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Re: remakeing the car
I have some info at:
A Curtis controller with at least 400 amps should be OK. Usually a Curtis 1209, but you might be able to use one of the upgraded 1205 controllers from Golftech: We tried an upgraded 1204 from Golftech. The performance was adequate but it would go into thermal cutback if pushed too hard/too long. SAH --- In C-Car@..., infoman101@a... wrote: I have a Comuta car I want to update the controler in it. but Ihave no idea where to start. |
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Re: Year of Manufacture?
Tim Dunning
Hi Don,
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I don't know how to decode the VIN either, but I have a 1981 (according to the title) Comuta-Car with VIN 1111B1C20BS000860. Perhaps if you can get a few more samples a pattern will emerge. Good Luck, Tim Hi to all, and Happy New Year. |
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Re: Citicar motor
Mike Chancey
<anthonyluiz@...> wrote:
Has anybody taken apart their citicar GE 3.5hp motor? I got my I had my GE 3.5 apart several times and there wasn't any sort of ring with set screws on the armature or comm. I would recomend you find a GOOD motor repair shop, and have yours checked over. It sounds like yours needs some professional assistance. The shop that did mine did contract work for the railroads, and knew DC motors inside and out. As I recall it ran about $300 for them to go through it, but afterwords it felt like it had twice the power. Thanks, Mike Chancey, '88 Civic EV Kansas City, Missouri EV List Photo Album at: My Electric Car at: Mid-America EAA chapter at: Join the EV List at: |
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Citicar motor
Has anybody taken apart their citicar GE 3.5hp motor? I got my
Citicar with almost dead batteries and a jerking at low speed. After battery replacment the motor started to smell and the jerking got much more noticeable. After removing the motor and opening it up we found that the motor brush holder was bad and the commutator was in bad need of turning, and the commutator plates have different resistance readings between adjoining plates. After looking it over,it looks like there was at one time a ring of some sort that put pressure on the wires where they attach to the commutator via some set screws or something, I think this would explain the resistance difference. On all of the outer wires there is a small dent that looks like there was a bolt that pushed on it at one time. After looking around and calling GE I still have not found any info.Does anyone know if there is a ring of some kind missing. Does anyone have some knowledge or an assembly drawing of this motor? Can anybody help me? Any info at all would be helpful and very much appreciated.... want to drive my car again! Anthony |
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Re: Citicar/Comutacar Tire Source
The 155 will be too big and will rub. The largest diameter tire that
you might get away with is the 145/80R12. The Guardsman 145/80R12 from Sears is about $20 each. The first 12" radials on the Comuta-car where 125R12. Even the 145/80R12 would be over 3/4" wider and almost 1.5" taller. SAH --- In C-Car@..., techman@h... wrote: I was visiting my local K-mart over the weekend and noticed theyspecs are available on Goodyear's web site (www.goodyear.com). Thismight be a good fit for the C-cars that have the 12" rims. |
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Citicar/Comutacar Tire Source
I was visiting my local K-mart over the weekend and noticed they
carried Goodyear Club metric radials. They had the 155/80R12 size (21.7" diameter) in stock and were sale priced at $21.99 ea. The tread pattern on these looked pretty decent too. A picture and specs are available on Goodyear's web site (www.goodyear.com). This might be a good fit for the C-cars that have the 12" rims. |
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Year of Manufacture?
Hi to all, and Happy New Year.
