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Unimat 3

 

Just had this delivered:
The owner fell ill quite a while ago and can no longer use it so his son moved it on.
Now it's my turn to clean it up and get it working again, it is in a sad state but if all goes well I will replace one of my SL's with this one.
Not many parts came with this so will be looking to add to it at some stage.
?
Phill
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? ?
 

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Hello,

?

Doesn’t look that bad at all ? I’m guessing you’ll enjoy using the U3. One thing you might consider straight away is getting is a M14 female to M13 male adapter... Allowing you to use some of your SL accessories fornow (and even beyond).

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Friendly regards,

Alan

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?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of phill005 via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2024 4:35 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Unimat] Unimat 3

?

Just had this delivered:

The owner fell ill quite a while ago and can no longer use it so his son moved it on.

Now it's my turn to clean it up and get it working again, it is in a sad state but if all goes well I will replace one of my SL's with this one.

Not many parts came with this so will be looking to add to it at some stage.

?

Phill

?

? ?
 

its in way better condition than mine- which I have owned from new, just needs a good clean


------ Original Message ------
From "phill005 via groups.io" <phill05@...>
Date 05/09/2024 15:34:36
Subject [Unimat] Unimat 3

Just had this delivered:
The owner fell ill quite a while ago and can no longer use it so his son moved it on.
Now it's my turn to clean it up and get it working again, it is in a sad state but if all goes well I will replace one of my SL's with this one.
Not many parts came with this so will be looking to add to it at some stage.
?
Phill
?
? ?
 

Just make sure the adapter is female M14 to male M12, not M13 - sorry about that, Alan

Verzonden vanuit
?

Van: [email protected] <[email protected]> namens Peter ashby via groups.io <aescinga.pgen@...>
Verzonden: donderdag, september 5, 2024 6:23 PM
Aan: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Onderwerp: Re: [Unimat] Unimat 3
?
its in way better condition than mine- which I have owned from new, just needs a good clean


------ Original Message ------
From "phill005 via groups.io" <phill05@...>
Date 05/09/2024 15:34:36
Subject [Unimat] Unimat 3

Just had this delivered:
The owner fell ill quite a while ago and can no longer use it so his son moved it on.
Now it's my turn to clean it up and get it working again, it is in a sad state but if all goes well I will replace one of my SL's with this one.
Not many parts came with this so will be looking to add to it at some stage.
?
Phill
?
? ?
 

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Absolutely! female M14 to male M12 (not M13). Sorry for the typo.


On 5 Sep 2024, at 18:51, Herman de Leeuw via groups.io <herman.deleeuw@...> wrote:

?
Just make sure the adapter is female M14 to male M12, not M13 - sorry about that, Alan

Verzonden vanuit
?
Van: [email protected] <[email protected]> namens Peter ashby via groups.io <aescinga.pgen@...>
Verzonden: donderdag, september 5, 2024 6:23 PM
Aan: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Onderwerp: Re: [Unimat] Unimat 3
?
its in way better condition than mine- which I have owned from new, just needs a good clean


------ Original Message ------
From "phill005 via groups.io" <phill05@...>
Date 05/09/2024 15:34:36
Subject [Unimat] Unimat 3

Just had this delivered:
The owner fell ill quite a while ago and can no longer use it so his son moved it on.
Now it's my turn to clean it up and get it working again, it is in a sad state but if all goes well I will replace one of my SL's with this one.
Not many parts came with this so will be looking to add to it at some stage.
?
Phill
?
? ?
<U_3.jpg>
 

Doesn't look too bad. Light rusting on the bed can be cleaned off with a pot scourer - Scotchbrite or similar. That would do for most of the other rusty bits - then polish them up with a good wax polish. The painted parts will clean up with a damp cloth. As for extras, I would get collet holders for the headstock and tailstock, and a plain toolpost to use in place of the compound slide. Only fit the compound slide if you need it - it reduces rigidity.
?
I can suggest these things with full confidence as it's what I use on mine. The collets make accuracy so much easier - although the three jaw chuck on mine has a runout less than 0.001". Collets also give you more working space over the bed. A live centre for the tailstock might be useful, although I haven't used mine yet. It all depends on what you hope to use it for.
?
At some point I will be fitting a 24 V DC motor, as discussed many times here. I have the motor and I think it is an easy swap, but I might make up some new pulleys at the same time. I will use a speed controller as well, but I found on my SL I still used the pulleys most of the time for speed changing.
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Does your photo show all that you have, or were there some more bits and pieces with it?
?
Better than the SL for turning - more rigid - but not as versatile. Although I use my U3 these days, sometimes I really need my old SL - but it's in Australia now which is not very convenient.
 

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In my case, I’ve found the U3’s original motor well adapted for the lathe… no on/off duty cycles such as with my SL. However, I did find it useful to adapt a second motor to the U3 milling column. In my case, I already had a Chinese sewing machine motor, essentially an oversize scooter motor, on hand. The extra power it provides has been welcome.

