Re: Low bar brake line in the US
Yes I installed the OEM Kawasaki Euro bars.
All part numbers are listed here -?
On Mon, May 16, 2022 at 1:45 AM Matthew Szostak < gurdy4me@...> wrote: Did you install the “official” Kawasaki low bars? On May 15, 2022, at 10:23 PM, Sujit Kirpekar < kirpekar@...> wrote:
I installed low bars and also used the steel braided brake lines from HEL. They worked out great. The SKU is?HBF4313
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Re: Low bar brake line in the US
Did you install the “official” Kawasaki low bars?
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On May 15, 2022, at 10:23 PM, Sujit Kirpekar < kirpekar@...> wrote:
I installed low bars and also used the steel braided brake lines from HEL. They worked out great. The SKU is?HBF4313
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Re: Low bar brake line in the US
I installed low bars and also used the steel braided brake lines from HEL. They worked out great. The SKU is?HBF4313
Hi all - I switched to the low bar cables for my clubman bars a while back, save the brake line.? Rather than ordering a new OEM low bar line, I thought I ought switch to braided stainless.
HEL in the UK have pre-manufactured ones at 56$ shipped.? Imagine others have done this as well or do you all prefer the stock feel? Found a similar quality stainless a bit cheaper?
Thanks
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Low bar brake line in the US
Hi all - I switched to the low bar cables for my clubman bars a while back, save the brake line.? Rather than ordering a new OEM low bar line, I thought I ought switch to braided stainless.
HEL in the UK have pre-manufactured ones at 56$ shipped.? Imagine others have done this as well or do you all prefer the stock feel? Found a similar quality stainless a bit cheaper?
Thanks
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Greetings fellow Dubyaheads,
Long time lurker, first time poster here. I have a 2000 W in great running shape despite having sat outside and unridden for at least three years prior to my acquiring it in 2016, but over the last 6 years I have been unable to solve a problem that is particularly troublesome. If the tank is more than half full (or half empty depending on how you look at it) It will leak gas out of the filler cap when warm. As it seemed like what would happen if the vent tube was clogged I replaced the hose on the vent nipple but did not improve the situation. I also replaced the filler cap to no avail. I ran it like this for four years simply never filling the tank more than halfway as a non-solution solution. I took a break from riding it over the past two years and when I got it back on the road last week I was determined to solve the problem this time by focusing on the metal vent tube that goes through the tank. I used a guitar string to ream it out and got it to a point where it seemed like I could feel air out of the hose when I shot compressed air into the vent hole under the cap. This seemed to solve the problem, but I noticed a very small amount of fuel at the end of the hose after a short ride, indicating that the vent tube in the tank was compromised by my reaming with a steel guitar string. Even worse, the tank cap leak came back shortly thereafter.
So my question is whether the tank vent system is the only possible cause of my filler cap leak? One thing that might be important to know is that the fuel cap was stuck shut when I purchased the bike. Secondarily, as it now seems that I have created a pinhole in my vent tube, and have not had luck with finding local bike or auto body shops that want to work on fixing the tank, is there anyone on this listserv that knows of a repair shop in northern california that will or has a spare fuel tank in usable shape that they want to sell?
Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
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W650 Chain guard/guide production
I ordered a new chain guide/guard from webike japan and apparently it's out of production.? Will one for a W800 fit?? I think the W800 has a 500 chain vs. the 525 on the w650. W650 version is available in the US but it's cheaper over there and with my order. 
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Re: Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
Hi w650 riders On the 2005 machine that I have, there have been made a few improvements. In the front forks. There have been put top spacers that are one inch longer than the original. Known as poor man,s progressive springs. Bit stiffer suspension that stops a dive on bumps or bottoming. Made them myself. Put grease nipples on the swingarm?at the center and foot brake axel on the frame. Rather than the standard size tires, I use 140x80x18 rear and 110x90x19 front. they are slightly larger. Replaced the airbox with pods and exhaust with imported Posh exhausts from web bike Japan. Carbs have to be slightly up jetted and needles given a shim, a tiny holed washer will do. Put a toggle?switch on the front light side holder to be able to manually switch on and off the front lights. Put a smear of copper grease on all nuts and bolts and add a washer if none originally. Always kick it over to start. Safe riding,? Peter
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Re: Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
Only about 22 years older! lost a little weight Here's some pictures of my 2001 that I bought from Ed Simmer heading South down the West coast in 2018 Alohapaul
On Thursday, May 12, 2022, 12:11:42 PM HST, Captain Jake <jake@...> wrote:
Yep, that's what AlohaPaul looks like, I remember. Are you saying
you look different now?
