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I'd delighted you have found this group of Z scaler's who want to enjoy model railroading at home, and promote Z scale by sharing the hobby in public shows. No question is too simple or complex. Someone will have the answer. Regards, Bill Kronenberger Houston

Rob: Here's a topic I tried to carefully note at the various modules at the NTS - module legs. (A) Dallas uses 2x2 lumber legs that just friction fit in slots in the corners of their modules. Pick up the module, and all the legs fall on the floor. For unknown reasons, their legs are NOT interchangeable, and setup time takes some time. Module wobble is OK, but not exceptional. The legs require a separate shipping box of some size to transport. Houston has several types of legs in search of the perfect leg. (B) Fold down metal utility table legs ($15) with extensions to get the 50 inches of height. It adds a few pounds, but setup time is zero. Module wobble is OK, but not exceptional. But there is no separate box of legs to transport. This concept only works when modules are longer than 55 inches for 50 inch legs. (C) On my experimental modules, I used screw-in PVC legs with electrical conduit for the strength member. It works well in that all legs are totally interchangeable, but I need to replace the heavy steel conduit with aluminum conduit to save weight. Legs are transported separately. Permanent legs were not possible on these modules which are less than 48" in maximum length. (D) One member uses a series of tables to support his giant sized modules. Its fairly stable, but requires a lot of "baggage" to transport. (E) On you modules, they appeared to be of a wood design very close to the married pair of 1x2 lumber legs described on the N scale Bend Track sight. Now my question. They appeared to be more stable than (A) thru (D) above, but I (stupidly) never went over and picked one up to check on the weight. Obviously the perfect leg would have zero setup time, zero weight and be as stable as a rock, and cost under $5 a set. Are you pleased with your design? How labor intensive was it to manufacture them? Would you ever connect them to the module with hinges to reduce setup time, and reduce the volue of "stuff" to be transported? Regards, Bill Kronenberger Houston

Thanks Rob for the information and link to this group. I am sure that I will end up building a module or 2 or 3 before I settle down with a fixed layout. As a matter of fact, I am quite excited about working out some of my concerns by using a modular approach. Probably, many questions will follow. Thanks, Jim Milne Roanoke, VA

Rob: < In short, I'm still looking for a better solution. I may try your fold down legs next. With a little modification (adjustable carriage bolts in the feet) I think they may be ideal. Of course, the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence. > You need better glasses. <smile> All the Z-Bend Track modules have adjustable carriage bolts on the legs (except for Dave's giant modules). The fold down table legs have 1" copper-plated-steel water pipe added to extend them to 50" in height, pop-riveted in place. Since its water pipe, we added standard water pipe "caps" on the end of the extension pipes (sweat soldered on) and put a "T" nut in a hole drilled in the cap. By the way, 1/4" hardware bends in a second. 3/8" hardware is hard to find, expensive and overkill. The best hardware appears to be 5/16" carriage bolts and T nuts. Regards, Bill Kronenberger Houston

Bill, I might suggest that you forward a copy of your response to the z- scale list regarding the use of the 8592 in module setup to this list message base. I believe Rob had cc to this list his reply to me, but for some reason, it is not showing up. Both emails are excellent and the worlds best module isn't very good if it remains a 'stand-a-lone'. Jim

Bill, Thanks for the welcome, I will now try to play catch up ;-) I did receive a copy of Z-Mod (blue book) 1st edition by Billy Roden. Is this the 'standard' by which my module(s) should be constructed? I am assuming (I know, bad to do) that 'Z-Mod' and 'Z-Bend Track module' are one and the same. Thanks, Jim Milne

Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the Z-Bend_Track group: Each of you has joined this small list for a different reason. Some, just for knowledge. Others, because they need a layout that can go from home to home over time. Still others have an interest in taking their home layouts out in public for shows as individuals, or as groups. With that broad range of interests, it would be nice to know what the "hot" topics are, and as a group address those first. Please indicate your most immediate interest(s) below (please limit yourself to two topics). This poll will close on August 3rd, so we can get right down to fun. Yahoo will email each of you the results directly. Thanks, you moderator. o Was is modular railroading o Basic concepts of module building o wood working issues o legs o tops (wood, foam, etc.) o how to create a scene on a module o how do you do "operations" on a module o modules with non-rectangular shapes o packing modules for travel o how to control crowds (and hands) o bridge track & getting modules fastened together o More on Z-Bend Track standards o Wiring - simplest form o Wiring - for control panels o I'm just listening to decide on modular To vote, please visit the following web page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Z-Bend_Track/polls Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups web site listed above. Thanks!

