I doubt PLA would work in headstock. It get's a bit hot in there and PLA goes soft and melty at very low temperatures. In applications where you can keep gears at room temp PLA would work fine.One thing to keep in mind is not all PLAsw are made equal. Properties vary not only with brand but with color as well, not to mention age, print temperatures, cooling etc. All the old PLA I have lying around is brittle like spaghetti, to the point where it will happily break in the reverse bowden before it even gets to the extruder. I can't say I noticed the same with printed parts of the same vintage, but I guess it's a function of thickness. PLA is supposed to get hydrolyzed over time from absorbed moisture.
I also had Delrin part (turned from proper stock, not printed) go from a loose slip fit to light interference fit after a couple of sailing sessions. It was immersed about 10 times for a few hours at the time over a month and Delrin is supposed to be very moisture resistant. I dunno if you'd get a similar effect with headstock oil, but you can imagine what would happen if your printed gear grew even 0,05-0,1mm in diameter. Testing oil immersion with different materials might not be a bad idea, but who has time for that.
I found a Maker muse video yesterday and he had two different PLA filaments perform best and worst of about 10 different filaments he tested. Numbers don't mean much in this case but he got 5-6Nm out of one PLA and 14-17Nm out of the other, with other filaments somewhere in that range.
PC is generally PITA to print, fumes are definitely not something you want to breathe, material is expensive and often glass or carbon filled. Other than that it's high temp and should be pretty tough. Definitely google a bit on oil compatibility and using
it for gears to be on the safe side.
Regards
Vedran
On Fri, Mar 14, 2025 at 7:17?PM Ryan Harmon via
<ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Hey all,
I've had a busy week so no chance to work on this project much.
I have watched a few videos in the meantime where people have strength tested different 3d printed materials in a geared application. Curious if anyone has any reasons not to consider polycarbonate as a candidate for this application?
I'm considering building a test fixture and running a stress test to break one of the tufnol gears, followed by a few different 3d printed materials (nylon, petg, polycarb). At least then I have a relative idea of how weak my replacement gear is and maybe
save some heartache in the future if it's not going to cut it.
Thoughts?
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 3:56?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
You usually want 0.1 - 0.15mm backlash in Fusion generator to get smoothly running gear pairs. Also consider not pressing the old gear off but turning or better milling it off in hex or splined shape. It'll be a lot easier to securely fit a 3D printed
replacement that way.
Regards
Vedran
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 6:33?PM Ryan Harmon via
<ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Results from my initial go, here's the settings I used for the fusion 360 script to generate the gear
Just a little template to check the teeth
I got out the macro lens for my camera to get some close-ups. The filament I used for this test was some old PLA so it's a bit stringy, I will probably buy a new spool of nylon or petg for the actual print, but this stuff works for figuring out fit.
Pretty decent, it seems like the actual gear teeth are just a bit more peaked. I'm going to play around with some of the other script parameters to see if I can get a closer profile. And once I get the old gear pressed off and can take some measurements
on the tapered hub I'll do a few more test prints to get the right dimensions for a good press fit. 3D printing is a slow process, but it does make trial and error like this a breeze.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 10:39?AM roman fox via
<romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press
in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .
For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good
news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed
gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until
I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction
and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman
---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected]
Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39
P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for
any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for
replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running
again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10
. I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat
7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools,
I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
PC is generally PITA to print, fumes are definitely not something you want to breathe, material is expensive and often glass or carbon filled. Other than that it's high temp and should be pretty tough. Definitely google a bit on oil compatibility and using
it for gears to be on the safe side.
Regards
Vedran
On Fri, Mar 14, 2025 at 7:17?PM Ryan Harmon via
<ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Hey all,
I've had a busy week so no chance to work on this project much.
I have watched a few videos in the meantime where people have strength tested different 3d printed materials in a geared application. Curious if anyone has any reasons not to consider polycarbonate as a candidate for this application?
I'm considering building a test fixture and running a stress test to break one of the tufnol gears, followed by a few different 3d printed materials (nylon, petg, polycarb). At least then I have a relative idea of how weak my replacement gear is and maybe
save some heartache in the future if it's not going to cut it.
