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Re: New Member - Al M Sirius Optics
sloanpk2000
Hi James,
Visual appearance can be very deceiving. I can do a run or two and some testing, no problem. I have found pure aluminum to be as high as 90% and sometimes 91%. I usually get a better coating by pumping down to about 1X10-6 Torr before coating. I have seen coatings done with 1X10-3 Torr. With silver, its very important to have fine overcoats for protection. I always finish off with amorphous(non crystalline) materials such as SiO2 or SiO. In talking with others, I have found that the smoothest aluminum coats are done at room temperature. The reason I use chromium is because its the universal thin-films bonding material. It requires special materials to strip it. Most acids won't touch it. Our machines have very rapid cycle times. Pump down is about 15 minutes. We may be coming into a number of powerful roughing pumps at very low prices from Boeing Surplus in Seattle. I'll let you know about them. These are capable of 4X10-4 Torr. We run our Cryos at about 10 Kelvin. Al M --- In VacuumX@..., "James Lerch" <jlerch1@t...> wrote: Hi Al,distance from source to target, number of sources, Chamber details, etc.. method? (links are fine, just curious about the theory behind it..) some of my 'secret sauce' (aka Reynolds Wrap, ~100nm thick) onto a surface and measure its reflectivity for me? Since I'm pretty much financially stuck with Tungsten thermal sources (there cheap!) I'm left to play with only single layer coatings. So far my 'secret source' (an alloy of Al, Fe, SI) physically appears superior to pure Al in many ways (good adhesion, very few pinholes (often none), and significantly more resistant to scratch/sleeks during intentionally torturous cleanings), however I have often wondered about its reflectivity... (it looks shiny :) true :) coating site) ----- Original Message -----for about 20 years.Other equipment includes spectrometers, photometers, and14KV system. We feed these power supplies with 3 phase 220V at 100Amp.Two of them are air-cooled. The 14KV system is water cooled.starts with about 20nm of Chromium, followed by 130nm of Aluminum andthis combo. I find that very few people use Ta2O5.pinholing. The Ta2O5 is an extremely adherent material and combines verywell with SiO2. I have silver mirrors that I coated the same way. Ihave one mirror in my MN56 that is over 3 years old and is still like |
Re: Silvered mirror coating
James, If you can do it a stack for a silver mirror that is reported to be highly stable is: Glass - NiCrNx (8?) - silver (1200?) - NiCrNx(2-8?) - SiNx (100?) [146a]. The NiCrNx seems to act as a nucleating layer for both the silver and the SiNx protective layer. 146a. J.D. Wolfe, R.E. Laird, C.K. Carniglia and J.P Lehan, p. 115 in Technical Digest OSA, Optical Interference Coatings Conference (1995); also P.D. Fuqua and J.D. Barrie, "Optical Properties and Corrosion Resistance of Durable Silver Coatings," p. 85 in Properties and Processing of Vapor-Deposited Coatings, edited by R. Johnson, W. Lee, M. Pickering, B. Sheldon, Material Research Society Proceedings, Vol. 555 (1998) Regards, Don Mattox Hi Al,____________________________________ Donald M. Mattox Technical Director Society of Vacuum Coaters 71 Pinon Hill Place NE Albuquerque, NM 87122-1914 Telephone 505/856-7188 FAX 505/856-6716 E-mail donmattox@... WebSite |
Re: Silvered mirror coating
sloanpk2000
Hi,
I have also silver coated glass and used Zirconium Dioxide(ZrO2) and SiO2 as enhancing layers. ZrO2 is wickedly tough and requires a great deal of power to evaporate. The chamber become very hot after evaporating ZrO2. I have done a few of these for friends and it seems to have an indefinite life. I feel that its very important to have multiple layers to fully protect silver. I may try the Reynolds Wrap aluminum later this weeks. I'll need about 200g to place in the crucible. I may just melt it in the kiln. Al M --- In VacuumX@..., SVC <donmattox@s...> wrote: in TechnicalJames, Digest OSA, Optical Interference Coatings Conference (1995); alsoLee, M. Pickering, B. Sheldon, Material Research Society Proceedings,Vol. 555 (1998)details, it..)etc.. some muchof my 'secret sauce' (aka Reynolds Wrap, ~100nm thick) onto a purefinancially stuck with Tungsten thermal sources (there cheap!) I'm andAl in many ways (good adhesion, very few pinholes (often none), intentionallysignificantly more resistant to scratch/sleeks during true :)torturous cleanings), however I have often wondered about its telescope forconstruction,testing, and coating site) Otherabout 20 years. Twoequipment includes spectrometers, photometers, and startsof them are air-cooled. The 14KV system is water cooled. with about 20nm of Chromium, followed by 130nm of Aluminum and< 0 0_06F/g22lp?Target=mm/g22lp.tmpl>____________________________________ |
