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Body repair, was got to sell my 78 Citi-car?? Baltimore MD

 

Hi ?? and All,
That is? some extensive damage.
?The front isn't available so what I'd do is take a piece of FG, alum or SS and make a stripe with it from the bumper to the windshield wide enough and glue it with 3M 5200 or other suitable glue, epoxy.
The other pieces I'd make a ply/wood backing, glue in? and fill in with FG and fair, paint the whole car.? Or make a FG piece and butt block glue it in, fair.
These would be the fastest, lowest cost ways.
Some of the other panels are available , just not the front.
The original contactor set up works well and has the power you need a 800amp electronic controller to match.
And they are rebuildable if needed.? Not a bad idea to buy some spare contacts ahead of time.? A group buy might be in order to get quantity price.
You might want to change the motor brushes and maybe brush holder as the brush leads get weak with age. And clean the commutator then break the brushes in.??
Since in there might as well replace the bearing and have a near new motor.? All up only $100 in parts and a couple hrs including R+R.
You'll have significantly better performance with used EV lithium batteries,. especially Volt, other LG cell? modules, not Leaf.? And if shopped well or buy a Volt pack, as cheap as new lead just 30% of the weight.? With the lighter weight an E controller can be smaller, 400-600amp.
I'm not on the facebook list as many others are not so if someone wants could put this up there..??
? Jerry Dycus?


On Friday, December 25, 2020, 03:42:52 PM PST, bw.hal via groups.io <bw.hal@...> wrote:


Hello everyone,
I am the one who bought Bob's Citicar. It is a 3.5hp, 48V, 1976 model (2134). Ideally I would like to restore it to as close to original as possible as most of the originals electronics are still intact(have not tested them yet), but it does have some major body damage to the plastic. I included some photos below, but these are a couple weeks old from when I first got the car into my garage. I have since cleaned the entire outside and have moved on to cleaning the interior. I am already a part of the Facebook groups and this list.
 

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Don¡¯t know if anyone has mentioned, but that back panel and left rear quarte should still be available from CB down in Winter Haven, FL.?

?

??? Peter Crisitello

????? Crisitel@...

?

?

From: [email protected] On Behalf Of jerry freedomev via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2020 5:22 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [c-car] Body repair, was got to sell my 78 Citi-car?? Baltimore MD

?

Hi ?? and All,

That is? some extensive damage.

?The front isn't available so what I'd do is take a piece of FG, alum or SS and make a stripe with it from the bumper to the windshield wide enough and glue it with 3M 5200 or other suitable glue, epoxy.

The other pieces I'd make a ply/wood backing, glue in? and fill in with FG and fair, paint the whole car.? Or make a FG piece and butt block glue it in, fair.

These would be the fastest, lowest cost ways.

Some of the other panels are available , just not the front.

The original contactor set up works well and has the power you need a 800amp electronic controller to match.

And they are rebuildable if needed.? Not a bad idea to buy some spare contacts ahead of time.? A group buy might be in order to get quantity price.

You might want to change the motor brushes and maybe brush holder as the brush leads get weak with age. And clean the commutator then break the brushes in.??

Since in there might as well replace the bearing and have a near new motor.? All up only $100 in parts and a couple hrs including R+R.

You'll have significantly better performance with used EV lithium batteries,. especially Volt, other LG cell? modules, not Leaf.? And if shopped well or buy a Volt pack, as cheap as new lead just 30% of the weight.? With the lighter weight an E controller can be smaller, 400-600amp.

I'm not on the facebook list as many others are not so if someone wants could put this up there..??

? Jerry Dycus?

?

?

On Friday, December 25, 2020, 03:42:52 PM PST, bw.hal via groups.io <bw.hal@...> wrote:

?

?

Hello everyone,
I am the one who bought Bob's Citicar. It is a 3.5hp, 48V, 1976 model (2134). Ideally I would like to restore it to as close to original as possible as most of the originals electronics are still intact(have not tested them yet), but it does have some major body damage to the plastic. I included some photos below, but these are a couple weeks old from when I first got the car into my garage. I have since cleaned the entire outside and have moved on to cleaning the interior. I am already a part of the Facebook groups and this list.
 

Jerry

You said to avoid Leaf batteries, can you explain?
Bart
 

I've used Leaf batteries with the CCar before, so I can speak to my experience with them.

