Can Any one give me Any info on how to mod DVD players so they are
multi code?????


)O( )O( )O( )O( )O( )O( )O( )O( )O( )O( )O( )O( )O( )O(

The Sinister Dragon


Hey, Just because I'm EVIL,
Doesn't make me a bad person...... >:-)

Hello.

I'm trying to run a 24v D/C gear motor with the ability to control RPM
between 20 - 35. Continuous operation, 9 hours per day.

50 inch oz. of torque. Looking at the Molon C15, or other type of 'gear
motor' that I can attach a nose gear to the shaft. Speed control is
mandatory.

My problem is in the controller itself. EXPENSIVE. I'm now looking into
model railroad controllers to do the job. They are bigger than the normal
KB controllers, but half the cost.

Can anyone suggest a way to control speed of a D/C motor, inexpensively? It
cannot be 'Mickey mouse' because it's part of a prototype machine I'm
building, which hopefully will sell to the public. Is it a fact of life
that it just costs to cut the voltage?

Thanks.

Gary

I have a large quantity of used Futaba M202SD08
standard character display modules (vacuum flourescent
displays or VFDs) for sale for $15.00 each, with free
shipping.

(Free shipping applies to US buyers only. Non-US
buyers - Please contact me to make special shipping
arrangements, as you will be responsible for any
charges beyond normal US shipping).

On my VFD page at
you'll
find photos, specifications, a link to the operations
manual in PDF format so you can download the manual
free, a link to Futaba for further information, my
eBay buyer / seller ratings, and more.

These VFDs can be used in a variety of applications
such as BASIC STAMPS, 80C52-BASIC controllers, PCs,
robotics, PICs, PLCs, miscellaneous projects for the
electronics hobbyist and experimenter, and more.

These displays were removed from good equipment
because they weren't "showroom new". A few of the
pixels are slightly dim, but each has been
individually tested and found to be in good working
order.

Each module comes with a 30-day guarantee (minus
return shipping charges) if returned in undamaged
condition with your sales receipt.

They may not be suitable for production use, but they
are a terrific bargain for experimenters, developers,
and hobbyists.

These VFDs retail new for $70-90 each, but I am
offering good used ones for about 1/4th that price.
Only $15.00 each, shipping included.

I accept personal checks and money orders, or you can
use your credit card securely via PayPal to order.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact
me.

William E. (Ed) Miller, ASEET
11 N. Washington Street
Chesterfield, Indiana 46017 USA
(765) 378-0358 (evenings)

prototech@... (main e-mail)
coolcreek.geo@... (alternative e-mail)



=====
William E. (Ed) Miller
coolcreek.geo@...
prototech@...

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices

I have a large quantity of used Futaba M202SD08 standard character
display modules (vacuum flourescent displays or VFDs) for sale for
$15.00 each, with free shipping. (US only).

On my VFD page at you'll
find photos, specifications, a link to the operations manual in PDF
format so you can download the manual free, a link to Futaba for
further information, my eBay buyer / seller ratings, and more.

These VFDs can be used in a variety of applications such as BASIC
STAMPS, 80C52-BASIC controllers, PCs, robotics, PICs, PLCs,
miscellaneous projects for the electronics hobbyist and experimenter,
and more.

These displays were removed from good equipment because they
weren't "showroom new". A few of the pixels are slightly dim, but
each has been individually tested and found to be in good working
order.

Each module comes with a 30-day guarantee (minus return shipping
charges) if returned in undamaged condition with your sales receipt.

They may not be suitable for production use, but they are a terrific
bargain for experimenters, developers, and hobbyists.

These VFDs retail new for $70-90 each, but I am offering good used
ones for about 1/4th that price. Only $15.00 each, shipping included.

I accept personal checks and money orders, or you can use your credit
card securely via PayPal to order.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.

William E. (Ed) Miller, ASEET
11 N. Washington Street
Chesterfield, Indiana 46017 USA
(765) 378-0358 (evenings)

prototech@... (main e-mail)
coolcreek.geo@... (alternative e-mail)

okay, v=ir, right.

Yup. It's a Law.

did i miss this? is there any way to increase voltage, or are you stuck
with the max. output of your ps?

As far as I know, voltage controls current, but it doesn't work the other way around. There are transistor circuits in which input current will control output voltage, but that's another story.

So, while it may work on paper using Ohm's law, it doesn't actually work that way.

