tim
(Hereford, UK)
On 02/06/2025 23:42, John Hammond via wrote:
> Hello folks,
>
> I picked up a basket case Maximat V10 for free a little while ago and am
> just now getting to it. So far it looks pretty complete. There are a
> couple of broken pieces but nothing major. BTW, this is new to me.
>
> The lead screw is slightly bent. Can this be straightened or do I need
> to replace it? Will straightening it ruin the threading precision?
>
> I've broken down the Norton gearbox. Gears look good but I would like to
> replace the bearings. Anyone have the bearing specs and a good source. 5
> of the 6 bearings had no inner shield but the 6th does. Anyone know why
> that might be. Do I pack the bearings or does it rely on the oil in the box?
>
> That is it for now, thanks very much for any help you may be willing to
> give.
>
> John
>
>
>
The bearings are either 6201 (x5) or 6301 (x1) - try and go for branded bearings as they'll last longer. You don't necessarily need to get the single sided sealed ones as the seals can be removed easily (and 2 sided sealed ones are generally cheaper).
Depending how bent and where the leadscrew's bent you should be able to straighten it fairly easily but be gentle with it as you don't want to make it worse.
On 02/06/2025 23:42, John Hammond via groups.io wrote:
Hello folks, I picked up a basket case Maximat V10 for free a little while ago and am just now getting to it. So far it looks pretty complete. There are a couple of broken pieces but nothing major. BTW, this is new to me. The lead screw is slightly bent. Can this be straightened or do I need to replace it? Will straightening it ruin the threading precision? I've broken down the Norton gearbox. Gears look good but I would like to replace the bearings. Anyone have the bearing specs and a good source. 5 of the 6 bearings had no inner shield but the 6th does. Anyone know why that might be. Do I pack the bearings or does it rely on the oil in the box? That is it for now, thanks very much for any help you may be willing to give. John
The VFD that came with my V10 was a Teco, albeit an old one (when I contacted the helpdesk about a settings manual they said it was one of the 'early ones') - but having said that it's never given me any grief, last year I thought it was shorting out but that turned out to be the motor (insulation breaking down).
My only concern with using these on an older motor is the effect of using the VFD can cause the insulation to break down, meaning if you splash the motor with coolant while you're turning it might short and take out the GFI (that's what happened to mine) - the VFD survived quite in tact - I now have a fire rated motor (came from a fuel pump).
On 02/06/2025 22:46, 63reddog1 via groups.io wrote:
This is the way I've finally gone to get a version of 3 phase 440v power to my lathe and mill. ?It can run both motors at once which is ideal for x-y feed using the lathe motor. I would like to thank all for the previous advice and experience helping me to make my decision which initially began over 12 months ago (poor health delays). It is a Taiwanese make , Tecco E510 series inverter installed all in for $1700(the unit retails here for upto $1750) which is a hell of alot cheaper than pretty much every other option here in Australia, they don't miss us here. Has anyone else used this brand / model or has any recommendations regarding extra protection with filters and such I have been watching keenly about issues using vfds on these older motors. Regards Glenn
I picked up a basket case Maximat V10 for free a little while ago and am just now getting to it. So far it looks pretty complete. There are a couple of broken pieces but nothing major. BTW, this is new to me.
The lead screw is slightly bent. Can this be straightened or do I need to replace it? Will straightening it ruin the threading precision?
I've broken down the Norton gearbox. Gears look good but I would like to replace the bearings. Anyone have the bearing specs and a good source. 5 of the 6 bearings had no inner shield but the 6th does. Anyone know why that might be. Do I pack the bearings or does it rely on the oil in the box?
That is it for now, thanks very much for any help you may be willing to give.
This is the way I've finally gone to get a version of 3 phase 440v power to my lathe and mill.
?It can run both motors at once which is ideal for x-y feed using the lathe motor.?
I would like to thank all for the previous advice and experience helping me to make my decision which initially began over 12 months ago (poor health delays).
It is a Taiwanese make , Tecco E510 series inverter installed all in for $1700(the unit retails here for upto $1750) which is a hell of alot cheaper than pretty much every other option here in Australia, they don't miss us here.
Has anyone else used this brand / model or has any recommendations regarding extra protection with filters and such I have been watching keenly about issues using vfds on these older motors.
Clearly you need a Myford as well so that when the V10-P is set up for milling you can use the Myford and vice versa ?
