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Re: Green/Red LED Lock Mod
开云体育
?I copied the following years ago from:? .? I hope that it helps you.
Neil
"One problem is: where to find the + 10V on the receiver board? I found, about 3 cm in front of the original connection of the red LED wires on the board, a pitch that gives me + 10V, looking for it with a tester between the ground and the various pitches.
The photo below shows the cables to the original LED (where our circuit is connected instead) and the pitch I used for the + 10V (unfortunately I have a faulty camera, none of these photos are mine)
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Sent from |
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Green/Red LED Lock Mod
I intend to carry out the bi-colour LED lock mod on my FRG-7. Are there any detailed photos or diagrams showing where the 10v, 0v and led lock pickup points are.?
The website of monitor.co.uk shows some info but not sure where to get the 10v from and whilst it shows the 0v and led lock connections I'm not sure on which PCB they are. There used to be a YouTube video from a ham in Finland (I think) which gave detailed instructions but can't find it. Many thanks. David G4EDR.? |
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Re: New caps in a FRG-7
Hello Fellows ,first of all thanks so much for the input ,might be best not to mess with the set ?,I see that there is not a lot of room on the board ,things are very close
?and I don,t want to do any damage , good advice if it ain't broke don,t fix it .I think I will ask Santa for a ESR capacitor checker so I can check condensers in? circuit ,I pulled out the chassis and it looks very clean and no bulging caps, is it normal when you try to tune or find shortwave stations there is a noise between ?stations ,I call it a snow noise like the way TV's way back when made when there was no channel on at the time , just asking never had a shortwave radio like ?this before , only had old console floor models that had many bands on them ,loved those sets used to stay up late at night to see what I could tune in from ?far away, again thanks so much ,take care and stay safe all the very best Rick? |
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Re: New caps in a FRG-7
Hello Rick, I have 2 FRG-7 from around the same year and until they are showing signs of problems I won't change the caps. Also I don't believe that you have to do a re-alignment because most of the caps are used for DC buffering / filtering. |
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Re: New caps in a FRG-7
I agree with Phil. Transistor based radios operating on low DC voltage rarely have capacitor problems. The higher the voltage the more likely you are to have capacitor problems. It doesn't hurt to visually inspect the electrolytic capacitors and replace any that show leakage or bulging. The main problem with replacing all of the electrolytic capacitors is the cheap circuit board material used in almost all Japanese radios. The boards work OK for new assembly but not so much for repairs. The glue holding down the traces may let go if overheated. An ESR meter would be a good first non-destructive capacitor tester. There are also in circuit capacitor testers for further non-destructive testing.
73 Roger VE7LB |
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New caps in a FRG-7
Hello fellows I picked up a 1976 Yaesu Musen FRG-7 this year from Dan in Quebec ,this unit seems to work fine but I was always told a unit this old should have
?the electrolytic caps changed, do you fellows think they should all be changed for new ones and if I get the kit and do it will I have to do a realignment ,I have no problem? ?changing the caps but if I have to do realignment better I leave it alone ,I am sure I could not realign it properly ,any advice fellows ,thanks so much for your? ?time all the very best Rick |
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Replacing T101
I had to replace T101 in my FRG. The small winding (the one closer to the antenna input) turned out to be interrupted, so I couldn't receive any more in the A band. My attempts stopped a long time ago, so at present time I can't recall all the steps I made to set up a home-made replacement for that transformer. For sure I couldn't use the original tiny coil former. The main winding might even have broken off, while I was handling that delicate component. Both windings, in fact, were made of extremely thin enameled wire. I made my deductions concerning a possible value for the parallel inductance in the preselector (the main winding). I considered the frequencies involved for the A band and the maximum and minimum capacity the variable air capacitor may give, considering how it is used for the A band (I inspected the schematic). Signals on A band came back, but I had to face an imperfection: readings on preselector's scale after adjusting are not coherent with the received frequency readings. I asked for a test a friend of mine owns a FRG-7 as well. So I eventually concluded the mentioned behavior is not normal.
Has anyone here possibly faced and fixed the same issue? So far I couldn't even find the service manual, but I suppose the alignment procedure for the preselector might be acting on the inductance to tune at the lowest frequency of A band, and acting instead on the trimmer capacitor to align the preselector around 1.6 MHz. I've in mind to get back to work with that receiver. Meanwhile, I tried to ask here, after realizing this is a new place for FRG-7 owners after the Yahoo Groups service was discontinued. Thanks in advance! A. |
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Re: Yaesu frg-7 red power rocker switch
I took another look at eBay. See item 124299468972. It appears that the same seller has red switches. He also gives away the manufacturer in his pictures. The pictures show the red toggle removed from the switch. He might sell you just the red part. Google fujisoku switch and quite a few sites come up.
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Re: Yaesu frg-7 red power rocker switch
Hi Roger, Its the red bit I want, the switch is fine but the red piece is very wobbly and can be easily pulled off the switch, I want to replace that with a tighter one. Cheers Steve On Tue, 29 Sep 2020 at 16:22, Roger VE7LB <Roger_VE7LB@...> wrote: Hi Steve, |
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Re: Yaesu frg-7 red power rocker switch
Hi Steve,
Look at eBay item # 124331786820. Two switches for $15. The only problem is that they are grey and black. You may be able to remove the red outer section and put it on the grey switch. That leaves the black one for use if that doesn't work. 73 Roger VE7LB ? |
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Re: Filter mod - need help
Hi Roger
Just to close the circle on this.? My amateur friend restored the FRG-7 back to original spec viz the filter and discovered a dry solder joint on the IF board while he was at it.? Fixing that plus an alignment has it running better than ever.? It's great to have it back!? Thanks for replying. 73 Phil |
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Re: Filter mod - need help
Thanks Roger I should have explained that the pictures show the filters now removed from the board. Since my posting I have enlisted the help of a much more technically competent amateur friend and obtained some information from a member of the Australian Radio DX Club here.? We (he) is optimistic it can be sorted.? I shall post back if that all fails. Many thanks for your reply. 73 Phil Best wishes Phil Sent with Secure Email. ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ On Sunday, August 9, 2020 10:32 AM, Roger VE7LB <Roger_VE7LB@...> wrote:
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Re: Filter mod - need help
Hi Phil,
It's hard to tell what's wrong from the two pictures. The only obvious thing is the bare copper wire not being grounded. It looks like it was under a screw head at one time. If that doesn't work pictures of the other ends of the four grey coaxes might help. 73 Roger VE7LB ? |
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Filter mod - need help
Hello all
My FRG 7 had a filter mod done at some stage in its life and I need some help to work out how to wire it up properly.? It's a long story, but while recapping the radio the filter, which was wired into the mode switch, came adrift.? Completely operator error, but of course now I am having trouble now working out how to wire the filter back in.? I have attached two photos showing the filters. Any help appreciated.? Radio works well, but is now deaf. cheers, Phil |
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