Thoughts?
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 3:56?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
You usually want 0.1 - 0.15mm backlash in Fusion generator to get smoothly running gear pairs. Also consider not pressing the old gear off but turning or better milling it off in hex or splined shape. It'll be a lot easier to securely fit a 3D printed
replacement that way.
Regards
Vedran
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 6:33?PM Ryan Harmon via
<ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Results from my initial go, here's the settings I used for the fusion 360 script to generate the gear
Just a little template to check the teeth
I got out the macro lens for my camera to get some close-ups. The filament I used for this test was some old PLA so it's a bit stringy, I will probably buy a new spool of nylon or petg for the actual print, but this stuff works for figuring out fit.
Pretty decent, it seems like the actual gear teeth are just a bit more peaked. I'm going to play around with some of the other script parameters to see if I can get a closer profile. And once I get the old gear pressed off and can take some measurements
on the tapered hub I'll do a few more test prints to get the right dimensions for a good press fit. 3D printing is a slow process, but it does make trial and error like this a breeze.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 10:39?AM roman fox via
<romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press
in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .
For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good
news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed
gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until
I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction
and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman
---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected]
Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39
P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for
any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for
replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running
again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10
. I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat
7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools,
I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
PC is generally PITA to print, fumes are definitely not something you want to breathe, material is expensive and often glass or carbon filled. Other than that it's high temp and should be pretty tough. Definitely google a bit on oil compatibility and using it for gears to be on the safe side.
On Fri, Mar 14, 2025 at 7:17?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Hey all,
I've had a busy week so no chance to work on this project much.
I have watched a few videos in the meantime where people have strength tested different 3d printed materials in a geared application. Curious if anyone has any reasons not to consider polycarbonate as a candidate for this application?
I'm considering building a test fixture and running a stress test to break one of the tufnol gears, followed by a few different 3d printed materials (nylon, petg, polycarb). At least then I have a relative idea of how weak my replacement gear is and maybe save some heartache in the future if it's not going to cut it.
Thoughts?
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 3:56?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
You usually want 0.1 - 0.15mm backlash in Fusion generator to get smoothly running gear pairs. Also consider not pressing the old gear off but turning or better milling it off in hex or splined shape. It'll be a lot easier to securely fit a 3D printed replacement that way.
Regards
Vedran
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 6:33?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Results from my initial go, here's the settings I used for the fusion 360 script to generate the gear
Just a little template to check the teeth
I got out the macro lens for my camera to get some close-ups. The filament I used for this test was some old PLA so it's a bit stringy, I will probably buy a new spool of nylon or petg for the actual print, but this stuff works for figuring out fit.
Pretty decent, it seems like the actual gear teeth are just a bit more peaked. I'm going to play around with some of the other script parameters to see if I can get a closer profile. And once I get the old gear pressed off and can take some measurements on the tapered hub I'll do a few more test prints to get the right dimensions for a good press fit. 3D printing is a slow process, but it does make trial and error like this a breeze.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 10:39?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .
For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39 P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
I like to tinker, I wouldn't be doing this otherwise. I've seen lots of people use 3D printed gears to replace parts in older lathes, it's a great way to keep a hobby machine running when they don't make them anymore.
Like I said - I'm wanting to make something myself rather than buy, and I've got no problem getting some other material and machining it. But searching the history of this group I've seen this question come up a few times and no one's given a good answer of whether or not it will work. People have raised concerns about abrasives in the material (so fiber glass impregnated is out) but that's about it.
If it ends up being a poor solution, everyone can link to this thread next time someone asks about 3D printing replacements and that will be my contribution to the group :)
On Fri, Mar 14, 2025 at 2:13?PM S Craig via <sdi=[email protected]> wrote:
hi Ryan.
?
my 2cents:
?
You seem to be proposing going to quite a bit of effort to 3D print your gear, perhaps more effort than making one (or having someone else do it) from Tufnol, a proven material. The primary shortcoming of non-metal gears is that they are prone to damage if the operator changes gear while in motion. It is hard to imagine that 3d plastic, or whatever sort, will be superior to tufnol. In the case of my machine, the tufnol gears have lasted 50 years and still going strong. Some other plastics, can be vulnerable to oil and/or moisture as well as having less favourable strength properties.
