Hi there are two versions long and short 400mm and 600mm betveen centre ,because shorter is similar like my?
emcomat 7 -400mm B.c? , clear weight is around 75 kg ( manula show 160Lb short version )longer version can have around 85 kg ( 180 Lb ) without stand and mill? + waight of palet you will translort on ,?
I have a V10P and freestanding FB2 but have just bought (over the net ), an Emcomat 8.6 and need to arrange transport for it. Can anyone look up and tell me the weight of the basic machine ? Without a mill or stand / chucks etc ? ( It would be listed in the specs page ) so I have an idea of how to handle it. I know what a Compact 8 weighs and a Compact 10 but I am assuming it is somewhere in between ?
I have a V10P and freestanding FB2 but have just bought (over the net ), an Emcomat 8.6 and need to arrange transport for it. Can anyone look up and tell me the weight of the basic machine ? Without a mill or stand / chucks etc ? ( It would be listed in the specs page ) so I have an idea of how to handle it. I know what a Compact 8 weighs and a Compact 10 but I am assuming it is somewhere in between ?
Does anyone have dimensions for the carriage lock? Mine is missing it. Looks easy enough to make, but it's in kind of an awkward spot under the saddle, makes it difficult to get a measurement. I figure it will be a bit of trial and error with the dimensions to get it to fit, so some known measurements would save some time.
Jay, Wow thats a monster for the FB2 -- far too big, flog it and buy something more suitable !
I have the Emco rotary table and the angle plate so it can be used as a dividing head, ?the only downside is it is not possible to tilt it.
?
So I have one of the Brown & Sharpe clones which works well, ?they are OK but not the same quality as the originals but not expensive either and adequate for home shop use. Mine is Vertex brand, there are many others.
?
Not sure where you are but on UK Ebay there are often smaller quality dividing heads from Senior, Elliot etc look for a 4" size.
I love what rotary tables can do. I would suggest looking at Sherline rotary tables and some of their other products( like a cool tilting table made for their vise and rotary table)They make very high quality products and the size of their rotary table may be more suitable for an FB2. In addition there is a gigantic community of active……makers,….hacking Sherline gear. For example,Sherline claims that their standard rotary table can not be adapted to a stepper, but of course, here is a photo of just such a hack I undertook…. Included is my home made controller and an example of what can be done. In this case I am cutting replacements for the damaged tumbler gears on my Maximat Compact. And if I can do this, …well, of course you guys can do better!
Jay, Wow thats a monster for the FB2 -- far too big, flog it and buy something more suitable !
I have the Emco rotary table and the angle plate so it can be used as a dividing head, ?the only downside is it is not possible to tilt it.
?
So I have one of the Brown & Sharpe clones which works well, ?they are OK but not the same quality as the originals but not expensive either and adequate for home shop use. Mine is Vertex brand, there are many others.
?
Not sure where you are but on UK Ebay there are often smaller quality dividing heads from Senior, Elliot etc look for a 4" size.
Jay, Wow thats a monster for the FB2 -- far too big, flog it and buy something more suitable !
I have the Emco rotary table and the angle plate so it can be used as a dividing head, ?the only downside is it is not possible to tilt it.
?
So I have one of the Brown & Sharpe clones which works well, ?they are OK but not the same quality as the originals but not expensive either and adequate for home shop use. Mine is Vertex brand, there are many others.
?
Not sure where you are but on UK Ebay there are often smaller quality dividing heads from Senior, Elliot etc look for a 4" size.
This reminds me of my first time buying a dividing head. I had no concept of size, so I purchase a BS-1?head.?
Let me tell you, just loading it in the truck was an effort. It weighed about 100-110 pounds and I am not including the weight of the plates and sector handle, which added another 10-20 pounds to the whole thing.?
Needless to say, my milling machine was only slightly larger than the dividing head, so after holding on to it for about a year, I ended up selling it for about half the price i paid for, just to get my space back in the shop.?
Thanks for the responses. I am fully aware that this is comically large for an FB2, as I already said. I just wasn't quite understanding how big it was until I got it home. I'm also aware of the rotary tables available, this just happened to be a good
deal nearby my home.?
?
I have a friend with a Bridgeport who might take this one off my hands.?
?
