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Re: Photo resizing all done, feel free to upload!
Thanks for all your hard work to keep this group going and more efficient/streamlined. I really don't post much but I do read along! On Tue, Jul 28, 2020, 6:40 PM paul fox <pgf@...> wrote: Whew.? My mouse hand is tired. |
Photo resizing all done, feel free to upload!
Whew. My mouse hand is tired.
Our group photos used to take 1.3Gb of storage. Now they take 323Mb. It took the group 7 years to fill that 323Mb. It hope it's a while until we hit the 1Gb ceiling again. Things to know: I've reenabled the Photos section. Images are resized automatically to a maxiumum of 1024x1024 when you upload. Because there are _some_ photos that would benefit from higher resolutions than that, I've also turned on the ability to store photos in the Files section, where no resizing takes place. Please don't do this unless it's really necessary. (I can also temporarily disable the automatic resizing if you really need to upload higher res photos, and want then in a Photos album.) I may enable photo attachments, but haven't decided yet. I think having to create an album and do an upload just to illustrate a point in email is cumbersome. I'll look into it. I did skip a few albums intentionally, so they're still at their full resolutions. Helen DeFoe's photos of, and taken by, Allen Wilson himself, for instance. The "Hertzberg plate" is another. (That one should probably be in Files.) I fumbled fingered while dealing with two albums, and hit "Delete" on the album, instead of on the next photo. So those two needed to be fully recreated, and as a result they now appear as our two newest albums. The orginal creation date is mentioned in the descriptions. I did not change ownership of individual photos back to the original owner -- that would have been a lot more clicks. So all the re-uploads are owned by me. The albums themselves should still have the correct owner -- I hope that's sufficient. If not, let me know. Photos within albums may be in a different order than they were before. If an email thread refers to the album, and pictures were added incrementally over time, the thread might now seem confusing. (Not sure about this.) Also, the album cover picture may have changed, if groups.io was selecting it based on upload order. In addition, if you had set a specific photo to be the album cover picture, that choice has been lost. Summary: if you don't like your album cover picture, change it. (You'll see a checkbox if you "edit" the picture that you want to choose.) If you deleted an album recently to help save space, I'm sorry you felt you needed to do that. You're welcome to recreate your album and re-upload those pictures if you'd like. (In some cases, I may have a copy, if I took my snapshot before you deleted. But I won't upload them without you asking.) Let me know if you see any issues! paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 87.4 degrees) |
group Photo gallery progress
Hi --
I've started downloading and re-uploading the contents of all of the albums in our Photos section, in order to reduce our storage footprint. Anything uploaded will be reduced to a max of 1024x1024. It's going smoothly. Not fast, but smoothly. :-) I can do an album at a time, and I have a full backup of all of the photos in case I have a thinko and delete something and forget to put it back. But that's unlikely. Access to the Photos section has been turned off for a while. I'll be leaving it like that until I'm finished -- or, at least until we have enough free space to allow new uploads. So -- if the system sends you email saying your album was accessed or edited, or your photos were deleted, that's why. (I don't know if the system does send that kind of mail, but it might.) paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 88.9 degrees) |
Re: Hello from a new member
Thank you for the kind welcome! I hope you can get back to Turtle Island (North America) again soon.