?
As I understand it, the concept of tufnol gears, rather than all metal, was motivated by noise-reduction/vibration, and possibly providing a 'weak link', albeit expensive in itself, but avoiding damage to the mating metal gears. While plastic technology in those days (1970's) was less advanced than it is today, tufnol (a fibre-reinforced plastic (epoxy or ureaformaldehyde? (thermosets)), has stood the test of time.
?
With tufnol, there is a choice of fibre reinforcement, eg. glass or cotton, possibly kevlar these days. Due to the abrasive nature of glass particles, my choice would be non-glass. There is also a choice of fibre-orientation, the preferred being woven fabric in the same plane as the gear body.
?
When machining tufnol, one needs to be aware the cuttings present a respiratory hazard, but quite manageable.
?
Granted, some of the teeth numbers of these gears are not necessarily straight forward to arrange on a typical dividing head, but perhaps one can use an electronic dividing head, or if farmed out might be machined by CNC anyway.
?
There is a cost to 'farming-out', but if you source the material, make the blanks and possibly supply arbours, you may be pleasantly surprised.
?
Lastly, apart from wasting effort because of short gear life, possible sudden failure of a 3D gear might cause damage to other components.
?
So, 2 questions if I may:
?
1) has anyone installed 3D gears and how long have they lasted ?
?
2) if you have a alternate reasoning, please enlighten me, after all, I probably come into the category of being quite old and not fully conversant with modern 'tech' to the extent young members might have....
?
all the best
Stuart, NZL
?
?
On 15/03/2025 07:13 NZDT Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
?
?
Hey all,
?
I've had a busy week so no chance to work on this project much.
?
I have watched a few videos in the meantime where people have strength tested different 3d printed materials in a geared application. Curious if anyone has any reasons not to consider polycarbonate as a candidate for this application?
?
I'm considering building a test fixture and running a stress test to break one of the tufnol gears, followed by a few different 3d printed materials (nylon, petg, polycarb). At least then I have a relative idea of how weak my replacement gear is and maybe save some heartache in the future if it's not going to cut it.
?
Thoughts?
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 3:56?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
You usually want 0.1 - 0.15mm backlash in Fusion generator to get smoothly running gear pairs. Also consider not pressing the old gear off but turning or better milling it off in hex or splined shape. It'll be a lot easier to securely fit a 3D printed replacement that way.
?
Regards
?
Vedran
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 6:33?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Results from my initial go, here's the settings I used for the fusion 360 script to generate the gear
Just a little template to check the teeth
?
I got out the macro lens for my camera to get some close-ups. The filament I used for this test was some old PLA so it's a bit stringy, I will probably buy a new spool of nylon or petg for the actual print, but this stuff works for figuring out fit.
Pretty decent, it seems like the actual gear teeth are just a bit more peaked. I'm going to play around with some of the other script parameters to see if I can get a closer profile. And once I get the old gear pressed off and can take some measurements on the tapered hub I'll do a few more test prints to get the right dimensions for a good press fit. 3D printing is a slow process, but it does make trial and error like this a breeze.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 10:39?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .
For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
?
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until I think it matches spot on.
?
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman
---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected] Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39
P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
You seem to be proposing going to quite a bit of effort to 3D print your gear, perhaps more effort than making one (or having someone else do it) from Tufnol, a proven material. The primary shortcoming of non-metal gears is that they are prone to damage if the operator changes gear while in motion. It is hard to imagine that 3d plastic, or whatever sort, will be superior to tufnol. In the case of my machine, the tufnol gears have lasted 50 years and still going strong. Some other plastics, can be vulnerable to oil and/or moisture as well as having less favourable strength properties.
?
As I understand it, the concept of tufnol gears, rather than all metal, was motivated by noise-reduction/vibration, and possibly providing a 'weak link', albeit expensive in itself, but avoiding damage to the mating metal gears. While plastic technology in those days (1970's) was less advanced than it is today, tufnol (a fibre-reinforced plastic (epoxy or ureaformaldehyde? (thermosets)), has stood the test of time.
