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What do You have?


Johnson, John
 

Hello everyone on Atlas_Craftsman!
I thought maybe we could all begin by telling each other what we have to get
things rolling.

I have a Craftsman 12x36 M/N 101.28990 with: Stand, QC, Milling Attachment,
Buck 3-Jaw Chuck, Craftsman 4-jaw. I purchased it used last year form a
friend in the Live Steam club who was getting on in years and has health
problems. He kept his 6" Craftsman. He purchased it new at Sears in
1975-76. Still had the original operating manual and parts manual, which I
now have. I can make copies of these if anyone needs them. I have since
added a QC tool post. Made a big improvement in the work.

OK, What do you have?

John D.L. Johnson, MBA, C.G.C.M.
Manager, University Printing Services
California State University, Chico
400 W First St
Chico, CA 95929-0275
(530) 898-5992 ext. 1
fax (530) 898-6824
jjohnson@...
www.csuchico.edu/prnt


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Marty Escarcega
 

I have a Craftsman 12x36 M/N 101.28990 with: Stand, QC, Milling
Attachment, Buck 3-Jaw Chuck, Craftsman 4-jaw. I purchased it used last
year form a friend in the Live Steam club who was getting on in years and
has health problems. He kept his 6" Craftsman. He purchased it new at
Sears in 1975-76. Still had the original operating manual and parts
manual, which I now have. I can make copies of these if anyone needs
them. I have since added a QC tool post. Made a big improvement in the
Hi John,
I recently acquired a Craftsman/Atlas 12x36" lathe. This was the
lathe made before the "Commercial" Craftsman lathe. It has the
roller bearing headstock vs. the old babbit bearing type. I'm a
newbie, got great information and help from many of the users now
here on the list. Hoping to get "intimate" with the lathe and tear it
down and rebuild it. Got the parts manual from Clausing, as well as
the Atlas Lathe Operations book. Its an excellent book in my opinion
for new folks to the hobby and lathe. The old South Bend, How to
Run a lathe is another excellent reference. I got some tooling with it
and am working on the milling attachment, as it will probably have to
suffice until I can afford a mill (not in the near future)...

I am curious to know what kind of benches you folks have made for
your lathes? I need to make one, and was thinking of doubling up a
pair of solid core doors. I've also heard that steel stands are better.
Also a concern about leveling up the lathe and bolting it down.

Any thoughs or comments?

Marty

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Marty-

I have 12x36 presently mounted on old steel desk(like a teacher's desk) Works
very well with the added benefit of storage already there for tooling. Am
moving the lathe soon and just finshed a new bench with a single solid core
door for a top. Don't believe a double is necessary. More important to have
a solid and massive framework supporting the door(top) than to have 2 doors.

John

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Martin A. Escarcega
 

Thanks for the reply, what are you going to use or did you use for the
framework? I think Ron Thibault (excuse the spelling please Ron!),
(another user) did the same thing, he used a steel desk. I thought
it was a good idea. But at this time I don't have one....
Marty

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On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 Cretedog@... wrote:

Marty-

I have 12x36 presently mounted on old steel desk(like a teacher's desk) Works
very well with the added benefit of storage already there for tooling. Am
moving the lathe soon and just finshed a new bench with a single solid core
door for a top. Don't believe a double is necessary. More important to have
a solid and massive framework supporting the door(top) than to have 2 doors.

John

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Ronald Thibault
 

At 12:35 PM 1/6/99 EST, you wrote:
Marty-

I have 12x36 presently mounted on old steel desk(like a teacher's desk) Works
very well with the added benefit of storage already there for tooling. Am
moving the lathe soon and just finshed a new bench with a single solid core
door for a top. Don't believe a double is necessary. More important to have
a solid and massive framework supporting the door(top) than to have 2 doors.

