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Re: Youtube video "Blinking LED with Single Transistor"

 

TO-92 cases have several variations that can get you in trouble.
I have seen cheap (US$20 or so) component testers online, that now claim to be able to tell you what kind of device you have (e.g., cap vs. diode vs. FET vs. PNP or NPN), and can even identify which pin is which, and what is the gain (Beta or Hfe).? I have no idea how reliable they are about all that.? I have been tempted to get one.
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Andy
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Re: Canned oscillator definition PDF

 

On Sun, Nov 17, 2024 at 07:00 PM, Donald H Locker wrote:

I hope you sent the locally-translated and -checked instructions to the vendor. The value to their product is very important.

But you might need to translate your message into Korean, so that they know what to do with it when they receive it.
?
Some languages may be harder than others to handle.? Some of these groups (hosted on Groups.io) require English only in messages, yet many group members are not fluent in English and some do not know any English.? Yet we do quite well using Google to translate back and forth.? It does a darned good job so far - but only with the languages we have done that with.
?
(Sorry to be off-topic.? There's no good way to pull this back into something about packaged oscillators.)
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Andy
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?


Re: current limited npn not allowing NPN to open

 

On Sun, Nov 17, 2024 at 03:05 PM, john23 wrote:
Why do you say is not a limiting current resistor?
Because a resistor in series with a current source does not limit or change the current.? Your circuit had a current source driving a current into the NPN's Base pin, and I wrote that it is not a current-limiting resistor with that circuit, with the current source.
?
The circuit that you uploaded now in 1.png still has a current source, I1.? Resistor R1 does not have any ability to limit or change the value of the current into the Base.
?
If i increase the Rb Ic will be smaller.
That happens after you replace current source I1 by a voltage source.
?
Andy
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Re: Organizing cables

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Many years ago, I learned to form cables in a figure-8 (around my thumb and pinkie), and only then to bundle/secure/wrap them for travel. They don't unravel; they don't tangle; they don't mate with other cables.

Donald.

On 11/17/24 13:55, Roy J. Tellason, Sr. via groups.io wrote:

On Saturday 16 November 2024 03:38:07 pm wn4isx via groups.io wrote:
Organizing cables

One major PITA since I got into electronics was organizing my various cables. If you store them in a drawer or box they wind around each other form Gordian Knots.
They're mating...

I've probably spent several months of my life in wasted minutes or hours untangling cables.
I have a couple of briefcase-sized cases that I used to use for toolboxes when I was mostly running service calls.  I'd keep my various test leads tied with those plastic ties that you get with some trash bags.  They'd still get tangled,  and while untangling them I'd comment to the custommer that someday there would be test leads that wouldn't tangle,  and the inventor would be rich.

I've tried several schemes over the decades with various degrees of success. Back in EE instrumentation and measurement we used Pomona cable hangers, at $39 each they weren't an option. The best I had come up with was "mushrooms" as used in telephone distribution rooms.

A friend suggested this.


I have a couple of those,  used when I had my shop,  and although I still have them I don't currently have a good place to put them.  Wall space is limited,  and very much used up.  I don't recall if they were Pomona or not,  just that you could get them in a few different sizes and I got the ones in the middle.

For ~$10 each they struck me as a probable solution. I ordered 5 (I have a lot of cables) and the quality is first rate, well the equal of Pomana.
For my toolbox I happened on some clear plastic pouches,  with zippers.  Labels had to be removed,  but a set of test leads in each of three or four of these works pretty well for me.  Not running service calls these days (retired!),  and I'm not sure where the focus of work is going to end up,  so there's a box labeled "shop cables" for the time being...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin






Re: Canned oscillator definition PDF

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I hope you sent the locally-translated and -checked instructions to the vendor. The value to their product is very important.

Donald.

On 11/17/24 16:31, wn4isx via groups.io wrote:

On Sun, Nov 17, 2024 at 01:57 PM, Roy J. Tellason, Sr. wrote:
I really think that some companies ought to have access to a person who understands the english language like a native speaker.
My wife ordered a nice quilting frame, it arrived, high quality parts, very reasonable cost but the directions were a mishmash of Korean and English. I was "forced" to visit our favorite Korean restaurant and show the directions to the owner. She and I spent an hour translating it into English. I offered to pay her for her time, "No, you and your wife are good customers."
It took me about an hour and half to assemble the frame with the proper directions. The designer is very smart and used some odd techniques but the frame is super stable and my wife loves it, other members of her quilting circle ordered one.
It even had attachments so you could fasten it the ceiling to pull it up out of the way,
?
?
?