John, you may have already seen this, but Artisan Makes, on YouTube, did a kind of universal head adaptation using a small dividing head: https://youtu.be/AJBVUpBHdmA. That might be of interest.?
Thanks for the responses. I am fully aware that this is comically large for an FB2, as I already said. I just wasn't quite understanding how big it was until I got it home. I'm also aware of the rotary tables available, this just happened to be a good
deal nearby my home.?
?
I have a friend with a Bridgeport who might take this one off my hands.?
?
John, you may have already seen this, but Artisan Makes, on YouTube, did a kind of universal head adaptation using a small dividing head: https://youtu.be/AJBVUpBHdmA. That might be of interest.?
Thanks for the responses. I am fully aware that this is comically large for an FB2, as I already said. I just wasn't quite understanding how big it was until I got it home. I'm also aware of the rotary tables available, this just happened to be a good deal nearby my home.?
?
I have a friend with a Bridgeport who might take this one off my hands.?
?
John, you may have already seen this, but Artisan Makes, on YouTube, did a kind of universal head adaptation using a small dividing head: https://youtu.be/AJBVUpBHdmA. That might be of interest.?
I have the same problem with the headstock gears and will machine new ones out of Tufnol as it has already been purchased. The information I hope someone here can furnish me with is the type and size, specifications etc of the type of cutter I need to reproduce the gear profile.
?
Thanks in advance from New Zealand
?
Ian
On 31/03/2025 02:33 NZDT Ryan Harmon via groups.io <ryanjharmon1@...> wrote:
?
?
Hey Roman,
?
I used CA glue (aka super glue). One thing I will say about the original gears, when I was pressing them off of the splines it took a decent amount of force before I felt a pop, which I took as the glue breaking, and then they slid off quite easily. I'm thinking the originals had something much stronger than super glue.
?
Only time will tell how well this whole experiment will work, only way to find out though is to go use the lathe some more and see what happens ?
?
I will keep you all posted.
?
Ryan
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 12:24?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Rey, thanks for sharing your work on the gears, the gears look really good, I would like to ask you what kind of glue did you use to stick them to the original spline center? I am curious how the gears will behave under load, chipping, or fatigue from friction with a metal wheel and working in oil, I would see that as the second phase of this experiment, I will definitely keep my fingers crossed that everything works as it should. Best regards, Roman .
---------- P?vodní e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected] Datum: 29. 3. 2025 21:24:14
P?edmět: Re: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
Update time - the gears have been printed, lathe reassembled, and so far so good. After several weeks of not being able to use the lathe, it is finally back in good running order, this time with all of its speeds available.
?
With the enclosure, filament dehydrator, PEI sheets, larger nozzle, rain dance and a little prayer, I've finally got things printing good enough for the job.
?
There's still a bit of gunk that forms on the inner ring, which is unsightly, but that can be scraped off. The parts that I really care about for accuracy and smoothness, the teeth, seem to be all good. So at this point I decided to send it.
?
Everything pressed on very cleanly. I put a ring of CA glue around it just because, but it really does not feel like this is coming off (famous last words perhaps).
?
Final products here.
?
It's been a long saga, but if you missed the beginning, I actually have a brand new 56 tooth gear to put in the lathe, so I didn't need to print a replacement. This new one was invaluable however for determining proper dimensions. As far as I can tell there is just a bit of profile shift on these gears. Both of my gears were printed with a profile shift of 0.4 which gets me very very close to the dimensions of my originals.
?
It seems I've hit the limit for photo attachment size here, I'll send a few more in a followup
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 6:32?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
Trouble with silica gel based units is you still have to have a way to dry silica gel :) Depending on whether it has moisture indicator and what chemistry it's based on, some are supposedly safe to put in the oven, while others are not. I wouldn't put either one in the oven I use for food :)
?
I print PLA as-is and never had any serious issues re moisture, though I see people documenting their woes from time to time. I went through 2-3 spools of PLA I bought from some random guy who kept it in a garage (price was phenomenal). Since I didn't care I stuck it in my (decidedly huimid) garage. When I finally came to them (at that point 4-5 years old filament) it printed like a champ and these were open spools, no bag, no desiccant, nothing. I do notice however that old PLA spools I have (5y+)? tend to get super brittle. Think just short of almost uncooked spaghetti brittle. They print fine if they don't snap in the reverse bowden tube.