John

Gang;
Marty already knows about my setup, but the rest of you may not. I
have an old (60+ years) 12 X 24 Craftsman lathe with an Atlas roller bearing
headstock. As John has it is also set on a steel office desk, which in turn
is set directly (legs removed) on a course and a half of cinder blocks.
On top of the desk is a chip pan covering most of the surface, made
from two auto motive drip pans siamesed together. On top of this and under
each foot is a 1/2 X 4 HRS bar running front to back to spread the load
evenly across the factory steel channels that form the desk top's support.
The lathe is then set on top of the bars.
The cinder blocks raise the desk higher than when the legs were on,
and position the lathe at a comfortable working height.
My Web Page has a write up of my restoration (on going) of this
lathe and a FQA on a variety of topics related to Atlas lathes. It also has
articles on my two main hobbies R/C Warship Combat and building a 7.5" gauge
live steam locomotive. Check them out you might find one of them
interesting. <www.toast.net/~thibault>
I hope to both help the members of this forum, and learn from them!
My participation for the next week or so may be spotty. My new
computer had to be returned for service, and my old (this one) computer has
been acting up.

Ron Thibault
North Augusta, SC
USA
<www.toast.net/~thibault>


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Jon Elson
 

Johnson, John wrote:

Hello everyone on Atlas_Craftsman!
I thought maybe we could all begin by telling each other what we have to get
things rolling.
I used to have a 10" Atlas, originally with babbit bearings and change gears.
I upgraded it to roller bearings and quick change. I recently traded up to
a 12 x 36" Atlas/Craftsman, with quick change. I have a Phase-II knockoff
of the Aloris-style toolpost (a real MUST) a Phase-II 8" adjustable 3-jaw
chuck, a TheMac J-4 toolpost grinder, an ancient 4-jaw chuck, and a lot
of assorted bits and pieces. I also have a follow rest and steady rest.

I also have a Bridgeport mill (converted to CNC), a Roper-Whitney 5-ton punch,
a 3' finger brake, and the ubiquitous 4 x 6" Hor/vert bandsaw.

Jon


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Ron;
Your page sounds interesting but I can';t load it.Do you have a COMPLETE email address?



<038bf1740010719mail0-@...> wrote:
Original Article:
At 12:35 PM 1/6/99 EST, you wrote:
Marty-

I have 12x36 presently mounted on old steel desk(like a teacher's desk) Works
very well with the added benefit of storage already there for tooling. Am
moving the lathe soon and just finshed a new bench with a single solid core
door for a top. Don't believe a double is necessary. More important to have
a solid and massive framework supporting the door(top) than to have 2 doors.

John

Gang;
Marty already knows about my setup, but the rest of you may not. I
have an old (60+ years) 12 X 24 Craftsman lathe with an Atlas roller bearing
headstock. As John has it is also set on a steel office desk, which in turn
is set directly (legs removed) on a course and a half of cinder blocks.
On top of the desk is a chip pan covering most of the surface, made
from two auto motive drip pans siamesed together. On top of this and under
each foot is a 1/2 X 4 HRS bar running front to back to spread the load
evenly across the factory steel channels that form the desk top's support.
The lathe is then set on top of the bars.
The cinder blocks raise the desk higher than when the legs were on,
and position the lathe at a comfortable working height.
My Web Page has a write up of my restoration (on going) of this
lathe and a FQA on a variety of topics related to Atlas lathes. It also has
articles on my two main hobbies R/C Warship Combat and building a 7.5" gauge
live steam locomotive. Check them out you might find one of them
interesting. <www.toast.net/~thibault>
I hope to both help the members of this forum, and learn from them!
My participation for the next week or so may be spotty. My new
computer had to be returned for service, and my old (this one) computer has
been acting up.

Ron Thibault
North Augusta, SC
USA
<www.toast.net/~thibault>

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Ronald Thibault
 

At 10:01 PM 1/18/99 -0000, you wrote:
Ron;
Your page sounds interesting but I can';t load it.Do you have a COMPLETE
email address?


The full address of the Page is

I just tested it and both IE 4 and Netscape 4.5 can see it. If you
have an older version of either, that my be the problem. Both MS and
Netscape have free down loads of their latest, at their web sites.

