Re: What batteries do I need?
Price is what you can find... But I have interstate gc2-ecl-utl. 115 min @75a 225ah@20 hrs. On my 6hp dana I can get 38mph max. Depending bon tire pressure. 40 miles is my ablsoute max. That can vary depending on many things, wind, temp, braking, tire pressure,passenger, phase of moon, mood I'm in.
It's the farthest my batteries take me safely, but it is dangerous close and no big hill at the end.??
?
I¡¯m not very clear on how amps and amp hours work.
Ultimately I looking for a clear answer.
I have an all original Comutacars.
I would love to go the 38mph and 40 mile range.
But don¡¯t want to spend $200 or 300. Per. Battery.
Feel free to explain what I¡¯m looking for or provide a link of what I need.
Thanks in advance.
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Re: What batteries do I need?
I can explain Amps and Amp-hours, to get you started.
TL;DR: Amps is basically how much torque the car is producing. The more amps it can draw, the more tourque it can produce. Amp Hours is range--the more AH, the further you go.
Now for a more detailed explanation.
Power is measured in Watts (W). When you get large numbers of watts, (like over 1 horsepower's worth), it's measured in Kilowatts (KW). For example, the motor in the 6HP ComutaCar is rated for 6000W, or 6KW. That's actually 8HP, but it probably isn't 100% efficient--thus the 6HP rating.
Watts is volts times amps. The ComutaCar uses a 48V battery system, but the number of amps it draws varies a lot depending on if you're accelerating, coasting, or going up a hill.
To understand voltage and amperage a little better, let's imagine power (in watts) as a river. The speed of the water in the river is like the voltage--how fast it's going. The amperage is how wide the river is, or how much volume of water there is flowing.
Thus, a large, slow river is like a low-voltage, high amperage. A small waterfall would be more high-voltage, low amperage.
This explanation is in no way scientific, but it seems to help.
Another way to look at volts and amps, specifically relating to motors:
Volts is how fast the motor can go: The more volts, the faster it goes. Amps is how strong the motor is (how much torque it has): The more amps it can draw, the stronger it is.
One thing to know: The motor can only draw as many volts as the batteries supply--but the number of amps is usually completely variable. If the car is rolling down a hill, expect very few amps drawn. If you're going up the next hill, expect hundreds of amps drawn. The motor will (try to) draw as many amps as it needs to keep up to speed.
Now that that's all out of the way, we can look at Amp Hours (AH).
AH is a rating for batteries, and it means how many amps the battery can supply for an hour.
For example, let's say I have a 10AH battery.
If I connect it to a motor that draws exactly 10A, it will run for an hour before needing recharged. If my motor only draws 5A, it will run for two hours--and so on.
Note that the AH rating is not how many amps the battery can output--so, despite my battery being rated for 10AH, I could probably pull 30A from it--it would just last only 1/3 of an hour.
Hopefully that helps clear up the mystery around Watts, Volts, Amps, and Amp-Hours!
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
What batteries do I need?
I¡¯m not very clear on how amps and amp hours work.
Ultimately I looking for a clear answer.
I have an all original Comutacars.
I would love to go the 38mph and 40 mile range.
But don¡¯t want to spend $200 or 300. Per. Battery.
Feel free to explain what I¡¯m looking for or provide a link of what I need.
Thanks in advance.
|
New file uploaded to C-Car
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the C-Car
group.
File : /Batteries needed
Uploaded by : justinbreal87@... <justinbreal87@...>
Description : I need all 8 batteries without breaking the bank and with good range.
You can access this file at the URL:
To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
Regards,
justinbreal87@... <justinbreal87@...>
|
Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
You can get your original "spiders" rebuilt or resleeved at:
sales@...
Glen Stevens EV Performace 25 LeAnn Street Rogersville, AL
35652 256-607-0110
He did all 4 of mine. They were pitted and he resleeved them, he does a great job at half the price of those new "India" made spider.
|
Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
If one front wheel locks but the other doesn't, check your car for this
problem.
At the time the really crappy stuff was coming out of india.? Probably
still are.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 4/20/19 12:34 AM, jacobtimothyfield@... [C-Car] wrote: Thanks again for the information!