And thanks for the offer of the Optima. ?I don¡¯t need that one, but good looking out! ?Modern Husqvarnas can be very nice, though. I have three. ?Trying to restrain myself from acquiring too many machines here..... Is it futile? |
Re: Hello from a new member
Hi Lifeboat H? There is a?Husqvarna Optima 610 going spare in Clinton ON originally?from the UK and recently blew a capacitor, I got it working since the grease had seized most of the rotating?parts. I was on the second leg finishing a blind hem when it smoked. I was running on 220v using both phases on a "split socket"? :-/ My guess is you don't want a modern machine even though it?is a solid cast aluminium frame. I bought my mother a?Brother SQ9130 she likes that better much easier for someone 84y regarding the speed control. I hope to be visiting Canada from the UK in September. John On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 12:40, Lifeboat H <therisa.rogers@...> wrote: Thank you for welcoming me!? I am new to vintage sewing machines.? The interest started with a love for Husqvarna sewing machines, and I went and bought a 6020 from 1967 or so, then a Class 12 from 1961.? Then a Singer 9W, which is why I came to this group.? I am in Toronto. |
Re: Looking for hinge for W&W D9 cabinet
Hi John, ? Very nice pictures and story of ingenuity.? Thanks for sharing.? The family watched a Netflix movie "The Boy Who Harnessed The Wind" last night and it was an incredible true story of triumph over hardships and ingenuity.? It turned into a couple discussions of how the Jacob brothers sat on the front porch watching and learning how to make one with an odd number of blades (four in the movie), furling techniques, and the problems beset poorer countries in the world.? I'm certain our 10 year old triplets will remember this movie for life.? Amazing what can be done with persistence and ingenuity. Best regards, Mike
On Monday, July 27, 2020, 02:37:09 PM GMT+8, John Harrison <jdhtyler@...> wrote:
Thanks for the tips.?Michael Kendall The previous owner had glued the broken bit onto the wood base; the break occurred?through the rear stitch length?screw hole. When in use you do not notice the break unless you lift the head. The seller told me lies and that the machine worked perfectly ? and for ?50 no haggling?I decided to take it. The other fault was the missing tiny bobbin tension screw, I found I could use one out of a singer, not perfect but it works. I had considered and may use fiberglass mat, I also have some very fine SS perforated mesh and if I use JB weld so the repair can be?seen below the head; on the top of the machine it will look just like a hairline crack there is no need to paint it. Another task will be to make some more bobbins out of copper sheet and tube. I did have quite a conversation with Mr Miller (very sad, he said he was ill), but good memories regarding his engineering knowledge about adapting industrial needles to fit the WWD9. I have a few other makes of machine that use non standard needles. [Jones, Bradbury and an Elsa] What is odd is that different makers of the same needle can have different diameters, I have quite a selection of PDFs that were compiled by someone else they make interesting reading? ? ? Welding - not Sewing - off topic ;-) waffle In the 1970s we had special cast iron rods, the funny thing was the shiny flux coating was conductive and when reaching in to repair a frost damaged engine?block you had to be careful what you brushed up against ;-) my dad was doing the welding and I was only 12ish. His biggest repair was a fire engine?gearbox that was in 16 pieces?welded an inch at a time over 2 days and kept warm on the forge residual heat. When finished and all reassembled?you could turn it over by hand but it did squeak?a bit ever so often ;-) He once used a piece?of scrap cast iron and plated a tractor that had a 12 inch split on the block, the tractor was outside in the yard. He said if this fails we will stitch drill and tap the split with bolts. Sad to say I was the last of my line 4th generation blacksmith but by the late 1980s I moved into electronics?and computing. I have included pictures to make you smile. My grandad made the micrometer with the shaper and geared threading lathe that are behind the horse. The gearbox reduction he designed and built?a few during WW2 so that an old car could be used as a tractor plough. all the best John |
Re: Looking for hinge for W&W D9 cabinet
