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Replacing a brass frame on a Bowser H9 ??
Henry, list, About 20 years ago, I had to replace the brass frame on my Bowser H9s because the solder joints that held the forward part of the frame together kept failing. ?I think this was just a bad solder joint, since my other two Bowser engines with brass frames (both G5s 4-6-0s) have been trouble-free. At the time, Bowser was in full production on its steam engine line and I bought the zinc underframe (Bowser's part number is 820) and drivers without bearings to fit the zinc frame. Since Bowser's drivers are out of production, one solution is to use NWSL's Puller to remove the non-insulated driver (I scribe a mark crossing both axle and wheel so when I reassemble the wheel, it has the factory quartering), slide the bearings out (you'd need to also temporarily remove the axle gear to get to the other bearing), and reassemble the drivers with the NWSL Sensipress. Henry, do you have the Puller and Sensipress at home? ?If not, I may be able to help as long as you're not in a rush. ? Doug Kisala
On Monday, September 3, 2018, 10:56:16 AM PDT, huligin62@... [yardbirdtrains] wrote:
?
IT says that you can replace the brass frame with a cast one ? It appears to be able to fix my rpoblem on this loco . HOWEVER , there are micro brass bearing on all drivers . Is it big enough for? the axles with the bearings on them ?? Whip out the caliper again ??? ? Henry _ . |
I just asked that today. And then just now, upon reviewing the last email I had from 开云体育, I realized that I missed one step. After granting the moderator permissions, I was supposed to go back to 开云体育, and give permission (again? after all this? apparently.) for the transfer to occur. So, since I've now done that, hopefully it will get started post haste. Mea culpa. Brian Pickering bpickeri@... |
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