开云体育

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 开云体育

Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

Good job! I'm sure you could sell them on eBay. If selling small quantities is an issue, sell a large lot and someone will probably come along that will resell those. Between all the DX# varieties out there I suspect there is a bit of an ongoing demand for them.

For the nit-picky buyers out there, they might want brown? I remember the new DX7 membrane panel guy agonized over the colors on Gearspace I think it was.

GB

On 1/19/2022 8:28 PM, Ethan Hoerr wrote:
Well if anyone is interested in a set of
Four (4) 16mm and one (1) 13mm M4.2 Pan Phillips Tapping Steel, Zinc Plated DIN 7981-C
Let me know, had to buy a decent quantity for it to be cost effective. I also have a black oxide chemical kit I intend to use to make mine black.


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

Well if anyone is interested in a set of

Four (4) 16mm and one (1) 13mm M4.2 Pan Phillips Tapping Steel, Zinc Plated DIN 7981-C

Let me know, had to buy a decent quantity for it to be cost effective. I also have a black oxide chemical kit I intend to use to make mine black.


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

Bruce Wahler
 

开云体育

It's a matter of degrees, I suppose.? There are differences in the shape of Philips, JIS, etc. holes that affect the max. torque and the reliability when one is using power drivers and/or hundreds of insertions per day.? The kind of thing that makes a difference in manufacturing.? It's the same thing with Torx and Torx+ heads.? But if one is careful, using the wrong driver is OK for a few screws, IMO.

Regards,

-BW

Bruce Wahler
Halfmoon-Switch.com?
bw@...

978.597.7008

?
On 1/19/2022 9:41 AM, LarryS wrote:

You're probably right.
I just remember the jet engine mechanics on the shop floor making a big deal
about it and how they had separate drivers. 
Maybe they were having fun with the Engineer - "no THAT one takes the
fillister driver".
Or maybe they actually used separate drives.

L.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mark
audacity romberg
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2022 8:10 AM
To: [email protected]; ethan@...
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

Fillister is a head shape, not a drive type. 






Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

You're probably right.
I just remember the jet engine mechanics on the shop floor making a big deal
about it and how they had separate drivers.
Maybe they were having fun with the Engineer - "no THAT one takes the
fillister driver".
Or maybe they actually used separate drives.

L.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mark
audacity romberg
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2022 8:10 AM
To: [email protected]; ethan@...
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

Fillister is a head shape, not a drive type.


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

Fillister is a head shape, not a drive type.


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

Thanks for the details Ant!

Based on your measurements, I think I need an M4.2 screw size. Its diameter is 4.2mm and its thread pitch is 1.4mm. McMaster-Carr has some: https://www.mcmaster.com/92470A367/


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

I believe that they are Philips head and certainly metric thread,? being from Japan. Possibly 6mm.

On Tuesday, January 18, 2022, 09:16:29 a.m. PST, LarryS <vision1@...> wrote:


They might be.

At first glance, they looked like Fillister head.

But I’ve always had trouble distinguishing the two without actual drivers to test it with.

L.

?

?


Correction - I think they are actually Phillips!






Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

开云体育

They might be.

At first glance, they looked like Fillister head.

But I’ve always had trouble distinguishing the two without actual drivers to test it with.

L.

?

?


Correction - I think they are actually Phillips!



Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

More accurate measuring reveals the thread pitch may be 1.4mm.
A hint for inserting self-tapping screws into old plastic is to first rest the screw in the hole then back the screw out slowly until you feel it drop into the thread. Then screw it in as normal and don't over-tighten.


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 
Edited

According to the DX7 service manual the front panel screws are Bind(sic) Head Tapping Screw 4 x 16. The rear panel screw is Bind Head Tapping Screw 4 x 8.
I have also removed them from my DX7 and measured. They are self tappers with what appear to be JIS heads (not Phillips) with 4mm diameter and 1.5 mm thread pitch.

Correction - I think they are actually Phillips!


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

开云体育

Depending on WHERE on the panel.

There’s four that you take out, two at each end, to raise the panel on its hinge.

Those screws are, in fact, ‘self-tapping’ or a variation thereof, simply because they anchor into *plastic*.? So they’re not a machine screw thread.

Likewise, pretty much any screw throughout that anchors into plastic carries that similar thread.

But there are PLENTY of fasteners in the DX7 that anchor into metal.? Like the ones that hold in the keybed. They would carry a machine thread and also carry a machine thread designator, like M4-0.7 x16mm.?