New file uploaded to VacuumX
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the VacuumX group. File : /vdep.JPG Uploaded by : sloanpk2000 <amisiuk@...> Description : Vacuum Deposition System You can access this file at the URL To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit Regards, sloanpk2000 <amisiuk@...> |
New file uploaded to VacuumX
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the VacuumX group. File : /vdep1.JPG Uploaded by : sloanpk2000 <amisiuk@...> Description : Chamber Opened You can access this file at the URL To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit Regards, sloanpk2000 <amisiuk@...> |
Re: New file uploaded to VacuumX
sloanpk2000
Hi,
This is one of the 3 systems used by Sirius Optics. Its actually my least favorite. Tp the left is the chiller. We maintain all components at 20C while in operation. The chamber is 20" diameter. To the far right is the 14KV power supply with the control panel on top. We vent the system with nitrogen seen against the wall. This unit employs a roughing pump, and a cryopump and liquid nitrogen boost. Al M |
Re: Bell Jar
Ken Hunter
--- In VacuumX@..., "cghlcon" <cghlcon@d...> wrote:
Looking for a glass bell jar that is at least 7.5" in insideDon't know what you are going to use to evacuate the chamber or do with it once vacuumed but have you considered a plastic/acrylic tube with an end plate of aluminum or brass instead? You might be able to find a Pyrex or glass tube about that size but I don't know if they make a Bell Jar to those dimensions. Ken Hunter |
Re: Bell Jar
cghlcon
Thanks, Ken. I'm actually not going to use it to create a vacuum
but rather to house and protect a painting painted on a bottle. I was referred to this group by an Ebay seller. Carlos Lazaro --- In VacuumX@..., "Ken Hunter" <atm_ken_hunter@y...> wrote: --- In VacuumX@..., "cghlcon" <cghlcon@d...> wrote:tubeLooking for a glass bell jar that is at least 7.5" in insideDon't know what you are going to use to evacuate the chamber or do with an end plate of aluminum or brass instead? You might be ableto find a Pyrex or glass tube about that size but I don't know ifthey make a Bell Jar to those dimensions. |
Re: Bell Jar
Ken Hunter
Yeah...
I frequent the eBay search [ "bell jar" -plath ] quite often. There's always some of those glass cloche jars and short display jars but I've never seen one that long (tall). For your use, I'd suggest that you look in the "plastics" section of your local telephone book and find an acrylic or plastic tube and have someone turn a top and bottom plug out of some nice Burl wood, that would look pretty good. If you were local to me, I'd do the plugs for you after I finish the move to Amarillo over the next weeks. If you can't find a bell jar and decide to do the tube/plug route and can't find someone locally to do the plugs in the next month or so, get back with me and I'll see what we can do to get you fixed up. Ken Hunter --- In VacuumX@..., "cghlcon" <cghlcon@d...> wrote: Thanks, Ken. I'm actually not going to use it to create a vacuumor dopoint me to a cheap source, please let me know. Thanks.Don't know what you are going to use to evacuate the chamber or with it once vacuumed but have you considered a plastic/acrylictubewith an end plate of aluminum or brass instead? You might be abletofind a Pyrex or glass tube about that size but I don't know iftheymake a Bell Jar to those dimensions. |
Repair of old Gast vacuum pump
grantfair2001
I have a used, surplus, Gast vacuum pump, never used in 25 years,
which I recently fired up to provide air to a "sparger" in a PCB etchant tank. I had to clean up the motor a bit so it would turn. At first it did not output any air to speak of, then, it seemed to kick in after 5 or 10 minutes of running. It has been working ok for about 10 hours of continuous use, but I would like more air from it. The motor label states it has carbon vanes. I assume the old vanes are worn and the cause of the low air output. Does anyone know of a source for replacement vanes at a cheap price for a pump this old? Or another fix? Thanks, Grant |
Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump
Darald Bantel