I suppose I am addicted to machine tools and I have a Bridgeport for larger work , but I find the Mill on the V10_P ideal for ¡°fiddly¡± bits and precision drilling ?. . . .
Although not imminent ( I hope ) , if I ever have to move to a smaller place the V10-P combo is earmarked as my last resort before I depart to that workshop in the sky? . . .? ?
I have a love-hate relationship with the milling attachment. On one hand it allowed me to make my first mill chips and it looked like a cool thing to have on my V10p, however, the mill is pretty anemic and lacks rigidity for larger tooling and depth of cut. Top?speed is too low?for small tooling and it doesn't help that mine is somewhat worn out. Worst of all, V10p table is kinda?small (for a mill), is held in only by gravity?and it's bloody?never configured as a machine you need for a task at hand. If you need to turn something, you can bet the milling vice is mounted on the?table - if you want to mill, then you'll?find a compound installed. Only scenario?where I'd recommend a milling attachment?is when space is at absolute premium and you can't fit in a bench or freestanding milling machine.?
?
It is however a nice tool and if you have time it will get the job done. It's also pretty versatile as you can put it in unusual positions which is handy every once in a while
?
Regards
?
Vedran
?
?
On Mon, Jun 2, 2025 at 1:02?PM teamricky.m via <teamricky.m=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Vedran,
?
?
Yes I have got the flywheel fairly tight now and shimmed the crinkle - drive washer ,
?
Also the cooling fan is on and shrouded and I can feel ok air flow , Not wild but it flows!
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of teamricky.m via groups.io Sent: Monday, June 2, 2025 12:59 PM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Maximat 7 mill head motor issues
?
Hi Carvel,
?
?
You certainly know your craft ;)
?
I re-wired the motor as per your drawing,
?
Now runs half as hot, Simmalr power output at the spindle which on my test cuts is enough for me ..
?
Just the gear noise and vibration to get rid of and it works fine ?:)
?
In my handbook (electronic) I can¡¯t see the specs for the needle rolling bearings to enable me to buy a set in advance if I guess a final strip and fix ¡
?
I had forgotten to mention I used the soda can strip trick to slightly tighten the fly wheel, And replaced the O ring to flywheel as that was a tad loose, Unfortunately didn¡¯t help!
?
Lastly I had a bit of play in the spindle shaft key that¡¯s exposed at the top of the machine (draw bar tube if you will) I made a quick and dirty key installation from the top but no change ¡.
?
I don¡¯t think I can remove any more back lash easily¡.
Yup. My milling attachment is in a box, below the lathe. I am using a real manual milling machine that I got at a good price. It is a Rusnok 850 and I enjoy working on it.
I have a love-hate relationship with the milling attachment. On one hand it allowed me to make my first mill chips and it looked like a cool thing to have on my V10p, however, the mill is pretty anemic and lacks rigidity for larger tooling and depth of
cut. Top?speed is too low?for small tooling and it doesn't help that mine is somewhat worn out. Worst of all, V10p table is kinda?small (for a mill), is held in only by gravity?and it's bloody?never configured as a machine you need for a task at hand. If you
need to turn something, you can bet the milling vice is mounted on the?table - if you want to mill, then you'll?find a compound installed. Only scenario?where I'd recommend a milling attachment?is when space is at absolute premium and you can't fit in a bench
or freestanding milling machine.?
It is however a nice tool and if you have time it will get the job done. It's also pretty versatile as you can put it in unusual positions which is handy every once in a while
Regards
Vedran
On Mon, Jun 2, 2025 at 1:02?PM teamricky.m via
<teamricky.m=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Vedran,
?
?
Yes I have got the flywheel fairly tight now and shimmed the crinkle - drive washer ,
?
Also the cooling fan is on and shrouded and I can feel ok air flow , Not wild but it flows!
I have a love-hate relationship with the milling attachment. On one hand it allowed me to make my first mill chips and it looked like a cool thing to have on my V10p, however, the mill is pretty anemic and lacks rigidity for larger tooling and depth of cut. Top?speed is too low?for small tooling and it doesn't help that mine is somewhat worn out. Worst of all, V10p table is kinda?small (for a mill), is held in only by gravity?and it's bloody?never configured as a machine you need for a task at hand. If you need to turn something, you can bet the milling vice is mounted on the?table - if you want to mill, then you'll?find a compound installed. Only scenario?where I'd recommend a milling attachment?is when space is at absolute premium and you can't fit in a bench or freestanding milling machine.?