The actual length of almost all of these fasteners are very forgiving.? They can be several millimeters short or long and still perform adequately.

?

L.

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce Wahler via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2022 6:24 AM
To: [email protected]; fiebiger5@...
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

?

Ethan et al,

Those screw checkers are for *tapped* holes.? That DIN standard is for a *self-tapping* screw.? The first thing is to figure out which type was used.? Here is a tapped style for comparison --



Frankly, I would be surprised if Yamaha used self-tapping screws on the DX7.? They certainly didn't? on my TX802.? These screws are used in applications where it's unlikely that removal is required.? Putting them back in without stripping the holes is tricky; even with care, they can't be removed more than a few times before loosening the hole.

Most Japanese MI gear uses M3, M3.5, M4 or M5 tapped screws with 'standard' threads for just about everything.? (Metric screws also have fine-pitch variations, but their use is extremely rare.)? That "4x16mm" sounds like a reasonable starting point:? it's commonly referred to as an 'M4 x 16', or more properly, an M4-0.7 x 16mm.? You should be able to test an M4 in a screw checker per Dan's suggestion.? Then measure the distance from the bottom of the screw head to figure out the length.? Common lengths are 6mm, 8mm, 12mm, 16mm, and 20mm.? (Actually, 16mm sounds a bit long for a case screw.)

Most quality hardware stores will have something in this size, although black oxide coating may be harder to find than galvanized or stainless steel.? But an online hardware site like MSC or McMaster-Carr will definitely have them.? Or try eBay.

________
Jan's comment about JIS is a good point:? a Philips screwdriver will work, if the user is careful.? McMaster has JIS screws, but not black-oxide ones.

Regards,

-BW

Bruce Wahler
Halfmoon-Switch.com?
bw@...

978.597.7008

?

On 1/18/2022 3:55 AM, FIEBIGER DAN wrote:

Since Yamaha is a Japanese company, their synths were likely made (or at least designed) in Japan which uses the metric system?of measurement and construction for everything, including screws, nuts, bolts, etc.

?

At some better hardware stores (not always the big box hardware stores) there are metal or plastic rectangle thing you can hold in your hand, called a “screw checker" that have different size screw holes in them that you can gentle try out any kind and size screw in to find out what that the type and thread of the screw is.?

?

America is the only country in the entire world that has a non-metric older different screw-thread system called the "American Standard” system, and complicating things even worse if that there's?two of those kinds of screws within the American Standard system?also: ?"Course” thread and “fine” thread. ?

?

But the influx of foreign made items sold to America has been increasing since the 1960s, and so more and more stuff now common to us is metric instead of American Standard.

?

So there’s a metric screw-checker for testing metric screws and a separate screw-checker for testing American Standard screws. ?Both are worth buying and keeping for situations like these. ?

?

Once you've got those, it's likely your DX7 is metric, so get out your metric screw-checker and unscrew one screw from your DX7 that’s closest to the missing screw holes and then test it on the metric screw checker to figure out what the thread is and write that info down. ?Then measure the length of the screw with any American ruler. ?Let's say for the sake of discussion that the screw is ?half an inch long. ?Write that down also.

?

Now, try that screw in each of the other holes that don't have screws and see if it tightens up properly. ?If not, you now know you need a longer screw for those holes.

?

But if it tightens up, now you know what length of screw to get, and that it's metric, and what metric-thread you need.

?

Put that screw back into the hole you got it out of and head back to that same better hardware store and tell them the exact kind of screws you want and they might have then and then back home screw them into your DX7 and you're in business. ?

?

Also note that these kinds of screws are called "machine screws” as opposed to “wood screws" or “sheet metal screws" or "specialized screws” of which there are many kinds.

?

Does this help any?

?

Catch ya later. ?Bye for now.

?

Dan Fiebiger.

Portland, Oregon

?

(Still using my first generation DX7)



?
?
?

?


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

Op di 18 jan. 2022 om 13:23 schreef Bruce Wahler via groups.io
<bw@...>:
Frankly, I would be surprised if Yamaha used self-tapping screws on the DX7. They certainly didn't on my TX802. These screws are used in applications where it's unlikely that removal is required. Putting them back in without stripping the holes is tricky; even with care, they can't be removed more than a few times before loosening the hole.
My experience with taking apart 1980's synthesizers has been that
manufacturers use both self-tapping and tapped screws in the same
appliance. For example, plastic panels sometimes have integrated
plastic stand-offs that take a self-tapping screw.

