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Ok, I'm going to machine a plug for our paint pot that is being converted to a pressure pot for wood / resin wood turnings for dear husband.? (He has been watching neighbor (in Canada) Jim Sprague on YouTube and has discovered a new calling for his lathe.)??
The diameter of the 1018 steel is 1-7/8" and I need to bring it to something close to 1.5" diameter and will get it welded to the lid.??
It doesn't have to be pretty, but would be nice if it is pretty, so I'm open to lots of suggestions for tool bits to use.? I have standard tool bits but don't usually use them, as I machine brass & wood on the lathe, and I grind my own 1/8" (generally Interstate) tool bits.? ? The reason I was reading the unimat machining booklet was to figure out if I could mount this on my lathe - the instructions to reverse the jaws and in xx order... or if I needed to get the EMCO bigger machine off the shelf, which I don't think I can move myself without a cart on wheels... well, I can likely move it, but not likely want to carry it, as I'm fond of my feet.? Dear Son is on his way over right now.? Off to the workshop... for fun time!
Tamra
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You didn't specify the length of the part, but it sounds short and stubby so you should be able to hold in reversed jaws.
Note:? Jaws must be reinstalled in the correct order in a scroll type chuck.? So, keep track of what jaw came from which slot.
I would use a standard HSS tool bit.? Some try to use carbide bits, especially inserts in holders.? However, carbide bits tend to work better when more horsepower and rigidity is available.? And I always try to have bits very sharp.? Sharper than probably most do.? I keep a diamond hand hone at the ready to touch up the cutting edge after grinding it or touching it up while the bit is mounted in the tool post if it dulls a bit.
You want a slowish speed and lightish cuts.? If you push things a little too much, the behavior of the machine will usually tell you.
If you want a little extra work holding security (although you may not need it) you can center drill the workpiece and then run a ball bearing center (a.k.a.live center or rolling center depending on your location and/or lexicon politics) up against the part.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, June 26, 2024 at 04:14:33 PM PDT, Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...> wrote:
Ok, I'm going to machine a plug for our paint pot that is being converted to a pressure pot for wood / resin wood turnings for dear husband.? (He has been watching neighbor (in Canada) Jim Sprague on YouTube and has discovered a new calling for his lathe.)??
The diameter of the 1018 steel is 1-7/8" and I need to bring it to something close to 1.5" diameter and will get it welded to the lid.??
It doesn't have to be pretty, but would be nice if it is pretty, so I'm open to lots of suggestions for tool bits to use.? I have standard tool bits but don't usually use them, as I machine brass & wood on the lathe, and I grind my own 1/8" (generally Interstate) tool bits.? ? The reason I was reading the unimat machining booklet was to figure out if I could mount this on my lathe - the instructions to reverse the jaws and in xx order... or if I needed to get the EMCO bigger machine off the shelf, which I don't think I can move myself without a cart on wheels... well, I can likely move it, but not likely want to carry it, as I'm fond of my feet.? Dear Son is on his way over right now.? Off to the workshop... for fun time!
Tamra
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I would get your bigger machine for a job such as this.? Now many here will say run slow, take very light cuts, etc.? When you have a larger lathe to use, why try the Unimat, unless you just have to do it to show that you can?
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Hi Gang:
Backwards the jaws go in 3-2-1.
Carl.
On 06/26/2024 7:28 PM EDT Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
?
?
?
You didn't specify the length of the part, but it sounds short and stubby so you should be able to hold in reversed jaws.
?
Note:? Jaws must be reinstalled in the correct order in a scroll type chuck.? So, keep track of what jaw came from which slot.
?
I would use a standard HSS tool bit.? Some try to use carbide bits, especially inserts in holders.? However, carbide bits tend to work better when more horsepower and rigidity is available.? And I always try to have bits very sharp.? Sharper than probably most do.? I keep a diamond hand hone at the ready to touch up the cutting edge after grinding it or touching it up while the bit is mounted in the tool post if it dulls a bit.
?
You want a slowish speed and lightish cuts.? If you push things a little too much, the behavior of the machine will usually tell you.
?
If you want a little extra work holding security (although you may not need it) you can center drill the workpiece and then run a ball bearing center (a.k.a.live center or rolling center depending on your location and/or lexicon politics) up against the part.
?
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
?
On Wednesday, June 26, 2024 at 04:14:33 PM PDT, Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...> wrote:
?
?
Ok, I'm going to machine a plug for our paint pot that is being converted to a pressure pot for wood / resin wood turnings for dear husband.? (He has been watching neighbor (in Canada) Jim Sprague on YouTube and has discovered a new calling for his lathe.)??