?
Regards
?
Vedran
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 3:14?PM Doug White via <gwhite=[email protected]> wrote:
I use a food dehydrator to dry out my filament & desiccant packs.? The BEST thing I've come across is the Stacker F-Box:
?
?
This allows you to keep your filament dry ON the printer.? Depending on how crazy life it, I can take a month or two to go through a roll of filament.? If it sat open on the printer, even with PLA, I would get lousy print quality by the end.? Nylon would probably go to hell a lot faster.? I have some small hygrometers from Amazon and a 3D printed bracket that goes inside:??
?
?
I've had a spool of PLA on the printer for a month, and it's still at 14% humidity.? Admittedly, it's winter, but I've seen similar results when the dehumidifier in my shop runs around 40%.
?
I can also take a filament roll off the printer and swap it out, dry box and all, and leave it in the F-Box.? It makes changing partial rolls of filament much easier
?
There are two catches:? 1) They aren't cheap (my wife is always looking for gift ideas, and is delighted to help me in this regard), and 2) Stacker no longer sells them.
?
Apparently, Stacker sold the product line to Printed Solid, and they should have received their first shipment of parts about now.? I sent PS an email, and they said they expect them to be available again around the end of April.
I have the same problem with the headstock gears and will machine new ones out of Tufnol as it has already been purchased. The information I hope someone here can furnish me with is the type and size, specifications etc of the type of cutter I need to reproduce the gear profile.
On 31/03/2025 02:33 NZDT Ryan Harmon via groups.io <ryanjharmon1@...> wrote:
?
?
Hey Roman,
?
I used CA glue (aka super glue). One thing I will say about the original gears, when I was pressing them off of the splines it took a decent amount of force before I felt a pop, which I took as the glue breaking, and then they slid off quite easily. I'm thinking the originals had something much stronger than super glue.
?
Only time will tell how well this whole experiment will work, only way to find out though is to go use the lathe some more and see what happens ?
?
I will keep you all posted.
?
Ryan
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 12:24?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Rey, thanks for sharing your work on the gears, the gears look really good, I would like to ask you what kind of glue did you use to stick them to the original spline center? I am curious how the gears will behave under load, chipping, or fatigue from friction with a metal wheel and working in oil, I would see that as the second phase of this experiment, I will definitely keep my fingers crossed that everything works as it should. Best regards, Roman .
---------- P?vodní e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected] Datum: 29. 3. 2025 21:24:14
P?edmět: Re: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
Update time - the gears have been printed, lathe reassembled, and so far so good. After several weeks of not being able to use the lathe, it is finally back in good running order, this time with all of its speeds available.
?
With the enclosure, filament dehydrator, PEI sheets, larger nozzle, rain dance and a little prayer, I've finally got things printing good enough for the job.
?
There's still a bit of gunk that forms on the inner ring, which is unsightly, but that can be scraped off. The parts that I really care about for accuracy and smoothness, the teeth, seem to be all good. So at this point I decided to send it.
?
Everything pressed on very cleanly. I put a ring of CA glue around it just because, but it really does not feel like this is coming off (famous last words perhaps).
?
Final products here.
?
It's been a long saga, but if you missed the beginning, I actually have a brand new 56 tooth gear to put in the lathe, so I didn't need to print a replacement. This new one was invaluable however for determining proper dimensions. As far as I can tell there is just a bit of profile shift on these gears. Both of my gears were printed with a profile shift of 0.4 which gets me very very close to the dimensions of my originals.
?
It seems I've hit the limit for photo attachment size here, I'll send a few more in a followup
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 6:32?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
Trouble with silica gel based units is you still have to have a way to dry silica gel :) Depending on whether it has moisture indicator and what chemistry it's based on, some are supposedly safe to put in the oven, while others are not. I wouldn't put either one in the oven I use for food :)
?