On 5/12/2022 3:40 PM, Paul via
groups.io wrote:
Crazy to think these are old
enough to have rust issue's! I guess its about where you live,
you cold country dwellers have to contend with salted roads
and slush, here in the Tropic's, the humidity play's Hell with
all the shiny bits I've had my 2000 for 22 years now and
always thought of the W as a Classic, well worth the care.
Here's me and my W when it was New (Me, not so much)
Alohapaul
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Re: Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
Yep, that's what AlohaPaul looks like, I remember. Are you saying
you look different now?
On 5/12/2022 3:40 PM, Paul via
groups.io wrote:
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Crazy to think these are old
enough to have rust issue's! I guess its about where you live,
you cold country dwellers have to contend with salted roads
and slush, here in the Tropic's, the humidity play's Hell with
all the shiny bits I've had my 2000 for 22 years now and
always thought of the W as a Classic, well worth the care.
Here's me and my W when it was New (Me, not so much)
Alohapaul
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Re: Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
So if you just wait 33 more years, the W will look like your W2!
Such a gorgeous bike, in all 3 pictures.
Jake in Argyle
On 5/12/2022 3:53 PM, PatH via
groups.io wrote:
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It helps to be a little older.? Seems I park my W
out of the sun and rain these days. I didn't with my W2 and at
30 years it showed. First photo is W2 @ 30 years. Second photo
is W2 at 55 years old. Third is the W at 22 years.
Sent from
my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 5/12/22 4:40 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [W650Riders] Derustification II: Rust Never
Sleeps.
Crazy to think these are old
enough to have rust issue's! I guess its about where you live,
you cold country dwellers have to contend with salted roads
and slush, here in the Tropic's, the humidity play's Hell with
all the shiny bits I've had my 2000 for 22 years now and
always thought of the W as a Classic, well worth the care.
Here's me and my W when it was New (Me, not so much)
Alohapaul
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Re: Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
It helps to be a little older.? Seems I park my W out of the sun and rain these days. I didn't with my W2 and at 30 years it showed. First photo is W2 @ 30 years. Second photo is W2 at 55 years old. Third is the W at 22 years.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: "Paul via groups.io" <baillieandsons@...> Date: 5/12/22 4:40 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [W650Riders] Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
Crazy to think these are old enough to have rust issue's! I guess its about where you live, you cold country dwellers have to contend with salted roads and slush, here in the Tropic's, the humidity play's Hell with all the shiny bits I've had my 2000 for 22 years now and always thought of the W as a Classic, well worth the care. Here's me and my W when it was New (Me, not so much) Alohapaul
On Thursday, May 12, 2022, 12:45:55 AM HST, Sal Emma <bikewriter@...> wrote:
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Re: Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
Crazy to think these are old enough to have rust issue's! I guess its about where you live, you cold country dwellers have to contend with salted roads and slush, here in the Tropic's, the humidity play's Hell with all the shiny bits I've had my 2000 for 22 years now and always thought of the W as a Classic, well worth the care. Here's me and my W when it was New (Me, not so much) Alohapaul
On Thursday, May 12, 2022, 12:45:55 AM HST, Sal Emma <bikewriter@...> wrote:
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Re: Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
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Big job(s), good work!
Ruari ?Underside of the frame with the center stand mounts.?  Probably 90% of that rust was hidden under the paint and some of the paint was hidden under grime. This is probably not a part of the bike that gets a frequent thorough wash and wax job. The paint is subjected to the elements and this part of the bike gets some pretty harsh elements. Road grit that's like sandblasting, road salt, dust, high temperature because it's right up next to the engine, etc. Plenty of crannies where water can sit a while too.? Interesting thing on the frame I'd never noticed before, drain holes for those frame tubes.?  I figure there's going to be rust inside the tube around those holes. It's going to be difficult to get liquid rust converter up in there and I'm not sure how far inside spray can deruster is going to get either. It'd be easy using a rotisserie but I don't have one of those, and I'm not crazy about turning the whole bike upside down, but my tired brain at the moment has limited ability to ponder the situation.? I am encouraged by the work I've done so far. I zapped a lot of small rust spots and put a new coat of paint on the back end of the frame. Fortunately the chrome on the shocks is still in good shape and only needed a good cleaning and polishing to get that to look new. The upper part of the shocks had weary paint so I redid them.?   I'm also planning on getting all the clear coat off the engine casings and clean polish them to eliminate the corrosion. Unfortunately the camshaft tube chrome has long since worn off and being immensely difficult to replace, if I can't get the steel polished so it look I might paint it black. I'm thinking that's what Triumph or BSA would have done to save a few pence on the chrome plating costs.? This is all a lot easier with the mufflers off so you can get to those parts of the frame that are hidden behind?
