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Case / base for newly acquired PC/basic

 

Greetings everyone, I'm new to lathes and after a few months of yearning, I finally came across a PC/Basic in great condition.

I don't have much work space and thus need a semi mobile setup (I.e. Lathe will be stored away when not in use)

Are there any good strategies / ideas for building base for the PC basic model?

Some notes:
1. With the vertical attachment it's abt 15-20kgs
2. I'd like to build a couple of handles on the left and right side of the base for easy lifting?

Would plywood suffice? My main worry is lifting the entire base + machine by its handles (to be built on left / right side) would not be strong enough.

Thanks in advance!?
 

Use 3/4"/19mm plywood, and it should be quite strong enough. Make it just barely larger than the base area of the machine set up as you wish. Put runners of hardwood or perhaps metal under the base and bolt through them to fasten the handles to the runners and make the runners, base, and handles one unit. And start lifting weights if you're concerned about your own ability to lift it. You can start with cans of food, graduate to bags of cans, if you don't have access to a proper weight room or weights.

I had to lift my boxed Unimat DB200 the yesterday, and was surprised to find it felt rather heavy. There are a few things in the box that weren't there I when I got it last year, but they're mainly new? bearings and belts. The box minus those items was right at 25 pounds or about 11.3kg a year or so ago when I got it, so I'll be taking my own advice. The moving of furniture and boxes of stuff that I've been doing is apparently not adequate exercise to maintain my own strength.?

Bill in OKC
 

:/ Meh i would not use plywood but bolt it to a trolley or perhaps if you really want to lift it add yet more weight and use a steel frame but you don't want to add twist to the frame and then to the bed of your lathe so you have to be cautious on your approach. Even larger lathes can twist :/ So a steel plate perhaps with handles welded to that or perhaps bolted on might do the trick.

On Sunday, 19 March 2023 at 16:46:19 GMT, powster@... <powster@...> wrote:


Greetings everyone, I'm new to lathes and after a few months of yearning, I finally came across a PC/Basic in great condition.

I don't have much work space and thus need a semi mobile setup (I.e. Lathe will be stored away when not in use)

Are there any good strategies / ideas for building base for the PC basic model?

Some notes:
1. With the vertical attachment it's abt 15-20kgs
2. I'd like to build a couple of handles on the left and right side of the base for easy lifting?

Would plywood suffice? My main worry is lifting the entire base + machine by its handles (to be built on left / right side) would not be strong enough.

Thanks in advance!?

 

Mert Baker used a cast iron griddle for that purpose, on one of his DB or SL units. I'd imagine it should be in the photos section, but haven't seen it in quite some time. I tend to use Mert's feats as a benchmark for things that I should be able to do when I have as much experience as he had. Well heck. It's not there. Dave W did something a little more ambitious, here:?/g/Unimat/album?id=195694?

?A larger enough plate of 1/2"/13mm aluminum would work, but be be pretty pricey.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.



On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 12:03:02 PM CDT, clankennedy2004 via groups.io <clankennedy2004@...> wrote:


:/ Meh i would not use plywood but bolt it to a trolley or perhaps if you really want to lift it add yet more weight and use a steel frame but you don't want to add twist to the frame and then to the bed of your lathe so you have to be cautious on your approach. Even larger lathes can twist :/ So a steel plate perhaps with handles welded to that or perhaps bolted on might do the trick.

On Sunday, 19 March 2023 at 16:46:19 GMT, powster@... <powster@...> wrote:


Greetings everyone, I'm new to lathes and after a few months of yearning, I finally came across a PC/Basic in great condition.

I don't have much work space and thus need a semi mobile setup (I.e. Lathe will be stored away when not in use)

Are there any good strategies / ideas for building base for the PC basic model?

Some notes:
1. With the vertical attachment it's abt 15-20kgs
2. I'd like to build a couple of handles on the left and right side of the base for easy lifting?

Would plywood suffice? My main worry is lifting the entire base + machine by its handles (to be built on left / right side) would not be strong enough.

Thanks in advance!?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hello Powster:

I've built several lathe bases and the heavier the better. My first base was a whole cabinet, four drawers for parts, 3/4" steel slap with tapped holes and a cover, all made from 3/4" plywood.

I've since returned the cover to stock, but the rest is fine.

The second base is more like a sewing machine cabinet. The machine can fold down inside when not in use. 3/4" steel again.

The last is just a nice piece of plywood and doesn't have a milling column. Sorry, no photo.

While the steel bases are nice since you can use magnetic holders on it, a marble counter top cut out would be nice and flat.

The mass really make the machine run nicer.

Good luck. Carl.

On 3/18/2023 9:06 PM, powster@... wrote:

Greetings everyone, I'm new to lathes and after a few months of yearning, I finally came across a PC/Basic in great condition.

