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Jody, Unless you have access to a friend with the necessary carburizing heat treatment equipment, call around to find out if you can sneak in at a reduced price your part in someone else's next batch,

Good suggestion.? I might look at getting the 1018 carburized afterwards.? I don't see me using so much that I would have an issue. I think a case hardened steel will work.??-JodySent via the

"... 4140, also known as *ordnance* steel, was one of the early high-alloy steels, used in 1920s' aircraft frames and automotive axles in addition to rifle barrels." Ref:

I picked up an old kiln for $25 at a yard sale. I added a PID control and an SSR and it will maintain a set temp for whatever time you set. I mostly use it to melt aluminum but it makes a nice heat

GP, Okay, I believe you. You would do well to tell these people of their error also please? https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=6115 It gives the short list of specs for 1018. Thanks for

Perry said: "Any suggestions for finding small parts thrown by the wire wheel on the grinder" A couple of preemptive options are to attach some kind of handle to your part, it a nut, put it on a bolt,

Lots of people have built forges and furnaces by digging a hole in the ground. Or piling up dirt. Bricks, blocks, or rocks? too. A fan, a handful of feathers, or a shop vac to force draft. Scrap

Bill, I agree 110%! Some times you just have to work with whats available. When I made mine I just happened to come across a slug of 8620 that was free. I did not harden it, and has performed

Where is Jody going to get a forge and how will he keep it at 1000+ degrees for several hours? Typos are courtesy of autocorrect. ________________________________ Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020

Once the collet chuck is finished machined it must be hardened that also includes 4140?? GP

If you use "tool steel" and don't harden it that might even set you back!When you buy a slug of O1,? A2, whatever it's not even near ready!Bare, marginal minimum in my opinion would be 4140

Or you can put it in a metal box or can packed with carbon, scraps of leather or horn, or a few other things, seal it, and put it in a forge and keep it red-hot for several hours. Then dump and

As long as it's really true in the end.Dave?Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

1018 can be hardened by carburizing. It takes hours at high temperatures, it takes a special furnace where they pump carbon monoxide and sulphur and other stuff. Definitely not something you can do at

Glenn sticking 1018 in water will not harden its a waist of time GP

For hobby use, as hard as you can get it...When you are almost done with the taper, heat it to 1500F* and quench in water. Then grind the finish taper. First thing you should do IMO is make an 1 1/2 8

I send a drawing for you GP

JodyThe only thing you can have done to 1018 is case harden it. Case hardening will do for a while. The hardness is about 0.010 - 0.15 deep depends on who does it. You have to take it to a hardening

1018 is mild steel. It won't heat-treat, though you can case-harden it. It's ok to machine, HSS ground for steel and honed sharp will get you a decent finish. It won't last as long as 4140, it won't

So I went by the metal store by the house and picked up a 3" 1018 round bar drop off for a few bucks.? Very little round bar to choose from so I grabbed a piece of what they had since its only a few