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Re: #3D #3D

 

开云体育

I use Alibre. I wonder if it can import a MasterCAM file?? Or if it needs to be STP or IGES.

John

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: November-24-19 10:24 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #3D

?

John

see STL file.ER 32 Tray
I use Mastercam v 8.1 (2002) for all my CAD and CAM.
Old version but never lets me down for Mill and 3D printer, still working
on g codes for my CNC lathe .Almost there.

Thanks
John
--
John


Re: #MISC carbide single flute milling cutter. #MISC

 

Ralph
I thought the generic word "carbide" was powdered forms of Tungsten and Cobalt ?

--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

John

see STL file.ER 32 Tray
I use Mastercam v 8.1 (2002) for all my CAD and CAM.
Old version but never lets me down for Mill and 3D printer, still working
on g codes for my CNC lathe .Almost there.

Thanks
John
--
John


Re: #MISC Making a simple 4 mm keyway slotter holder and bit. #MISC

 

I forgot to add attachment.

--
John


#MISC Making a simple 4 mm keyway slotter holder and bit. #MISC

 

Steps. see drawing. but the principle is good for any size keyway to be cut.
Turn the outer holder shank to suit.
In this case, drill and ream 4 mm dia.
Open up the end to 5 mm dia, finish with a 5 mm end mill to create flat bottom.depth important.
Turn a up a spud, note dimensions.
Slot with a 4 mm wide slitting saw to 4.2 mm deep. as you need a bit of daylight between the end of the brazed spud and the cutting bit,
this ensures the grub screw?holding the bit comes down fully.
Push the spud into the slot of the holder, and braze.
This creates the square (rect)? for the bit. 4mm x 4.2 mm.
Final op, back onto the lathe and drill and tap the end 4 mm x .75.

Tool bit made from 8 mm dia drill rod, or Silver steel.using a 5 or 7 degree end mill.
Hold in a J Stevenson 4 sided block.
Mill all sides to 4 mm square. IE important remove 2 mm per side.using the base of the endmill.
Turn 90 degree in the JS block. Using the side of the endmill mill the side rakes. to leave a witness.
Mill the front rake using the side of the mill.
Rotate the JS block 180 degrees and tilt using a angular parallel say 5 degrees and with the end of the mill, finish the top rake again to a witness.
Harden and temper the bit and slice off with a Dremel. to suit the final length required.
I prefer to leave the drill rod longer during making the bit, you need to allow extra length when holding in a collet, and something to grip
on when dunking in oil during harden and temper process, put the bit into the holder after HT and Dremel off.Sparks will also
tell you the HT is correct.
Naturally the bit cannot be longer than the bore of the keyway to be cut, neither can the diameter of the holder bit end.
Example, 10 mm dia gear bore, 4 mm wide keyway. holder entering the bore, will be 7.8 mm. or slightly less.
The cutting end of the bit can be exposed say 1.5 mm.
This means you can cut 1.5 mm deep of key, move back to start position, move the bit out 1.5 mm and repeat to final depth.
Normally keyway depths be it in the spindle (slot) or gear are 1/2 the size of the key.The idea of square bits is that you can slide
in and out of the holder without fear of rotating it and losing side position.
Sounds confusing but doing it you will get the idea.
Very quick to make, and reliable.
Hope of interest.

--
John


Re: #MISC carbide single flute milling cutter. #MISC

 

Says Tungsten -Steel not Carbide!

Ralph

On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 4:39 AM John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
Posted as maybe of interest to our members.
Just run a trial cutting ally, brass, plastic, PCB, laminates.
Quite impressive.
Solid carbide.?
Maybe OK for mild steels, I will let you know.


--
John


--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer


Re: #3D model railway accessories. #3D

 

I love trains! The details are so amazing.

