Don:
Great questions. Some of the solutions we use down South are:
1 what is the proper way to grab the track or ties when I want to
make a disconnection??
We use curved needle nose pliers to gently pull the expansion track rails out
of the rail joiner (which stays with the stationary track). Pull one rail
out at time. If you have removed the first and last tie/sleeper from the
expansion track then all four rails will move independently (very high recommended).
2 What do you do or how do you do any ballasting in the area of both
the track that moves and also the mating track so you can hook onto
the track connectors?? I assume you have to be able to lift the
mating track slightly so you cn attach the expansion track.
The cork under the expansion track should be 1/16" lower than the cork under
the fixed track. You can sand down the cork, or use cork of a different
thickness for the 2 and 1/8" setback. The expansion track will not bow up if you
do this. The expansion track should NEVER be lifted up vertically for any
reason while its connected to fixed track. That could deform the rail joiners
and/or the expansion track itself. Or even put stress on the fixed track.
Always keep the insertion/removal forces horizontal. Only lift the expansion track
after all four rails are free.
This 1/16" lowered area includes any ballast you may have on the cork. Here's
some thoughts that may help:
* Use a fine mesh sifter to get just some fine "ballast dust" from the
ballast you use on the fixed track. Paint a thin coating of white glue on the
lowered cork (where the expansion track goes) and dust the glue with the "ballast
dust." No one is likely to notice the absence of ballast between the ties if
the roadbed is the identical color and texture to the ballasted track next to
it.
* If you are good artist, just mix up a batch of paint that matches your
ballast color and paint the cork where the expansion track goes. Again, the
color match completes the illusion.
3 How many ties back do you keep loose [i.e. not affixed to the
roadbed cork]
None. There should be just enough "free rail" to get the rail joiner on, and
the first tie/sleeper should be glued down just like all the rest of the
ties/sleepers on the fixed track.
Suggestion: If you are concerned about track damage to the very end of your
fixed track (that CAN happen at setups) then make the last inch of your fixed
track out of a short one inch piece of Marklin snap track. Its tie plates
grip the track more firmly than flex track (of any brand) and take abuse better.
If it gets damaged, just replace the last inch of track, not a whole stick of
flex track that's glued down and hard to work with.
4 Do you do anything to the rail connectors to make the connections
easier?
Rail joiners by: Peco, Atlas (code 55) and Micro Engineering (code 55). The
insulated rail joiners by these folks are MUCH cheaper than those from
Marklin as well as being much stronger and easier to work with. Once you ballast
your track, all rail joiners (insulated or not) tend to disappear.
And make a tool make for installing rail joiners. See the Z_Bend_Track Yahoo
group for the who-to-make-one PDF file.
Does any of this help?
Bill K.
Houston