The diameter of the 1018 steel is 1-7/8" and I need to bring it to something close to 1.5" diameter and will get it welded to the lid.??
It doesn't have to be pretty, but would be nice if it is pretty, so I'm open to lots of suggestions for tool bits to use.? I have standard tool bits but don't usually use them, as I machine brass & wood on the lathe, and I grind my own 1/8" (generally Interstate) tool bits.? ? The reason I was reading the unimat machining booklet was to figure out if I could mount this on my lathe - the instructions to reverse the jaws and in xx order... or if I needed to get the EMCO bigger machine off the shelf, which I don't think I can move myself without a cart on wheels... well, I can likely move it, but not likely want to carry it, as I'm fond of my feet.? Dear Son is on his way over right now.? Off to the workshop... for fun time!
Tamra
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I think the larger lathe may be more appropriate... will see... as I can't remember the accessories - if there are any at all on that lathe.? Son #1 bought that for me at an auction very inexpensively.? The only reason to not use the larger lathe, is I don't know if I can move it, or I don't know if I have a 3 jaw chuck on it or not.? ? I think it is on a lower shelf though, so I could move it to a cart if I had to.? ? I got distracted with the brass bed project and forgot to have him move that lathe for me...?
The only reason to machine this piece of steel on a desktop lathe, is because I can pick one of these up.? It isn't the lathe that is heavy, I think it is the motor....
This might be the time to look at my Machinist's Handbook... I do have one.
Tamra
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Tamra, if you have a 4-jaw independent jaw chuck, that would be better for accuracy. Takes a bit longer to dial it in, but if you're patient you can get the very best accuracy your lathe is capable of.?
You may not need 1.5000" on your part, but you can get it if you want. ? very good 3-jaw chuck can have .003" or more of runout. The one on my "good" lathe was out by .014". So I bought it a 4-jaw independent jaw chuck. For most parts, most people can get by with +/- .005", but as this is getting welded into a pressure vessel you may want a closer tolerance. After I'd practiced a bit, I could get +/- .0005 fairly easily, and .0001"? with a little extra care. You won't do that well at first, and it will take longer to do than with a 3-jaw. But if you use the 4-jaw often, you'll get better quickly. Likely faster than I did... ??
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Wednesday, June 26, 2024 at 11:45:54 PM CDT, Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...> wrote:
I think the larger lathe may be more appropriate... will see... as I can't remember the accessories - if there are any at all on that lathe.? Son #1 bought that for me at an auction very inexpensively.? The only reason to not use the larger lathe, is I don't know if I can move it, or I don't know if I have a 3 jaw chuck on it or not.? ? I think it is on a lower shelf though, so I could move it to a cart if I had to.? ? I got distracted with the brass bed project and forgot to have him move that lathe for me...?
The only reason to machine this piece of steel on a desktop lathe, is because I can pick one of these up.? It isn't the lathe that is heavy, I think it is the motor....
This might be the time to look at my Machinist's Handbook... I do have one.
Tamra
|
A 3-jaaw or 4-jaw will make no difference in accuracy for this part.? It is having its diameter turned down.? It is not necessary to have the stock size diameter running completely true.
A 4-jaw is needed (or a collet) if you having something already machined to some dimension and need to center it accurately.? Or, if you take the part out of the chuck and then put it back in.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, June 26, 2024 at 10:26:31 PM PDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
Tamra, if you have a 4-jaw independent jaw chuck, that would be better for accuracy. Takes a bit longer to dial it in, but if you're patient you can get the very best accuracy your lathe is capable of.?
You may not need 1.5000" on your part, but you can get it if you want. ? very good 3-jaw chuck can have .003" or more of runout. The one on my "good" lathe was out by .014". So I bought it a 4-jaw independent jaw chuck. For most parts, most people can get by with +/- .005", but as this is getting welded into a pressure vessel you may want a closer tolerance. After I'd practiced a bit, I could get +/- .0005 fairly easily, and .0001"? with a little extra care. You won't do that well at first, and it will take longer to do than with a 3-jaw. But if you use the 4-jaw often, you'll get better quickly. Likely faster than I did... ??
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Wednesday, June 26, 2024 at 11:45:54 PM CDT, Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...> wrote:
I think the larger lathe may be more appropriate... will see... as I can't remember the accessories - if there are any at all on that lathe.? Son #1 bought that for me at an auction very inexpensively.? The only reason to not use the larger lathe, is I don't know if I can move it, or I don't know if I have a 3 jaw chuck on it or not.? ? I think it is on a lower shelf though, so I could move it to a cart if I had to.? ? I got distracted with the brass bed project and forgot to have him move that lathe for me...?