If you have your 1.5 volt battery, that voltage is a constant (assuming it isn't wearing down and getting old...which will happen). The resistance of the circuit and that voltage will determine the current running through it. Voltage is a difference in electrical potential...a pressure...a force. Current is the actual flow of electrons which is 'pulled' by voltage and 'restricted' by resistance.

So if you have next to zero ohms (which is the resistance of wire...nothing has zero ohms) you will not have exponentially increasing voltage. It just doesn't work that way because the current is not the constant you base your calculations (and real situations) on.

i'm trying to build some cute super mini synths and stuff for gifts, so
a bit frustrated since i'm on a deadline. i'm trying to power circuits
with single aaa batteries.. on it's own, not even enough to trigger most
leds and transistors.

With capacitive discharge you can get an LED to fire off with even a low voltage like that. Try looking for the ICs they use in camera flash circuits. Some use small oscillators and flyback transformers or the like to get the high voltages, but I think it is possible to charge up a capacitor and let the low resistance of the LED allow a huge surge current fire through the LED for a fraction of a second allowing a huge discharge in light, but not for long enough to burn it out. LEDs are very sensitive to being burnt out by too much voltage or current.

If you use a germanium transistor, the voltage drop across the base-emitter junction will be small enough that you'll still have enough leftover voltage to work with. Try using a germanium transistor to make a basic common-emitter amplifier with a 1.5 volt battery as supply. If you don't know what that means, I'll look one up for you and find you a shcematic online.

-Tavys

At 7:04 PM -0700 4\30\01, xoxos wrote:

i'm trying to build some cute super mini synths and stuff for gifts, so
a bit frustrated since i'm on a deadline.

Hey, when you're not up against a deadline, I'd like to hear more about this project. I dream of doing similar things :)

-- Z

right..

i *did* previously realise that in the v=ir equation, smaller values of
r would mathematically increase v, and larger would increase :) i'm waay
shagged out, and haven't got any results any way. a week of failures.

okay, v=ir, right.

i've tried using resistors rated at a fraction than an ohm, but i'm not
getting any increase in voltage, and all the amplifier info i can find
uses a 'signal' voltage and a 'supply' voltage, ie. just using an amount
of the 'supply' voltage in proportion to the 'supply,' ie. like a
transistor.

did i miss this? is there any way to increase voltage, or are you stuck
with the max. output of your ps?

i'm trying to build some cute super mini synths and stuff for gifts, so
a bit frustrated since i'm on a deadline. i'm trying to power circuits
with single aaa batteries.. on it's own, not even enough to trigger most
leds and transistors. i have some resistors rated at .5 ohm.. it doesn't
make sense to me, but what they hey. if this can be done, i'd be cool
for some ideas on doing it cheaply, and in a small amount of space! :)

I recall a book called 'Electronics 101'. Is it still availalbe?
Where can it be found (online store?)?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices

Funnily enough, your comment re the true earth provided the answer,
thank you. I rearranged it, and it works like a dream. Arcane it may be,
but it works very well:-) I thought the design looked strange -the
battery symbol's back to front for a start I think- so I've built it a
bit at a time (so as not to waste time). So far (I've done the rf and af
amps) it's worked very well.

Cool. Glad to have been of help, even if I barely had a clue :)

Anyone know how to quieten a switching power supply for use in audio
circuitry? I have a cheapy power supply laying around, and am curious...

-Darren

Funnily enough, your comment re the true earth provided the answer,
thank you. I rearranged it, and it works like a dream. Arcane it may be,
but it works very well:-) I thought the design looked strange -the
battery symbol's back to front for a start I think- so I've built it a
bit at a time (so as not to waste time). So far (I've done the rf and af
amps) it's worked very well. There are photos of a constructed Desert
Ratt at the end of

(I think that's the right link).

Dominic
Darren Reid wrote:

--

"Dominic Rivron" <karen.rivron@...> sez:

Thanks for this (and thanks to Joshua too. The amp in question is part
of:

Wow. Truly bizarre. I am too new to all this to comment usefully on such an
arcane construction...what the hell is that transistor on the inputs for? It
would seem to account for your prediliction to oscillation, if I can follow
what's going on. Anyway, you'd have a constant hum alright; there'd always
be something flowing across one of the inputs, right?

If you want a simple LM386 amp, check out National's app notes for the chip.
Use it like you'd use a standard op-amp, and you would be worlds ahead of
that strange device :)

-Darren

Darren Reid wrote:

Hmm. Did you build it straight from the app notes, or some other schematic?
Can you point us to the schematic you used, somewhere on the web? The hiss
might be from lack of a true ground...