Thanks for the tips.?Michael Kendall The previous owner had glued the broken bit onto the wood base; the break occurred?through the rear stitch length?screw hole. When in use you do not notice the break unless you lift the head. The seller told me lies and that the machine worked perfectly ? and for ?50 no haggling?I decided to take it. The other fault was the missing tiny bobbin tension screw, I found I could use one out of a singer, not perfect but it works. I had considered and may use fiberglass mat, I also have some very fine SS perforated mesh and if I use JB weld so the repair can be?seen below the head; on the top of the machine it will look just like a hairline crack there is no need to paint it. Another task will be to make some more bobbins out of copper sheet and tube. I did have quite a conversation with Mr Miller (very sad, he said he was ill), but good memories regarding his engineering knowledge about adapting industrial needles to fit the WWD9. I have a few other makes of machine that use non standard needles. [Jones, Bradbury and an Elsa] What is odd is that different makers of the same needle can have different diameters, I have quite a selection of PDFs that were compiled by someone else they make interesting reading? ? ? Welding - not Sewing - off topic ;-) waffle In the 1970s we had special cast iron rods, the funny thing was the shiny flux coating was conductive and when reaching in to repair a frost damaged engine?block you had to be careful what you brushed up against ;-) my dad was doing the welding and I was only 12ish. His biggest repair was a fire engine?gearbox that was in 16 pieces?welded an inch at a time over 2 days and kept warm on the forge residual heat. When finished and all reassembled?you could turn it over by hand but it did squeak?a bit ever so often ;-) He once used a piece?of scrap cast iron and plated a tractor that had a 12 inch split on the block, the tractor was outside in the yard. He said if this fails we will stitch drill and tap the split with bolts. Sad to say I was the last of my line 4th generation blacksmith but by the late 1980s I moved into electronics?and computing. I have included pictures to make you smile. My grandad made the micrometer with the shaper and geared threading lathe that are behind the horse. The gearbox reduction he designed and built?a few during WW2 so that an old car could be used as a tractor plough. all the best John On Mon, 27 Jul 2020 at 00:38, Michael Kendall via <michael.kendall=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: Looking for hinge for W&W D9 cabinet
Hello, ? I have a couple no 8's in our herd of W&W's.? One was cracked across the bed on the rear some time long ago.? The bed on the no 8 is thinner than what I am used to on machines.? I believe the stress that caused it to break was induced by the wooden base coming apart and allowing the stress to go to the bed when the case was being moved around.? My "fix" was single layer 10oz fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.? I then took felt and covered it with that.? Looks great and importantly very strong.? Some previous owner long ago drilled two holes in the bed then counter sunk and used pan head screws of fairly large size.? This person then threaded holes into flat bar and screwed it up against the bottom of the bed.? It is a fairly good repair and I guess I could smooth the bed over with epoxy and paint to make it near invisible. ? We have done cast iron repairs repeatedly using stainless steel welding rod of 2.0mm size.? I buy this electrode by the kilo.? First we tested on cast iron broken parts and found it works well.? Then I received a New Home machine that was broken entirely across the bed.? We used this technique to repair the bed and it really did come out good saving the machine but losing about a 1 inch wide section of decals where the break was on the bed and subsequently repaired.? Some black paint and nobody can tell on the top of bed except the loss of decals and black paint that doesn't match perfectly. Best regards, Mike
On Monday, July 27, 2020, 02:30:40 AM GMT+8, John Harrison <jdhtyler@...> wrote:
I would make a new one out of steel, you need to find a fabrication shop or even a handy garage.? We would used some flat steel and mig welder and grind it to shape and then drill (Family run Blacksmiths sad to say now sold, opened 1890s) JB weld glue will never be strong enough for this job [1] I don't think it cast iron (we could with special rods weld that ) normally a repair would be brazed. It is more likely?to be steel or iron and that can be welded if you wanted a new piece added on and then drill. My choice would be to replicate it out of flat steel or even cut some angle iron to give you the raised edge and no welding. I live in Wales UK so I am sorry I can't do more for you,?wish I could. I still have not fixed my WW D9 corner of the base is broken across the stitch length adjuster might JB weld it to save the paint ? all the best John? On Sun, 26 Jul 2020 at 18:48, Cathy Stephens <cathys8780@...> wrote:
