Thanks! I would love to do a video on this, but I have no editing experience, so one step at a time.

I actually didn't know that about nylon and glue, thanks for the heads up.?

I'm not even sure how much it is needed, but I came across this guy selling printed gears for FB-2 mills on ebay:

He recommends using a bead of CA glue before pressing on the gear and notes it is not as much as a press fit.

I can't imagine CA is providing a ton of strength here, but this guy is recommending it and claims to have had success with a bunch of people.

Maybe a bit of epoxy would work better for the nylon?

On Fri, Mar 21, 2025 at 3:53?AM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:

This is phenomenal, publishing this on youtube or printables or some such place would be quite useful to the community at large.

Regards glueing, remember that Nylon won't stick to most glues

Regards

Vedran

On Fri, Mar 21, 2025 at 2:31?AM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:

Time for an update, I think I've made some good progress and maybe selected my final material.

For my testing, I cobbled together a little rig out of scrap in the garage and a mod 1.5 spur gear I ordered from Amazon. The spur gear has a bar of aluminum pinned to it as a lever and can rotate freely, while the Emco gear or 3D printed gear is pinned in place. I have a bucket on the end of the aluminum bar that I add weights to until a tooth finally snaps.

Here's the setup testing the original gears

Here's what it looks like for the 3D printed versions

It's maybe not the most scientific, I wouldn't trust the absolute numbers I'm getting, but I think for a (relatively) consistent comparison, it does the job just fine. I'm using barbell weights to load it up, I have ones as small as 1.25 lbs (.5 kg) up to 10 lbs (4.5 kg). I basically stepped up the weights in increments of 1.25 lbs, which involves a lot of switching out small plates for heavier ones. Since this probably introduces some fatigue, once I've got an initial breaking number, I'll rerun the test starting just below the break point and only add more weight. This has consistently given slightly higher results.

For starters the tufnol was, as the name suggests, quite tough. It really surprised me how much force it took to break, I ended up loading 52.5 lbs (23.8 kg) of weight before it snapped. The break was quite violent as the teeth snapped off very suddenly, no give before that. When I reran the test without any fatigue it got up to 56.25 lbs (25.5 kg).

I started my 3D printed tests with some PLA, as I have plenty and I could work out the kinks before moving on to the other materials. The first test revealed a very critical piece of 3D printing gears, which I learned from one of the youtube videos I watched on the gear tests. The default slicer settings put two perimeter walls on your print, and does infill for the rest. I've highlighted some of the walls in red below so you can see what I mean. My PLA, with 100% infill but just two perimeter walls, failed at 10 lbs (4.5 kg). At this point I was worried the whole thing was going to be pointless, if these gears were just a small fraction of the strength of tufnol it might just break during normal use and put me right back to where I started.

Luckily, reprinting with five walls, gave much better results, with PLA standing up to almost 25 lbs (11.3 kg)

Ultimately, my best result came from a type of nylon, which held up to 52.5 lbs (23.8 kg) putting it just shy of the max I was able to load on the original gears.

My polycarbonate, for whatever reason, just did not perform as well as I hoped. I consistently only got around 35 lbs, well shy of the originals. It also ended up being much more of a pain to print, so I think I've made my decision to go with nylon.

Here is the actual brand:

Screenshots for future ref

A lot of marketing material here, but at least the claims make it sound perfect for the application at hand, and it seemed to stand up to the test.

Anyway, next step is to actually press the old gear off the hub and press/glue this one on. I want to rerun the test with the printed gear on the actual hub, just to make sure it's going to stay put and see if I get the same strength numbers since this setup is a bit different than what I was testing before.

I should have some time to do that this weekend, and if all goes well I might just have a running lathe again ?

On Mon, Mar 17, 2025 at 12:50?PM JM Rall via <=[email protected]> wrote:

Look like emcoshop in Austria advertised the gears made in small batches from time to time. Once you add shipping cost would probably be North of? $400 .

If you went ahead and made a couple You would probably be able to sell some on EBay / Facebook Marketplace

?

?

I'm looking to change the lead screw for the cross slide so that I can put a longer lead screw on for a wild hare brained operation that I need to do on the lathe.? I just thought I would ask the group here if there were any reason not to drill this hole through.? When I get this working, I'll post some pictures for your amusement, but in the mean time I just thought it slightly prudent to ask the group if they new any reason I shouldn't drill the hole all the way through...? Any comments are greatly welcomed and appreciated :).? Thanks!

This is phenomenal, publishing this on youtube or printables or some such place would be quite useful to the community at large.

Regards glueing, remember that Nylon won't stick to most glues

Regards

Vedran

On Fri, Mar 21, 2025 at 2:31?AM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:

Time for an update, I think I've made some good progress and maybe selected my final material.