I wouldn't say not to use Leaf batteries at all, but I would say you need to know about some caveats. The cheapest (1st generation) leaf batteries you can find on eBay are often severely degraded, with perhaps 40-60% of their original capacity. In addition, they do not handle overcurrent well, and will swell. You can use 1st generation batteries, but you must make sure you have enough modules in parallel (I would say at least 3, and more like 6 if you want any sort of range) and a proper battery management system to ensure they are treated correctly.

Second generation Leaf batteries would work better--they will have more remaining capacity and should handle things a little better. However, you'll still need to make sure you have enough in parallel (probably also about 3) because they won't be able to handle much overcurrent safely.

That all being said--if I was to build modern batteries for a CCar again, I would get batteries salvaged from a Chevy Volt. I've read they are able to handle high charge/discharge currents, so perfect for a smaller battery for the CCar. They're also not much more expensive than the Leaf batteries, and probably most Volt batteries you buy will have little to no degradation of the capacity. Chevy ensured the Volt batteries would last a long time by programming the Volt to only use about 80% of the actual capacity.

There's one more option I'd recommend if you have the money: Tesla battery modules are pretty expensive, but you could power a CCar with just two of them and have decent range -- or add more for more power / more range.

All of the above will need a BMS (battery management system) -- you can get away without one but you'd be running a risk of prematurely killing your battery pack at best -- and at worst, your battery pack going up in flames, taking the CCar and anything around it with it.

- Jacob


On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 12:49 PM Barton Fisher <bartonfisher77@...> wrote:
Jerry

You said to avoid Leaf batteries, can you explain?
Bart

 

Hi Bart, Jacob and All,
? Jacob has it correct on Leaf modules and how to use them and the c car at low voltage is a heavy current user which Leaf modules don't do well at. But you'll end up paying more than for Volt modules for the same performance and Volt a far longer life..
? Even Renault who owned part of the battery plant with Nissan switched to LG cells making Nissan rather mad.??
The only cells/modules you don't need to use a BMS with is the modules made with 30amp LG cells like the Volt plus the high output currents the ccar needs it handles well.? ?I'm on 2.5 yrs without any deviation of cells at all even with charging abuse.
Tesla modules are marginal in a ccar unless you use 4 of them, 20kwh with contactor controller or an electronic controller with 2, 10kwh.? And you'll need to hack the BMS which I think is available.
The others should have a BMS too which are readily available for 48vdc packs.
I'm using Bolt modules on my next project but they are 36vdc modules? with LG cells so an E controller at 72vdc would be the ticket.
Jerry Dycus


On Saturday, December 26, 2020, 01:36:24 PM PST, Jacob <jacobtimothyfield@...> wrote:


I've used Leaf batteries with the CCar before, so I can speak to my experience with them.

I wouldn't say not to use Leaf batteries at all, but I would say you need to know about some caveats. The cheapest (1st generation) leaf batteries you can find on eBay are often severely degraded, with perhaps 40-60% of their original capacity. In addition, they do not handle overcurrent well, and will swell. You can use 1st generation batteries, but you must make sure you have enough modules in parallel (I would say at least 3, and more like 6 if you want any sort of range) and a proper battery management system to ensure they are treated correctly.

Second generation Leaf batteries would work better--they will have more remaining capacity and should handle things a little better. However, you'll still need to make sure you have enough in parallel (probably also about 3) because they won't be able to handle much overcurrent safely.

That all being said--if I was to build modern batteries for a CCar again, I would get batteries salvaged from a Chevy Volt. I've read they are able to handle high charge/discharge currents, so perfect for a smaller battery for the CCar. They're also not much more expensive than the Leaf batteries, and probably most Volt batteries you buy will have little to no degradation of the capacity. Chevy ensured the Volt batteries would last a long time by programming the Volt to only use about 80% of the actual capacity.

There's one more option I'd recommend if you have the money: Tesla battery modules are pretty expensive, but you could power a CCar with just two of them and have decent range -- or add more for more power / more range.

All of the above will need a BMS (battery management system) -- you can get away without one but you'd be running a risk of prematurely killing your battery pack at best -- and at worst, your battery pack going up in flames, taking the CCar and anything around it with it.

- Jacob


On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 12:49 PM Barton Fisher <bartonfisher77@...> wrote:
Jerry

You said to avoid Leaf batteries, can you explain?
Bart

 

Good info posted here on batteries
Thanks, Bart

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