On Tue, Jan 10, 2023 at 04:30 AM, Jay Perez wrote:

Based on Julius' and other comments I modeled some of the other options discussed.

Thank you very much for your detailed CADs.? 8^D
Much obliged. ? 8^D

... not sure I'm correctly visualizing the clearances ...

My bad.
I should have detailed it properly.

Here's a quick & dirty sketch, approximately to scale.
No match for your CADs but I think it gets the idea across:

As you can see, there's really not much room for anything but oil and swarf.
Even so, brass has a way of constantly setting up residence in there.

Yesterday I attempted an idea similar to the one shown on your second drawing but using a small piece of silicone sheathing from some high temperature cable, just to see how it behaved.

The silicone cable was (as expected) too soft and quickly deteriorated, but I think we may be on to something.
I have to see where I can get small teflon/delrin balls.

With this flawed OEM design and with no room around the nut, I think that the only possible way for something to press against the feed screw threads is from above.

But it has to be separate from the screw that holds the nut in place, unless the solution is something with very tight tolerances.
ie: it would have to work with the screw in place and as tight as it should be, maybe a tiny piece of hard teflon in the right shape.

The screw is M4, rather small, but if an M6 flat head screw like this one ...



... with a concentric M2 grub screw running inside were used, there's may be a possibility.

The grub screw could have a 60° point, like this one but would have to be made from brass or hard teflon and just plain slot type, no allen head required.



You would first tighten the nut in place with the M6 screw and after the sloide is in place, thegib is properly adjusted and the feed screw/ways oiled, you would tighten the brass/teflon grub screw till it runs on top of the feed screw thread and the backlash is acceptable.?

Eventually the grub screw would wear down and have to be replaced.

The problem with this is that all those allen screws are impossible to drill/thread.
Don't ask me how I know.? 8^°

It is a rather complicated solution but there may be a way to do it.
Have to play a bit with fire, water and oil.

Thnak a lot for your input.

Best,

JHM

Hello Jay:

On Tue, Jan 10, 2023 at 04:30 AM, Jay Perez wrote:

Based on Julius' and other comments I modeled some of the other options discussed.

Thank you very much for your detailed CADs.? 8^D
Much obliged. ? 8^D

... not sure I'm correctly visualizing the clearances ...

My bad.
I should have detailed it properly.

Here's a quick & dirty sketch, approximately to scale.
No match for your CADs but I think it gets the idea across:

As you can see, there's really not much room for anything but oil and swarf.
Even so, brass has a way of constantly setting up residence in there.

Yesterday I attempted an idea similar to the one shown on your second drawing but using a small piece of silicone sheathing from some high temperature cable, just to see how it behaved.

The silicone cable was (as expected) too soft and quickly deteriorated, but I think we may be on to something.
I have to see where I can get small teflon/delrin balls.

With this flawed OEM design and with no room around the nut, I think that the only possible way for something to press against the feed screw threads is from above.

But it has to be separate from the screw that holds the nut in place, unless the solution is something with very tight tolerances.
ie: it would have to work with the screw in place and as tight as it should be, maybe a tiny piece of hard teflon in the right shape.

The screw is M4, rather small, but if an M6 flat head screw like this one ...



... with a concentric M2 grub screw running inside were used, there's may be a possibility.

The grub screw could have a 60° point, like this one but would have to be made from brass or hard teflon and just plain slot type, no allen head required.



You would first tighten the nut in place with the M6 screw and after the sloide is in place, thegib is properly adjusted and the feed screw/ways oiled, you would tighten the brass/teflon grub screw till it runs on top of the feed screw thread and the backlash is acceptable.?

Eventually the grub screw would wear down and have to be replaced.

The problem with this is that all those allen screws are impossible to drill/thread.
Don't ask me how I know.? 8^°

It is a rather complicated solution but there may be a way to do it.
Have to play a bit with fire, water and oil.

Thnak a lot for your input.

Best,

JHM

On Tue, Jan 10, 2023 at 11:26 AM, Carl wrote:

... slit the nut before tapping the M10x1 LH? ...

Maybe I am missing something, I am not versed in screw geometry or standards.

If I understand correctly, what would be happening is that the 7.0mm hole made to tap the M8x1.0 LH thread would get a lengthwise slit, say maybe a max of 0.3/0.4mm wide, would then be clamped so as to close that slit/gap and then threaded to M8x1.0 LH.

I think that the result would be a smaller albeit not precisely round (ie: slightly oval) hole to thread but as we are talking brass and not steel, this would not be a problem when making threading, provided due care was taken.

If for the sake of this exercise we take the slit+clamped hole to be just as round as the un-slit one, I think that what we would end up with would be an M8x1.0 LH thread made in a hole a wee bit smaller than usual practise advises, say M6.80 instead of M7.0.

When the clamp is released, the slit will then spring open and as a result the now threaded hole will go from the (estimated) 6.80mm to the nominal 7.00mm, taking the both the crest and root of the M8x1.0 LH thread further away from the lead screw's axis.

If I am correct, I think that the screw would have quite a bit of play.

Make sense?

Thanks a lot for your input.

Best,

JHM

On Tue, Jan 10, 2023 at 12:29 PM, Julius Henry Marx wrote:

Make sense?

Carl very graciously sent me an email with the answer to my question.

I was thinking of splitting across the threads, like in this image:

Then you would have two "nuts" that are pulling apart on the lead screw when the clamp is released.
@Carl: now I understand what you meant, thank you for that. 8^)

I would leave the nut long on the slit side soto have something to clamp, or put a second hole there for a clamping screw. Then cut the excess off after tapping.

I think this idea would certainly work if the nut had bit more heft to it instead of having barely ~ 0.90mm around the feed screw without counting the crest of the thread, which means that it is probably ~ 0.70/0.75mm.


Best,

JHM

On Tue, Jan 10, 2023 at 08:14 AM, Julius Henry Marx wrote:

... attempted an idea similar to the one shown on your second drawing ...

I tried again but this time with a short piece of hard plastic, very slippery but not teflon.
Unfortunately, I seems that the plastic plug idea won't work.

This because whatever material is used to press on to the thread of the feed screw has to be hard as the material the nut itself is made of in order to keep the slide from moving within the +/- limits of the backlash movement.

If not, it would be like if the threads of one side of the slit were not able to resist the force at play and slip.

One nut against another seems to be the solution, be it with two nuts or a split nut.

There has to be a way to use two nuts, one the OEM on and then a second one of the same size with some sort of spring forcing them apart.
eg: a stout leaf spring with a hole for the M8 feed screw to pass or one made from wire just thin enough that it does not bother.

It would work doing something like this:

Opinions?

Thanks in advance.

Best,

JHM