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I just got a great deal on a Citicar, thanks to Mike Chancey's EV trading post. It's a white later Citicar with the quieter dana axle and real doors. It drives, but barely. I'm going to transfer my

Mike, thanks alot for the info, on your State Farm policy. This was all the information they needed, to get a basic recreational use policy started on my C-Car for $100.00 a year. I still can't

I don't know if this would help any, or if State Farm keeps records that far back, but when my 1975 CitiCar was insured with them, the policy number was 5560 722 A27 25. This was a liability only

What on earth is wrong with the boys at State Farm? When I took my '75 Citicar to them for insurance in 1990 they were a bit surprised to discover they actually had the car listed in their books and

I'm about to finish the paperwork at DMV. This includes title reconstruction, inspection, and getting tags. Beford I did this, I went to State Farm Insurance Company to insure my 1980 C-Car.

Congrats on getting another one rolling! The "can solenoid" is the middle speed (second). First is the tall contactor closing with the dropping resistor in the circuit. (18 volts to motor) Second

On Friday night at school, we got our red 48V Citicar going. With an advisor from a local electric forklift service co., he verified out wiring. We lifted the back of the car and tested the motor

on my 75 citicar which I've had since one year old, I changed to silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) and stopped all pitting of brake cylinder bores. To reduce bouncing of the contactor (series/parallel) due

Hi Jack, The pot is for adj the regulator voltage at the end of charge. It will however, also affect the charging rate too (amps). I had adj mine to 56 volts after the batteries were fully charged.

Most of the problems I have had in the begining were with the brakes. Not because they were worn out but because they sat for so long. I did notice that the rear brake axle flanges on the white 1980

to: Jack from the Shack You got a great find. Good luck with your great mode of transportation. After 26 years wih my Citicar they're great and a lot of fun. Some young kids laugh at it but most

The first time I saw my 1980 Commutacar was 20 years ago when it was sitting on the lot of a Chevrolet dealership. It was brand new with a sticker price of $5,495.00. Even back then I thought they

Hi Louie, I ckecked with about a half dozen electrical supply houses locally with no luck until one suggested Gould Shawmut who had the fuse links same as originals. They are part RL #250

Hi Blaine, Yes I would like to see a picture of your battery boxes. I have to have new ones made up this winter, mine are rotted out from batteries leaking acid. I guess I have the 6.13 rear, i

Hi Don, Yes you are correct, A fuse at each bank would be smart, I will look into it. How much did the fuse links cost and how many amps are they rated for? Take Care, Louie to prevent a direct

Hi Tim, Well thanks for taking the time to look for the contactor. You are correct, the 2 I need are double pole double throw, DPDT. So far I have located a source of 3 of the 4 stationary

Hi Louie, I'm sorry it took me so long to do, but I did find the spare contactor I have. Unfortunately, it does not seem to be an S/P model - it is set up as a single pole double throw (SPDT), not a

don paine (donruth215@...) The first rear end problem in about 1980 was a growl on left side rea, caused by a bad left rear wheel bearing easily obtained from local brng. supplier. Next about

Hi Lou, I think it's a good idea to add a fuse in either bank of batteries to prevent a direct short between the banks if the contactor messes up. I've gotten spare fuse replacable links from Gould

The mods on my commutacar are still going on , I modifyed the battery boxes front and back to carry two more six volt batterys in each box or 12 all together, right now I am useing 9 Delfis 8 volt