Thank you for your interest in this group which focuses on modular layouts. While I hope Z-Bend Track appeals to you, questions are not limited to just that style of modular construction. For those just arriving in the group, please take the time to answer a brief poll: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Z-Bend_Track/surveys?id=10125511 It will really help us all to see what the "hot" areas are, and see what hard-learned knowledge we can share with each other. The poll closes August 2nd. It takes about 40 skills to build a layout. 41 skills if you build modular. When I look at the membership list, I can really see some excellent talent on the list. Thanks, Your moderator Bill Kronenberger Houston

Thanks Rob and John for your insight on the DCC applications. I believe that it has laid some ground work for one of Bill's up and coming topics to be covered - 'Wiring...' - but I guess I couldn't vote for all the topics! Right Bill? Maybe another topic? 'Adding DCC to your module' I will just hold my questions till the appropriate moment ;-) since I do wish to incorporate transponder functions and turnout control, if at all possible. Rob: Please advise offline on the computer software - avilability etc you are using for DCC control. Bill: Thanks for not running the poll for 30 days - curious minds want to know! Regards, Jim Milne

Rob: (new folks: see the 1st couple of emails in "messages" to get caught up this discussion topic in progress.) I thought those module legs of yours were very stable on your modules at the NTS. There was zero wobble (side to side) when I pressed on your modules. And I'm not surprised that you walked on the modules during construction, they appear solid as a rock. Given the difficulty in assembly at shows you cited in a previous email, could you permanent marry the legs to the module with hinges to reduce the hassle of hardware and matching legs against modules? I've seen a neat trick on modules using the latches found on steamer trunks (the two commonly found on either side of the lockable latch in the middle). The Mega-hardware stores carry them, not expensive, and they don't seem to "let go" and drop a module on the floor. I'll draw a sketch and post it to "files" if you are interested. Regards, Bill Kronenberger Houston

I am new to this eGroup; my primary modeling media is Nn3 using Marklin Z mechanisms. I am converting my layout over to DCC, and, being a technical neandrethal, have many questions. I was told by one of the attendees at the recent St. Louis NMRA convention that there was a modular Z-scale layout at the show running DCC. Whether or not that was this group, I presume some of you are using DCC now that decoders are available small enough to fit in a Z locomotive. My questions are: 1. Are you using Lenz LE007XF ro Digitrax DZ121, or other decoders? 2. Are you using Lenz or Digitrax command units and throttles? 3. Do you burn up motors using DCC? 4. Is anyone using the Atlas Master DCC system with Digitrax or Lenz decoders? If so, what power source alternative to the Atlas Generator are you using? 5. What lamps are you using for headlights - 12V or 1.5V. 6. If you are using 1.5V lamps, how? You may respond off-line to this e-mail address or trknapp@... (home) if you do not wish to clutter your group with old info you may have already discussed. An Nn3 interloper, Tom Knapp

Hello Folks, I just wanted to let everyone know that I formed yet another Z scale mailing list: Z_Scale_DCC. There have been quite a few questions recently about the subject, and I am unable to update my web pages on the subject as often as I would like, so I am letting Yahoo do the work for me. This list is meant to compliment the other Z scale lists, not replace them. Non-DCC questions will be copied back to the main lists. I know we do not need another mailing list, but it seemed inevitable. Best, -Rob Want to sign up? Go to.... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Z_Scale_DCC

The following Z-Bend_Track poll is now closed. Here are the final results: POLL QUESTION: Each of you has joined this small list for a different reason. Some, just for knowledge. Others, because they need a layout that can go from home to home over time. Still others have an interest in taking their home layouts out in public for shows as individuals, or as groups. With that broad range of interests, it would be nice to know what the "hot" topics are, and as a group address those first. Please indicate your most immediate interest(s) below (please limit yourself to two topics). This poll will close on August 3rd, so we can get right down to fun. Yahoo will email each of you the results directly. Thanks, you moderator. CHOICES AND RESULTS - Was is modular railroading, 2 votes, 4.55% - Basic concepts of module building, 4 votes, 9.09% - wood working issues, 0 votes, 0.00% - legs, 2 votes, 4.55% - tops (wood, foam, etc.), 3 votes, 6.82% - how to create a scene on a module, 7 votes, 15.91% - how do you do "operations" on a module, 6 votes, 13.64% - modules with non-rectangular shapes, 2 votes, 4.55% - packing modules for travel, 1 votes, 2.27% - how to control crowds (and hands), 0 votes, 0.00% - bridge track & getting modules fastened together, 4 votes, 9.09% - More on Z-Bend Track standards, 3 votes, 6.82% - Wiring - simplest form, 3 votes, 6.82% - Wiring - for control panels, 3 votes, 6.82% - I'm just listening to decide on modular, 4 votes, 9.09% For more information about this group, please visit http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Z-Bend_Track For help with Yahoo! Groups, please visit http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/