I don't have much work space and thus need a semi mobile setup (I.e. Lathe will be stored away when not in use)

Are there any good strategies / ideas for building base for the PC basic model?

Some notes:
1. With the vertical attachment it's abt 15-20kgs
2. I'd like to build a couple of handles on the left and right side of the base for easy lifting?

Would plywood suffice? My main worry is lifting the entire base + machine by its handles (to be built on left / right side) would not be strong enough.

Thanks in advance!?

 

Anybody remember the Sears Craftsman "Rotary Tool Bench"?? I always thought it was sort of bad idea and likely annoying to use.? But I do wonder if, for a small machine, a scheme where it stayed mounted, but swung out of sight, might have merit.? Perhaps even something where it simply lowered, and a removable flat piece would then fill the hole to make a flat work surface.? Or was on something hinged so that it swung down and to the rear or to the side and just hung there and a piece then used to fill the hole.

Here are a couple photos of the Sears contraption.? The side pieces slide out of the way to allow more clearance when swinging it around with machines mounted.

Inline image

Inline image



Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 10:27:10 AM PDT, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:


Hello Powster:

I've built several lathe bases and the heavier the better. My first base was a whole cabinet, four drawers for parts, 3/4" steel slap with tapped holes and a cover, all made from 3/4" plywood.

I've since returned the cover to stock, but the rest is fine.

The second base is more like a sewing machine cabinet. The machine can fold down inside when not in use. 3/4" steel again.

The last is just a nice piece of plywood and doesn't have a milling column. Sorry, no photo.

While the steel bases are nice since you can use magnetic holders on it, a marble counter top cut out would be nice and flat.

The mass really make the machine run nicer.

Good luck. Carl.

On 3/18/2023 9:06 PM, powster@... wrote:

Greetings everyone, I'm new to lathes and after a few months of yearning, I finally came across a PC/Basic in great condition.

I don't have much work space and thus need a semi mobile setup (I.e. Lathe will be stored away when not in use)

Are there any good strategies / ideas for building base for the PC basic model?

Some notes:
1. With the vertical attachment it's abt 15-20kgs
2. I'd like to build a couple of handles on the left and right side of the base for easy lifting?

Would plywood suffice? My main worry is lifting the entire base + machine by its handles (to be built on left / right side) would not be strong enough.

Thanks in advance!?

 

This as I understand it, this is a Unimat PC, not a regular Unimat DB/SL.? The PC has bed bars of a larger diameter, and should be more rigid and require less support.? Has anyone here used PC Unimats?
The request was for something that could be picked up and stored away.? It is interesting to look at our favorite work benches and cabinets, but they do not address the issue.? For anyone wanting something light, I suggest doing a search for Nordic Ware aluminum griddles.? Some are smooth on one side and ribbed on the other.? They only weigh a few pounds, and you can inspect them at your local Walmart.? Made in USA, not China.
 

I did something like this a while back, when I built a bench specifically for making miniature parts for an F1 team. I was aiming to use my SL & U3 lathes, plus the little Proxxon mill. I made a cubby hole under the bench with wooden rails both sides to act as drawer runners. I made some wooden bases to fit on these runners, and bolted my machines to them. I added steel equipment handles which bolted right through the bases, so were unlikely to come unstuck. I made the bases of ?" MDF, because I had lots of it lying around, left over from constructing kitchen cabinets (or something like that). I also used them to build the bench, with a bit of kitchen worktop - on top. I could then put away all three machines under the bench leaving the top clear for hand work. I did find I had just enough room to get two machines running side by side.

Lessons to learn. The boards were based on the size of the SL, which has now gone off to Australia. This was big enough for the Proxxon mill, but for the U3 it was a tight fit. As for my PC/Basic, that came later and is definitely not going to fit. One day, when I am feeling strong I will modify the bench and make bigger machine bases. I will also add small racks, maybe just blocks with useful sized holes in them, to keep things like tommy bars, hex & chuck keys close by. For machines with 24 V motors and speed controls I might put the controllers on the boards so they are convenient to reach, but leave the 24 V power supply elsewhere so there is no high voltage on the board.

One day when I can dig my way back into the garage I will take some pictures so folks can see what I mean, and decide whether it is the sort of thing they need.

As for the base, use good quality wood. I would look for good quality ply, with a nice smooth surface. Round off the corners, sand the edges and maybe seal with. Consider adding a lip round the edge paint or varnish so small parts will not fall off. If the boards slide around on your bench get some large rubber feet or add some pads of sheet rubber to provide grip. For suitable handles go to a local hardware shop and look at some of the bigger door and drawer handles. Get something chunky, but remember, not so big it blocks access to the lathe.

Think ahead, and plan it out on a big sheet of paper on the bench. Then you will find the things you forgot about are not so important.
 

How about an extruded aluminium base? I built this for my Sherline (I also did the same for my Cowells). Extremely strong yet still relatively lightweight.