On Sun, 2003-04-20 at 22:46, grantfair2001 wrote:
I have a used, surplus, Gast vacuum pump, never used in 25 years,Greetings By virtue of your membership in a 'tinkering' kind of group I would suggest that you open up said pump obtain carbon of a close size and make the new blades. Carbon is machinable just use very sharp tools and light cuts! Darald |
Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump
grantfair2001
Hi Darald-
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Machine carbon? To a high precision fit? As Peanuts said to Lucy, you have very high ambitious - for me <g>. I am sure it would be beyond my skills. I am reluctant to simply take the pump apart for fear of damaging it. It does work now, although not as well as I would like. Where are you in Canada? I'm in Toronto; if I can find the carbon maybe you could demonstrate in your shop? Has anyone on the list taken one of these pumps apart and know what steps are involved? Grant --- In VacuumX@..., Darald Bantel <dbantel@t...> wrote:
On Sun, 2003-04-20 at 22:46, grantfair2001 wrote:I have a used, surplus, Gast vacuum pump, never used in 25 years, Greetings |
Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump
Darald Bantel
On Mon, 2003-04-21 at 11:56, grantfair2001 wrote:
Hi Darald-Greetings If I had a shop or worked in one where I had access to equipment for after hours work I would say no problemo!! I worked in a shop where we made carbon bushings for pump shaft whatevers. These were done in a size from 1" OD and 3/4" ID to 3.5" OD and can't remember the ID on that one. We used HSS tools with a nice sharp edge with a generous radius on the tool tip (but not too large either just more than for steel more like that for 660 brass) and kept the cuts light. No pushing things to make them go fast. Also used a small (3/4") paintbrush on the tool to control the dust as this makes a mess on the machine. Clean the machine often and clean very very well after!! If you do not try you will never learn. Just use very sharp drill bits and keep the pressure down and the rpms at a good rate but not real fast. If you can machine to bearing fits and put in an O-ring groove inside a piece 1" in that is 0.100 wide and 0.100 deep (each side) you DO know enough to tackle it. Just do not get in a hurry and make sure you actually have carbon and not graphite that is in the pump! Darald |
Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump
Ken Hunter
Try Duniway Stockroom ( www.duniway.com/ ) for the vanes or re-build
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kit. My books are already packed up so I can't look it up for you. Ken Hunter --- In VacuumX@..., "grantfair2001" <grant.fair@s...>
wrote: Does anyone know of a source for replacement vanes at a cheap price for a pump this old? Or another fix?
|
Old Kinney Vacuum Coater
My project is the gradual restoration of an old, (~1960 I'm
guessing) Kinney vacuum coater, (Type SC-3). The system is based on a 2" diffusion pump, 12" dia X 12" tall bell jar, and a Sargent-Welch 1403 roughing pump. To date, my progress has been to disassemble and clean up the diffusion pump. It had the appearance and smell on the inside of being a crude oil cracking apparatus. I used oven cleaner, (not wanting to mess with hot lye solutions) followed by distilled water and then acetone to clean it up. I replaced all the seals with new Viton O rings. I cleaned up and changed the oil in the roughing pump which seems to be in very good condition. At this point I decided to see were I stood with the system. Without further disassembly and cleaning, (I was worried about the condition of the rubber diaphragms in the various diaphragm valves, the outside edges look cracked, but I didn't want to mess with them unless I had to), I started roughing down the system. I think it went surprisingly well for such and old piece of equipment. I was able to get the system down to about 10^-2 torr, which surprised me because as far as I can tell the 1403 roughing pump is a one stage pump and I wouldn't expect it to get much below 1 torr. The pressure was monitored using a Stokes McLeod gauge. One of the three installed thermocouple gauges seemed to be functioning. I suspect that the other two gauge tubes, (Type 531) are not working. The discharge gauge, which I'm assuming was installed in the bell jar base plate, because there was a vacant hole, is missing. My guess it was a cold cathode ion gauge. I have a Kinney type KDG gauge head a Varian 524-2 gauge head and a NRC type 507 ionization