Hi All: Some years ago, on the N scale list, a fellow posted some observations about mistakes he saw first time layout builders make. I saved his viewpoint, just to double check my own work over time. The observation goes beyond just N scale. Hope you get a chuckle out of it as well. Bill Kronenberger Houston -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Signs of first layouts: 1. Over 50% of the surface area is covered with track. 2. All turns are too tight a radius. 3. The layout contains *ALL* of the following: * Bridge * Tunnel (usually several) * Turntable * Railroad overpass * River * City street * Coal mine * Farm * Logging operation * Train station * Water tower * Heavy industry * Mountain * River and/or lake 4. The river and lake water is bright, primary-color blue. 5. All vehicles and buildings are shiny and clean. 6. All trees are perfectly spherical or cone shaped. 7. The automobiles are too big. 8. The automobiles include Ferraris, Maseratis, and Shelby Cobras. 9. There is no access to any tunnel except through the entrance and exit. 10. Mountains spring up out of nowhere -- sort of like they are stuck onto plywood! 11. The tracks apparently go out of their way so that there can be tunnels and bridges. 12. Large girder bridges take trains over dirt roads. 13. All roads start and stop on the layout. None ever reaches an edge. Regards, Fred Maxwell

Hi all: Seems the hottest "hot topic" was "how to create a scene on a module. I loaded up the CAD drawings from several module builders into the files section of this group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Z-Bend_Track If you went to the NTS, then you saw these drawings come to life. But in this venue, the issue is simply to stimulate ideas and conversation. Rob Allbritton seems to have a natural art for visualizing scenes, commiting the thought to CAD, and then executing the scenery to support the module very well. Rob is very unusual in that his modules are VERY long. Rob's CAD drawings are of the track CENTER LINE, not the rails. What brings up a good point. The longer the module, the better opportunity you have to "develop" a scene without "forced compression." On the other hand, you have a transportation problem. I've included one of my modules, which is completely built, but has a fatal flaw: never try to join modules on a curve. Yes, I'll solve the mechanical problem, but it will take a couple pieces of carefully machined track to emulate a curved "expansion track." Just don't duplicate my mistake. The Houston Modules are done in Atlas Right Track Software (FREE) and the outline is of the ROADBED, not the track. Any color you see is the electrical blocking of the track, and any numbers refer to the terminal blocks the rails are wired to. Please note, Z-Bend Track modules only have a defined shape at the interface to other modules. Anything between those two points is a valid design, limited only by the scene you want to develop and the space you have to fit the modules into (in your home/apartment). Second note: Z-Bend Track modules are BIG into turnouts, spurs and passing sidings. Those Operational considerations are encouraged to give the modules a fun purpose: the pickup and delivery of goods and people - just like the real railroads. Now its your turn: what are your ideas for trackplans and modules? Bill Kronenberger

Attention K-Mart Shoppers (a uniquely US phrase): If you are looking for power packs to run Z trains on modules, I'll point out some bargains on eBay. If you will remember from the posts on Z_Scale list, Model Rectifier Corp (MRC) 1300's and 2800's (a dual pack) are commonly used to power Z scale trains, PROVIDED you mechanically block the throttle knob so that it can't rotate beyond the 2:00 (14:00) position. MicroTrains buys the 1300's and adds a new front panel which blocks the knob and provides a reduced 0-100 mph scale (or some speed range like that)and sells it as a "Z" scale pack. There is a seller who must have bought hundreds of 1300's somewhere, and routinely sells them for $15.00. He runs them six at a time, but many go unbid (not enough power to run 4 MUed locos in HO anymore). I bought a couple from this fellow, and they are in fact "new." And there are currently several 2800's for sale by various sellers, new in box, in the $25-30 range. Don't know any of these folks, but their ratings suggest they are serious sellers. These prices are about 65-70 percent off MSRP (list price). If you have an interest, search http://listings.ebay.com/aw/listings/list/all/category483/index.html for a keyword of either "1300" or "2800" with both option boxes checked. I have zero connection to any of these sellers (exect as a customer on the 1300's). Just pointing out "deals" as I see them. Bill Kronenberger Houston