I print PLA as-is and never had any serious issues re moisture, though I see people documenting their woes from time to time. I went through 2-3 spools of PLA I bought from some random guy who kept it in a garage (price was phenomenal). Since I didn't care I stuck it in my (decidedly huimid) garage. When I finally came to them (at that point 4-5 years old filament) it printed like a champ and these were open spools, no bag, no desiccant, nothing. I do notice however that old PLA spools I have (5y+)? tend to get super brittle. Think just short of almost uncooked spaghetti brittle. They print fine if they don't snap in the reverse bowden tube.
?
Regards
?
Vedran
On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 3:14?PM Doug White via <gwhite=[email protected]> wrote:
I use a food dehydrator to dry out my filament & desiccant packs.? The BEST thing I've come across is the Stacker F-Box:
?
?
This allows you to keep your filament dry ON the printer.? Depending on how crazy life it, I can take a month or two to go through a roll of filament.? If it sat open on the printer, even with PLA, I would get lousy print quality by the end.? Nylon would probably go to hell a lot faster.? I have some small hygrometers from Amazon and a 3D printed bracket that goes inside:??
?
?
I've had a spool of PLA on the printer for a month, and it's still at 14% humidity.? Admittedly, it's winter, but I've seen similar results when the dehumidifier in my shop runs around 40%.
?
I can also take a filament roll off the printer and swap it out, dry box and all, and leave it in the F-Box.? It makes changing partial rolls of filament much easier
?
There are two catches:? 1) They aren't cheap (my wife is always looking for gift ideas, and is delighted to help me in this regard), and 2) Stacker no longer sells them.
?
Apparently, Stacker sold the product line to Printed Solid, and they should have received their first shipment of parts about now.? I sent PS an email, and they said they expect them to be available again around the end of April.
I recently bought myself a 5" Elliott dividing head, but it was only when I got it home that I realised that it's almost comically large on the FB2 mill. I haven't been able to find a maximum table weight in the manual, but at 55kg, it feels near the limit.?
?
Does anyone else have experience or insight that might be helpful?
?
Here's a picture of the dividing head on the mill (at the centre of the unit, so as not to stress the castings) with the head raised to the maximum height.
I think the smallest dividing head you can buy is a BS 0 (that is zero, not O) and it weighs 48.5 pounds, without a chuck.?
If you need to go smaller, you have to get one of the dividers that are not dividing heads. Something like the Hardinge collet indexer. This will limit you to using 5c collets to hold your work.?
It cannot use a chuck, except those small chucks that have a 5c collet mount in the back. The advantage is that it is small and light.
I recently bought myself a 5" Elliott dividing head, but it was only when I got it home that I realised that it's almost comically large on the FB2 mill. I haven't been able to find a maximum table weight in the manual, but at 55kg,
it feels near the limit.?
?
Does anyone else have experience or insight that might be helpful?
?
Here's a picture of the dividing head on the mill (at the centre of the unit, so as not to stress the castings) with the head raised to the maximum height.
You have a universal dividing head which is designed to be connected to the lead screw of the milling table so that it rotates as the table traverses as well as dividing. You cut spirals eg reamers with it.
You need a set of change gears and a quadrant.
It's designed for a large milling machine.
I have a BS0 dividing head and I am cautious not to let it hang unsupported too far on my FB2.
That works fine but I would like a universal head but they don't make a small one!
A BS3 is a universal head and you can search for instructions to see how it works. A very capable accessory.
Jay
Looks like you exceeded the work envelope on your FB2.
I don't see how you would use that in any way.
James
USA
On 4/2/25 2:11 PM, Jay via groups.io wrote:
> I recently bought myself a 5" Elliott dividing head, but it was only
> when I got it home that I realised that it's almost comically large on
> the FB2 mill. I haven't been able to find a maximum table weight in the
> manual, but at 55kg, it feels near the limit.
> Does anyone else have experience or insight that might be helpful?
> Here's a picture of the dividing head on the mill (at the centre of the
> unit, so as not to stress the castings) with the head raised to the
> maximum height.
> Jay
>
I recently bought myself a 5" Elliott dividing head, but it was only when I got it home that I realised that it's almost comically large on the FB2 mill. I haven't been able to find a maximum table weight in the manual, but at 55kg, it feels near the limit. Does anyone else have experience or insight that might be helpful? Here's a picture of the dividing head on the mill (at the centre of the unit, so as not to stress the castings) with the head raised to the maximum height. Jay
ryantim56
Jay