Jacob


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

开云体育

No, it doesn’t especially help.

You missed a LOT of points and got most of it wrong.

But, hey, whenever metric comes up anywhere, this type of ‘expert’ starts evangelizing.

?

L.

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of FIEBIGER DAN
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2022 2:56 AM
To: [email protected]; ethan@...
Subject: [YamahaDX] Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

?

Since Yamaha is a Japanese company, their synths were likely made (or at least designed) in Japan which uses the metric system?of measurement and construction for everything, including screws, nuts, bolts, etc.

?

At some better hardware stores (not always the big box hardware stores) there are metal or plastic rectangle thing you can hold in your hand, called a “screw checker" that have different size screw holes in them that you can gentle try out any kind and size screw in to find out what that the type and thread of the screw is.?

?

America is the only country in the entire world that has a non-metric older different screw-thread system called the "American Standard” system, and complicating things even worse if that there's?two of those kinds of screws within the American Standard system?also: ?"Course” thread and “fine” thread. ?

?

But the influx of foreign made items sold to America has been increasing since the 1960s, and so more and more stuff now common to us is metric instead of American Standard.

?

So there’s a metric screw-checker for testing metric screws and a separate screw-checker for testing American Standard screws. ?Both are worth buying and keeping for situations like these. ?

?

Once you've got those, it's likely your DX7 is metric, so get out your metric screw-checker and unscrew one screw from your DX7 that’s closest to the missing screw holes and then test it on the metric screw checker to figure out what the thread is and write that info down. ?Then measure the length of the screw with any American ruler. ?Let's say for the sake of discussion that the screw is ?half an inch long. ?Write that down also.

?

Now, try that screw in each of the other holes that don't have screws and see if it tightens up properly. ?If not, you now know you need a longer screw for those holes.

?

But if it tightens up, now you know what length of screw to get, and that it's metric, and what metric-thread you need.

?

Put that screw back into the hole you got it out of and head back to that same better hardware store and tell them the exact kind of screws you want and they might have then and then back home screw them into your DX7 and you're in business. ?

?

Also note that these kinds of screws are called "machine screws” as opposed to “wood screws" or “sheet metal screws" or "specialized screws” of which there are many kinds.

?

Does this help any?

?

Catch ya later. ?Bye for now.

?

Dan Fiebiger.

Portland, Oregon

?

(Still using my first generation DX7)


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws

 

A couple of things to try... first the Yamaha service notes often call out the individual hardware pieces by name/description. Also, there are so many parted out DX7's that the screws show up very often on eBay (and even for a reasonable price).

On 1/17/2022 8:39 PM, Ethan Hoerr wrote:
My secondhand DX7 did not come with the 4 front panel screws or the 1 screw near the power switch. Anybody know what kind of screws these are? I understand the screw near the power switch may be slightly shorter in length.
The clearest info I could find was from the DX7 Special Edition ROM instructions PDF: "Philips Head/Tapping Type (Size 4x16mm)" Searching these terms led me to a fastener with dimensional standard DIN 7981 C/F: <>
Does this look right? Thanks in advance for your help.


Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

Bruce Wahler
 

开云体育

Ethan et al,

Those screw checkers are for *tapped* holes.? That DIN standard is for a *self-tapping* screw.? The first thing is to figure out which type was used.? Here is a tapped style for comparison --



Frankly, I would be surprised if Yamaha used self-tapping screws on the DX7.? They certainly didn't? on my TX802.? These screws are used in applications where it's unlikely that removal is required.? Putting them back in without stripping the holes is tricky; even with care, they can't be removed more than a few times before loosening the hole.

Most Japanese MI gear uses M3, M3.5, M4 or M5 tapped screws with 'standard' threads for just about everything.? (Metric screws also have fine-pitch variations, but their use is extremely rare.)? That "4x16mm" sounds like a reasonable starting point:? it's commonly referred to as an 'M4 x 16', or more properly, an M4-0.7 x 16mm.? You should be able to test an M4 in a screw checker per Dan's suggestion.? Then measure the distance from the bottom of the screw head to figure out the length.? Common lengths are 6mm, 8mm, 12mm, 16mm, and 20mm.? (Actually, 16mm sounds a bit long for a case screw.)

Most quality hardware stores will have something in this size, although black oxide coating may be harder to find than galvanized or stainless steel.? But an online hardware site like MSC or McMaster-Carr will definitely have them.? Or try eBay.

