I've been running the machine on those capacitors for a month or so now, and it's been performing well. Both motors seem to be perfectly happy without the starter cap, other than the spindle in highest gear with a heavy keyless drill chuck. With a collet chuck it will get up to speed, albeit over a period of 2 or 3 seconds, but the drill chuck is just too much for it without a starter cap.
?
Most of my electrical experience is simple mains hookups, or low voltage microcontroller circuitry, so I'm not sure of the best way to disconnect the starter cap after a set time. My best idea so far is to add a 240V AC to 5V DC converter and connect it to a relay with another capacitor, tuned to delay the relay disconnecting the starter cap. I'm not totally sure if that would need a huge cap for the delay needed though. That would take some reading and experimentation.
?
I had hoped to find a slow-pickup relay, but I haven't been able to find any. I probably just don't know the correct search terms.
?
Does anyone have a good idea of how to wire the starter cap so that it disconnects after 1-2 seconds?
I've been running the machine on those capacitors for a month or so now, and it's been performing well. Both motors seem to be perfectly happy without the starter cap, other than the spindle in highest gear with a heavy keyless drill chuck. With a collet chuck it will get up to speed, albeit over a period of 2 or 3 seconds, but the drill chuck is just too much for it without a starter cap.
?
Most of my electrical experience is simple mains hookups, or low voltage microcontroller circuitry, so I'm not sure of the best way to disconnect the starter cap after a set time. My best idea so far is to add a 240V AC to 5V DC converter and connect it to a relay with another capacitor, tuned to delay the relay disconnecting the starter cap. I'm not totally sure if that would need a huge cap for the delay needed though. That would take some reading and experimentation.
?
I had hoped to find a slow-pickup relay, but I haven't been able to find any. I probably just don't know the correct search terms.
?
Does anyone have a good idea of how to wire the starter cap so that it disconnects after 1-2 seconds?
I purchased a 6-jaw Sanou chuck and I disassembled it for cleaning. It was clean inside and lubricated. I squirted some extra oil here and there to justify my opening it and that was that.?
Of course, your mileage may vary, and with any chuck, I would open it up anyway, just to be on the safe side.?
The one thing I hated was that stupid chuck key that came with a spring. I ripped off the spring and threw it away. I acknowledge the safety factor that comes with the spring, but I just did not like it in my shop.?
IF you decide to go for the Sanou, be prepared to strip it down
completely as soom as you receive it and do some cleaning up and
deburring (mine had bits of swarf falling out of it and the mechanism
was graunchy when I got it) - one clean and deburr on te gear parts and
reassembly with a good grease and it's sweet now. Doean't get a huge
amount of use as it's on the dividing head but the work on it was
definitely necessary. Whether the supply chain has cleaned up (pun
intended) it's act and strip and reassembly is no longer necessary will
wait to be seen. I don't have any experience with Indexa chucks so can't
comment.
The chuck on my V10P is one of the reversible jaw types from Bison and
although it wasn't cheap it's never given me any cause to doubt it.
(it's actually moved over from my original V10 to the V10P since I'll be
trying to get the V10 up and ready for sale in a few months).
Tim
On 03/05/2025 18:33, teamricky.m via groups.io wrote:
> Yes I’m happy with 2MT ?:)
> compared to what I’m used to it generally has a heap more rigidity!
> I’ve ordered 3 different types of back plate to mount the chucks I would
> like to run …
> Collet chuck with pass through
> 3 jaw
> 4 jaw independent
> I have just gone through the chuck that came with the lathe and it’s
> probably at the end of its life , The back plate for it is only 1/4”
> flange so not the best.
> The chuck is a 4” Bernard grip true
> its been installed badly from day one with no way to tighten the
> intermediate screws therefore the 3 taper pin adjustment screws have
> chewed up the intermediate plate and chuck pretty badly
> It was missing one main mount screw
> The jaws were bell mouthed
> The jaws do not grip parallel to the ways
> So a re grind definitely needed but I’m not prepared to set up for a
> tool post grinder vs the cost of a good replacement on a thicker back
> plate !
> Im looking at a Sanou k31 100 - 125 mm
> or Indexa 125mm front mount with independently adjustable jaws (same out
> come and concept of the old chuck)
> Ricky
>
IF you decide to go for the Sanou, be prepared to strip it down completely as soom as you receive it and do some cleaning up and deburring (mine had bits of swarf falling out of it and the mechanism was graunchy when I got it) - one clean and deburr on te gear parts and reassembly with a good grease and it's sweet now. Doean't get a huge amount of use as it's on the dividing head but the work on it was definitely necessary. Whether the supply chain has cleaned up (pun intended) it's act and strip and reassembly is no longer necessary will wait to be seen. I don't have any experience with Indexa chucks so can't comment.