?
With tufnol, there is a choice of fibre reinforcement, eg. glass or cotton, possibly kevlar these days. Due to the abrasive nature of glass particles, my choice would be non-glass. There is also a choice of fibre-orientation, the preferred being woven fabric in the same plane as the gear body.
?
When machining tufnol, one needs to be aware the cuttings present a respiratory hazard, but quite manageable.
?
Granted, some of the teeth numbers of these gears are not necessarily straight forward to arrange on a typical dividing head, but perhaps one can use an electronic dividing head, or if farmed out might be machined by CNC anyway.
?
There is a cost to 'farming-out', but if you source the material, make the blanks and possibly supply arbours, you may be pleasantly surprised.
?
Lastly, apart from wasting effort because of short gear life, possible sudden failure of a 3D gear might cause damage to other components.
?
So, 2 questions if I may:
?
1) has anyone installed 3D gears and how long have they lasted ?
?
2) if you have a alternate reasoning, please enlighten me, after all, I probably come into the category of being quite old and not fully conversant with modern 'tech' to the extent young members might have....
On 15/03/2025 07:13 NZDT Ryan Harmon via groups.io <ryanjharmon1@...> wrote:
?
?
Hey all,
?
I've had a busy week so no chance to work on this project much.
?
I have watched a few videos in the meantime where people have strength tested different 3d printed materials in a geared application. Curious if anyone has any reasons not to consider polycarbonate as a candidate for this application?
?
I'm considering building a test fixture and running a stress test to break one of the tufnol gears, followed by a few different 3d printed materials (nylon, petg, polycarb). At least then I have a relative idea of how weak my replacement gear is and maybe save some heartache in the future if it's not going to cut it.
?
Thoughts?
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 3:56?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
You usually want 0.1 - 0.15mm backlash in Fusion generator to get smoothly running gear pairs. Also consider not pressing the old gear off but turning or better milling it off in hex or splined shape. It'll be a lot easier to securely fit a 3D printed replacement that way.
?
Regards
?
Vedran
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 6:33?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Results from my initial go, here's the settings I used for the fusion 360 script to generate the gear
Just a little template to check the teeth
?
I got out the macro lens for my camera to get some close-ups. The filament I used for this test was some old PLA so it's a bit stringy, I will probably buy a new spool of nylon or petg for the actual print, but this stuff works for figuring out fit.
Pretty decent, it seems like the actual gear teeth are just a bit more peaked. I'm going to play around with some of the other script parameters to see if I can get a closer profile. And once I get the old gear pressed off and can take some measurements on the tapered hub I'll do a few more test prints to get the right dimensions for a good press fit. 3D printing is a slow process, but it does make trial and error like this a breeze.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 10:39?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .
For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
?
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until I think it matches spot on.
?
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman
---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected] Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39
P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
I've had a busy week so no chance to work on this project much.
I have watched a few videos in the meantime where people have strength tested different 3d printed materials in a geared application. Curious if anyone has any reasons not to consider polycarbonate as a candidate for this application?
I'm considering building a test fixture and running a stress test to break one of the tufnol gears, followed by a few different 3d printed materials (nylon, petg, polycarb). At least then I have a relative idea of how weak my replacement gear is and maybe save some heartache in the future if it's not going to cut it.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 3:56?PM Vedran via <vedran.groups=[email protected]> wrote:
You usually want 0.1 - 0.15mm backlash in Fusion generator to get smoothly running gear pairs. Also consider not pressing the old gear off but turning or better milling it off in hex or splined shape. It'll be a lot easier to securely fit a 3D printed replacement that way.
Regards
Vedran
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 6:33?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Results from my initial go, here's the settings I used for the fusion 360 script to generate the gear
Just a little template to check the teeth
I got out the macro lens for my camera to get some close-ups. The filament I used for this test was some old PLA so it's a bit stringy, I will probably buy a new spool of nylon or petg for the actual print, but this stuff works for figuring out fit.