For my testing, I cobbled together a little rig out of scrap in the garage and a mod 1.5 spur gear I ordered from Amazon. The spur gear has a bar of aluminum pinned to it as a lever and can rotate freely, while the Emco gear or 3D printed gear is pinned in place. I have a bucket on the end of the aluminum bar that I add weights to until a tooth finally snaps.

Here's the setup testing the original gears

Here's what it looks like for the 3D printed versions

It's maybe not the most scientific, I wouldn't trust the absolute numbers I'm getting, but I think for a (relatively) consistent comparison, it does the job just fine. I'm using barbell weights to load it up, I have ones as small as 1.25 lbs (.5 kg) up to 10 lbs (4.5 kg). I basically stepped up the weights in increments of 1.25 lbs, which involves a lot of switching out small plates for heavier ones. Since this probably introduces some fatigue, once I've got an initial breaking number, I'll rerun the test starting just below the break point and only add more weight. This has consistently given slightly higher results.

For starters the tufnol was, as the name suggests, quite tough. It really surprised me how much force it took to break, I ended up loading 52.5 lbs (23.8 kg) of weight before it snapped. The break was quite violent as the teeth snapped off very suddenly, no give before that. When I reran the test without any fatigue it got up to 56.25 lbs (25.5 kg).

I started my 3D printed tests with some PLA, as I have plenty and I could work out the kinks before moving on to the other materials. The first test revealed a very critical piece of 3D printing gears, which I learned from one of the youtube videos I watched on the gear tests. The default slicer settings put two perimeter walls on your print, and does infill for the rest. I've highlighted some of the walls in red below so you can see what I mean. My PLA, with 100% infill but just two perimeter walls, failed at 10 lbs (4.5 kg). At this point I was worried the whole thing was going to be pointless, if these gears were just a small fraction of the strength of tufnol it might just break during normal use and put me right back to where I started.

Luckily, reprinting with five walls, gave much better results, with PLA standing up to almost 25 lbs (11.3 kg)

Ultimately, my best result came from a type of nylon, which held up to 52.5 lbs (23.8 kg) putting it just shy of the max I was able to load on the original gears.

My polycarbonate, for whatever reason, just did not perform as well as I hoped. I consistently only got around 35 lbs, well shy of the originals. It also ended up being much more of a pain to print, so I think I've made my decision to go with nylon.

Here is the actual brand:

Screenshots for future ref

A lot of marketing material here, but at least the claims make it sound perfect for the application at hand, and it seemed to stand up to the test.

Anyway, next step is to actually press the old gear off the hub and press/glue this one on. I want to rerun the test with the printed gear on the actual hub, just to make sure it's going to stay put and see if I get the same strength numbers since this setup is a bit different than what I was testing before.

I should have some time to do that this weekend, and if all goes well I might just have a running lathe again ?

On Mon, Mar 17, 2025 at 12:50?PM JM Rall via <=[email protected]> wrote:

Look like emcoshop in Austria advertised the gears made in small batches from time to time. Once you add shipping cost would probably be North of? $400 .

If you went ahead and made a couple You would probably be able to sell some on EBay / Facebook Marketplace

?

?

hello jay, i ran my s11 3ph lathe from an inverter and i believe the spikes generated by the 3 phase process were enough to overcome the insulation resistance of the windings causing a short circuit (happened on 2 motors). I put a sine filter between the vfd and the motor on my 3rd attempt!

regards

carl

uk

On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 at 07:19, Jay via <erik_=[email protected]> wrote:

Hi All,?

?

I have just bagged myself an FB2 Mill, seemingly in pretty good condition, from a workshop clearance. It has the Emco power feed on the x-axis, and both motors are 400V 3 phase.

?

My plan is to reconfigure the motors from Star to Delta and run them on a VFD, but I have a few questions which I hope that people here can help with.

?

1. The motor info plate only states that it's 400v, but all 6 terminals are exposed in the junction box, using a star configuration. Is there anything that I should worry about when changing to Delta configuration? My research says that it should be fine.?

?

2. I've done some reading and found that there are some risks of destroying old motors by using a VFD. A lot of what I've read suggests that the risk is minimised by using a short cable between the VFD and the motor, and by not changing the carrier frequency (and accepting the high pitch whine from the motor). Does anyone have any insights into using a VFD on an FB2, or old motors in general?

?

3. If I do end up destroying the 3 phase motors, are they simple enough to replace with a modern motor??

?

4. (Bonus question) Why did Emco ship these units with such a low power motor? Every mini mill now seems to have 3 or 4 times the power of this one. Is it just that motors have become cheaper since Emco made these?

?