The chuck on my V10P is one of the reversible jaw types from Bison and although it wasn't cheap it's never given me any cause to doubt it. (it's actually moved over from my original V10 to the V10P since I'll be trying to get the V10 up and ready for sale in a few months).
On 03/05/2025 18:33, teamricky.m via groups.io wrote:
Yes I’m happy with 2MT ?:) compared to what I’m used to it generally has a heap more rigidity! I’ve ordered 3 different types of back plate to mount the chucks I would like to run … Collet chuck with pass through 3 jaw 4 jaw independent I have just gone through the chuck that came with the lathe and it’s probably at the end of its life , The back plate for it is only 1/4” flange so not the best. The chuck is a 4” Bernard grip true its been installed badly from day one with no way to tighten the intermediate screws therefore the 3 taper pin adjustment screws have chewed up the intermediate plate and chuck pretty badly It was missing one main mount screw The jaws were bell mouthed The jaws do not grip parallel to the ways So a re grind definitely needed but I’m not prepared to set up for a tool post grinder vs the cost of a good replacement on a thicker back plate ! Im looking at a Sanou k31 100 - 125 mm or Indexa 125mm front mount with independently adjustable jaws (same out come and concept of the old chuck) Ricky
Of course, these measurements are for the earlier METRIC version of the Maximat 7.? My 1967 IMPERIAL version of the Maximat 7 also had the smaller bore and an MT-2 socket, but has a spindle thread diameter of 1.5 inches by 8 TPI.?
?
Jerry F.
?
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of cwlathes via groups.io Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2025 1:19 PM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Spindle size and thread alien to manual
?
Hi Ricky
Up until November 1968 the Emcomat / Maximat 7 had a spindle thread of M33x3.5mm and a 16mm bore with MT-2 socket
This was subsequently changed to match the ones on the V10/P range
Regards,
Carvel
?
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of teamricky.m via groups.io Sent: Thursday, May 1, 2025 8:36 PM To:[email protected] Subject: [emcoV10lathe] Spindle size and thread alien to manual
?
Hello again gents ;)
?
Im not having much luck but enjoy a challenge!?
for some reason my spindle has a thread major diameter of 33mm…..
?
un clear on thread pitch !
?
has anyone else discovered a difference in size vs the manual?
compared to what I’m used to it generally has a heap more rigidity!
?
I’ve ordered 3 different types of back plate to mount the chucks I would like to run …
?
Collet chuck with pass through?
3 jaw?
4 jaw independent?
?
I have just gone through the chuck that came with the lathe and it’s probably at the end of its life , The back plate for it is only 1/4” flange so not the best.
?
The chuck is a 4” Bernard grip true
its been installed badly from day one with no way to tighten the intermediate screws therefore the 3 taper pin adjustment screws have chewed up the intermediate plate and chuck pretty badly?
?
It was missing one main mount screw
?
The jaws were bell mouthed
?
The jaws do not grip parallel to the ways
?
So a re grind definitely needed but I’m not prepared to set up for a tool post grinder vs the cost of a good replacement on a thicker back plate !
?
Im looking at a Sanou k31 100 - 125 mm
?
or Indexa 125mm front mount with independently adjustable jaws (same out come and concept of the old chuck)
Hi Ricky ,because you are happy with spindle bore MT2 you have now ,but if you any time looking for biger bore you replace your MT2 for MT3 diameter for bearings are same ,i did it in my lathe ,what is different is length of nose , longest is M39x4 , shorter is 1/2x8TPI and your is somewhere between?:-DB-)?
The lathe is a proper classic ! I have managed to find a good back plate which I need for a four jaw chuck …
?
sone of the ones out there say fir wood but they still look pretty good strength wise but I have asked the sellers if it’s ok for my application, Hopefully problem solved !
?
bonus here is the mill and geadstock share the same 2MT so I can interchange the relevant accessories….
Of course, these measurements are for the earlier METRIC version of the Maximat 7.? My 1967 IMPERIAL version of the Maximat 7 also had the smaller bore and an MT-2 socket, but has a spindle thread diameter of 1.5 inches by 8 TPI.?
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of cwlathes via groups.io Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2025 1:19 PM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Spindle size and thread alien to manual
?
Hi Ricky
Up until November 1968 the Emcomat / Maximat 7 had a spindle thread of M33x3.5mm and a 16mm bore with MT-2 socket
This was subsequently changed to match the ones on the V10/P range
Regards,
Carvel
?
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of teamricky.m via groups.io Sent: Thursday, May 1, 2025 8:36 PM To:[email protected] Subject: [emcoV10lathe] Spindle size and thread alien to manual
?
