开云体育

Class Project - test drive

Robert Bruninga All Messages By This Member #19058 remember u can just use jumper cables and a 12v battery direct to the motor to test the motor and move it around the shop bob toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 9:40 AM JL Johnson <jlj4774@...> wrote: I have a 1980 commuta car that I have yet to restore. I've sure done a lot of research on it, though. If keeping it OEM isn't a concern I would suggest getting a solid state controller out of a semi-modern 48 volt golf cart. You could totally go Lithium over lead acid but that's added time/expense and requires a good bit of engineering. If/when I finally move forward with mine I'll be going the solid state route. Makes for smoother acceleration. Plus I suspect given the two mode controller it has now would make parade driving hard. It really runs at just two speeds. Very slow, and slow. No middle ground :) Looking forward to seeing what you come up with... -- JL Johnson jlj4774@...
john Ledermann All Messages By This Member #19059 Could you install less batteries in series and then perhaps your speed would be slow enough that you wouldn't have to drive in the mode with the voltage dropping resister (coil) which would drain the batteries and cause overheating?? It would be like driving with almost dead batteries. On Tuesday, January 25, 2022, 01:59:48 PM CST, Robert Bruninga <bruninga@...> wrote: remember u can just use jumper cables and a 12v battery direct to the motor to test the motor and move it around the shop bob toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 9:40 AM JL Johnson <jlj4774@...> wrote: > > I have a 1980 commuta car that I have yet to restore. I've sure done a lot of research on it, though. If keeping it OEM isn't a concern I would suggest getting a solid state controller out of a semi-modern 48 volt golf cart. You could totally go Lithium over lead acid but that's added time/expense and requires a good bit of engineering. If/when I finally move forward with mine I'll be going the solid state route. Makes for smoother acceleration. Plus I suspect given the two mode controller it has now would make parade driving hard. It really runs at just two speeds. Very slow, and slow. No middle ground :) > > Looking forward to seeing what you come up with... > > -- > JL Johnson > jlj4774@... >
Robert Bruninga All Messages By This Member #19060 i never drove in position 1 (resistor in series) other than a smoother transition from 0 to 12v or is it frm 12 to 24v? which only lasts a second anyway, bob On Tue, Jan 25, 2022 at 6:53 PM john Ledermann <thelederfam@...> wrote: Could you install less batteries in series and then perhaps your speed would be slow enough that you wouldn't have to drive in the mode with the voltage dropping resister (coil) which would drain the batteries and cause overheating? It would be like driving with almost dead batteries. On Tuesday, January 25, 2022, 01:59:48 PM CST, Robert Bruninga <bruninga@...> wrote: remember u can just use jumper cables and a 12v battery direct to the motor to test the motor and move it around the shop bob On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 9:40 AM JL Johnson <jlj4774@...> wrote: I have a 1980 commuta car that I have yet to restore. I've sure done a lot of research on it, though. If keeping it OEM isn't a concern I would suggest getting a solid state controller out of a semi-modern 48 volt golf cart. You could totally go Lithium over lead acid but that's added time/expense and requires a good bit of engineering. If/when I finally move forward with mine I'll be going the solid state route. Makes for smoother acceleration. Plus I suspect given the two mode controller it has now would make parade driving hard. It really runs at just two speeds. Very slow, and slow. No middle ground :) Looking forward to seeing what you come up with... -- JL Johnson jlj4774@...

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