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Atlas Craftsman 3950 back gear question
#10d-260
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I am new to the forum. New to metal working. New to lathes.
I am...a total newbie! Just got my first lathe, Atlas 3950, knowing it was a hobby lathe, but just to get started and see if I even liked working on a lathe. I have cleaned up everything and was starting to do a walk through from the manual I got with it. I ran into a problem with engaging the back gear drive. I have seen the video where you pull out the coupling to disengage the pulley and gear so you can engage the back gear but, the problem is I can't pull out the coupling. It is aligned with the keyway and I can wiggle it around a bit, but it will not pull out. I have tried shooting some WD40 in to see if it act to release it, but no go. Hopefully the attached pictures will give an idea of what it looks like. Is there anything I am missing here? Anything I can do about it? Really appreciate the help. |
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You need a tool to remove the circlip or snapring. If you're in the US, these will work:
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Also available at any auto parts place. A pair of needlenose pliers may work. There are two kinds, inside & outside, or combination tools that will do either depending on the position of the pivot screw. The one in the link is a combination tool. HTH! Bill in OKC -------------------------------------------- On Sun, 2/17/19, <dnotti@...> wrote:
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas Craftsman 3950 back gear question #10d-260 To: [email protected] Date: Sunday, February 17, 2019, 6:40 PM I am new to the forum. New to metal working. New to lathes. I am...a total newbie! Just got my first lathe, Atlas 3950, knowing it was a hobby lathe, but just to get started and see if I even liked working on a lathe. I have cleaned up everything and was starting to do a walk through from the manual I got with it. I ran into a problem with engaging the back gear drive. I have seen the video where you pull out the coupling to disengage the pulley and gear so you can engage the back gear but, the problem is I can't pull out the coupling. It is aligned with the keyway and I can wiggle it around a bit, but it will not pull out. I have tried shooting some WD40 in to see if it act to release it, but no go. Hopefully the attached pictures will give an idea of what it looks like. Is there anything I am missing here? Anything I can do about it? Really appreciate the help. |
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dnotti: Why are you showing us pictures of the small end of the pulley.?? The bull gear pin #10-256, that disingages the pulley from the back gear is located on the large end of the pulley.? The only thing that holds the bull gear pin in place is a small spring and a small ball bearing that rests in a small detent that is on the flat surface of the bull gear pin.? I will see if I can get you some pics for your better understanding of the issue that your trying to do. On Sun, Feb 17, 2019 at 8:44 PM Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote: You need a tool to remove the circlip or snapring. If you're in the US, these will work: |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýLarry, ? He has an Atlas 3950.? The headstock and belt drive is nothing like the earlier Atlas lathes.? The 3950 manual is in Files.? Downoload it and you will see what I mean.? It has 8 speeds and no countershaft.? And only one belt.? The motor pulley is 4-step.? The other end of the sleeve in the center of the cone pulley in his photo engages the small end of the compound gear that replaces the bull gear and the small spindle gear, locking it to the cone pulley for direct drive.? There is no direct drive pin. ? Robert Downs ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Larry Hoelscher
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2019 21:51 To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas Craftsman 3950 back gear question #10d-260 ? dnotti: Why are you showing us pictures of the small end of the pulley.?? The bull gear pin #10-256, that disingages the pulley from the back gear is located on the large end of the pulley? The only thing that holds the bull gear pin in place is a small spring and a small ball bearing that rests in a small detent that is on the flat surface of the bull gear pin.? I will see if I can get you some pics for your better understanding of the issue that your trying to do. ? On Sun, Feb 17, 2019 at 8:44 PM Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:
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dnotti I have a 3950 and fnd that there is "one" place it will engage and dis-engage.? With the the back gear lever out-the spindle and drive pulley free wheeling I marked the pulley and kept moving the spindle till I fnd the spot it would engage-disengage and marked the spindle.?? Hope this helps. Jack |
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Jack,
I am new to this so please bear with me. I think I understand what you are saying with regard to the process... Here is the video I have been watching? At about the 9 minute mark it shows him taking hold of the coupling and pulling it out and turning it to disengage the pulley and gear. I think that is what you are describing. I cannot do that on my machine. I don't know if it was damaged or if it is all gummed up inside, but I can't get it to pull out or rotate. I am leery of trying to force it, but don't know what else to do. Does that help describe my dilemma. Any thoughts? Thanks, Dan |
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dnotti The u-tube is correct, starting at about 9:40.? It will not move till that "one" spot is lined up.? Will your 4 step pulley not free wheel? Yes the spindle part #34 on my part list has a key part 32 on the right hand end that i believe engages the coupling.? Also. on the backside of the 4 step pulley there is oiler.? You might get some oil in there and/or some wd40 in the front around the coupler.? It has? been over 15 years since I had mine apart, just remember the same frustration your having.?? Jack |
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dnotti Also, on the back of the 4 step pulley there is a gear that is attached to the pulley on some sort of shaft, not?labeled on the parts dia, but shown, that I can see. From your pictures I believe it is in the locked position so it just needs to be freed up, and that is the position where you would mark the coupling and?the pulley.? If I remember right I put a piece of pvc pipe and a hose clamp on the coupling so I could get a grip on it. Your right--Don't force it... Good luck Where are you located? Jack |
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Thanks so much Jack!