It has plenty of play still--the limiting factor is the depth of the cylinder and the height of the floor. I have it adjusted so that the pedal is about 1/2 inch from the floor when depressed.
The pedal has about twice as much travel now--seems like that should be a major improvement in braking quality just by itself!
- Jacob Field
1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
Re: Way to find brake parts for drum brake cars
These are the same brake shoes I have on my Comutacar.
|
Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
Thanks again for the information!
It has plenty of play still--the limiting factor is the depth of the cylinder and the height of the floor. I have it adjusted so that the pedal is about 1/2 inch from the floor when depressed.
The pedal has about twice as much travel now--seems like that should be a major improvement in braking quality just by itself!
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
Make certain that when the pedal is released there is a tiny bit of play in that rod.? For the master to work properly it must be able to fully release, uncovering the ports inside. I do not know the exact spec on that play, but it's there.?
?
Thanks for the advice! That?makes sense, I'm surprised that just the rubber swelling could do that.?
Is there a good place to get the hoses? Looking at them, it seems they should be pretty standard.
I also discovered that the pushrod from the brake pedal to the cylinder wasn't long enough, so the brake pedal wasn't pushing the cylinder in as far as it could go. I adjusted it, of course¡ªbut batteries are still on their way, so no good way to see how much that helped overall.?
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
?
You're a great mechanic.? You do it yourself and question when you aren't sure.? You are correct about f/r proportioning valve. If you have not replaced the rubber hoses, they can swell internally and block flow. I just replaced 2 on my Fiero last week for the same reason. Looked ok on outside, wife could bleed with me but kid could not.? Minimal flow through the line. And residual pressure held brakes on causing drag.? Something to look at.
?
You might be able to tell I'm a very experienced mechanic (Sarcasm).
It sounds like proportioning valves only balance between the front and back brakes. Is that still true for the CCars?
If it is, my valve probably isn't the issue. What could it be, then?
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
Thanks for the advice! That?makes sense, I'm surprised that just the rubber swelling could do that.?
Is there a good place to get the hoses? Looking at them, it seems they should be pretty standard.
I also discovered that the pushrod from the brake pedal to the cylinder wasn't long enough, so the brake pedal wasn't pushing the cylinder in as far as it could go. I adjusted it, of course¡ªbut batteries are still on their way, so no good way to see how much that helped overall.?
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
?
You're a great mechanic.? You do it yourself and question when you aren't sure.? You are correct about f/r proportioning valve. If you have not replaced the rubber hoses, they can swell internally and block flow. I just replaced 2 on my Fiero last week for the same reason. Looked ok on outside, wife could bleed with me but kid could not.? Minimal flow through the line. And residual pressure held brakes on causing drag.? Something to look at.
?
You might be able to tell I'm a very experienced mechanic (Sarcasm).
It sounds like proportioning valves only balance between the front and back brakes. Is that still true for the CCars?
If it is, my valve probably isn't the issue. What could it be, then?
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
I have a proportioning/combination valve on my 77. Has the warning switch on it.?
?
As far as I know, there is no separate proportioning valve on the 4 drum brake C-Car¡¯s.? I would say your problem most likely is in the master cylinder.? This
should be an easy replacement as that cylinder was used on many years by AMC and Studebaker as well.?? Rebuild kits as well as new ones should still be available at NAPA.? However the rubber brake lines are also something you should look into first as they
would be much cheaper to start with .
?
?
???
Peter
Crisitello
??????
Crisitel@...
?
?
?
?
From: C-Car@... [mailto:C-Car@...]
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2019 8:01 PM
To: C-Car@...
Subject: [C-Car] Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
?
?
You might be able to tell I'm a very experienced mechanic (Sarcasm).
It sounds like proportioning valves only balance between the front and back brakes. Is that still true for the CCars?
If it is, my valve probably isn't the issue. What could it be, then?
|
Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
As far as I know, there is no separate proportioning valve on the 4 drum brake C-Car¡¯s.? I would say your problem most likely is in the master cylinder.? This
should be an easy replacement as that cylinder was used on many years by AMC and Studebaker as well.?? Rebuild kits as well as new ones should still be available at NAPA.? However the rubber brake lines are also something you should look into first as they
would be much cheaper to start with .
?
?
???
Peter
Crisitello
??????
Crisitel@...
?
?
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: C-Car@... [mailto:C-Car@...]
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2019 8:01 PM
To: C-Car@...
Subject: [C-Car] Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
?
?
You might be able to tell I'm a very experienced mechanic (Sarcasm).
It sounds like proportioning valves only balance between the front and back brakes. Is that still true for the CCars?
If it is, my valve probably isn't the issue. What could it be, then?
|
Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
You're a great mechanic.? You do it yourself and question when you aren't sure.? You are correct about f/r proportioning valve. If you have not replaced the rubber hoses, they can swell internally and block flow. I just replaced 2 on my Fiero last week for the same reason. Looked ok on outside, wife could bleed with me but kid could not.? Minimal flow through the line. And residual pressure held brakes on causing drag.? Something to look at.
?
You might be able to tell I'm a very experienced mechanic (Sarcasm).
It sounds like proportioning valves only balance between the front and back brakes. Is that still true for the CCars?
If it is, my valve probably isn't the issue. What could it be, then?
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
Re: Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
You might be able to tell I'm a very experienced mechanic (Sarcasm).
It sounds like proportioning valves only balance between the front and back brakes. Is that still true for the CCars?
If it is, my valve probably isn't the issue. What could it be, then?
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
Afraid my proportioning valve is stuck
Hi All,
I've been working on my brakes on my 1980 ComutaCar--but I think the proportioning valve may be stuck. Here are the symptoms: - I've flushed both brakes on the front, and now the right side locks up--but the driver side remains unchanged when someone presses on the brakes (I have the car jacked up).
- It took much longer to flush the driver side than the passenger side.
Does that sound like what's happening? Any tips or tricks for unsticking it, or finding a replacement online? I don't know whether this is one of the generic parts that Sebring-Vanguard/Commuter V. Inc. used, or if it's one of the impossible-to-find parts...
Thanks! - Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
Re: Way to find brake parts for drum brake cars
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: C-Car@... on behalf of Dave Brice dbrice3721@... [C-Car]
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2019 3:41 PM
To: C-Car@...
Subject: Re: [C-Car] Way to find brake parts for drum brake cars
?
?
You are correct. I have Cushman truckster/haulster shoes on my car now.?
?
Hi All,
Perhaps this is common knowledge--It seems like a lot of the brake parts for the drum brake cars came from Cushman Haulster brakes--I've had success finding brake shoes that look identical to mine by searching eBay for "Cushman Haulster Truckster brakes."
I haven't ordered any yet, but a set of four can be found for around $50-$60 -- which seems like a good price compared to the evperformance website.
(Here's an eBay link for 4, $44.45: )
I have other links as well, if anyone is interested--the above is simply the lowest price.
I'm curious if anyone has discovered this and found out if the cushman haulster/truckster brakes are the same? They look identical...
- Jacob Field
1980 Gold ComutaCar
CONFIDENTIAL NOTICE: If you are not the intended recipient of this message, you are not authorized to intercept, read, print, retain, copy, forward, or disseminate this communication. This communication may contain information that is proprietary, attorney/client
privileged, attorney work product, confidential or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately either by phone or by return e-mail, and destroy all copies of this message, electronic,
paper, or otherwise.
|
Re: Way to find brake parts for drum brake cars
You are correct. I have Cushman truckster/haulster shoes on my car now.?
?
Hi All,
Perhaps this is common knowledge--It seems like a lot of the brake parts for the drum brake cars came from Cushman Haulster brakes--I've had success finding brake shoes that look identical to mine by searching eBay for "Cushman Haulster Truckster brakes."
I haven't ordered any yet, but a set of four can be found for around $50-$60 -- which seems like a good price compared to the evperformance website.
(Here's an eBay link for 4, $44.45: )
I have other links as well, if anyone is interested--the above is simply the lowest price.
I'm curious if anyone has discovered this and found out if the cushman haulster/truckster brakes are the same? They look identical...
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
Re: Brakes are utterly useless--how do I fix them?
Sorry but I had to sell my Citi on a moment's notice and had not yet
gotten around to photographing several mods.
The procedure was fairly simple.? At about 2" below the windshield, I
used masking tape to set up a straight line.? I bought the finest
toothed blade for my rotary saw and mounted it backwards.? That results
in practically no chipping.? Make sure you don't hit any metal.? There
is, of course, a metal tube on each side where the body turns down.?
There are 2 narrow bars, each about 2 inches from center.? I cut those
spans with a very fine blade and a speed-controlled Dremel Tool.
The ABS is attached to the frame with adhesive.? Very difficult to
loosen.? I used a heat gun at a distance to apply gentle heat until the
adhesive softend and could? be pulled away.
The attached photo from the 72 volt conversion will give you some idea
of the topology.? The hood on this one was cut on the pipe supporting
the windshield.? That was a mistake.? I never did get it waterproof.
I bent and pop-riveted a 2" wide x 1/8" aluminum bar (No TIG welder at
the time.) positioned so that the stationary part of the body overlapped
a little less than half the bar.? Placing the bar required cut-outs on
both the vertical aluminum channels.? Dremel tool.
I bought some piano hinge, cut it in halves and mounted it hinge-up to
the bar using small countersunk self-tapping screws (McMaster-Carr).? I
also bought some about 2" wide neoprene roll of strip. (McMasters).? For
waterproofing the sides and front, Adhesive-backed neoprene stripping an
inch wide is adequate.? Depending on how warped your "hood" is, you may
need some Dzus fasteners along the sides.? Mine didn't but others have
emailed me telling me they had to add fasteners.
Now we have the piano hinges mounted to the frame.? The next step is to
attach the 2" neoprene strip to water-proof the hinge.? What you're
going to do is cut several pieces of wood to use as wedges to lift the
body ABS off the hinge.? The adhesive to use is this
or
This is an extremely strong one part polyurethane epoxy that reacts with
water in the air.? Once cured, it is practically impossible to remove.
First apply a moderately heavy film to about 1/3" the width of the 2"
neoprene strip.? Starting at one end, work the strip with the adhesive
side UP between the ABS body and the piano hinge, removing the wedges as
you go.? Make sure the strip is long enough to bend around to meet the
side strips.? Once the strip is in place, work it around until the strip
is uniformly positioned under the ABS.? Let the adhesive cure for 1,
preferably 2 days.
While the adhesive is curing you can apply the side strips.? The
stripping McMaster sells has a high quality adhesive backing.? Most of
the stuff sold for automotive applications don't.? An alternative is to
get non-adhesive strip and use the 3M adhesive.
Simply strip off the backing (or apply the adhesive if using the 3M
stuff) and apply the stripping to the top of the frame tubing.? Make
sure all the OEM adhesive is removed.? At the top, make sure the end
butts up against the horz strip.? Again, let the adhesive cure for a day
or two.
Now comes the tough part.? Attaching the hood to the hinge and the
neoprene strip.? First, attach the hood to the hinge using pop-rivets
and washers on the ABS side.? This process isn't too bad, as the hinge
can be folded back so that the hood can be positioned against the car
with the hinge resting against the inside of the hood.? Pop-rivet the
hinge and hood at each end and carefully close the hood to make sure it
fits.? It should fit just fine.? Re-open the hood and pop-rivet the rest
of the holes.
Re-open the hood and make sure the 2" neoprene is sticking up.? The goal
is to attach the neoprene strip so that it covers the hinges and
preferably the hinge rivets. The way I did that task was to put a thin
coating of adhesive on the strip and held it in place with gaffer's tape
until the adhesive cured.
The last step is to make the interface between the hood and vertical
tubes water-tight.? Get some silicone grease or mold release.? Apply it
to the areas at the top of the hood where the hood overlaps neoprene.?
Close the hood and fill the gap between the hood and the neoprene with
the adhesive.? Make sure all gaps are filled.? Let the adhesive cure for
a couple of days, then open the hood.? The adhesive will break free
wherever there is mold release.
Hood Hold-down.
To hold the hood down, you can use something like this:
or
That's about it.
John
|
Way to find brake parts for drum brake cars
Hi All,
Perhaps this is common knowledge--It seems like a lot of the brake parts for the drum brake cars came from Cushman Haulster brakes--I've had success finding brake shoes that look identical to mine by searching eBay for "Cushman Haulster Truckster brakes."
I haven't ordered any yet, but a set of four can be found for around $50-$60 -- which seems like a good price compared to the evperformance website.
(Here's an eBay link for 4, $44.45: )
I have other links as well, if anyone is interested--the above is simply the lowest price.
I'm curious if anyone has discovered this and found out if the cushman haulster/truckster brakes are the same? They look identical...
- Jacob Field 1980 Gold ComutaCar
|
Re: Brakes are utterly useless--how do I fix them?
When I get home I certainly will.
Mark
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: C-Car@... <C-Car@...>
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2019 11:43 AM
To: C-Car@...
Subject: Re: [C-Car] Brakes are utterly useless--how do I fix them?
?
?
"I have a hood on my Citicar that I just Pop open to get to the wiring, master cylinder, battery etc."
I'm wondering if you could post pictures of your hood opening???
?
?
I have a hood on my Citicar that I just Pop open to get to the wiring, master cylinder, battery etc.
?
From: C-Car@... <C-Car@...>
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2019 6:45 AM
To: C-Car@...
Subject: Re: [C-Car] Brakes are utterly useless--how do I fix them? [1 Attachment]
?
?
Mine is still missing the complete pedal and reseivor assembly so I really have troubles.? HOWEVER those of you having trouble bleeding the brakes might try gravity bleeding them.
open the wheel bleed screws after filling the resivor and just leave them open the air will be forced out with the weight of the fluid. Keep an eye on the level if possible. It just might work for you.? P.S. anyone have an extra master cylinder and pedal assembly
lying around
< div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size: 16px;">
?
?
Best way I found is to use two people. The resivor is so small that you have to keep it toped off after 3 pumps of the brakes when flushing. Also put a old shirt around the
?bottom of it. I spilled fluid out of it while filling since your arm is in such a weird spot. Also I removed the driver door to make it a little easier to get to the resivor.
Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android Device
-------- Original message --------
Date: 4/17/19 6:03 AM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: RE: [C-Car] Brakes are utterly useless--how do I fix them?
?
I have the same problem.? I replaced everything on all 4 wheels but I must have a bunch of air in the lines after trying to bleed them over and over.
From:
C-Car@... <C-Car@...>
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2019 8:34 PM
To: C-Car@...
Subject: [C-Car] Brakes are utterly useless--how do I fix them?
When I bought my CCar, the brakes (while they worked) weren't good and I figured they could use some work. Here's what I've done so far:
-
Replaced the master cylinder. I did bench-bleed it.
-
(tried to) Rebuild the left rear brake cylinder. It was leaking, so I got it new rubber, honed it, and put it back together. It still leaks, but not as bad now... The internal metal piece was
bent out of shape on the new rubber on the side that leaks (Still). I wonder if that it the cause of the leak.
-
I adjusted all the brakes, though I've never done it before. They worked much better afterwards (testing the car at 1-5MPH rolling).
Here's the problem--despite everything I've done, the brakes somehow manage to be
worse than when I bought the car! Other than that leaking cylinder, I don't see anything wrong with the system. The pads and drums should be fine, the car has under 2K on it.
Anyone have any tips for how to get the brakes back to working condition?
(To give an idea of how bad they are: 10MPH, foot down to the floor, and the brakes do
almost nothing. If I was on level ground, I might stop after 20-30 feet.)
?
CONFIDENTIAL NOTICE: If you are not the intended recipient of this message, you are not authorized to intercept, read, print, retain, copy, forward, or disseminate this communication.
This communication may contain information that is proprietary, attorney/client privileged, attorney work product, confidential or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately either
by phone or by return e-mail, and destroy all copies of this message, electronic, paper, or otherwise.
?
?
CONFIDENTIAL NOTICE: If you are not the intended recipient of this message, you are not authorized to intercept, read, print, retain, copy, forward, or disseminate this communication. This communication may contain information
that is proprietary, attorney/client privileged, attorney work product, confidential or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately either by phone or by return e-mail, and destroy
all copies of this message, electronic, paper, or otherwise.
CONFIDENTIAL NOTICE: If you are not the intended recipient of this message, you are not authorized to intercept, read, print, retain, copy, forward, or disseminate this communication. This communication may contain information that is proprietary, attorney/client
privileged, attorney work product, confidential or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately either by phone or by return e-mail, and destroy all copies of this message, electronic,
paper, or otherwise.
|
NeonJohn
Peter Crisitello