Ralph

On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 2:35 AM John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
Something a bit smaller than the ER 32 trays.and I hope of interest to all my forum members.
This is what makes this forum so different from the other stereotype forums, so basically as long
as posts have a modern approach "hobbyist" flavour then there really is no OT. This includes woodworking but not the actual?
chain sawing of the tree.
I wanted to be a tree surgeon, but could not deal with the sight of sap LOL .

My local friends hobby is model railways.He builds everything from kits and I step in now and again if he needs lathe, mill ,3D work doing.
See video link and if time permits see all his You tube videos Byford model trains.videos.
Very impressive, again another (how I envy) electronics engineer.

All his locos (30 +) are controlled by a hand held box, the locos have a recognition system inside with
a IPS code and he just taps in a 4 digit code, and away goes the loco in either F and R.
The track switching is also electrically controlled in conjunction with the red and green traffic light system.
IE The trains come up to a red light, it stops, and will not move until the lights turn green, how crazy is that.

All trains have individual sound systems etc etc.automatic turn table again see videos.
Full marks to Richard Hollows of Spain for the hours hes has spent..
Richard being from a Yorkshire wool mill town, Byford, wanted some realistic looking wool baskets.
So he asked me if I could 3D print some scale basketsI said, I will give it a try.Size 12mm Long 9 mm wide 9 mm high. Tiny.
So after designing from a 1945 photo of a wool basket and using a .2 mm dia nozzle, (first time) on the 3D printer
the weaving details came out reasonably well.and I printed 28 at at a time.time to print 1 3/4 hours.
Also printed 4 baskets with a hinges and hollow inside, the wool seen inside is a "q" tip.Tiny.
Already Richard has sprayed them with a mini paint gun to simulate that "worn" effect.

Hope of interest.




--
John


--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer


Re: #GR #GR

 

John Lindo,

I have emailed you a manual with a description of the ACCEL trim pot function on the mini-lathe.? Its function is to do exactly what you want to do; to slowly (the adjustment range is 1 - 5 seconds) accelerate the motor based on the setting of this trim pot.? There is also a trim pot to limit the inrush current to the motor.? If you change the ACCEL setting, you must also adjust the speed and inrush current settings.? The manual gives adjustment descriptions.

I would not add additional circuitry here if the function that you want is already built in, and only needs to be set.

I suggest you photograph the original settings so you can always return to them if the adjustments go bad.? Also check the maximum and minimum spindle speeds before making any changes, as you will want to readjust these to the same settings after changing the ACCEL pot.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

MURPHY'S CONSTANT:?Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.


Arduino based DRO using cheap Calipers #ARD #DRO

Chuck Pickering
 

I enjoy working with Arduino's and making useful projects with them. I am not a real great programmer, but I can usually understand or figure out how a sketch works.
I have successfully built a Arduino based control setup to run my rotary table. I studied several others work and combined pieces of sketches to make the controller do what I wanted. For example, I modified my sketch to include input from a 4x4 matrix keypad, making data entry easier.
My current project id using an Arduino Uno to read the data from a cheap Chinese digital Caliper (think Harbor Freight in the US). I have two sketches that work, one displays the correct measurement in inches, and one works if the caliper is in mm mode. I cannot figure out how to get the two functions into one sketch. I had this working a few years back, including using bluetooth to send the data to an Android Tablet running Youri's Touch DRO. I somehow lost the working sketch, and am now trying to get it working again.
Anyone here played with this concept?


#MISC carbide single flute milling cutter. #MISC

 

Posted as maybe of interest to our members.
Just run a trial cutting ally, brass, plastic, PCB, laminates.
Quite impressive.
Solid carbide.?
Maybe OK for mild steels, I will let you know.


--
John


Re: #GR #GR

 

开云体育

Back in the old days, with tube televisions and radios a temperature dependent resistor was placed in series with the transformer primary to prevent a large current surge that happened as the transformer power supply charged up.? As the current flowed the resistor warmed and the value of the resistance dropped to a value that reduced the voltage drop and the TV/Radio behaved as if it wasn't there.

?