Hopefully that's not too much for a single post!

?

Thanks

Jay

Time for an update, I think I've made some good progress and maybe selected my final material.

For my testing, I cobbled together a little rig out of scrap in the garage and a mod 1.5 spur gear I ordered from Amazon. The spur gear has a bar of aluminum pinned to it as a lever and can rotate freely, while the Emco gear or 3D printed gear is pinned in place. I have a bucket on the end of the aluminum bar that I add weights to until a tooth finally snaps.

Here's the setup testing the original gears

Here's what it looks like for the 3D printed versions

It's maybe not the most scientific, I wouldn't trust the absolute numbers I'm getting, but I think for a (relatively) consistent comparison, it does the job just fine. I'm using barbell weights to load it up, I have ones as small as 1.25 lbs (.5 kg) up to 10 lbs (4.5 kg). I basically stepped up the weights in increments of 1.25 lbs, which involves a lot of switching out small plates for heavier ones. Since this probably introduces some fatigue, once I've got an initial breaking number, I'll rerun the test starting just below the break point and only add more weight. This has consistently given slightly higher results.

For starters the tufnol was, as the name suggests, quite tough. It really surprised me how much force it took to break, I ended up loading 52.5 lbs (23.8 kg) of weight before it snapped. The break was quite violent as the teeth snapped off very suddenly, no give before that. When I reran the test without any fatigue it got up to 56.25 lbs (25.5 kg).

I started my 3D printed tests with some PLA, as I have plenty and I could work out the kinks before moving on to the other materials. The first test revealed a very critical piece of 3D printing gears, which I learned from one of the youtube videos I watched on the gear tests. The default slicer settings put two perimeter walls on your print, and does infill for the rest. I've highlighted some of the walls in red below so you can see what I mean. My PLA, with 100% infill but just two perimeter walls, failed at 10 lbs (4.5 kg). At this point I was worried the whole thing was going to be pointless, if these gears were just a small fraction of the strength of tufnol it might just break during normal use and put me right back to where I started.

Luckily, reprinting with five walls, gave much better results, with PLA standing up to almost 25 lbs (11.3 kg)

Ultimately, my best result came from a type of nylon, which held up to 52.5 lbs (23.8 kg) putting it just shy of the max I was able to load on the original gears.

My polycarbonate, for whatever reason, just did not perform as well as I hoped. I consistently only got around 35 lbs, well shy of the originals. It also ended up being much more of a pain to print, so I think I've made my decision to go with nylon.

Here is the actual brand:

Screenshots for future ref

A lot of marketing material here, but at least the claims make it sound perfect for the application at hand, and it seemed to stand up to the test.

Anyway, next step is to actually press the old gear off the hub and press/glue this one on. I want to rerun the test with the printed gear on the actual hub, just to make sure it's going to stay put and see if I get the same strength numbers since this setup is a bit different than what I was testing before.

I should have some time to do that this weekend, and if all goes well I might just have a running lathe again ?

On Mon, Mar 17, 2025 at 12:50?PM JM Rall via <=[email protected]> wrote:

Look like emcoshop in Austria advertised the gears made in small batches from time to time. Once you add shipping cost would probably be North of? $400 .

If you went ahead and made a couple You would probably be able to sell some on EBay / Facebook Marketplace

?

?

Hi All,?

?

I have just bagged myself an FB2 Mill, seemingly in pretty good condition, from a workshop clearance. It has the Emco power feed on the x-axis, and both motors are 400V 3 phase.

?

My plan is to reconfigure the motors from Star to Delta and run them on a VFD, but I have a few questions which I hope that people here can help with.

?

1. The motor info plate only states that it's 400v, but all 6 terminals are exposed in the junction box, using a star configuration. Is there anything that I should worry about when changing to Delta configuration? My research says that it should be fine.?

?

2. I've done some reading and found that there are some risks of destroying old motors by using a VFD. A lot of what I've read suggests that the risk is minimised by using a short cable between the VFD and the motor, and by not changing the carrier frequency (and accepting the high pitch whine from the motor). Does anyone have any insights into using a VFD on an FB2, or old motors in general?

?

3. If I do end up destroying the 3 phase motors, are they simple enough to replace with a modern motor??

?

4. (Bonus question) Why did Emco ship these units with such a low power motor? Every mini mill now seems to have 3 or 4 times the power of this one. Is it just that motors have become cheaper since Emco made these?

?

Hopefully that's not too much for a single post!

?

Thanks

Jay

Look like emcoshop in Austria advertised the gears made in small batches from time to time. Once you add shipping cost would probably be North of? $400 .

If you went ahead and made a couple You would probably be able to sell some on EBay / Facebook Marketplace

?

?