gauge sitting in a box of parts I got with the system, along with a CVC Autovac 3294A gauge controller and a NRC 724 Gauge controller. Which gauge head goes with which controller I am not at all certain. I also picked up a Bendix (CVC?) GP-310 Pirani gauge controller with no sensor head at the MIT flea marker Sunday just because it was sitting there for $10. The immediate questions I have concern the next step. I feel that I am in the pressure realm that I can consider turning on the diffusion pump. Initiayl I charged the diffusion pump with an unknown silicon oil that I removed from an old 4" CVC system that I have waiting for possible restoration. Then I got to thinking that this old Kinney system was probably designed for a hydrocarbon diffusion oil and the heater came into question. The heater is a Chromalox HSP 31, 115V, 100W disc heater. There is no controller or thermostat on the heater nor anyway to measure the heater temperature. What diffusion pump oil should I use? I might add that there seems to be no baffle between the diffusion pump and the bell jar, just a gate valve. Intrumentation. What sensor head goes with what controller? A cheap source of type 531 T/C gauge heads. The same for a Pirani type GP-003 sensor tube. Does anyone have any recollection of this Kinney system? This is a "back burner" type of project, going slow as I collect information and pieces. My interest in vacuum coating has to do with small acoustical sensors and sources. For example, I am currently working on a miniature electrostatic sound source which incorporates a slightly conductive very thin, (~.00006 inch) Mylar diaphragm and perforated thin metal stators. Currently I am making the diaphragms "conductive", (about 10K ohms over 1") by applying powdered graphite to them. They work, but this doesn't seem very elegant or controllable. If I get the vacuum coating system running, my next series of questions may be concerning how to conductively coat mylar without melting it, (radiating heat). The Kinney system is also set up with carbon coating capabilities. Also, because these electrostatic sources I am working on are to be used in a very high magnetic field, (MRI) I have a need to minimize metal in their construction, (eddy currents), so a metalized stator might have advantages. Envisioned future uses for vacuum coating might concern capacitance micro phones, again metalized diaphragms and stators, and plasma clean/etching sounds interesting because I am forever trying to adhesively bond polar polymers, (nylon, Delrin, polyethelene, Teflon, etc) Thanks for any guidance ExpTec DBA Experimental Technique |
Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump
grantfair2001
Hi Darald - thanks for the reply, it is helpful.
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For reasons unknown, the Gast pump started putting out lots of air recently. It has been running non-stop for several days so maybe something wore into shape, though the thing was old surplus when I bought it. Anyway - for now it is working just fine! Grant --- In VacuumX@..., Darald Bantel <dbantel@t...> wrote:
On Mon, 2003-04-21 at 11:56, grantfair2001 wrote:Hi Darald-Greetings |
Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump
grantfair2001
Thanks Ken -
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They did not have any Gast kits, are the names they use "generic"? And if those are cheap prices, what are the expensive ones like? <g> Anyway, my pump inexplicably started pumping more air recently, so for now I don't need to improve it. Good luck with your upcoming move. If I have trouble with the pump in the future I will be back to the list. Grant --- In VacuumX@..., "Ken Hunter" <atm_ken_hunter@y...> wrote:
Try Duniway Stockroom ( www.duniway.com/ ) for the vanes or re-build |
Re: Repair of old Gast vacuum pump
Darald Bantel
On Tue, 2003-04-22 at 21:16, grantfair2001 wrote:
Hi Darald - thanks for the reply, it is helpful.Greetings I am currently working on a vacuum truck and every 8 to 10 running hours I flush the pump with a 3:1 mixture of diesel and ATF oil. The ratio could be different in your application because I have problems with internal grease deposition that you should not have. Check with a Gast vacuum pump distributor as to recommended practice. This process may not apply to a high accuracy pump but is used regularly on vacuum trucks in this area. The flushing is to lubricate (and clean) the inside of the pump. Darald |
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