Thanks for this (and thanks to Joshua too. The amp in question is part
of:


Dominic
--

Hmm. Did you build it straight from the app notes, or some other schematic?
Can you point us to the schematic you used, somewhere on the web? The hiss
might be from lack of a true ground...

I'm new to the world of electronics myself. I have successfully built an
LM386 amp, though....I think I used a mish mash of app notes and general
opamp theory to come up with my schematic, and I didn't get any hum or
oscillation. I *did* get nasty clipping artifacts when I turned up the
volume on my guitar :)

I built it in an empty 10-pack diskette box, BTW. They make rather
convenient small project boxes.

-Darren

Hi all

Great site, and just about at my level being fairly new at this
game. I am a pretty keen radio monitor on both VHF and UHF as well
as HF. I am very keen to get my hands on a circuit for a RF preamp
for VHF, I know they can be purchased ready made but this would be
my first project if I built it myself. I got a circuit for a mast
head preamp from
but I would Idealy prefer one that I can use next to the radio. Also
I have searched the catalogues for a transister BFY91 without
success, can another be used in its place?

If anyone has a circuit for a preamp or knows a site were I can get
one, or even a modification of the one I mentioned I would realy
appreciate the info.

Roger Harrison

If I'm not mistaken, there's a +15V gain on the LM386.... I think I read
this from National Semiconducter's PDF file on constructing sine wave
shapers...look on google, in the PDF file there's a couple of good
alternatives that don't suffer from the noise pickup.

Joshua

----
"I'm not a slave to a world that doesn't give a shit."
Pulse 8 - aim:jkerseyVCSO

I've just built an audio amplifier using an LM386, and found that though
it amplifies, there is an annoying level of backgound hiss, irrespective
of the volume setting or input. Also, it tends to oscillate at full
volume. Can anyone offer any suggestions?

regards
Dominic Rivron
--

开云体育

Ges-Lab Indonesia

We are Concerns & Focus

I need a simple schematics for tester/Cheker? component for;
- Counter
-Shift Register
-Multiplexer
-De- Multiplexer
-Flip-Flop
-RS-Lacthes & D-Latches
-IR2110
-SCR-Ujt-Triac
?
Best Regasds

(Afrizal Lana)

?Jl Ciherang no 2? Rt 05/05
Cimanggis

Kota Depok - 16954

INDONESIA
Phn? +62-21-8744173??

Fax? +62-21-87740486

Lana@...

There are a lot of different ways to do this. You can
spend a lot of money and not so much time, or a lot of
time and save some money.

PLCs (Programmable Logic Controllers) are well suited
for this sort of thing. They will take in data from
your transducers and come equipped with all kinds of
switching relays and analog outputs. Look at

automationdirect.com

If you are planning on making money off this venture
and can't afford to be screwing around with things
that don't work for whatever reason, that is the best
way to go.

Altenatively you could buy a microcontroller kit,
learn to program it and get some D/A converters for
your signals, but you will probably spend a bunch of
cash on that too.

I do data acquisition and control with a program
called LabVIEW, that runs on a PC. It costs $3000 and
it lets you do all the PLC stuff, but with user
interfaces and a graphical programming language.

Omega.com is a good place for industrial transducers.

Another thought is to post to a hydroponics group.
They do exactly what you are doing but for hundreds of
acres of hothouse vegetables.
=]
Matt Hill

--- paksao@... wrote:

Hi I am a new guy here and to electronics. But I'm
hoping to learn
enough to complete some projects I have in mind.

I'm interested in setting up a system that will
control a vivarium
temperature humidity, lights pumps , etc and do it
based not only on a
schedule (ex mist 3 times a day) but also on the
current conditions(
ex too hot -> mist run fans,cut some lights). I know
I have a long way
to go before I could build it from scatch. So the
plan is to learn
the individual pieces then put them together.

some of the parts I need

build a circuit to control a relay to turn on and
off a light or pump.
build a circuit to monitor and display temp
build a circuit to monitor and display humidity
build a circuit to monitor and store temp ( probably
need a pic or pc)
build a circuit to monitor and store humidity (
probably need a pic or
pc )
...
...

Any suggestions on where to get started?

I already have some basic soldering skills and
programming skills but
i need to do a lot more.

Hope fully I can start to pick up some of what I
need here

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.