It is however a nice tool and if you have time it will get the job done. It's also pretty versatile as you can put it in unusual positions which is handy every once in a while
Now runs half as hot, Simmalr power output at the spindle which on my test cuts is enough for me ..
?
Just the gear noise and vibration to get rid of and it works fine ?:)
?
In my handbook (electronic) I can¡¯t see the specs for the needle rolling bearings to enable me to buy a set in advance if I guess a final strip and fix ¡
?
I had forgotten to mention I used the soda can strip trick to slightly tighten the fly wheel, And replaced the O ring to flywheel as that was a tad loose, Unfortunately didn¡¯t help!
?
Lastly I had a bit of play in the spindle shaft key that¡¯s exposed at the top of the machine (draw bar tube if you will) I made a quick and dirty key installation from the top but no change ¡.
?
I don¡¯t think I can remove any more back lash easily¡.
As Carvel pointed out, check your capacitor. It being bad or wrong size would cause heating.?
Someone (maybe not you) mentioned using a VFD. In your case that would cause trouble as well.?
Flywheel must be mounted pretty tight. The corrugated ferrule thingie holding it on, Can get too loose causing the flywheel to slip. It might not be obvious it¡¯s happening, try adding a shim as suggested
My 3ph mill can get pretty warm in use. 1ph motors run less efficient and can get too hot to hold your hand on. You might ?want to check your fan is correctly mounted an shroud is installed over it as othervise there is no cooling.?
On Sunday, June 1, 2025, teamricky.m via <teamricky.m=[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks for all the info gents ¡..
?
After going at this for most of the day I¡¯ve done the following:
?
Motor flywheel on or off still noisy?
?
I did find the counter shaft grub screw which was loose , Tightened and no better
?
I took the entire motor apart and found a witness mark around the commutator and stator which look like they rubbed , Sanded down the high spots and trying again no better?
?
Ran the motor only and it¡¯s not noisy at all
?
Put thick sticky grease on the gears , Works for 30 seconds or so then back to grinding?
?
Tried different mesh set ups on both levers no better?
?
Checked the main spindle bearings they are correctly tight with no rumble etc?
?
Loctite applied to bearings outer shells to housing on re assembly, No better?
?
Checked all radial bearings have been replaced by the repair agent
?
?
I will take a look at the wiring tomorrow¡
?
?
But I¡¯m pretty sure I¡¯m done with the worn out gears , motor temperature and it¡¯s just not useable at all ¡. I will go with a new brushless set up so at least the efforts put in get results, If any one knows of a set up please let me know ! If not I¡¯ll work something out ;)
?
?
Cheers R
--
Regards
Vedran
Re: Shear Pin for Lead Screw and Lead Screw Removal
On Friday, May 30, 2025, David via <Djed.geo=[email protected]> wrote:
Since I¡¯ve seen some questions about it before, I thought I would note that a product we have did great removing the hardened grease on the leadscrew. I did not (and likely would not) use it on painted surfaces.? It¡¯s called St Moritz Oil and Grease Remover Cold and substantially outperformed Purple Power. I did need to use a tooth brush to remove the metal bits and dried grease and followed the cleaning up with brake cleaner (California formulation).? I suspect I¡¯ll need to add grease or way oil on reassembly but I¡¯ll ask about that at a later time.?
After going at this for most of the day I¡¯ve done the following:
?
Motor flywheel on or off still noisy?
?
I did find the counter shaft grub screw which was loose , Tightened and no better
?
I took the entire motor apart and found a witness mark around the commutator and stator which look like they rubbed , Sanded down the high spots and trying again no better?
?
Ran the motor only and it¡¯s not noisy at all
?
Put thick sticky grease on the gears , Works for 30 seconds or so then back to grinding?
?
Tried different mesh set ups on both levers no better?
?
Checked the main spindle bearings they are correctly tight with no rumble etc?
?
Loctite applied to bearings outer shells to housing on re assembly, No better?
?
Checked all radial bearings have been replaced by the repair agent
?
?
I will take a look at the wiring tomorrow¡
?
?
But I¡¯m pretty sure I¡¯m done with the worn out gears , motor temperature and it¡¯s just not useable at all ¡. I will go with a new brushless set up so at least the efforts put in get results, If any one knows of a set up please let me know ! If not I¡¯ll work something out ;)
Tim D Schomer
63reddog1