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Re: Looking for hinge for W&W D9 cabinet
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI do not have any spare parts but could fabricate a new one easy enough, Blacksmiths and welders are not gone we are just harder to find. If you have both pieces it could be breezed or maybe welded, it certainly looks like cast iron. Unfortunately I do not blacksmith full time but if you want to send it to me I will repair or make a replacement as I can. It would probably not be fast unless my traveling work schedule slows down.Ken Jansen
On Jul 26, 2020, at 13:48, Cathy Stephens <cathys8780@...> wrote:
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Re: Looking for hinge for W&W D9 cabinet
I would make a new one out of steel, you need to find a fabrication shop or even a handy garage.? We would used some flat steel and mig welder and grind it to shape and then drill (Family run Blacksmiths sad to say now sold, opened 1890s) JB weld glue will never be strong enough for this job [1] I don't think it cast iron (we could with special rods weld that ) normally a repair would be brazed. It is more likely?to be steel or iron and that can be welded if you wanted a new piece added on and then drill. My choice would be to replicate it out of flat steel or even cut some angle iron to give you the raised edge and no welding. I live in Wales UK so I am sorry I can't do more for you,?wish I could. I still have not fixed my WW D9 corner of the base is broken across the stitch length adjuster might JB weld it to save the paint ? all the best John? On Sun, 26 Jul 2020 at 18:48, Cathy Stephens <cathys8780@...> wrote:
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Looking for hinge for W&W D9 cabinet
I have a broken hinge bracket for a W&W D9 treadle.? It is the right side hinge for the machine lift.?The bracket has a pin in?it that goes into the side of the frame and is what allows the support frame that holds the machine to pivot.? Anyone have extra Wheeler and Wilson treadle cabinet parts? See pictures in this folder for details of what I am looking for. Thanks for any help you can provide....or suggestions on what to do if I can't get a replacement. Cathy Stephens |
Re: Introduction - new member
#introduction
Christy M Strand
Thanks for the links! I cleaned it up, but my needles are late so I can't find out if it sews yet.?
Next will be tackling the table, which is a bit daunting. I'm not good at woodwork things. |
Re: Introduction - new member
#introduction
christy m strand wrote:
> Hi everyone. I've been collecting old sewing machines for several > years now, but last week got my very first Wheeler & Wilson. Welcome! > It's a #8, apparently the later style since it has a different > bobbin case. I'm still waiting on needles, so I don't know if it > sews yet, but everything turns over smoothly. The table and coffin > top are going to need a lot of work, though. > > I hope it sews well, because I think I love it already. They're great machines. I found a couple of messages that Miller wrote about bobbins and cases: /g/Wheeler_and_Wilson-Sewing-Machines/message/3281 and /g/Wheeler_and_Wilson-Sewing-Machines/message/3530 And along the way, also some photos of bobbins from various W&W machines: /g/Wheeler_and_Wilson-Sewing-Machines/album?id=342 I'm afraid we can't upload photos to the site at the moment -- that's a work in progress (for me) -- but there's a lot of good stuff in old messages and the previously uploaded pictures. paul =---------------------- paul fox, pgf@... (arlington, ma, where it's 75.0 degrees) |
Introduction - new member
#introduction
Christy M Strand
Hi everyone. I've been collecting old sewing machines for several years now, but last week got my very first Wheeler & Wilson.
It's a #8, apparently the later style since it has a different bobbin case. I'm still waiting on needles, so I don't know if it sews yet, but everything turns over smoothly. The table and coffin top are going to need a lot of work, though.? I hope it sews well, because I think I love it already. |
intro from phylis steelman
[ Phylis sent this to the group owners' address by mistake, so I'm
resending it. -- paul ] Thank you for adding me to the group. I am from Chickasha, OK. Have a number of vintage machines, purchased my first Wheeler Wilson #8 last night. It needs cleaning and I am not certain what else. It does move but needs some smoothing out. I have restored some other completely frozen machines in the past but think I am going to have lots of questions about this one. I wanted a Wheeler Wilson for my herd because I began my sewing career on my mother's Wheeler Wilson #9 when I was five years old. |
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