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Chain tension
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Just noticed while lubing my chain:
Through most of the travel of the chain, I can turn the rear wheel easily with a finger touch. The chain is actually a bit loose - 1.75" play at the middle. Keep turning and it gets to a really tight spot - it takes some effort (whole hand) to turn the wheel; the chain on top and bottom is taught - almost no play - and as it settles into this position, you can hear the chain creak a bit... Not so good... Maybe that's why my W feels like it's working extra hard... Time for a new chain? If so: the manual makes it sound like you have to take apart half the bike - rear wheel, swing arm, etc... Do you folks usually do this yourselves? (i.e. should I make the attempt myself, having never done anything of this scale?). How long does it take? Thanks! - Rob |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýYup, chain is shot. Likely the sprockets are gone, especially
the front as it tends to hook if it's the stock part.
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It's and endless chain and needs to be broken, then you don't
need to remove the swingarm. Then a new endless chain would be riveted
on.
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Personally, I'd use a masterlink.
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Dennis
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Martin Taylor
Get a chain splitter, push the rivet out, attach the new chain to the old one and pull through before joining the new one up. Buy a chain with a master link. Works perfectly. Don't forget to check the sprockets out and replace if necessary.
________________________________ From: W650riders@... on behalf of zottomagic Sent: Wed 04/07/2007 20:51 To: W650riders@... Subject: [W650riders] Chain tension Just noticed while lubing my chain: Through most of the travel of the chain, I can turn the rear wheel easily with a finger touch. The chain is actually a bit loose - 1.75" play at the middle. Keep turning and it gets to a really tight spot - it takes some effort (whole hand) to turn the wheel; the chain on top and bottom is taught - almost no play - and as it settles into this position, you can hear the chain creak a bit... Not so good... Maybe that's why my W feels like it's working extra hard... Time for a new chain? If so: the manual makes it sound like you have to take apart half the bike - rear wheel, swing arm, etc... Do you folks usually do this yourselves? (i.e. should I make the attempt myself, having never done anything of this scale?). How long does it take? Thanks! - Rob |
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Thanks Martin & Dennis. That's much easier. I've clearly never tried
a master link chain - anything different about them in use? (e.g. lifetime, lube/clean, etc). What should I look for on the sprockets? The teeth seem symmetric (leading & trailing edges look the same). Any recommendations for a particular chain or supplier? / Rob --- In W650riders@..., "Martin Taylor" <martin.taylor@...> wrote: the old one and pull through before joining the new one up. Buy a chain with a master link. Works perfectly. Don't forget to check the sprockets out and replace if necessary. |
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I use DID 'X' ring. It has rubber seals to keep crap out of the joints, only needs a light oiling to keep nice, doesn't stretch, and doesn't therefore hook the sprockets or need adjustment. It's designed for much more powerful bikes so the W hardly bothers it at all. Spend money on the over-engineered expensive good stuff and it seems you only spend once!
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Thanks Martin & Dennis. That's much easier. I've clearly never tried |
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Martin Taylor
1. if the teeth are hooked i.e. very worn on the pointy bit.. best to replace.If the sprockets are symmetrical the tight spot on your chain is probably either siezure of that part of the linkage or stretching due to heavy sudden accelaration.
2. the useage of the chain is exactly the same as a closed chain. The only important thing to remember is that the closed end of the spring clip which seals the join on the new chain is in the direction of travel. If the open end of the spring clip faces the direction of travel the whole thing will pull apart. 3. I have fitted a scottoiler to my W and this keeps the chain lubricated. They are fairly easy to fit and seem to do the job. I have had mine for about 2000 miles. ________________________________ From: W650riders@... on behalf of zottomagic Sent: Thu 05/07/2007 18:26 To: W650riders@... Subject: [W650riders] Re: Chain tension Thanks Martin & Dennis. That's much easier. I've clearly never tried a master link chain - anything different about them in use? (e.g. lifetime, lube/clean, etc). What should I look for on the sprockets? The teeth seem symmetric (leading & trailing edges look the same). Any recommendations for a particular chain or supplier? / Rob --- In W650riders@... <mailto:W650riders%40yahoogroups.com> , "Martin Taylor" <martin.taylor@...> wrote: the old one and pull through before joining the new one up. Buy a chain with a master link. Works perfectly. Don't forget to check the sprockets out and replace if necessary. |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýRob
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See this for proper master link assembly;
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Get a DID X-Ring chain, they're the best and will last the
longest. Make sure the master link is included. Try to buy one that is already
cut to the proper length (number of rollers).
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Here's more info than you'll probably ever need to know about
sprockets and chains. This is for a BMW F650, ignore the F650 specific install
notes. Lots of good stuff;
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Dennis
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Thanks all for the suggestions & links. The front sprocket was just
starting to hook (slightly concave on one side), so I replaced it with the chain. The bike runs sooo much smoother now - it's like it's young again. I ended up getting a DID O-ring because that's all that I could find locally and I didn't want to wait for mail-order. The dealer markup was huge ($150 for a 130-link DID-O-ring). That impatience taught me a lesson, though: order online next time - get what I want at a better price. |
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