That worked well for those types of equipment because they weren't repeatedly switched on and off.? While hot they wouldn't do what they were supposed.? But for Motor Control systems they don't work because system may be switched off due to an estop or limit switch (or a spindle motor) and while hot you no longer get that soft start.

?

That's why I added a small 8 pin PIC micro-controller to switch the relay in/out based on when AC is applied.? Now each ESTOP causes the same sort of inrush current suppression.

?

Now about the spindle motor.? Putting a inrush resistor on a simple DC brushed motor would probably work.?

?

But a speed controlled motor like on the mini-lathes may not like an inrush limiter on the AC input.? If the motor is a two wire DC brushed motor then something like that might limit the motor current but only when it's cold.? It stays hot while running so if the motor is switched off and then on again there is no benefit.

?

Another possibility, is switching a resistor in series with the motor for a short time and then removing it may work.? But again I'm not sure it will work with the types of motors on these lathes.

?

If you changed to a switch that was momentary in one direction and ON in the other.? Or had two ON positions you could perhaps switch a resistor in series in the one position and then remove it in the second. ?So for the small chucks flip the switch directly to ON.? For heavy chucks and work held in the chuck, switch to the start position which limits the current into the motor and then as the motor picks up speed switch it the rest of the way onto the ON position.

?

Or alternatively switch the motor driver to one that can actually ramp up the motor speed at whatever rate you program.? Especially if it's got an encoder that lets it close the loop and maintain exact spindle speeds at slow RPM.? Useful for threading with a 1PPR spindle sensor and MACH3.

?

John

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: November-23-19 9:52 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #GR

?

Reference Mini lathe. 125 mm dia chuck. I use very regularly.
I am still looking for an electrical device to put inline a?"soft start" when turning on the spindle using the 125 mm chuck only, due?to the extra static weight .
I do not want to shock the machine when it kicks in. The 80 mm and 100 mm dia chucks are not an issue.
I understand there are 4 setting? "pots" BIOS ? whatever they are called, on the main board that adjusts the way the motor behaves,
but I am nervous to fiddle with these away from the original factory settings.
As in my past posts, I admit? I am not an electrical engineer, so any help would be appreciated.

Ideal situation would be to be able to isolate the "soft start" when the 125 mm dia chuck is not in use.
But at this moment, as it is not a show stopper, provided? I get into the habit of turning the spindle start on slowly all works OK.

I can post the mounting plate dimensions/drawings of a mini lathe 4" spindle to 5" chuck if of interest.
The Chinese "Sanou" brand of chucks, MAGIC, for quality, price, exceptional, concentric holding on the both sets of
steel jaws incredible accuracy.?


--
John


Re: #GR #GR

Richard
 

Pity you did not mention your 125mm chuck start up problems, I could
have sorted something. However just be gentle on the speed control knob!
Richard

On 24/11/2019 06:40, John Lindo wrote:
To cold to play here this Sunday morning, relatively I know even
colder or hotter for other Aussie members, so i am? messing about
playing catch up on the forum.
GR Mk 2, photo and video of the system when powered up.
I have a spare motor and control box, ( this one just repaired by
Richard UK) thanks mate.
--
John


#3D model railway accessories. #3D

 

Something a bit smaller than the ER 32 trays.and I hope of interest to all my forum members.
This is what makes this forum so different from the other stereotype forums, so basically as long
as posts have a modern approach "hobbyist" flavour then there really is no OT. This includes woodworking but not the actual?
chain sawing of the tree.
I wanted to be a tree surgeon, but could not deal with the sight of sap LOL .

My local friends hobby is model railways.He builds everything from kits and I step in now and again if he needs lathe, mill ,3D work doing.
See video link and if time permits see all his You tube videos Byford model trains.videos.
Very impressive, again another (how I envy) electronics engineer.

All his locos (30 +) are controlled by a hand held box, the locos have a recognition system inside with
a IPS code and he just taps in a 4 digit code, and away goes the loco in either F and R.
The track switching is also electrically controlled in conjunction with the red and green traffic light system.
IE The trains come up to a red light, it stops, and will not move until the lights turn green, how crazy is that.