Re: current limited npn not allowing NPN to open

 

Hello Andy,When I changed current to 3V voltage source?
given Ib=11.723618?A Ic=2.4mA in linear state , I got by the calculation below that Rb=8.5k

Why do you say is not a limiting current resistor?I current limiting resistor is a common name.
If i increase the Rb Ic will be smaller.
3-R*11.723618?A=0+1k*2.4mA+0.7
3-R*11.723618*10^-6=0+2.4+0.7
/g/electronics101/photo/296358/3856221?p=Created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C0


Re: Organizing cables

 

On Sunday 17 November 2024 11:56:13 am wn4isx via groups.io wrote:
And yes having almost all my cable nicely organized is extremely nice and our cat, who really own our home, has decided the desk drawer some of the cables were in is her new cave. The front of the desk drawer is broken leaving about a 3
gap that she slithers through just like a furry snake.

As nice as having my cables organized is, making my wife's day and giving Beasty Girl a new cave is nicer. Beasty is getting old, I suspect she doesn't have too many months left. The end point for cats old age is kidney failure and Beast is showing signs. Which sucks.
Yeah it does. We have a couple of those critters around here, one of which is hers and one which seems to have adopted me. I came in here earlier and sat down and she's in my lap in a flash. Right now she's over there, nested quite nicely on top of a cardboard box. I think I have more pics on my phone of those two critters than all of the rest of them put together.

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin


Re: Canned oscillator definition PDF

 

On Saturday 16 November 2024 07:54:32 pm Andy via groups.io wrote:
As many components are designed and manufactured overseas, by countries where English is not their primary language, it would not surprise me if things are "lost in translation".? Even the possibility of accidentally swapping letters in an acronym.
I really think that some companies ought to have access to a person who understands the english language like a native speaker. One email I just got features a product branded "Kroak", which doesn't have many positive connotations.

(...)
One of the definitions on that Transko PDF that bothered me, was this one:

Fan Out? -? A specification of the number of TTL or HCMOS loads to which the oscillator will be subjected.

That is not helpful.
No, it's not, particularly since there's a lot of difference between those two part families.

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin


Re: Organizing cables

 

On Saturday 16 November 2024 03:38:07 pm wn4isx via groups.io wrote:
Organizing cables

One major PITA since I got into electronics was organizing my various cables. If you store them in a drawer or box they wind around each other form Gordian Knots.
They're mating...

I've probably spent several months of my life in wasted minutes or hours untangling cables.
I have a couple of briefcase-sized cases that I used to use for toolboxes when I was mostly running service calls. I'd keep my various test leads tied with those plastic ties that you get with some trash bags. They'd still get tangled, and while untangling them I'd comment to the custommer that someday there would be test leads that wouldn't tangle, and the inventor would be rich.

I've tried several schemes over the decades with various degrees of success. Back in EE instrumentation and measurement we used Pomona cable hangers, at $39 each they weren't an option. The best I had come up with was "mushrooms" as used in telephone distribution rooms.

A friend suggested this.

I have a couple of those, used when I had my shop, and although I still have them I don't currently have a good place to put them. Wall space is limited, and very much used up. I don't recall if they were Pomona or not, just that you could get them in a few different sizes and I got the ones in the middle.

For ~$10 each they struck me as a probable solution. I ordered 5 (I have a lot of cables) and the quality is first rate, well the equal of Pomana.
For my toolbox I happened on some clear plastic pouches, with zippers. Labels had to be removed, but a set of test leads in each of three or four of these works pretty well for me. Not running service calls these days (retired!), and I'm not sure where the focus of work is going to end up, so there's a box labeled "shop cables" for the time being...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin


Re: Organizing cables

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Those are them.
I have three sets, one for test cables, one for computer cables and the last for power cables.

The only problem is the model you linked to has small slots for the cable (maybe 3/16"?)...there are others with alternating large (1/2") and small slots that allow hanging cables like LMR400, RG8 etc.



Re: Organizing cables

 

On Sat, Nov 16, 2024 at 03:38 PM, wn4isx wrote:

My wife just shakes her head when she sees the cables hanging neatly organized around my room.

Is she shaking her head because they are so neat, or because there are so many of them?
?
:-)
?
Andy
?
?
?