Howdy list! Over the next few days, I hope you get a lot of Email on this list. Why? Because I'm going to build a small module and keep you guys up to date on how it goes. Why? Simple - those monster modules from NTS don't fit in their new permanent home. Originally they were going to go in a barn at a farm in Virginia about an hour away from my home in Washington, DC - but the barn is not weather proof enough for me (mice are a problem) so they are now going to go into a three car garage at the same farm. Also, the weather in the U.S. over the last few days has me thinking that some limited air conditioning would be a good idea (keeps plastic buildings from melting) and I can do it in the garage - but no can do in the barn. Now this means that instead of having all 40 feet of these things in a line, I am going to have to loop them back in a giant "U" shape, so I am going to have to build a bend module. Nothing fancy - just track and a mountain. I have today and tomorrow off, but I am leaving town Sunday morning for 2 weeks - lets see how much (all?) can get done before I leave! I hope to have the plans done this morning, and a Home Depot run this afternoon. I'll keep you informed. -Rob

This has been a busy day! After my last Email, the clothes dryer repair man came by to fix the appliance. It had developed a nasty condition of shorting out with large blue sparks (not good for a gas dryer!) Anyway - I was delayed going to Home Depot. Once I got there I took my time. I liked David George's PVC pipe legs on his module, so I got the parts to make my own. That took a while as I departed the size of pipe to use. I settled on 1" (probably too small, but this is a small module) I also picked up some 1 x 6 x 8 foot pine and a 1 x 4 x 6 foot poplar board. I use hard wood for all of my end connections - it seems to survive the connecting "C" claps better than soft pine. I already had a sheet of 1/2" plywood at home, but I did get some pink extruded foam for the end pieces of the mountains. With everything loaded up in the Mini Van, I was off to Subway for a sandwich and out to work. WOW was it HOT today!!! I got going on the wood working at about 3pm, but I found myself jumping in the pool every 30 minutes or so. Its a great way to get sawdust off you, and I did not mind at all working in a bathing suit and sandals. The frame went together fairly quickly, with no problems. I decided to put a cross brace in it after looking at all of the 45 degree angles. I think it really helped on stability. It also wound up being a great place for the legs. I abandoned the PVC legs based on my lack of ability to put thread on raw PVC pipe (whoops - forgot about that one) and, I discovered an "extra" set of Bend Track legs hiding under a table in the garage. Anyway I decided to put them to use. By 4:30 the frame was done (see picture "Frame" in the files section of Z-Bend_Track) My friend Caroline dropped by to hand out at the pool, so I took a well deserved break (back in the water!) Moose, my four year old, female, chocolate Labrador jumped in with me and we had a nice swim for about 30 minutes. Did I mention that it was hot today? 100 degrees in the shade! Anyway, Caroline took off after about an hour and a half, and I was back to work. The plywood top went on well, as did the existing legs. By 6:30 I had wrapped it up for the day. (See picture "Bench work" in the files section of Z-Bend_Track) My housemate Paul is having a BBQ for a bunch of work buddies, so I'm going to call it a day. My plans for tomorrow are to put the mountains on first. I will use the same technique that I have employed on all of my other modules: cardboard webbing with plaster soaked paper towels forming the shell. I'm then going to paint the entire thing with a coat of dark green latex, and then add the stone fleck paint to the mountain tops. After that, I'll add scenic foam. I'm going to do the track work and electrical last so I don't have to cover any of them while I do the scenery. Normally this is a no - no, but these track layouts are very simple, So I don't think it will be a big deal. Best, -Rob

Shopping and Lunch are now over! I picked up a full box (25 pieces) of N scale cork, as well as the paint, but I realized that there needs to be a change of plans: First of all, I need to paint the bench work. Then draw lines for the cork, *then* I can put up the mountains. Here's why they need to be done in that order: I need to measure the interface points for the tracks. Everything needs to be done from a centerline on the modules. With a mountain down the middle, it is going to be very hard to measure through it. I want a base coat of paint on the wood before I put down the cork, so I need to do that *before* I draw the tracks on the wood (otherwise the paint will cover my markings) I'm off to paint (outside - yuck!) -Rob

Hi Gang! OK, got the 1st coat of paint on the module. I put down a base coat of latex before doing anything, that way if I mess up anywhere there is no "raw" plywood to be seen! (See picture: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Z-Bend_Track/files/ ) While I'm waiting for it to dry, I'm going to build the two mountain end pieces. I use a standard size polygon so that I can keep the mountain chain going while preserving my ability to reverse modules or change their order. After the Z-Bend Track interface, the mountains can be any shape I like - they only have to be the "standard" size at the interface point. It is not a part of the official Z-Bend Track standard. It is just for my purposes (of course you're welcome to use it!) Since this module only has two legs, I decided to clamp it on to my open staircase for support. Its a great way to keep "end" modules standing up while you work on them! More updates later Best, -Rob