Pretty decent, it seems like the actual gear teeth are just a bit more peaked. I'm going to play around with some of the other script parameters to see if I can get a closer profile. And once I get the old gear pressed off and can take some measurements on the tapered hub I'll do a few more test prints to get the right dimensions for a good press fit. 3D printing is a slow process, but it does make trial and error like this a breeze.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 10:39?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .
For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39 P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
You'd have to slit the sleeve at some point and then it wouldn't be press fitted any more, it would rely on glue to keep it in there... Brazing the thing in place would be better but could easily distort the thing beyond repair. I'd think about drilling 3 or 4 radial holes, threading them, making brass or bronze rods or soft steel screws and locktighting them in place. Then you could have a clamping ring around the perimeter, with the screws taking up the slack.... mind you, this is the first idea that came to my mind... it might be a terrible one :)
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 7:19?PM Joe Thomas via <jsthomas=[email protected]> wrote:
I have a question about tolerances when machining a new chuck back plate.
?
I recently purchased a Maximat V10P. It is in pretty good shape but only came with an EMCO three-jaw chuck that was missing the outside jaws. I'd like to have the option to use a four jaw chuck that I own, so I need to machine new back plate. The lathe has a 1.5"x8 spindle nose.
?
The previous owner gave me a 6" partially machined back plate that he never got around to mounting a chuck on. Here it is beside the OEM chuck.
?
?
The threads on this plate fit just fine, but I need to machine a clamping feature or risk having the chuck unscrew when decelerating or running in reverse.
?
Here is the problem: The shoulder behind the threads on my spindle nose has a diameter of 1.499". The mating diameter on the back plate measures 1.515". I don't have a lot of experience machining cast iron, but I suspect that this 0.016" difference is too big for a clamping feature to work. Even if I made generous relief cuts; the cast iron is just not flexible enough to close that big a gap.
?
I'm thinking of boring the back plate out a bit further (maybe 0.050" or so), fitting a steel sleeve (bonded in with some retaining compound) with an ID of perhaps 1.501", and then proceeding with creating the clamping features. Does that sound like a reasonable plan of attack?
?
I considered just using the back plate as is (with no clamping feature). I know some older US-made lathes do this, but after reading other threads on this forum I think it's probably better to be safe than sorry.
You usually want 0.1 - 0.15mm backlash in Fusion generator to get smoothly running gear pairs. Also consider not pressing the old gear off but turning or better milling it off in hex or splined shape. It'll be a lot easier to securely fit a 3D printed replacement that way.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 6:33?PM Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> wrote:
Results from my initial go, here's the settings I used for the fusion 360 script to generate the gear
Just a little template to check the teeth
I got out the macro lens for my camera to get some close-ups. The filament I used for this test was some old PLA so it's a bit stringy, I will probably buy a new spool of nylon or petg for the actual print, but this stuff works for figuring out fit.
Pretty decent, it seems like the actual gear teeth are just a bit more peaked. I'm going to play around with some of the other script parameters to see if I can get a closer profile. And once I get the old gear pressed off and can take some measurements on the tapered hub I'll do a few more test prints to get the right dimensions for a good press fit. 3D printing is a slow process, but it does make trial and error like this a breeze.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 10:39?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .
For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39 P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
You do not NEED the clamping ring. Screw-on chucks have been around for over 100 years and they are safe, if properly installed.
The main thing to do is not to take heavy cuts when running the lathe in reverse, and not to use a very aggressive braking setup on your VFD (if you have a VFD).
You do not NEED the clamping ring. Screw-on chucks have been around for over 100 years and they are safe, if properly installed.
The main thing to do is not to take heavy cuts when running the lathe in reverse, and not to use a very aggressive braking setup on your VFD (if you have a VFD).
You do not NEED the clamping ring. Screw-on chucks have been around for over 100 years and they are safe, if properly installed.
The main thing to do is not to take heavy cuts when running the lathe in reverse, and not to use a very aggressive braking setup on your VFD (if you have a VFD).
I have a question about tolerances when machining a new chuck back plate.
?
I recently purchased a Maximat V10P. It is in pretty good shape but only came with an EMCO three-jaw chuck that was missing the outside jaws. I'd like to have the option to use a four jaw chuck that I own, so I need to machine new back plate.
