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Am I crazy or is it impossible to find sl1000 collet set up. Factory or aftermarket has eluded me. Does anyone know of a readily available m12x1 collet chuck?
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UNIMAT used to offer a complete watchmakers collet sleeve for the SL to replace the standard type (which takes chucks). It is a lovely piece of equipment and is designed for 8mm collets. Leslie
Am I crazy or is it impossible to find sl1000 collet set up. Factory or aftermarket has eluded me. Does anyone know of a readily available m12x1 collet chuck?
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I have a chuck and set of collets for a SL machine?  ?
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On 12 Aug 2022, at 17:07, Leslie Bevis-Smith <leslie.bevis.smith@...> wrote:
? UNIMAT used to offer a complete watchmakers collet sleeve for the SL to replace the standard type (which takes chucks). It is a lovely piece of equipment and is designed for 8mm collets. Leslie Am I crazy or is it impossible to find sl1000 collet set up. Factory or aftermarket has eluded me. Does anyone know of a readily available m12x1 collet chuck?
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Yes M12x1.0 collet chucks and which take ER 16 collets are available. They’re made in China, naturally. You can find them on EBay. You will need to open up the spindle bore to rem,ove thje male threads for a distance of 10mm or so. This is to allow the chuck to bottom fully on the spindle. You’ll also probaby want to drill a hole throught chuck near the spindle end for a tommy bar to tighten or loosen the chuck body. I found the chuck body of mine to be hardened so I got the desired size (3mm?) carbide drill from Amazon. It worked just fine. I also happened to have short carbide boring bit to enlarge the chuck bore.
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Am I crazy or is it impossible to find sl1000 collet set up. Factory or aftermarket has eluded me. Does anyone know of a readily available m12x1 collet chuck?
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On 12 Aug 2022, at 19:09, William Macy via groups.io <wkmacy@...> wrote:
? Yes M12x1.0 collet chucks and which take ER 16 collets are available. They’re made in China, naturally. You can find them on EBay. You will need to open up the spindle bore to rem,ove thje male threads for a distance of 10mm or so. This is to allow the chuck to bottom fully on the spindle. You’ll also probaby want to drill a hole throught chuck near the spindle end for a tommy bar to tighten or loosen the chuck body. I found the chuck body of mine to be hardened so I got the desired size (3mm?) carbide drill from Amazon. It worked just fine. I also happened to have short carbide boring bit to enlarge the chuck bore.
Best wishes, Bill
Am I crazy or is it impossible to find sl1000 collet set up. Factory or aftermarket has eluded me. Does anyone know of a readily available m12x1 collet chuck?
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RC Machines used to sell them
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: William Macy via groups.io <wkmacy@...>
To: [email protected]; alderj601@...
Sent: Fri, Aug 12, 2022 2:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Collet chucks
Yes M12x1.0 collet chucks and which take ER 16 collets are available. They’re made in China, naturally. You can find them on EBay. You will need to open up the spindle bore to rem,ove thje male threads for a distance of 10mm or so. This is to allow the chuck to bottom fully on the spindle. You’ll also probaby want to drill a hole throught chuck near the spindle end for a tommy bar to tighten or loosen the chuck body. I found the chuck body of mine to be hardened so I got the desired size (3mm?) carbide drill from Amazon. It worked just fine. I also happened to have short carbide boring bit to enlarge the chuck bore.
Best wishes, Bill
Am I crazy or is it impossible to find sl1000 collet set up. Factory or aftermarket has eluded me. Does anyone know of a readily available m12x1 collet chuck?
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Making your own collet chuck for the SL is actually a very doable project for the SL. If you decide to make a collet chuck, I would recommend going with the ER series because they are self releasing and the collet nut is readily available. I have chosen the ER-20 size for mine as I had a set of high precision US made collets for use in my Quorn cutter grinder.