Hello again gents ;)
?
Im not having much luck but enjoy a challenge!?
for some reason my spindle has a thread major diameter of 33mm…..
?
un clear on thread pitch !
?
has anyone else discovered a difference in size vs the manual?
The lathe is a proper classic ! I have managed to find a good back plate which I need for a four jaw chuck …
?
sone of the ones out there say fir wood but they still look pretty good strength wise but I have asked the sellers if it’s ok for my application, Hopefully problem solved !
?
bonus here is the mill and geadstock share the same 2MT so I can interchange the relevant accessories….
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of teamricky.m via groups.io Sent: Thursday, May 1, 2025 8:36 PM To:[email protected] Subject: [emcoV10lathe] Spindle size and thread alien to manual
?
Hello again gents ;)
?
Im not having much luck but enjoy a challenge!?
for some reason my spindle has a thread major diameter of 33mm…..
?
un clear on thread pitch !
?
has anyone else discovered a difference in size vs the manual?
Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Maximat 7 mill head motor issues
Carvel, I checked my US motor and find no markings regarding the capacitor. However, I don't know if this will help (due to my being ill versed in electronics); but, I can get photos of the markings on the capacitor for my Maximat 7, if desired.
I added a 3-axis DRO many years ago and I could not imagine having to go back to the manual dials. In fact, the z-axis died on me so I ordered a replacement computer (I kept
the original glass scales and just matched the model of the DRO) and literally just installed it on Saturday. The original install took a while with quite a few custom fabricated brackets, but it was absolutely worth it IMO. The model I got was the GCS900-3D.
The original one I got from ebay, but the replacement one I got from Aliexpress (). They’re cheap Chinese quality, but the computer lasted
me for almost a decade and the scales are still perfect.
?
Here’s a blog with some Youtube videos I did way back when to document it. Hope this helps
what’s the opinions here on adding a Dro and which one ?
?
I have a small proxxon which I added a Dro to the carriage and simply used a good Dti behind the cross slide as a when needed , It works well especially for the milling attachment side of things …
?
Probably something better and easier to use would be good for a bigger lathe :)
what’s the opinions here on adding a Dro and which one ?
?
I have a small proxxon which I added a Dro to the carriage and simply used a good Dti behind the cross slide as a when needed , It works well especially for the milling attachment side of things …
?
Probably something better and easier to use would be good for a bigger lathe :)
Carvel, I checked my US motor and find no markings regarding the capacitor. However, I don't know if this will help (due to my being ill versed in electronics); but, I can get photos of the markings on the capacitor for my Maximat 7, if desired.
In this case this is a 240V 50Hz UK motor which is a 3 phase motor adapted for use on one phase with a capacitor
So it doesn’t have any capacitor value on the name plate as the Cap is not normally applicable
?
The US 60Hz motor is a two winding split phase motor so it might well be marked but I don’t have sight of one so maybe one of our US members can advise ?
The manual does come to our rescue though with 8uF for the UK 240V 50Hz motor and 20uF for the US 115V 60Hz motor ?
From:[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Vedran via groups.io Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2025 4:23 AM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [emcoV10lathe] Maximat 7 mill head motor issues
?
Single phase motors Emco used tend to have required capacitance printed on the nameplate so you can check that as well. One of the 4 wires should definitely be ground. If neither of the 4 has a continuity to the motor housing it was not rewired properly.
?
Regards
?
Vedran
?
?
On Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 10:07?PM cwlathes via <carvelw=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Rick
( and by the way please sign your posts so we know who you are ? )
If you look at the wiring diagram you will notice that this is actually a small 3 phase motor which is used on single phase by permanently supplying the 3rd phase via a capacitor to simulate the phase shift? . . .? so yes the Cap is permanently in circuit
Being basically 3 phase it lends itself to be being fed by a small vfd without the Cap , in which case apart from the variable speed it develops an additional 20% of power compared to the capacitor configuration
Single phase motors Emco used tend to have required capacitance printed on the nameplate so you can check that as well. One of the 4 wires should definitely be ground. If neither of the 4 has a continuity to the motor housing it was not rewired properly.
On Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 10:07?PM cwlathes via <carvelw=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Rick
( and by the way please sign your posts so we know who you are ? )
If you look at the wiring diagram you will notice that this is actually a small 3 phase motor which is used on single phase by permanently supplying the 3rd phase via a capacitor to simulate the phase shift? . . .? so yes the Cap is permanently in circuit
Being basically 3 phase it lends itself to be being fed by a small vfd without the Cap , in which case apart from the variable speed it develops an additional 20% of power compared to the capacitor configuration
Jay
Tim D Schomer
terry keeley