The lathe has a 1.5"x8 spindle nose.
?
The previous owner gave me a 6" partially machined back plate that he never got around to mounting a chuck on. Here it is beside the OEM chuck.
?
?
The threads on this plate fit just fine, but I need to machine a clamping feature or risk having the chuck unscrew when decelerating or running in reverse.
?
Here is the problem: The shoulder behind the threads on my spindle nose has a diameter of 1.499". The mating diameter on the back plate measures 1.515". I don't have a lot of experience machining cast iron, but I suspect that this 0.016"
difference is too big for a clamping feature to work. Even if I made generous relief cuts; the cast iron is just not flexible enough to close that big a gap.
?
I'm thinking of boring the back plate out a bit further (maybe 0.050" or so), fitting a steel sleeve (bonded in with some retaining compound) with an ID of perhaps 1.501", and then proceeding with creating the clamping features. Does that
sound like a reasonable plan of attack?
?
I considered just using the back plate as is (with no clamping feature). I know some older US-made lathes do this, but after reading other threads on this forum I think it's probably better to be safe than sorry.
I have a question about tolerances when machining a new chuck back plate.
?
I recently purchased a Maximat V10P. It is in pretty good shape but only came with an EMCO three-jaw chuck that was missing the outside jaws. I'd like to have the option to use a four jaw chuck that I own, so I need to machine new back plate. The lathe has a 1.5"x8 spindle nose.
?
The previous owner gave me a 6" partially machined back plate that he never got around to mounting a chuck on. Here it is beside the OEM chuck.
?
?
The threads on this plate fit just fine, but I need to machine a clamping feature or risk having the chuck unscrew when decelerating or running in reverse.
?
Here is the problem: The shoulder behind the threads on my spindle nose has a diameter of 1.499". The mating diameter on the back plate measures 1.515". I don't have a lot of experience machining cast iron, but I suspect that this 0.016" difference is too big for a clamping feature to work. Even if I made generous relief cuts; the cast iron is just not flexible enough to close that big a gap.
?
I'm thinking of boring the back plate out a bit further (maybe 0.050" or so), fitting a steel sleeve (bonded in with some retaining compound) with an ID of perhaps 1.501", and then proceeding with creating the clamping features. Does that sound like a reasonable plan of attack?
?
I considered just using the back plate as is (with no clamping feature). I know some older US-made lathes do this, but after reading other threads on this forum I think it's probably better to be safe than sorry.
Results from my initial go, here's the settings I used for the fusion 360 script to generate the gear
Just a little template to check the teeth
I got out the macro lens for my camera to get some close-ups. The filament I used for this test was some old PLA so it's a bit stringy, I will probably buy a new spool of nylon or petg for the actual print, but this stuff works for figuring out fit.
Pretty decent, it seems like the actual gear teeth are just a bit more peaked. I'm going to play around with some of the other script parameters to see if I can get a closer profile. And once I get the old gear pressed off and can take some measurements on the tapered hub I'll do a few more test prints to get the right dimensions for a good press fit. 3D printing is a slow process, but it does make trial and error like this a breeze.
On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 10:39?AM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .
For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39 P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
Ryan here is one advise ,dont meausure bore like this , because spline insert has deep knutling so firs time you press out this gear from insert and then you can measure inner diameter + add half milimeter ,so diameter will be smaller and when you press in it will be expanded and tightly fit on insert .
For example diameter from my old and damage gear similar like your just for non spline spindle shaft is inner diameter 42.18mm smaller and bigger 46,54mm but this dimensions is only for flanche so is deep only 4 mm rest of bore is the smaller ,Ok good news for you i find smaller gear and is match with teeth of big one si it is 1,5 module .
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39 P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
Hi Ryan small tip for you , take the new gear you got like parts they have similar tooth mode like gear what has teeth broken in headstock a try match them with gears which are out side headstock, i know for 100% they have module 1 and they will not match , so do not waste yout time with module 1 to print out like test tooth try 1,5 or 2 module .
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
Confirmed. I'm using a script in fusion 360 to generate gears, I can input number of teeth, mod, pitch angle etc. Using mod 1.5 and 61 teeth yields a diameter very close to what I measure on my headstock gear.