Dick
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On Fri, Aug 12, 2022, 6:07 PM old_toolmaker via <old_toolmaker= [email protected]> wrote: Making your own collet chuck for the SL is actually a very doable project for the SL. If you decide to make a collet chuck, I would recommend going with the ER series because they are self releasing and the collet nut is readily available. I have chosen the ER-20 size for mine as I had a set of high precision US made collets for use in my Quorn cutter grinder.
Dick
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This belonged to my late father along with a SL machine. I am prepared to sell the chuck and will be selling the machine along with loads of other bits when I get round to sorting it all out Thanks
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On 12 Aug 2022, at 17:35, Nigel Pearson <nigelpearson@...> wrote:
? I have a chuck and set of collets for a SL machine?  ? On 12 Aug 2022, at 17:07, Leslie Bevis-Smith <leslie.bevis.smith@...> wrote:
? UNIMAT used to offer a complete watchmakers collet sleeve for the SL to replace the standard type (which takes chucks). It is a lovely piece of equipment and is designed for 8mm collets. Leslie Am I crazy or is it impossible to find sl1000 collet set up. Factory or aftermarket has eluded me. Does anyone know of a readily available m12x1 collet chuck?
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I made an ER25 collet chuck for my SL. It's too large, really, but I already had the collet set in ER25 for my Mini-Mill. I used a ready-made ER25 collet holder on a 100mm shank that I cut down and threaded for the SL spindle. Made from bar stock on the SL would be better, but I was cheating.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
On Friday, August 12, 2022 at 08:07:25 PM CDT, OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
Making your own collet chuck for the SL is actually a very doable project for the SL. If you decide to make a collet chuck, I would recommend going with the ER series because they are self releasing and the collet nut is readily available. I have chosen the ER-20 size for mine as I had a set of high precision US made collets for use in my Quorn cutter grinder.
Dick
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I bought one from an outfit in the UK - it went back to them for attention as it didn't tighten properly onto the spindle nose - despite that I never been very happy with it.
As with the 3 jaw chuck,? you really need to turn a "backplate" or "register" of some sort to fit the collet chuck to,? to get an acceptable level of concentricity or run out.
I have some bits to make my own,? just as soon as I can find my "round tuit"
Best wishes
Richard
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Hi
Gang:
I have
a ER32 chuck for my Unimat, and I think it is fine:
Same
diameter as the chucks, does stick out a bit farther.
Carl.
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I would definitely be?interested. Keep my email handy if you decide?to sell.
On Sat, Aug 13, 2022, 1:39 AM Nigel Pearson via <nigelpearson= [email protected]> wrote: This belonged to my late father along with a SL machine. I am prepared to sell the chuck and will be selling the machine along with loads of other bits when I get round to sorting it all out Thanks Nigel ? ?I have a chuck and set of collets for a SL machine? ? ? UNIMAT used to offer a complete watchmakers collet sleeve for the SL to replace the standard type (which takes chucks). It is a lovely piece of equipment and is designed for 8mm collets. Leslie Am I crazy or is it impossible to find sl1000 collet set up. Factory or aftermarket has eluded me. Does anyone know of a readily available m12x1 collet chuck?
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GGtools in Germany often have some, but there site is closed for maintenance at the moment. There are a lot of near misses out there, but GGtools do good stuff.
If you try to make your own the two tricky parts are the taper and the thread for the clamping nut. The very tricky part is the nut, but you can find them cheap on Ebay. I am considering setting up suitable mandrels to make some on my brother's bigger lathe, at first to true up some of the duds I have. The starting point would be a couple of Morse taper mandrels machined, one to reproduce the Unimat spindle nose, and the other with the correct taper to mount existing collets in reverse and true up the backs. Initially this was to be for my SL, but I no longer have that and I'm thinking of the U3.