Re: Canned oscillator definition PDF

 

As many components are designed and manufactured overseas, by countries where English is not their primary language, it would not surprise me if things are "lost in translation".? Even the possibility of accidentally swapping letters in an acronym.
?
I'm assuming that TXCO was supposed to be TCXO but nobody caught the error.? Epson is a Japanese company.
?
I tend to want to think that a "temperature controlled" oscillator is the same thing as "oven controlled".? But by strict definition, I think it is not.
?
One of the definitions on that Transko PDF that bothered me, was this one:
?
Fan Out? -? A specification of the number of TTL or HCMOS loads to which the oscillator will be subjected.
?
That is not helpful.
?
I give manufacturers some leeway, either if they were translated, or if they were written by engineers and not reviewed by someone else.? I have seen better and worse.? Such is life.? As they say, caveat emptor.
?
Andy
?
?


Re: Canned oscillator definition PDF

 

I started looking at the Explanations in the posted file (m3_Oscillator Terms.pdf).? While as a whole they aren't bad, some of the Explanations are rather poor and some are deceptively bad.
?
When in doubt, find another explanation elsewhere.? Most oscillator manufacturers are pretty good about giving you good information to chew on.
?
Andy
?
?


Re: Chasing the "mythical" NE-1 neon bulb

 

The first part of this is off-topic, but I bring it back on-topic before the end.
?
My parents had a toaster that had an "interesting" electrical characteristic.
?
As a toaster, it worked fine, which might have been its detriment because they kept it for so long.? It was somewhat old, and might have had a cloth covered AC power cord.? I think the wires themselves were rubber-insulated, not cloth-insulated, but it's been many years.? As you might know, cloth-insulated wires are now considered Very Very Bad.? But I digress.
?
This is what happened:? If you lightly touched the toaster's metal case and ran your finger along the case, it had a really weird "vibratey" feel to it, almost as if the case was vibrating ever so slightly, but only when your finger slid along the metal.? A lighter touch was best.? It was not uncomfortable.? In fact, it was somewhat pleasant, if you didn't know what was happening.? This happened when wearing shoes (maybe sneakers too) on a carpeted floor, so I guess it was a small amount of AC current into the self-capacitance of your body.? All objects have some self-capacitance even if no ground is nearby.
?
In hindsight, it's a good thing there wasn't any grounded metal within reach!? At the time, I think we all considered it an oddity, but nothing to worry about.
?
I am not sure what caused it.? I figured it was capacitive coupling from the heater element wires to the case - hopefully not a direct connection to one of the AC power wires.? I'm pretty sure it was not wired like the All-American-Five radio, which by the way was in an insulated case so you couldn't touch the chassis unless you opened it up or pulled off the knobs.? The toaster's case was all metal.
?
Bringing this back on-topic:? I also had one of those little neon bulb toys, which had two brass-colored spheres and a neon bulb (probably NE-2 ?) on one end.? You could use it to show even small amounts of static electricity after rubbing your feet across a carpeted floor and touching someone else, even if you didn't feel any spark.? Anyway, by touching this toy to the toaster's case, the neon bulb glowed continuously, indicating that there was a small, steady flow of AC current from the case into your body.? I have no idea how much it was, except that it was small enough so you could not feel anything - except by skimming your fingers along the case.
?
I figure the "vibratey" feel was 60 Hz or 120 Hz.? (Maybe I should say 60 cps because we didn't call it Hertz in those days.)? Obviously this was in USA.
?
Regarding the "mythical" NE-1 bulbs, I do not recall ever hearing about them when I was growing up.? But a Google search tells me that you can still purchase them.? They are not myths.? They do exist.
?
Regards,
Andy
?
?
?


Re: Canned oscillator definition PDF

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Good stuff. Some of the terms were not 100% clear to me.

?

Thanks

?

Nuno T.

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of wn4isx via groups.io
Sent: 14 November 2024 07:19
To: [email protected]
Subject: [electronics101] Canned oscillator definition PDF

?

It's 2:00AM, my pain meds have wore off and the rain and low pressure are somewhat discomfort able, so I decided to get up and see if I could find a single reference for "canned" oscillators while waiting for a second dose to kick in.

?

These come in a wide array of packages, I almost always use DIP or half DIP. I need to explain to a friend the terms.

?

This is a nice PDF that covers all the common terms. Anyone who even thinks they will use a canned oscillator should download and save the PDF.

?

https://www.transko.com/img/support/m3_Oscillator%20Terms.pdf


--
Nuno T.