December was a quiet month for the C-group must have been the cold weather. Even in Florida very cold for our thin blood. It's been a nice week end I just finished recovering my bench seat. Even with four of these cars I don't have one good set of seats. Now I have something comfortable to sit on while I'm trying to unravel the wiring mess under the dash. The main reason for this message is to find out if anyone out there knows how to tell what year a Comutacar was manufactured. I don't have Titles for any of these cars. They all have VIN numbers, and was wondering is it encoded in the VIN #???? Will have some pictures to send soon. Thanks for any help. Don Morin |
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10" Wheels
Hi,
Sorry this has taken so long to answer, but I had the information about the 10" tires and wheels at my office. When I tried trailer tires I found that the four hole spacing was slightly off (close enough for a trailer I guess) since they were metric and very close to the inch units of our wheels. This made the car thump slightly, I suppose it was my luck to get metric substitutes. Anyway, my local tire dealer took them back and got me the 10" rims and Goodyear Double Eagle radials--which cost alot. I have since found a golfcart place that sells them at a much better price. It is Santiago Golf Car Supply in Orange, CA. Phone is 714-633-9089 or www.santiagogolf.com. There are other suppliers of these types of tires after all, we are driving glorified golf carts now. Good luck, Tom Gocze |
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Re: wheels
Tech Man
Wow, 10" rims on a C-Car. Based on the rim size, I am assuming that you are
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running bias-ply tires and not radials on these rims. I guess compared to wobbly trailer tires that almost any type of alternative would be better but my intent is to maximize range and speed which is hindered with wide, bias-ply tires. I also want to have decent handling. The only combination that I have been able to come up with are 12" rims with 145/80R12 tires since these are the smallest diameter radial that is commonly available (at least in the US). I have been looking at purchasing 12" rims from Northern Tools (part # 1221 @ $14.99ea.). Northern also has another 12" rim (part # 12212 @$14.99 ea.). The difference between the two is that the later is listed as "high-speed" and it looks somewhat different. It also weighs 12lbs compared to 11lbs for the standard wheel. Both rims are stated as having a 4 X 4" bolt pattern which is what the C-Car requires. Could you tell me where you got the rims that you tried? If they were from Northern, I will look for a different source. -----Original Message----- |
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wheels
I tried some trailer tires and found that some of the rims are metric instead of english units (inches)
and they were slightly off. This caused a wobble that was not too much fun to drive with. Then tried 10" golf cart rims and they improved the ride markedly. The tradeoff was a slower vehicle and lower ground clearance. Haven't dragged on anything yet. The car feels alot less like a deathtrap over 35 with these new wheels and tires. I increased the operating voltage to 72 volts and this combination makes my '80 C-car a nice ride. Tom Gocze |
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Re: Comutacar Tire Replacement
--- In C-Car@..., Tech Man <techman@h...> wrote:
Hello to All,rims on the Comutacar and replaced them with 12" rims in order to utilize 12"radials (i.e. 145/80R12) which are readily available. If you have madethis conversion, where did you get the rim with the proper bolt patternand offset? Also, does anyone know the wheel offset on the 13" rims?Thank you.All Citicars and some Comuta-cars used 12" x 4" wide rims with no offset. Some Comuta-cars used 13" x 4.5" wide rims with 1/4" offset back from center. The 12" wheels came stock with 480x12 trailer tires and later with 125R12 radials. The 135/80R13 tires that came on the Comuta-cars were larger and rubbed under some conditions. The 145R12 tires will work just as well. Any standard 12" 4 bolt trailer wheel will work. They almost all are 4" wide with no offset. For wheels see: Also, see my info on C-car wheels and tires: SAH |
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Comutacar Tire Replacement
Tech Man
Hello to All,
I would be curious to know if anyone has replaced the stock 13" rims on the Comutacar and replaced them with 12" rims in order to utilize 12" radials (i.e. 145/80R12) which are readily available. If you have made this conversion, where did you get the rim with the proper bolt pattern and offset? Also, does anyone know the wheel offset on the 13" rims? Thank you. |
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Re: Citicar battery holddowns
Mike Chancey
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Royce,
?
Yes Cititcars had battery tie downs.? There
was a square metal plate, about 6" on each side with a single long bolt through
it that secured the center four batteries.? The two on ach side were scured
by two bolts between each pair of batteries, that went through a plastic double
angle piece, that looked like two pieces of angle iorn welded back to
back.? On my Citi the plastic bits had broken, so I made my own from
steel.? For bolts I was able to find long enough universal ones at
NAPA.? I hope the quick picture below helps.
?
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV Kansas City, Missouri EV List Photo Album at: My Electric Car at: Mid-America EAA chapter at: Citicar/Comutacar egroup at: Join the EV List at: ?