I would look at making bodies of hard brass, since it is easy to machine and good enough for light use. If I had success with that I would try silver steel (drill rod) which can be hardened and tempered at home. I was thinking of trying the smaller version, as it uses an M19 × 1 thread, which will be easier to cut than the more usual M22 × 1.5. I have found taps and dies for both sizes, but have not bought any yet - it is a possible future project. It's not urgent for me as I have an old U3 collet holder for ER16, and I bought one for ER25 when they were readily available (but only for the U3). I do still have an SL headstock, so I might want one for that, or I might make an ER16 spindle for it.
When I had the SL I used the original E16 holder with the nut from the U3 - that made it work with the ER16 collets. I also used the GGtools ER11 ram for the tailstock, and now have the one for the U3. They do make many jobs much simpler - I would rarely use a three jaw chuck these days.
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Thanks, I'll check them out.?
GGtools in Germany often have some, but there site is closed for maintenance at the moment. There are a lot of near misses out there, but GGtools do good stuff.
If you try to make your own the two tricky parts are the taper and the thread for the clamping nut. The very tricky part is the nut, but you can find them cheap on Ebay. I am considering setting up suitable mandrels to make some on my brother's bigger lathe, at first to true up some of the duds I have. The starting point would be a couple of Morse taper mandrels machined, one to reproduce the Unimat spindle nose, and the other with the correct taper to mount existing collets in reverse and true up the backs. Initially this was to be for my SL, but I no longer have that and I'm thinking of the U3.
I would look at making bodies of hard brass, since it is easy to machine and good enough for light use. If I had success with that I would try silver steel (drill rod) which can be hardened and tempered at home. I was thinking of trying the smaller version, as it uses an M19 × 1 thread, which will be easier to cut than the more usual M22 × 1.5. I have found taps and dies for both sizes, but have not bought any yet - it is a possible future project. It's not urgent for me as I have an old U3 collet holder for ER16, and I bought one for ER25 when they were readily available (but only for the U3). I do still have an SL headstock, so I might want one for that, or I might make an ER16 spindle for it.
When I had the SL I used the original E16 holder with the nut from the U3 - that made it work with the ER16 collets. I also used the GGtools ER11 ram for the tailstock, and now have the one for the U3. They do make many jobs much simpler - I would rarely use a three jaw chuck these days.
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 Left to right - left) purchased chuck with M12x1? thread to fit direct on the spindle nose.? Centre) collet chuck with 16mm plain bore.? Right) collet chuck with 12mm shaft - intended to make up a sensitive tail stock collet holder - certainly the later 2 originate from China via eBay. Cheers Richard
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Bonus! It contains a method of threading on the Unimat without buying the (rather expensive) threading attachment and guides! Will work for any thread, too! Just not for every object. Darn! But better than nothing!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
On Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 04:30:24 PM CDT, g steinback via groups.io <gsteinba52@...> wrote:
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I built a collet chuck for my SL to allow me to use my TAIG collets on my SL. The TAIG headstock uses a 3/4-16 threads so I purchased a grade 3 3/4 bolt and cut 12-1 threads to thread it onto the spindle, then cut the relief for the collets. Used the standard TAIG collet nut to close. Runout is excellent, I couldn’t get it to register on my dial indicator.
I have minimal machining skill, if I can do it anybody can. Not sure what thread the er16 collet nut uses, but I would start there.
Pat
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On Sat, Aug 13, 2022 at 10:30 PM, g steinback wrote:
Many years ago Doug Collinge produced a nice tutorial on machining a collet holder -
/g/Unimat/files/ER-16%20Collets/Unimat%20ER-16%20Collet%20Holder.pdf
All very well, but he makes the recess in the back 13 mm diameter, thus losing a major location. I always aim for 11.99/12.00 mm, achieved with a slightly worn machine reamer and verified with a bit of 12.0 mm (actually 11.99 mm) silver steel (drill rod) and aluminium foil. I made various holders from brass, and the first time they were screwed on they were stiff, and left a witness mark of brass on the 12.00 spindle nose. This was before final machining of the holders or whatever I was making. I have yet to set up for the equivalent for the U3 - so far I have not made any special tooling for it.
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OldToolmaker
Bill in OKC too
Carl