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Re: Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
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On May 11, 2022, at 6:38 PM, Tom Herling <thomasjherling@...> wrote:
?Underside of the frame with the center stand mounts.?  Probably 90% of that rust was hidden under the paint and some of the paint was hidden under grime. This is probably not a part of the bike that gets a frequent thorough wash and wax job. The paint is subjected to the elements and this part of the bike gets some pretty harsh elements. Road grit that's like sandblasting, road salt, dust, high temperature because it's right up next to the engine, etc. Plenty of crannies where water can sit a while too.? Interesting thing on the frame I'd never noticed before, drain holes for those frame tubes.?  I figure there's going to be rust inside the tube around those holes. It's going to be difficult to get liquid rust converter up in there and I'm not sure how far inside spray can deruster is going to get either. It'd be easy using a rotisserie but I don't have one of those, and I'm not crazy about turning the whole bike upside down, but my tired brain at the moment has limited ability to ponder the situation.? I am encouraged by the work I've done so far. I zapped a lot of small rust spots and put a new coat of paint on the back end of the frame. Fortunately the chrome on the shocks is still in good shape and only needed a good cleaning and polishing to get that to look new. The upper part of the shocks had weary paint so I redid them.?   I'm also planning on getting all the clear coat off the engine casings and clean polish them to eliminate the corrosion. Unfortunately the camshaft tube chrome has long since worn off and being immensely difficult to replace, if I can't get the steel polished so it look I might paint it black. I'm thinking that's what Triumph or BSA would have done to save a few pence on the chrome plating costs.? This is all a lot easier with the mufflers off so you can get to those parts of the frame that are hidden behind?
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Derustification II: Rust Never Sleeps.
Underside of the frame with the center stand mounts.? Probably 90% of that rust was hidden under the paint and some of the paint was hidden under grime. This is probably not a part of the bike that gets a frequent thorough wash and wax job. The paint is subjected to the elements and this part of the bike gets some pretty harsh elements. Road grit that's like sandblasting, road salt, dust, high temperature because it's right up next to the engine, etc. Plenty of crannies where water can sit a while too.? Interesting thing on the frame I'd never noticed before, drain holes for those frame tubes.?  I figure there's going to be rust inside the tube around those holes. It's going to be difficult to get liquid rust converter up in there and I'm not sure how far inside spray can deruster is going to get either. It'd be easy using a rotisserie but I don't have one of those, and I'm not crazy about turning the whole bike upside down, but my tired brain at the moment has limited ability to ponder the situation.? I am encouraged by the work I've done so far. I zapped a lot of small rust spots and put a new coat of paint on the back end of the frame. Fortunately the chrome on the shocks is still in good shape and only needed a good cleaning and polishing to get that to look new. The upper part of the shocks had weary paint so I redid them.?   I'm also planning on getting all the clear coat off the engine casings and clean polish them to eliminate the corrosion. Unfortunately the camshaft tube chrome has long since worn off and being immensely difficult to replace, if I can't get the steel polished so it look I might paint it black. I'm thinking that's what Triumph or BSA would have done to save a few pence on the chrome plating costs.? This is all a lot easier with the mufflers off so you can get to those parts of the frame that are hidden behind
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Re: Short OEM blinkers in the front
Damn, I was afraid someone might ask!
Unfortunately, it was years ago and I didn't take photos, in fact, when I took the pic for my reply I found myself asking ' how did I do that?!' (it's an age thing...) I'm guessing I cut down the black plastic and filed down the new end to replicate the original shape. Sorry I can't help more but the bottom line is 'if I can do it, it can't be that difficult.
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Re: Short OEM blinkers in the front
Didn't by chance take photos of this operation?
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Re: Short OEM blinkers in the front
I shortened the black plastic parts of the originals for exactly the same reason as you: a stupid mishap many years ago resulting in the bike sliding up the road on it's side, the indicator folding back alongside the tank and putting a very expensive dent in
the tank. After that, I reasoned that shortening them like I've done would hopefully prevent the indicator 'reaching' the tank if I'm ever stupid enough to do that again!
All the best
Tony Bellworthy
Exeter
UK
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Re: Short OEM blinkers in the front
Interesting… and surprising! ?On my 2000 USA model the black “rubber” part of the turn signal stalk is about a half-inch shorter on the rear signal…
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On Apr 28, 2022, at 1:00 PM, John Whit < whitj@...> wrote:
On my 2001US model front and rear signals are the same length.
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Re: Short OEM blinkers in the front
On my 2001US model front and rear signals are the same length.
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Paul
Captain Jake
PatH
Ruari McLennan
Tom Herling