?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Royce Chow KF6PEO" <rufus@...>
To: <C-Car@...>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 1:49
AM
Subject: [C-Car] Citicar battery
holddowns > any holddown method. I see some holes in the bottom, but they look > more like drains than mounting points. Did citicars originally have > battery holddowns, and if so, where did they mount? > > Royce Chow > 197? Citicar, sitting at a happy 67.8 volts > > > -------------------------- eGroups Sponsor -------------------------~-~> > eLerts > It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free! > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------_-> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > C-Car-unsubscribe@... > > > > |
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Citicar battery holddowns
I just installed the batteries in my citicar, and there is no sign of
any holddown method. I see some holes in the bottom, but they look more like drains than mounting points. Did citicars originally have battery holddowns, and if so, where did they mount? Royce Chow 197? Citicar, sitting at a happy 67.8 volts |
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Shocks & Master Cylinder
Mike,
In response to your question as to what year my Comutacars are I will be honest I really don't know. This I can tell you is that all four of these cars were used by Miami Prison Guards. I was told they hated the cars, and did everything to to break them. They hit the speed bumps so hard that it bent leaf springs. Now I don't know if there is a place that the year is stamped on these vehicles, or coded in the VIN #? When I finished sand blasting the rear end I found the #4-25-80 in the casing, but don't know if that was the date the rear end was built, or the car. If any one knows where to find the date I'd like to know. Had the Sheriff Dept. run a VIN # Check, and nothing came up. Also to answer the question about the shocks travel if I remember correctly they were very close around 1/2" difference. It was the best match NAPA could come up with. I'll send you the Original Master cylinder # when I pull the one out of the other car. Don |
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Last year for C-Cars?
Mike Chancey
Hi folks,
Does anyone know when the last Comutacar was made? I can't recall if it was '80, '81, or '82. I know the first Citicars were made in '74, but when did it all end? Thanks, Mike Chancey, '88 Civic EV Kansas City, Missouri EV List Photo Album at: My Electric Car at: Mid-America EAA chapter at: Citicar/Comutacar egroup at: Join the EV List at: |
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Re: Part Numbers
Mike Chancey
Hi Folks,
Well, the begining of the parts interchange is up at: It isn't much yet, but if we all share our info, it can become something very useful. Thanks, Mike Chancey, '88 Civic EV Kansas City, Missouri EV List Photo Album at: My Electric Car at: Mid-America EAA chapter at: Citicar/Comutacar egroup at: Join the EV List at: |
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Re: Part Numbers
Mike Chancey
Hi Don,
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What year C-Car do you have? I want to get the year for the master cylinder and shock interchange list. That sounds like the same shock I used on my Citicar. I drilled out the lower loop to 1/2" and replaced the lower shock mount with a 1/2" bolt. As I recall they did not have the same compressed length as the original Gabriels, but they did not bottom out. FWIW, I am an ex-NAPA parts counterman, and still have access to the catalogs and parts information, (they would like to hire me back). Thanks, Mike Chancey ----- Original Message -----
From: <belltronic@...> To: <C-Car@...> Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2000 4:42 PM Subject: [C-Car] Part Numbers Hi Guy's, |
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Part Numbers
Hi Guy's,
I think the Parts Data base is great. As I said before I have just finished the bottom end of the car. I bleed the brakes today, and have a strong full pedal. There was a problem getting all the air out of a system that has been almost totally replaced. I had to design a pressure feeder plate for the master cylinder, and it worked great. It bleed the system in 15 min. a done deal.... Everything below was replace except the brake shoes, wheel cylinders, and cylinder cups. The cups were in good shape so I reused them. These Bendix wheel cylinders I have had no luck so far finding, or crossing for replacement. Now that I have explained where I am here is a list of part numbers that I did find so I hope this will help. I will start by saying that my business is right next to a NAPA Auto Parts store. Could you ask for anything better! These guy's find this project interesting, and have been bending over to help me find parts for this little car. One of the first things I had to replace was the Shocks. The one's that were on this Comutarcar were Gabriel Shocks, and didn't cross. NAPA did cross this shocks travel to a Monroe. The NAPA part # is 20721. Now there is one small problem with this shock, and that is the bottom end of the shock has a mounting hole smaller then the Gabriel. I solved this problem by turning the bolt down on my Lathe from 5/8" to around 7/16". You make the choice for yourself if this is what you want to do.......it worked for me. The Master cylinder is a rebuilt NAPA Pt. # 10-1373 cost @ $26.00. The only difference is the reservoir cover on this unit bolts down. I find this easier to remove then the spring retainer. Brake lines and such are not a problem, but if you want part # let me know I'll send # that I used. Don |
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