________
Jan's comment about JIS is a good point:? a Philips screwdriver will work, if the user is careful.? McMaster has JIS screws, but not black-oxide ones.

Regards,

-BW

Bruce Wahler
Halfmoon-Switch.com?
bw@...

978.597.7008

?
On 1/18/2022 3:55 AM, FIEBIGER DAN wrote:

Since Yamaha is a Japanese company, their synths were likely made (or at least designed) in Japan which uses the metric system?of measurement and construction for everything, including screws, nuts, bolts, etc.

At some better hardware stores (not always the big box hardware stores) there are metal or plastic rectangle thing you can hold in your hand, called a “screw checker" that have different size screw holes in them that you can gentle try out any kind and size screw in to find out what that the type and thread of the screw is.?

America is the only country in the entire world that has a non-metric older different screw-thread system called the "American Standard” system, and complicating things even worse if that there's?two of those kinds of screws within the American Standard system?also: ?"Course” thread and “fine” thread. ?

But the influx of foreign made items sold to America has been increasing since the 1960s, and so more and more stuff now common to us is metric instead of American Standard.

So there’s a metric screw-checker for testing metric screws and a separate screw-checker for testing American Standard screws. ?Both are worth buying and keeping for situations like these. ?

Once you've got those, it's likely your DX7 is metric, so get out your metric screw-checker and unscrew one screw from your DX7 that’s closest to the missing screw holes and then test it on the metric screw checker to figure out what the thread is and write that info down. ?Then measure the length of the screw with any American ruler. ?Let's say for the sake of discussion that the screw is ?half an inch long. ?Write that down also.

Now, try that screw in each of the other holes that don't have screws and see if it tightens up properly. ?If not, you now know you need a longer screw for those holes.

But if it tightens up, now you know what length of screw to get, and that it's metric, and what metric-thread you need.

Put that screw back into the hole you got it out of and head back to that same better hardware store and tell them the exact kind of screws you want and they might have then and then back home screw them into your DX7 and you're in business. ?

Also note that these kinds of screws are called "machine screws” as opposed to “wood screws" or “sheet metal screws" or "specialized screws” of which there are many kinds.

Does this help any?

Catch ya later. ?Bye for now.

Dan Fiebiger.
Portland, Oregon

(Still using my first generation DX7)





Re: Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

One more thing to be aware of. A lot of products coming out of Japan used the JIS screw head, which is not Pozidrive, nor is it Philips.
Of course this doesn't matter if you're putting in new screws but it is a concern if you are trying to take out old metal panel screws which may have seized.

Jan.
On Tuesday, 18 January 2022, 08:55:41 GMT, FIEBIGER DAN <fiebiger5@...> wrote:


Since Yamaha is a Japanese company, their synths were likely made (or at least designed) in Japan which uses the metric system?of measurement and construction for everything, including screws, nuts, bolts, etc.

At some better hardware stores (not always the big box hardware stores) there are metal or plastic rectangle thing you can hold in your hand, called a “screw checker" that have different size screw holes in them that you can gentle try out any kind and size screw in to find out what that the type and thread of the screw is.?

America is the only country in the entire world that has a non-metric older different screw-thread system called the "American Standard” system, and complicating things even worse if that there's?two of those kinds of screws within the American Standard system?also: ?"Course” thread and “fine” thread. ?

But the influx of foreign made items sold to America has been increasing since the 1960s, and so more and more stuff now common to us is metric instead of American Standard.

So there’s a metric screw-checker for testing metric screws and a separate screw-checker for testing American Standard screws. ?Both are worth buying and keeping for situations like these. ?

Once you've got those, it's likely your DX7 is metric, so get out your metric screw-checker and unscrew one screw from your DX7 that’s closest to the missing screw holes and then test it on the metric screw checker to figure out what the thread is and write that info down. ?Then measure the length of the screw with any American ruler. ?Let's say for the sake of discussion that the screw is ?half an inch long. ?Write that down also.

Now, try that screw in each of the other holes that don't have screws and see if it tightens up properly. ?If not, you now know you need a longer screw for those holes.

But if it tightens up, now you know what length of screw to get, and that it's metric, and what metric-thread you need.

Put that screw back into the hole you got it out of and head back to that same better hardware store and tell them the exact kind of screws you want and they might have then and then back home screw them into your DX7 and you're in business. ?

Also note that these kinds of screws are called "machine screws” as opposed to “wood screws" or “sheet metal screws" or "specialized screws” of which there are many kinds.