YouTube Links:
Part 1:???
Part 2:???
Part 3:??
Part 4:?
 

What does your machine weigh in pounds?
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Gang:

Be sure to seal the surfaces, cutting oil will really sink in plywood or MDF. Steel needs oil not to rust, Formica is my second choice. I like to add a pencil groove to the front edge, I use a table saw on a diagonal to cut the radius.

I know weight makes the tool heavier to lift, but it really helps with the noise and vibration.

Carl.

On 3/20/2023 12:25 AM, Keith S. Angus wrote:

I did something like this a while back, when I built a bench specifically for making miniature parts for an F1 team. I was aiming to use my SL & U3 lathes, plus the little Proxxon mill. I made a cubby hole under the bench with wooden rails both sides to act as drawer runners. I made some wooden bases to fit on these runners, and bolted my machines to them. I added steel equipment handles which bolted right through the bases, so were unlikely to come unstuck. I made the bases of ?" MDF, because I had lots of it lying around, left over from constructing kitchen cabinets (or something like that). I also used them to build the bench, with a bit of kitchen worktop - on top. I could then put away all three machines under the bench leaving the top clear for hand work. I did find I had just enough room to get two machines running side by side.

Lessons to learn. The boards were based on the size of the SL, which has now gone off to Australia. This was big enough for the Proxxon mill, but for the U3 it was a tight fit. As for my PC/Basic, that came later and is definitely not going to fit. One day, when I am feeling strong I will modify the bench and make bigger machine bases. I will also add small racks, maybe just blocks with useful sized holes in them, to keep things like tommy bars, hex & chuck keys close by. For machines with 24 V motors and speed controls I might put the controllers on the boards so they are convenient to reach, but leave the 24 V power supply elsewhere so there is no high voltage on the board.

One day when I can dig my way back into the garage I will take some pictures so folks can see what I mean, and decide whether it is the sort of thing they need.

As for the base, use good quality wood. I would look for good quality ply, with a nice smooth surface. Round off the corners, sand the edges and maybe seal with. Consider adding a lip round the edge paint or varnish so small parts will not fall off. If the boards slide around on your bench get some large rubber feet or add some pads of sheet rubber to provide grip. For suitable handles go to a local hardware shop and look at some of the bigger door and drawer handles. Get something chunky, but remember, not so big it blocks access to the lathe.

Think ahead, and plan it out on a big sheet of paper on the bench. Then you will find the things you forgot about are not so important.

 

Approximately 40 pounds (both lathe + vertical milling attachment)!
 

Hi All,

?

Such a wealth of information in all your replies.

Much appreciation to all :)

I have much to think about when I sit down to design it this week.

I'm considering a combination of wood (with sealed surfaces, or perhaps a steel sheet on top), and aluminum extusion for the sides.

?

JP
 

A sheet steel top is a good idea, making it easier to use a magnetic base indicator holder even if you have an alloy machine. I don't know enough about the PC/Basic machines. I've only laid eyes on 6 of the Unimats, including the two I own. And I wasn't able to touch the other four.

I'd thought? one of mine was a DB, as it says it's a model DB-200, but the rest of the label on the headstock says it's a Unimat-SL, and both are alloy beds, headstocks, tailstocks, etc.? I'm so confused!?
?
Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.




On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 10:55:22 AM CDT, jpow <powster@...> wrote:


Hi All,

?

Such a wealth of information in all your replies.

Much appreciation to all :)

I have much to think about when I sit down to design it this week.

I'm considering a combination of wood (with sealed surfaces, or perhaps a steel sheet on top), and aluminum extusion for the sides.

?

JP
 

I adapted an old carpenter¡¯s toolbox to hold my lathe. The major modification was to the front folding section - this was beefed up with a section of counter-top and I added a pair of feet pinned with hinge sections. Pulling the hinge pins allows the lathe to fold up into the box. The lathe is held in place by knock-down furniture screws - the shanks just fit into the lathe mounting holes and act as keepers. ? ? ??Pics here:?

DW
 

Wow! that turned out really good. I like the way it folds out. Lots of room for tool and accessory storage also.
Thanks for sharing the photos of your setup.

On Fri, Mar 24, 2023 at 7:51?PM Dave W <fahrwud@...> wrote:

I adapted an old carpenter¡¯s toolbox to hold my lathe. The major modification was to the front folding section - this was beefed up with a section of counter-top and I added a pair of feet pinned with hinge sections. Pulling the hinge pins allows the lathe to fold up into the box. The lathe is held in place by knock-down furniture screws - the shanks just fit into the lathe mounting holes and act as keepers. ? ? ??Pics here:?

DW
 

Thank you! There is a narrow tool rack that runs along the rear at the same level as the lathe, plus a pegboard section. The old top tray pops into the open lid and has a bunch of old cigar tins mounted for bit storage.?
DW
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