A friend came over and we were able to prize it off after removing the spring clip. Seems someone, in their infinite wisdom, got frustrated and forced it in and burred the key way on the coupling, essential freezing it in position. Scarred up the shaft a bit as well. We got it off, got everything honed and polished up and now it works great! I really appreciate the help!! I am in Fullerton, CA. (BTW Clausing won't ship parts to me because of that :( ) Dan |
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Jack...
Meridian, really! A really good friend of mine just moved there for a job...and then lost it. I would trade places with you in a heartbeat! I am loving it already and I haven't turned a thing yet. Got it running today and ran through all the options. Works great, though noisy with the back gear engaged, and everything seems pretty tight. Now for some tooling and some experimenting. Thanks again, Dan |
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Dan Do you have Operating Instructions for the 3950?? If yes, they show setting the clearance for the back-gear.? That and putting a little heavy open gear grease on the gears really quiets them down.? If you don't have the manual it might be available on this site or over on the "Hobby Machinist" site. They have a pretty active grp there under "Atlas-Craftsman" type machines.? And "Robert Downs" the admin here, is also over there and is a great resource.? I put a "Little machine shop" OXA size #3112 QC tool post on my 3950 and it works great. What kind of work was your friend after?? The area is going crazy for most stuff. E-mail if I can be of further help. Jack |
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Jack,
I do have a copy of the Operating Manual and I also picked up The Atlas Lathe Manual for background. I am waiting for some CRC Extreme Duty Open Gear and Chain Lube that someone on one of the other sites recommended for the gears. I am going to give that a try. I just ordered a tool post off of Ebay () that seems to be very similar, only cheaper, and I will be putting that on. Also got some inexpensive indexable carbide tooling to get started with. Hopefully that will be here by the weekend. Trying to keep my costs down as I get started -- not so easy I am finding out! Would love a "mentor" on this little machine and appreciate the offer of help...which I am sure I will need! How do I get your email? He moved there to take a senior copywriting manager job with Scentsy. Didn't work out and he is looking for something in the same vein. Dan |
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Dan How well equiped is your lathe?? The Atlas lathe manual isn't specific to your lathe but has a lot of good info in it. Depending your experience and what you expect to do with your lathe you might find that HSS steel cutters will work better in your lathe.? The down-side is you'll need to learn to grind them.? The plus side is the're?a lot cheaper. The add for your QC looks like it takes 1/4 or 5/16 tooling, but does'nt say so.? My experience is that unless you buy expensive carbide inserts, they are not very sharp.? Also carbide has to be run a LOT faster to give any sort of decent finish, even when sharp.?? If you hold your cursor over my "FROM" name it should give you my e-mail.?? Have a good evening Jack |
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It came with a decent amount of options and a lot of 1/4" tooling blanks. Some looked like they had been ground to test certain shapes. I will look through them again and see if there are any I can use immediately.
I will eventually be grinding my own as I have read that the HSS tooling works better on this size lathe, as you have stated. As a complete novice I am saving the tool grinding for stage two of my journey into the world of lathes, hence my choice of the carbide tools. The QC will take 3/8" tooling but the seller recommended 1/4" carbide tooling for light work -- which is what I will be doing to begin with. As to the email...I get the posts in bulk and don't have the option of hovering over the sender. If you can email me at the above email, assuming you can see it, I would appreciate it. Thanks again, Dan |
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Just FYI, there is HSS insert tooling available in sizes suitable for your small lathe. ?
Kind of expensive IMO, but if you are looking for high speed steel rather than carbide, and are put off by freehand grinding your tool bits, this may be worth considering. ? Contact Arthur R Warner Co. ?Latrobe, Pa ?723 539 9229. ?This contact info is rather dated, and if no longer valid, their website is listed ?as . Hope this is helpful. ? |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý??? ??? I have been using their HSS inserts for several years & like them alot ??? ??? animal On 2/19/2019 2:46 PM, j7g3jj via
Groups.Io wrote:
Just FYI, there is HSS insert tooling available in sizes suitable for your small lathe. ? |
Bill in OKC too
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