Currently printing a thin profile to compare, there's a few other parameters I may need to tune, but this seems like a good start.
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed
gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until
I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction
and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman
---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected]
Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39
P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for
any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for
replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running
again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10
. I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat
7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools,
I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed
gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until
I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction
and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman
---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected]
Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39
P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for
any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for
replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running
again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10
. I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat
7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools,
I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
On Mar 10, 2025, at 7:21?AM, Ryan Harmon via groups.io <ryanjharmon1@...> wrote:
?
Thanks for the help all.
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed
gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until
I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction
and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
<IMG_6221.jpg>
<IMG_6220.jpg>
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman
---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ----------
Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]>
Komu: [email protected]
Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39
P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for
any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
<inline.0.part>
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
<inline.1.part>
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for
replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running
again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10
. I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat
7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools,
I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
I've got half a mind to take Carvel's suggestion of putting it back together now and enjoying the use of common speeds, but with everything already disassembled I feel like I've got to at least give the printed gears a try. Worst case I end up with a printed gear that doesn't work and I'm no worse than I am now, right? Let's hope :)
@Roman thanks for the specs on the gears. I'll give mod 1 a try, I'm going to be printing a few gear silhouettes, just thin versions of the profile I want and comparing them to the actual gear I have. That way I can quickly update the dimensions until I think it matches spot on.
I started trying to press the gear off yesterday evening and found it's a bit of an awkward setup, the inner and outer diameters of the hub are actually quite different, it appears it is a taper fit on the gear. It will only press out in a certain direction and I couldn't find an appropriate piece of scrap in the garage to support the larger side, so I need to make a trip to the hardware store this week.
On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 5:11?PM roman fox via <romanfox68=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ryan module 1 use only ourside gears ( on quadrant ) inside headstock has gears bigger module i am not sure now if it is 1,5 or 2 maybe guys will know exactly, regards Roman ---------- P?vodn¨ª e-mail ---------- Od: Ryan Harmon via <ryanjharmon1=[email protected]> Komu: [email protected] Datum: 9. 3. 2025 16:09:39 P?edm¨§t: [emcoV10lathe] V10P Headstock Fiber Gear Replacement
I figured I would start a new thread here to keep the discussion relevant to the title, hopefully make future searches a bit easier.
?
Currently, my lathe has two stripped fiber gears, the only combo I can run it at to avoid any broken teeth is at the highest speed. I reached out to the seller who was liquidating the estate of the previous owner and let her know to keep an eye out for any "small brown gears" as she was cleaning out the shop, and to my amazement she actually found a replacement for one of them, new in bag:
?
Unfortunately, a replacement for the other gear was nowhere to be found. You can see from the pic below the extent of the damage.
If I'm looking at the manual correctly, this should be part # B2A-037-000. As far as I can tell, no one has one for sale at the moment on ebay, and I guess 61 tooth gears are not standard off the shelf sizes, so I'm trying to figure out a gameplan for replacement.
?
Here's my options:
1. 3D print a replacement. I've tried to dig through the other threads where this has been discussed, and I understand the concerns about plastic possibly shedding into the gearbox. But this may be the quickest and easiest way for me to get up and running again. I'll even be the guinea pig and let you all know if it was a bad idea
2. (Maybe, can anyone confirm this would work?) Purchase this 61T fiber gear for a Maximat 7, press it off the hub and bore out the inner dimension for my V10 . I have another working lathe so this is no issue, I guess my biggest hangup is depriving a Maximat 7 owner of a drop in replacement
3. Machine one myself. I don't currently have all of the necessary tools. I've got a rotary table and a mill, but I'm missing dividing plates and the actual gear cutters themselves. Not out of the question to buy the plates and maybe grind my own tools, I've wanted to get a gear making setup going for a while now.
4. Custom order one. To be honest, I would just a soon buy the equipment to make it myself at this point. This is a hobby for me and finding reasons to use my other tools is half the fun :D
?
Anyways, I'm still doing some research on my options, but figured I'd post something here in case anyone has some thoughts on these approaches.
Joe Thomas