开云体育

Hi Guys, I am having a problem locking a knob for my FT-980 restoration, mainly due to the shape of thew shaft.

Can anyone please let me know if your ATT pot is either all round, or does it have a flat?

Mine has a round shaft, and it does look as though it is original, the soldiering and the wiring looks to be untouched, but saying that, this transceiver has been heavily played with and I am in the middle of replacing all of the internal wiring, and trying to work out what has been changed in this radio, there are many extra wires that are clearly a bodge by someone, and you can see that who ever did these modifications was a terrible solderer.

If anyone can help it would be very much appreciated as I am unsure if I need to replace this pot, as I cannot get a ATT Knob anywhere that fits onto a round shaft.

Kind Regards

James
MD0MDI

I don't have mine open at the time, so I am going from memory and the docs. It is actually a double-pole quad-throw (DP4T) switch.

The MPN is?SBU2044N(10)-R15, but I can't find any information online on it.

That is all I got w/o cracking my unit open. I've had the shaft out when working on the RF board, but I can't recall the mechanical details.

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-Mat Breton, N8TW

Thanks for the info but that is not really what I am after...

I just want to know if you remove the knob from the ATT switch is the shaft round or does it have milled shaft, i.e. the shaft will be mostly round with a flat side to enable the knob to be screwed and thus locked in place.

Thanks?

James

The shaft is round (not a D-shaft), splined, with a single split. The split is not used by the knob ... but the splines are.
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-Mat Breton, N8TW

Cheers for that Matt, it is just that I have bought off eBay 3 complete sets of knobs suposably for the 980 but the knob that should be on the ATT are all D shaped, thus I was thinking it had been changed at some point, I will just have to kep buying sets till the right ATT Knob comes along.

Thanks for the help, it is very much appreciated.

James
MD0MDI

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-Mat Breton, N8TW

Awesome, Matt,

Just like mine, that has put my mind at rest, I just need to keep trying to locate this knob to at least complete the front panel, as well as the ever growing list.

James

There are two styles of that knob which I've encountered. One is the splined - used on our FT-980s. The other is flatted - and this is seen on other Yaesu models such as the FT-757/FC-757.

What I would consider is finding a length of 6mm diameter aluminum shaft that you can contour and groove so it approximates the OEM splined part. Then, machine a flat on the panel end to allow a 757-series selector knob to be used. Sets of these knobs come up somewhat frequently on the auction site.

Keep the splined shaft for future use or sell it to someone whose rig was damaged in shipping, as they sometimes get broken as the result of a clueless packing job.

73 - Fred, N8YX

Hi Fred,

I have a bit of luxury regarding time, most of the restoration projects that I have done have involved a complete strip down, often a sand blast of the chassis followed by a replating and sometimes even a polish, then the slow rebuild of each component as well go, with all other metalwork such as VFO's and Inductors, etc spending multiple times in the Ultrasonic cleaner till I am happy with them. with all that and the hunt for parts that often take much longer than I would wish, but it does mean that I will try my best to find each missing part as I go, I have restoration projects here that are still going after 15 years, most seem to take about 10, but when finished I more often that not will end up with a new st that will look a lot nicer than when it was first built.

So I am happy to wait till I can find the exact part that I need. Anyway this FT-980 is also being totally re-wired, a lot of the horrible 'Yellow' wires that fly all over the chassis in this one that I have are in such as state that when you touch them or move them the coating starts to crack or just breaks off in large lumps, so each PCB and attached hardware is slowly removed and catalogued before being cleaned and tested.

It's a slow process, but like most old radios as it takes 'SOOOOO' long to find old parts I can afford to wait, Thanks for the ideas, I have done similar in the past, but this was never meant to be such a big project, I much prefer slightly older Vacuum based kit like the Drake and KW Electronics kit and even early kit from the 70's and 80's. This old 980 has now turned out to a really monster job, I am going to need quite a few old parts from donor radios to get this working sweet again.?

Kind Regards

James
MD0MDI

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