Re: Canned oscillator definition PDF

 

On Thursday 14 November 2024 02:19:15 am wn4isx via groups.io wrote:
It's 2:00AM, my pain meds have wore off and the rain and low pressure are somewhat discomfort able, so I decided to get up and see if I could find a single reference for "canned" oscillators while waiting for a second dose to kick in.

These come in a wide array of packages, I almost always use DIP or half DIP. I need to explain to a friend the terms.
I have a whole pile of those things. I should probably see if I can dig out some specs on them one of these days...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin


Re: Two other ways to flash LEDs

 

On Wednesday 13 November 2024 09:30:31 pm miktrain via groups.io wrote:
555 timers also are not subject to voltage. Anything from 5 to 16 volts will give exactly the same timing because they work on deviding the supply by 3 using 3 5K resistors, hence the name 555 and switch at 1/3 and 2/3
The CMOS version will operate at lower voltages yet, I think down to 3V...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin


Re: Further to my query of a flashing LED circuit not working

 

On Wednesday 13 November 2024 06:54:47 pm Andy via groups.io wrote:

But who can drive a standard transmission?
I wish we Americans could still do that - that it were still possible to get cars equipped with a standard shift.
My brother won't drive anything else...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin


Re: Further to my query of a flashing LED circuit not working

 

On Wednesday 13 November 2024 05:22:09 pm Gooey via groups.io wrote:
What is a FLASHING LED? I thought it was an LED that blinked regularly as
long as power was applied to it.

Based upon my (mis?) understanding, all one needed was the DC power (and,
possibly a resistor) to make a flashing light.
They do make those, but it's fairly trivial to make a circuit that'll flash an LED.. A couple of possibilites that come to mind are a simple astable oscillator, or a 555 astable. Probably better to use the CMOS version which willl operate to lower volages, though.

Here's another thought: You could get to the dollar store and get some of those lights with a little bitty solar panel on top. Change the LED for one of your chosen color, flashing or not, and work it over for longevity. Big Clive has some interesting thoughts about how to make them last a lot longer than they typically do, I may have posted a link not too long ago...


--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin


Re: Chasing the "mythical" NE-1 neon bulb

 

On Wednesday 13 November 2024 12:59:08 pm wn4isx via groups.io wrote:
On Wed, Nov 13, 2024 at 11:56 AM, Roy J. Tellason, Sr. wrote:

Every outlet in this 100 year old house has been replaced with one that
has a ground connection. Unfortunately my handy outlet tester shows me
that a fair number of them don't have any connection to that ground pin...
Was the work perhaps performed by the same electrician that stuck a power cord on the radio?
I serioously doubt it. I have no idea who performed the work, it having been done way prior to our being here.

The work you get from people is of varying quality. Originally the electic service was coupled to the barn next door (originally an actual farm barn but since then renovated into a residence) and another outbuilding with overhead wiring. I have salvaged that stuff but am not sure what I'm gonna do with it. Two insullated wires and one not, pretty heavy stuff. But the insulation was rubbed through in spots, I wouldn't try to put power through that line again. The garage here was bruught in in two parts on a truck and set up, and the guy who wired up the electric to it somehow managed to get only 120V out there, even though there were wires to give 240V. At some point much later the neighbors (n the barn) decided to get the driveway paved, and those folks never even asked about wires, and killed that feed with some heavy equipment. The guy who fixed that was pretty good, and managed to get 240V out there if I should ever need it for something. But I can't get the neighbors to dig out his name and phone # so I can use him for some other stuff.

Some time later on we appeared to lose one phase of the power coming in. Turns out that water had followed the wire going in and got into a box that had two big honkin' fuses in it, I think they were 150A or something like that. The fix was replacing the meter box, the feed going into the house, and the breaker box, this time with one that had a main breaker so those fuses were no longere needed. It was interesting to watch that guy disconnect the wires coming off of the pole and leave them hanging there in space up on the side of the house, not something I'd ever care to touch. He didn't do a terrific job on the two ground rods he installed, one went about halfway in and then got bent over and buried, the other one not even that far. After he was done I wanted to speak to him about relocating the outlet for the dryer, it's on an inside wall and the dryer vents into a crawl space, not optimum. Moving it across the room would allow venting it to the outside like you're supposed to. He instead suggested that the venting be run under the floor to the outside wall, which leaves the issue of having to clean that, something I was trying to get away from. I want to get some work done connecting the grounds for the electric to those for the lightning rods and bonding everything together, but I wouldn't hire that guy.

Maybe I can get the neightbors to give me the info on that other guy who was out here and ran the wiring to the garage...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin