Do you have a grinder?? If so, get some high speed steel bits and learn how to grind them.

On Monday, April 28, 2025 at 02:14:47 PM EDT, Lbrewer42 via <lbrewer_42=[email protected]> wrote:

The great people on this group suggested which QCTP for me to buy for my Atlas 10".? So I got the recommended BOSTAR AXA 250-111 Wedge Type Tool Post Tool Holder Set for Lathe 6-12".? I got it with a 10 piece set:

251-111 (1 Set) AXA Size Wedge Type Tool Post?
250-101 (2PC) Turning & Facing Tool Holder, use tool bits up to 1/2"
250-102 (1PC) Boring, Turning & Facing Tool holder use Tool Bits up to 1/2"?
250-101XL (2PC) Oversize Slot Turning & Facing Tool Holder use tool bits up to 5/8"
250-102XL (1PC) Oversize Slot Boring, Turning & Facing Tool holder use Tool Bits up to 5/8"?
250-104 (1PC) Heavy Duty Boring Bar Holder, can use 5/8" and 3/4" two size shank boring bars
250-107 (1PC) Parting Blade Tool Holder, use 1/2" height parting blades
And (1PC) Two Wheel Knurling Tool can be used separately with any square tool bit holder

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I am now looking for recommendations on buying the tool bits for this unit and its parts.? I was told by one friend I want tool holders with replaceable carbide tips.? ?I have done some looking online and now am coming here for the opinions of multiple people with actual experience/advice/trusted sources/links etc.? I am a total newbie who has had some fun with just turning down some metal.? I have been told the Chinesium versions are OK for beginners, but not sure if I don't just want to get a decent set right away (without breaking the bank though!)? ?

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The machine came with some carbide inserts (proper term?) but no tool to attach them to.

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As always thanks for any help,

Lee

The great people on this group suggested which QCTP for me to buy for my Atlas 10".? So I got the recommended BOSTAR AXA 250-111 Wedge Type Tool Post Tool Holder Set for Lathe 6-12".? I got it with a 10 piece set:

251-111 (1 Set) AXA Size Wedge Type Tool Post?
250-101 (2PC) Turning & Facing Tool Holder, use tool bits up to 1/2"
250-102 (1PC) Boring, Turning & Facing Tool holder use Tool Bits up to 1/2"?
250-101XL (2PC) Oversize Slot Turning & Facing Tool Holder use tool bits up to 5/8"
250-102XL (1PC) Oversize Slot Boring, Turning & Facing Tool holder use Tool Bits up to 5/8"?
250-104 (1PC) Heavy Duty Boring Bar Holder, can use 5/8" and 3/4" two size shank boring bars
250-107 (1PC) Parting Blade Tool Holder, use 1/2" height parting blades
And (1PC) Two Wheel Knurling Tool can be used separately with any square tool bit holder

?

I am now looking for recommendations on buying the tool bits for this unit and its parts.? I was told by one friend I want tool holders with replaceable carbide tips.? ?I have done some looking online and now am coming here for the opinions of multiple people with actual experience/advice/trusted sources/links etc.? I am a total newbie who has had some fun with just turning down some metal.? I have been told the Chinesium versions are OK for beginners, but not sure if I don't just want to get a decent set right away (without breaking the bank though!)? ?

?

The machine came with some carbide inserts (proper term?) but no tool to attach them to.

?

As always thanks for any help,

Lee

On Apr 29, 2025, at 4:52?PM, Russell Hughes via groups.io <russellhugheskj@...> wrote:

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I'll nxs

On Tue, Apr 29, 2025, 5:02?PM Lbrewer42 via <lbrewer_42=[email protected]> wrote:

A big thanks to everyone.? Including all replies here rather than trying to go down through the list.? I hope everyone is OK with that!

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I should have mentioned I do plan on using/learning to grind HSS as well (3 benchtop grinding wheel units and a grinding wheel attachment/tool for the lathe, I'd better LOL!)? What turning I have done has only been been with HSS.? I just wanted both options and was looking for links with proven tools from experienced people here.? Thankfully I have a lot of tooling that came with my system and that includes some of the replaceable carbide inserts, but not the tool holders for them.

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As to knurling, I also appreciate the info on that.? I had already seen where I need to make it into a scissors type holder.? I bought the package deal after doing a lot of math deciding to convert mine after I got it.??

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I also appreciate the tips on sharpening carbide.? I knew it could be done.? I have done a lot of research online and done a lot of research (handicapped not always able to get hands on right away), have the Mr. Pete video series I bought for Atlas Lathes he made as well as made a page of notes when watching each section.? Just need to get the nads on part now as well.? I and have also been watching Blondie hacks as well as other online videos.??

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Now, having said all of that, and I very much appreciate everyone pointing me in the directions thay have and you can be sure I will be using HSS, I still would like to know recommended tooling to hold the carbide inserts I already have LOL!? I am just trying to make sure to avoid any unknown problems/mistakes I may be unaware of.

HSS is high speed steel. Harder and tougher than High Carbon Tool Steels, but doesn't take as good an edge. You remember correctly on HSS replacing HCTS for a lot of uses, and about when, too.?

Alox (gray) wheels work fine with either steel, but coarse wheels leave deeper & wider scratches that can weaken the edge. And if you grind parallel to the edge, the edge may just break right off. Bad news when that happens. Leaves a very rough surface.?

I have used mild steel to cut aluminum. It's not nearly as hard or durable as either HSS or HCTS, but still harder than most alloys of aluminum. Not recommended, but doable if necessary. Can also be case hardened, to make it harder right at a very thin edge, but if you can, real steel is much preferable. Mild steel isn't really steel, just non-fibrous iron. Has to have more carbon added to be actual steel.?

Yes, I've done a lot of stupid, pointless stuff. ??

Took me nearly forever to find a lathe i could afford when I found it. Longer still to figure out some of the stuff I'd forgotten, and longer than that to actually learn some of the smartest ways to do some things.?

Bill in OKC?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?

SEMPER GUMBY!

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.

Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.

On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 09:40:25 PM CDT, jmartin957 <jmartin957@...> via groups.io <jmartin957@...> wrote:

By HHS, do you mean High Carbon Steel, High Speed Steel, or something else?

If it's HCS, you're right in that the pink or white AlOx stones are preferred, although you can go coarser than 80 grit.? The critical thing there is to not let the steel get to where it forms oxide colors or you've ruined its temper.? Dipping in water before it gets that hot, or running on a wet wheel, are the ways to go.

HSS may be treated differently.? You can get it to a red heat without ruining it.? Most importantly, you should never dip it in water to cool it - even from a much lower heat.? The shock of cooling it that quickly may induce microscopic fractures at the cutting edge, which will cause that edge to break down in use.

I started wood turning when carbon steel tools were all that were available.? Many turners ruined their tools by getting them too hot in sharpening, which was a major reason behind the switch to HSS tools.? But the carbon steel tools have a smaller grain structure than HSS tools, which allows them to take a sharper edge.? Not by much, but sharper.? HSS will hold its edge longer.

For metalworking, HSS replaced carbon steel very shortly after it was developed - very early 1900's, IIRC.

On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 03:06:24 PM EDT, Larry Hoelscher via groups.io <lgh1330@...> wrote:

For sharpening HHS bits you should use a pink vitrified stone 80grit will remove the steel quick enough.? The pink will wear but that only gets you too sharper grit.? 120 is to fine and slow to get the job done.? Remember that slow just burns the HHS and dulls/softens the metal.? Use only one stone for sharpening.? Those grey hard stones does not break down to get to new gandules on the wheel.? Always use a hand wet stone to polish the edge.? I use a japanese water stone for honing.? Do not use a gold waterstone 1200 grit, to soft and will rut the stone.? One grinder for lathe tools,? sorry but those cheap hard standard stones do NOT work well for tooling.? When I taught machine shop in high school we had 2"X2" wood models showing how each tool should look like.? Big enough to see and help kids learn angles.? Grind away grasshopper

On Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 12:44?PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:

I have actually sharpened the cheap brazed carbide tools. With an Alox wheel. When I bought the HF mini-lathe, I bought the sets of brazed tools they had. Noticed that the "cutting edge" was not touching the material I was trying to cut. The bottom edge of the chip of carbide is what was making contact. All I had at the time was an alox wheel, and it did reshape that carbide chip. Probably not the best grade of carbide...

Didn't find it satisfactory even so, and had many adventures trying to get that lathe to produce good parts which led me to join the Yahoo groups, and finally takeca class that convinced me it was the "stick actuator" not the lathe that was the problem. ?

Learned in my class to measure things accurately, and sharpen my own HSS tooling, and that took care of my problems. Not getting in a rush seems to take care of everything else. ?

Bill in OKC?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?

SEMPER GUMBY!

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.

Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.

On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 11:57:49 AM CDT, jmartin957 <jmartin957@...> via <jmartin957=[email protected]> wrote:

Grinding your own cutters will teach you a lot about different clearance and rake angles, chipbreaker grooves, form tools, etc.? I think that over many years I have only bought a box or two of new HSS bits - most have come from flea markets, garage sales and the like.? Nothing wrong with used HSS bits - they may not be the very latest alloys, but should work fine for you.? And someone else has already done the shaping.

In my 6" Atlas, I use two homemade four-way tool blocks, made to hold 3/8" bits at center height.? Takes only a few seconds to rotate the blocks to use a different bit, only a few seconds more to switch the blocks.? So I've got up to eight different cutters ready to go.? Usually no need to perfectly align the cutters perpendicularly to the lathe axis, even with parting tools.? Eyeball is good enough.? More rigid than a quick change tool post.

In my 13" Standard Modern, I use a wedge-type quick change tool post - which is what I got it with.? Carbide insert toolholders more often than HSS, but not always.? Parting tools are HSS.? Many of my carbide insert toolholders are those from very large lathes - 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" square, which I dovetailed to fit the QCTP.

You can sharpen carbide on a bench grinder, using a green silicon carbide wheel.? I don't bother sharpening carbide inserts, but do touch up brazed carbide tools when necessary.? The green wheels do not get carbide razor sharp, though.? Diamond wheels are better.

Carbide tooling is a handy thing to have on occasion, particularly when turning hard steels that would quickly dull HSS.? Although you can run it at a high speed, you don't have to.? Cutting internal threads in pre-hardened 4140, I used carbide threading inserts.? You can bet that I didn't run them at the speed that they would have tolerated.? And you can bet that they gave me a perfect thread profile, and pass a go/no go gauge test..

You'll probably want some carbide, but HSS bits will meet most of your needs.? And don't throw out the lantern tool post if you got one with your lathe - you won't often need it, but there are times when you will.

On Tuesday, April 29, 2025 at 07:43:15 AM EDT, Kevin B. via <appskrb=[email protected]> wrote:

Hi Lee,

I have a similar set,? I think you'll find that some of those for larger tooling are? a little overkill for these machines. I just about only use 3/8? and 1/4"? HSS bits.? If you use the?

knurling tool as is , chuck material as close to the chuck as you can, and use a center if you can... it puts a lot of load on these machines. I took the wheels off mine and made a scissors action. ? Parting: can increase your heart rate. Really, really, really sharpen the blade, I use the small diamond stick thingies. (think like fingernail file) and lots and lots of cutting oil and with the parting tool sticking out only the amount you need. May the force be with you.

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HHS bits: Yep, never hurts to learn how to grind them. If you want to practice that I'd try starting with 1/4", it's a little faster and? less material to remove. You do need a grinder and sharp wheel. If you need a grinder, I'd go 8". mrpete22 has lots and lots of how to videos.? blondiehacks is good too. But, while your mastering your grinding skills, you might think about HSS inserts. Skip the carbide. carbide wants speed and rigidity. (my friends told me to get em too... NG).?? HHS inserts you can sharpen, unlike carbide.? Little Machine shop sells them I believe.

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My $.02

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Enjoy

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Kevin B.