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new topic: extended x-axis way bars
开云体育Greetings- I need to extend the x-axis way bars on my alloy Unimat to gain length between the headstock and tailstock to be able to turn 2 piece pans/pencils. Getting the right size (10mm?) drill rod and cutting off 2 lengths present no difficulties. My problem is how to ?drill the countersunk mounting bolt holes at either end so that both holes are at the same “time”, say 12 o’clock for example. I worry that using a proper drill press with wooden v-blocks as opposed to precision metal ones aligned to a fence that the holes would not align properly and therefore wouldn’t fit the mounting holes on the basic Unimat frame. I’m sure some of you real machinist out there can give me the advice I need.Many thanks, Bill in NC |
开云体育Machine two square blocks that can clamp on the rods. Assemble blocks and rod on your best surface - a surface plate is ideal. That way, the holes will be aligned when drilled. Neil
On 3/6/2019 11:47 AM, William Macy
wmkmacy3@... [UNIMAT] wrote:
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First off the longitudinal way bars, pillars, what ever are 12mm ground and polished rod. You can get 36" lengths from any outfit that sells O1 precision ground and polished in 12mm. Not too expensive.?The simple solution is to buy the extended woodworking 12mm way bars already correctly drilled and maybe taped for the M6 mounting screws.?Or, design a fixture to drill the holes in extra long lengths of 12mm O1 round bar stock. I don't know what the length of the longer way bars was but I?am sure someone on?this forum can supply that info. A helpful accessory that one vendor sold is a support block made from a alloy bed cut off from the headstock end. Cary? |
开云体育I am late to this question, but I made extended way bars for both axes of my Unimat in order to mount stepper motors on each axis. You can see pictures (and drawings) in my album (and in the Files
section). I used a regular drill press to drill the holes, I drilled and taped the first hole and then I used a long bolt in the hole to properly judge the orientation of the round bar in the vise while drilling the second hole. It is easier done than described, human eye is a precise tool. Roman
On 08/03/2019 7:50 a.m., William Macy
wmkmacy3@... [UNIMAT] wrote:
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Having drilled the first hole, you could bolt the rods onto the Unimat base, which will hold the rod in the right position for drilling the second one. You could also turn it over and spot through the base to get the spacing right. You just need a little care to avoid enlarging the hole in the base. I would spot through with a centre drill, preferably one that matches the hole in the base. Keith ---In UNIMAT@..., <roman@...> wrote : I am late to this question, but I made extended way bars for both axes of my Unimat in order to mount stepper motors on each axis. You can see pictures (and drawings) in my album (and in the Files
section). I used a regular drill press to drill the holes, I drilled and taped the first hole and then I used a long bolt in the hole to properly judge the orientation of the round bar in the vise while drilling the second hole. It is easier done than described, human eye is a precise tool. Roman |
开云体育Thanks guys for the good and simple advice. Now to get rolling and get some 12 m drill rod.Cheers, Bill |
开云体育12 m may be a tad long, I think it will sag in the middle ;-) Roman On 13/03/2019 7:42 p.m., William Macy
wmkmacy3@... [UNIMAT] wrote:
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开云体育Roman: I think he meant 12 m Diameter! A very scaled up Unimat. Carl. On 3/14/2019 9:52 AM, Roman Gargulak
roman@... [UNIMAT] wrote:
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If you extend the way bars 3-4" (75-100mm) past the end mounting you have room to mount? a cnc stepper motor while maintaining the center distance.? I think someone was planning on making 2 piece pens make a mount for the mandrel that screws on directly to the spindle You may have to part a bit off of a few bushings so that you can buy a little space, Live center not sure if using the 2bearing live center is worth the difference in distance between centers.? All of this should buy? you the room to turn even El Grande and Cigar pens Ed Samsen |
Yes Virginia, “metric countersinks” do exist! ?Aside from their diameters being expressed millimeters, the specification calls for the included angle to be 90 degrees, not the US screw countersink standard 82 degrees. With little trouble I located a 90 degree countersink (3 flute, 3/8 in. body) for $11.10 at McMaster-Carr which arrived today along with the 12 mm round bars that ordered 2 days ago. It looks like I’m now ready to start making the extended way bars ( with mounting screw heads countersunk on top) that I need.
Thanks all for the useful advice along the way. Bill |