Hi group,

I have a set of 12 change gears for Emco lathes. They fit several models: it think they can be used on lathes from Compact 5 to Compact 10. They came with a lathe I bought and I never used them as I have another working set. They look completely unused.

They are Modulus 1 gears. They are 8mm thick and have a 14mm bore with a 4mm key. The set weighs 5kg (close to 11 pounds)

The gears have 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, and 80 teeth.?

I will upload pics shortly.

The asking price is $175 plus actual shipping to wherever you are located.?

Best Regards,

Andrei

mailto:calciu1@...
?
?

Mr. Pete printed change gears, not headstock.?

Get

---

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2025 5:37:20 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement

?

I doubt PLA would work in headstock. It get's a bit hot in there and PLA goes soft and melty at very low temperatures. In applications where you can keep gears at room temp PLA would work fine.One thing to keep in mind is not all PLAsw are made equal. Properties vary not only with brand but with color as well, not to mention age, print temperatures, cooling etc. All the old PLA I have lying around is brittle like spaghetti, to the point where it will happily break in the reverse bowden before it even gets to the extruder. I can't say I noticed the same with printed parts of the same vintage, but I guess it's a function of thickness. PLA is supposed to get hydrolyzed over time from absorbed moisture.

I also had Delrin part (turned from proper stock, not printed) go from a loose slip fit to light interference fit after a couple of sailing sessions. It was immersed about 10 times for a few hours at the time over a month and Delrin is supposed to be very moisture resistant. I dunno if you'd get a similar effect with headstock oil, but you can imagine what would happen if your printed gear grew even 0,05-0,1mm in diameter. Testing oil immersion with different materials might not be a bad idea, but who has time for that.

I found a Maker muse video yesterday and he had two different PLA filaments perform best and worst of about 10 different filaments he tested. Numbers don't mean much in this case but he got 5-6Nm out of one PLA and 14-17Nm out of the other, with other filaments somewhere in that range.

Regards

Vedran

On Sat, Mar 15, 2025 at 12:04?AM Andrei via <calciu1=[email protected]> wrote:

PLA gears are good enough for years of service.?

Mr. Pete printed gears for his Logan or maybe South bend and after a year they were still good.

Use 100% infil to avoid chipped teeth.

Get

---

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2025 6:54:11 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement

?

PC is generally PITA to print, fumes are definitely not something you want to breathe, material is expensive and often glass or carbon filled. Other than that it's high temp and should be pretty tough. Definitely google a bit on oil compatibility and using it for gears to be on the safe side.

Regards

Vedran

On Fri, Mar 14, 2025 at 7:17?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:

Hey all,

I've had a busy week so no chance to work on this project much.

I have watched a few videos in the meantime where people have strength tested different 3d printed materials in a geared application. Curious if anyone has any reasons not to consider polycarbonate as a candidate for this application?

I'm considering building a test fixture and running a stress test to break one of the tufnol gears, followed by a few different 3d printed materials (nylon, petg, polycarb). At least then I have a relative idea of how weak my replacement gear is and maybe save some heartache in the future if it's not going to cut it.

Thoughts?

On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 3:56?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:

You usually want 0.1 - 0.15mm backlash in Fusion generator to get smoothly running gear pairs. Also consider not pressing the old gear off but turning or better milling it off in hex or splined shape. It'll be a lot easier to securely fit a 3D printed replacement that way.

Regards

Vedran

On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 6:33?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:

Results from my initial go, here's the settings I used for the fusion 360 script to generate the gear

Just a little template to check the teeth

I got out the macro lens for my camera to get some close-ups. The filament I used for this test was some old PLA so it's a bit stringy, I will probably buy a new spool of nylon or petg for the actual print, but this stuff works for figuring out fit.

Pretty decent, it seems like the actual gear teeth are just a bit more peaked. I'm going to play around with some of the other script parameters to see if I can get a closer profile. And once I get the old gear pressed off and can take some measurements on the tapered hub I'll do a few more test prints to get the right dimensions for a good press fit. 3D printing is a slow process, but it does make trial and error like this a breeze.

On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 10:39?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:

Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .

For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .

good luck Roman

---------- P?vodní e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected]
Datum: 10. 3. 2025 13:21:47
P?edmět: Re: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement

Thanks for the help all.

I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)

@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until I think it matches spot on.

I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.

On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:

Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman
---------- P?vodní e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected]
Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39
P?edmět: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement

Hi everyone,

?

Followup from my post here on my recently acquired V10P: /g/emcoV10lathe/topic/advice_on_purchasing_this/111150572

?

I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.

?

Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:

?

Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.

If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.

?

Here's my options:

1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea

2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement

3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.

4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D

?

Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.