In theory, Raymond is right to be concerned about a twisted bed. A miniscule percentage of lathes might have a defective or damaged set of bed ways that will affect long cuts with a taper or diametral error. However, if the effect of the twist is to move the tailstock end of the workpiece toward or away from the cutting tool, it can best be eliminated by adjusting the offset on the tailstock. If the effect is to raise or lower the tailstock end of the workpiece relative to the cutting tool, that will only have a very small effect on the diameter of the cut because it is only tangentially affecting the depth of cut. What is being risked with a super stiff mounting (like a heavy duty diagonally braced and welded table or mounting rigidly to a granite surface plate) is that the process of tightening the four bolts of a light duty lathe bed to a super heavy rigid support will, itself, twist the bed. My solution is to mount my 10F to a reasonably sturdy frame of a 4" X 4" lumber workbench with let-in framing bolted together on all joints. I put two horizontal cross members at the location of the two bed mounting legs and add a light duty OSB 25/32" top to hold a chip pan, gooseneck light, and other accessories. Then, I only fasten three of the bed mounting bolts supported on washers. This makes a three-point mount that lets the bed flex under any heavy loads... Just like the three-point mounting on a 10EE. It has worked flawlessly for years. Of course, my bed is not twisted to start with.