Does this help any?

Catch ya later. ?Bye for now.

Dan Fiebiger.
Portland, Oregon

(Still using my first generation DX7)




Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws (1st)

 

开云体育

Since Yamaha is a Japanese company, their synths were likely made (or at least designed) in Japan which uses the metric system?of measurement and construction for everything, including screws, nuts, bolts, etc.

At some better hardware stores (not always the big box hardware stores) there are metal or plastic rectangle thing you can hold in your hand, called a “screw checker" that have different size screw holes in them that you can gentle try out any kind and size screw in to find out what that the type and thread of the screw is.?

America is the only country in the entire world that has a non-metric older different screw-thread system called the "American Standard” system, and complicating things even worse if that there's?two of those kinds of screws within the American Standard system?also: ?"Course” thread and “fine” thread. ?

But the influx of foreign made items sold to America has been increasing since the 1960s, and so more and more stuff now common to us is metric instead of American Standard.

So there’s a metric screw-checker for testing metric screws and a separate screw-checker for testing American Standard screws. ?Both are worth buying and keeping for situations like these. ?

Once you've got those, it's likely your DX7 is metric, so get out your metric screw-checker and unscrew one screw from your DX7 that’s closest to the missing screw holes and then test it on the metric screw checker to figure out what the thread is and write that info down. ?Then measure the length of the screw with any American ruler. ?Let's say for the sake of discussion that the screw is ?half an inch long. ?Write that down also.

Now, try that screw in each of the other holes that don't have screws and see if it tightens up properly. ?If not, you now know you need a longer screw for those holes.

But if it tightens up, now you know what length of screw to get, and that it's metric, and what metric-thread you need.

Put that screw back into the hole you got it out of and head back to that same better hardware store and tell them the exact kind of screws you want and they might have then and then back home screw them into your DX7 and you're in business. ?

Also note that these kinds of screws are called "machine screws” as opposed to “wood screws" or “sheet metal screws" or "specialized screws” of which there are many kinds.

Does this help any?

Catch ya later. ?Bye for now.

Dan Fiebiger.
Portland, Oregon

(Still using my first generation DX7)


Need help identifying DX7 front panel screws

 

My secondhand DX7 did not come with the 4 front panel screws or the 1 screw near the power switch. Anybody know what kind of screws these are? I understand the screw near the power switch may be slightly shorter in length.

The clearest info I could find was from the DX7 Special Edition ROM instructions PDF: "Philips Head/Tapping Type (Size 4x16mm)" Searching these terms led me to a fastener with dimensional standard DIN 7981 C/F:

Does this look right? Thanks in advance for your help.



Re: A strange journey worth sharing

 

开云体育

?

Interesting. Never heard of them. But now that I search for them, I’m even more inclined to replace the floppy drive on my Ensoniq EPS-M rack mount sampler. Thanks!

?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Martin Tarenskeen via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2022 1:24 AM
To: [email protected]; ambrose.bill@...
Subject: Re: [YamahaDX] A strange journey worth sharing

?

I have fitted a Gotek in my Yamaha V50. Works fine once you get used to it. Just as annoyingly slow as my real floppy was in the old days, but much more reliable. And 100 floppies full of relatively small sysex files is more than I will ever need and they fit on the smallest USB thumbdrive that I could find :-)?

?

MT


Op dinsdag 11 januari 2022 om 00:24:14 -0800 schreef ambrose.bill@...:

Have you looked into a Gotek floppy emulator? ?
I fitted one into an S900, and then into my Yamahah RM1X and it worked perfectly in each instance,
It then behaves exactly like a floppy disk (well 100+ floppy disks to be precise)
(looks like someone has already done it :?


Re: A strange journey worth sharing

 

I have fitted a Gotek in my Yamaha V50. Works fine once you get used to it. Just as annoyingly slow as my real floppy was in the old days, but much more reliable. And 100 floppies full of relatively small sysex files is more than I will ever need and they fit on the smallest USB thumbdrive that I could find :-)?

MT

Op dinsdag 11 januari 2022 om 00:24:14 -0800 schreef ambrose.bill@...:

Have you looked into a Gotek floppy emulator? ?
I fitted one into an S900, and then into my Yamahah RM1X and it worked perfectly in each instance,
It then behaves exactly like a floppy disk (well 100+ floppy disks to be precise)
(looks like someone has already done it :?https://www.yamahamusicians.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17483