All trains have individual sound systems etc etc.automatic turn table again see videos.
Full marks to Richard Hollows of Spain for the hours hes has spent..
Richard being from a Yorkshire wool mill town, Byford, wanted some realistic looking wool baskets.
So he asked me if I could 3D print some scale basketsI said, I will give it a try.Size 12mm Long 9 mm wide 9 mm high. Tiny.
So after designing from a 1945 photo of a wool basket and using a .2 mm dia nozzle, (first time) on the 3D printer
the weaving details came out reasonably well.and I printed 28 at at a time.time to print 1 3/4 hours.
Also printed 4 baskets with a hinges and hollow inside, the wool seen inside is a "q" tip.Tiny.
Already Richard has sprayed them with a mini paint gun to simulate that "worn" effect.

Hope of interest.




--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

开云体育

STL file.? G-Code is for specific printers.?? What CAD system did you use to design the tray?

Thanks
John

?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: November-23-19 9:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] #3D

?

Ref ER 32 collet tray.
I will do.
I can send the STL file, or g code ? the time to print just about 13 hours.PLA.

--
John


#GR #GR

 

To cold to play here this Sunday morning, relatively I know even colder or hotter for other Aussie members, so i am? messing about playing catch up on the forum.
GR Mk 2, photo and video of the system when powered up.
I have a spare motor and control box, ( this one just repaired by Richard UK) thanks mate.
--
John


#MISC Something different. #MISC

 

Attached a couple of photos of a LH digital vernier.
Very useful when working on small machines, the scale projects toward the operator?
and not hitting the column of the machine.
The only place i know where to purchase is Amadeal UK, but I am sure surfing the web, there must be other tool outlets.
Hope of interest.

--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

Ref ER 32 collet tray.
I will do.
I can send the STL file, or g code ? the time to print just about 13 hours.PLA.

--
John


Re: Grizzly G3616 #CNC #MILLS

 

John D

Thanks for sharing with us.
You do excellent work,.
See my reply reference #GR "soft start up".
Can you help ?

Best regards

--
John


Re: #GR #GR

 

Reference Mini lathe. 125 mm dia chuck. I use very regularly.
I am still looking for an electrical device to put inline a?"soft start" when turning on the spindle using the 125 mm chuck only, due?to the extra static weight .
I do not want to shock the machine when it kicks in. The 80 mm and 100 mm dia chucks are not an issue.
I understand there are 4 setting? "pots" BIOS ? whatever they are called, on the main board that adjusts the way the motor behaves,
but I am nervous to fiddle with these away from the original factory settings.
As in my past posts, I admit? I am not an electrical engineer, so any help would be appreciated.

Ideal situation would be to be able to isolate the "soft start" when the 125 mm dia chuck is not in use.
But at this moment, as it is not a show stopper, provided? I get into the habit of turning the spindle start on slowly all works OK.

I can post the mounting plate dimensions/drawings of a mini lathe 4" spindle to 5" chuck if of interest.
The Chinese "Sanou" brand of chucks, MAGIC, for quality, price, exceptional, concentric holding on the both sets of
steel jaws incredible accuracy.?


--
John


Re: #LATHES Mini lathe saddle hand wheel. #LATHES

Bruce J
 

开云体育


On Nov 23, 2019, at 1:43 PM, CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:

Hi, Bruce,

There are three primary ways to insert photos into our posts; insert (which will place the photo in the body of the text); attach (which will attach it to the email and require that you click on it to open the photo; and link (which will provide a link to the photo on a hosting service set up and maintained by the poster.)? It may be that John and other posters are using different methods, resulting in you receiving a link.

Alternatively, there is a setting in that will automatically convert any photo to a link if the photo is larger than your set limit.? (See below.)? You can change this setting in the Subscription, Advanced section.? I hope this helps.

Thank you!


--?
Bruce Johnson

The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.