Ronald Thibault
North Augusta, SC USA



Builder Miinie #2
Captain R/C Combat Ship USS Arizona


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Bob & Marilyn Tonkins
 

Thanks Ron for the trouble you took to answer. I DID connect on NN4. After viewing
and surfing off your page, even as a 20-year-vet of the machine shop, I am
impressed by your professionalism. As a one-time fellow "boater" I lost the only
boat I ever owned (a 2-foot battery electric non-RC) on a St. Louis lake. Some
acquaintances nearly interested me in the (almost certainly) illegal effort to
mount a .22 caliber and .38 caliber on an R.C. for "mock" battles. (I was an avid
builder/shooter). Whatever! I say to you and yours . . . smooth sailing in all
your endeavors

Ronald Thibault wrote:

At 10:01 PM 1/18/99 -0000, you wrote:
Ron;
Your page sounds interesting but I can';t load it.Do you have a COMPLETE
email address?

The full address of the Page is

I just tested it and both IE 4 and Netscape 4.5 can see it. If you
have an older version of either, that my be the problem. Both MS and
Netscape have free down loads of their latest, at their web sites.

Ronald Thibault
North Augusta, SC USA



Builder Miinie #2
Captain R/C Combat Ship USS Arizona

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Ronald Thibault
 

At 02:38 PM 1/19/99 -0800, you wrote:
Thanks Ron for the trouble you took to answer. I DID connect on NN4. After
viewing
and surfing off your page, even as a 20-year-vet of the machine shop, I am
impressed by your professionalism. As a one-time fellow "boater" I lost the
only
boat I ever owned (a 2-foot battery electric non-RC) on a St. Louis lake. Some
acquaintances nearly interested me in the (almost certainly) illegal effort to
mount a .22 caliber and .38 caliber on an R.C. for "mock" battles. (I was
an avid
builder/shooter). Whatever! I say to you and yours . . . smooth sailing in all
your endeavors
Bob;
Thank you for the compliment.

Ronald Thibault
North Augusta, SC USA



Builder Miinie #2
Captain R/C Combat Ship USS Arizona


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vulcom1
 

--I have a th54 which I changed the mounting on last year. I was
using part of a solid door which I trimmed to fit. The new one is
three pieces of 3/4"composite glued and nailed together(2 1/4") on a
2x4 framework with cross pieces under the top. Then painted black
with a few coats of urethane. After leveling and checking every
couple of weeks I am quite happy. It hasn't moved.
John
- In atlas_craftsman@..., Ronald Thibault <thibault@t...>
wrote:
At 12:35 PM 1/6/99 EST, you wrote:
Marty-

I have 12x36 presently mounted on old steel desk(like a teacher's
desk) Works
very well with the added benefit of storage already there for
tooling. Am
moving the lathe soon and just finshed a new bench with a single
solid core
door for a top. Don't believe a double is necessary. More
important to have
a solid and massive framework supporting the door(top) than to
have 2 doors.

John

Gang;
Marty already knows about my setup, but the rest of you may
not. I
have an old (60+ years) 12 X 24 Craftsman lathe with an Atlas
roller bearing
headstock. As John has it is also set on a steel office desk,
which in turn
is set directly (legs removed) on a course and a half of cinder
blocks.
On top of the desk is a chip pan covering most of the
surface, made
from two auto motive drip pans siamesed together. On top of this
and under
each foot is a 1/2 X 4 HRS bar running front to back to spread the
load
evenly across the factory steel channels that form the desk top's
support.
The lathe is then set on top of the bars.
The cinder blocks raise the desk higher than when the legs
were on,
and position the lathe at a comfortable working height.
My Web Page has a write up of my restoration (on going) of
this
lathe and a FQA on a variety of topics related to Atlas lathes. It
also has
articles on my two main hobbies R/C Warship Combat and building a
7.5" gauge
live steam locomotive. Check them out you might find one of them
interesting. <www.toast.net/~thibault>
I hope to both help the members of this forum, and learn
from them!
My participation for the next week or so may be spotty. My
new
computer had to be returned for service, and my old (this one)
computer has
been acting up.

Ron Thibault
North Augusta, SC
USA
<www.toast.net/~thibault>


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