Friendly regards,
Alan

On 6 Sep 2024, at 02:37, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:

?
Doesn't look too bad. Light rusting on the bed can be cleaned off with a pot scourer - Scotchbrite or similar. That would do for most of the other rusty bits - then polish them up with a good wax polish. The painted parts will clean up with a damp cloth. As for extras, I would get collet holders for the headstock and tailstock, and a plain toolpost to use in place of the compound slide. Only fit the compound slide if you need it - it reduces rigidity.
?
I can suggest these things with full confidence as it's what I use on mine. The collets make accuracy so much easier - although the three jaw chuck on mine has a runout less than 0.001". Collets also give you more working space over the bed. A live centre for the tailstock might be useful, although I haven't used mine yet. It all depends on what you hope to use it for.
?
At some point I will be fitting a 24 V DC motor, as discussed many times here. I have the motor and I think it is an easy swap, but I might make up some new pulleys at the same time. I will use a speed controller as well, but I found on my SL I still used the pulleys most of the time for speed changing.
?
Does your photo show all that you have, or were there some more bits and pieces with it?
?
Better than the SL for turning - more rigid - but not as versatile. Although I use my U3 these days, sometimes I really need my old SL - but it's in Australia now which is not very convenient.
 

Hello all,
My comment "a sad state" was when I first saw it unboxed there is rust on the ways and chuck that I can contend with but then i found under the motor body thick rust, and the power feed pulley had heavy rust, when I took off the headstock the shaft inside heavy rust on it, I just don't understand how under the covers is so rusty maybe it sat in a very wet workshop, anyway it was put into soak and today I will start cleaning it. (I did take some images of it as I went through stripping it down at some stage I'll put them in a folder)
I see it say's on the motor plate two speed but intermittent use so I think I will change the motor I have a 24V motor and controller and a 180V motor and controller so have choices.
I see what you say about take off the top slide the toolpost is a little sloppy I have a multifix that I can use on it.
It came with the 3 jaw. the drill chuck, a revolving centre and a fixed centre that is all, I will be looking for collet system for it, at this time I don't need the drilling/milling setup.
I have two SL's one with 3/4 jaw chucks with power feeds to both axis and one setup to use as milling / drilling I also have a SL base with extended bed ways that I am building up for wood turning, so plenty to keep me out of trouble.
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Kind regards
Phill
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Not so sad looking? should clean up easily.? Get the following
1. Delrin washers to go behind handwheels makes turning them much smoother
2. 14x1mm Female to 12x1mm Male adapter to use your Unimat SL chucks on U3
3.? Collet holder and collets ER-16
?
Clean up power feed get rid of rust, penetrating oil to free up input shaft Flush out old grease in feed repack gears with Lithium grease or Superlube Grease oil bushings
Clean rust off of bed ways as others mentioned scotchbrite pad and oil? Leave a film of oil behindef
Oil leadscrew bushings at both ends clean and lightly oil leadscrew? make sure a bit of oil is on the wiper felts under the carriage
Motor? clean out switvh housing (Cause for intermittant motor) inspect and replace brushes if needed? Oil motor bushings? both ends (sewing machine oil? 3 in 2 for electric motors etc
?
Ed Samsen
 

Well the clean-up went well stripped it all down got the dremel with a fine brush to clean up the rust area's and it worked well put a light coating of grease over all moving parts for now, but when came time to power up I got a flash/bang on 1st inspection the two stage switch only worked in? #2 so opened the motor and there was some black liquid at the brush end how that got in I have no idea and if I was looking to change the bearings that seems hard work they are only brass bushes so good time to bin it and fit a 24V or the 180V me thinks.
I had concern's when I first saw the rust under the motor reason for saying "Sad state" that turned out to be true.
?
Phill
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On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 02:19 PM, phill005 wrote:
the two stage switch only worked in? #2
For the lower speed power is fed via a diode, so giving the motor half the voltage, although that doesn't mean it runs at half the speed. Often the diode blows and low speed no longer works. It's not hard to fit a suitable diode, but that doesn't explain nasty goo around the brushed. Something else going on there. My experience with the SL motors was that the brushes end gets hotter than the rest of the motor. Maybe the whole thing has overheated.
 

Keith,
I got rid of the two DB200 motors I had. Too noisy for me. Replaced them with DC scooter moters instead. Much more quiet and variable speed and reversing as well.?

--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
Andrei
 

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Can you share some pictures? I'd like to see that implementation.?

Get

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2024 8:40:21 AM
To: Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Unimat 3
?
Keith,
I got rid of the two DB200 motors I had. Too noisy for me. Replaced them with DC scooter moters instead. Much more quiet and variable speed and reversing as well.?

--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

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