The only reason to machine this piece of steel on a desktop lathe, is because I can pick one of these up.? It isn't the lathe that is heavy, I think it is the motor....
This might be the time to look at my Machinist's Handbook... I do have one.
Tamra
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Hi, two comments. Finish. Since you can grind HHS, just grind one to the specifications in the classic Southbend How To Run a Lathe A small tool will work fine. 4 jaw chuck. You may already know, but having two keys is a big help. I'm lucky. My Logan 4 jaw has 1/4" keyholes so I can use two screwdriver handles with 1/4" socket ends. I'm too new with the Unimat to know, but It may be possible to use a handled hex driver with a Robinson bit. Many YouTube tutorials, comes to mind.? I like to read when I can, here is a technique I use from The copy I printed out years ago is now oil paper LOL. Ron
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Tamra;
Some months ago I mounted a 1.5¡±galvanized pipe cap in my SL1000 to turn it down into cylindrical shape from its curved shape.
Using standard Unit Bits, I was able to accomplish the task with shallow cuts and patience.
If you attempt too aggressive a cut, the motor will slow and remind you that a Unimat is NOT a West Bend 6¡± lathe!
Best regards,
John Pratchios
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I took a class in machining, but I learned how to dial in a 4-jaw chuck from Little Machine Shop. I put a 5" 4-jaw my my 7x10 mini-lathe shortly after I got it. A bit too heavy, but very useful.?
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Thursday, June 27, 2024 at 12:07:31 PM CDT, Ron K via groups.io <ron.kellis@...> wrote:
Hi, two comments. Finish. Since you can grind HHS, just grind one to the specifications in the classic Southbend How To Run a Lathe A small tool will work fine. 4 jaw chuck. You may already know, but having two keys is a big help. I'm lucky. My Logan 4 jaw has 1/4" keyholes so I can use two screwdriver handles with 1/4" socket ends. I'm too new with the Unimat to know, but It may be possible to use a handled hex driver with a Robinson bit. Many YouTube tutorials, comes to mind.? I like to read when I can, here is a technique I use from The copy I printed out years ago is now oil paper LOL. Ron
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Ron, thank you for the attachment, for SB How to run a lathe, as this keeps me from trying to find my copy.?
I know where my machinist handbook is though.?
I will review these items that everyone has suggested.
The lathe is an EMCO 7x10 lathe, and it isn't that heavy, so I think I will likely be able to get it to a shelf over the weekend.? I don't think this is a Emco 5 Compact lathe, but it is that same color of yellow.? I do have a 4 jaw chuck...on the EMCO that is much larger then my Unimat...
My piece of steel is 1-7/8" diameter and likely 3" at the present time, but the plug doesn't need a lot of depth, and I will let dear husband determine what amount is parted off, and may call my local welder and ask how much he wants left.? The lid is slightly domed, so I was thinking of using air dry clay to remove my guess of the slope; it is easy to visualize putting a straight edge on the inside of the lid, but having something that I can look at while machining the diameter seems like a good way for me to remove the guess work.??
The part will remain 1-7/8 diameter so it doesn't go through the lid once pressure is applied, but the hole that needs to be plugged measures 1.50" with calipers, so I am hopeful to turn to 1.48" and see if it fits.? I want it tight, but can be removed for the welder's ease.?
Tamra
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Hi Gang:
Don't forget you can tap the stock M12x1 and skip the? chuck.
Or work between centers.
I did some toolpost grinding on lathes with three jaw chucks. I used a soft mallet to make it run true.?
Carl.?
On 06/27/2024 10:10 PM EDT Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...> wrote:
?
?
Ron, thank you for the attachment, for SB How to run a lathe, as this keeps me from trying to find my copy.?
I know where my machinist handbook is though.?
I will review these items that everyone has suggested.
The lathe is an EMCO 7x10 lathe, and it isn't that heavy, so I think I will likely be able to get it to a shelf over the weekend.? I don't think this is a Emco 5 Compact lathe, but it is that same color of yellow.? I do have a 4 jaw chuck...on the EMCO that is much larger then my Unimat...
My piece of steel is 1-7/8" diameter and likely 3" at the present time, but the plug doesn't need a lot of depth, and I will let dear husband determine what amount is parted off, and may call my local welder and ask how much he wants left.? The lid is slightly domed, so I was thinking of using air dry clay to remove my guess of the slope; it is easy to visualize putting a straight edge on the inside of the lid, but having something that I can look at while machining the diameter seems like a good way for me to remove the guess work.??
The part will remain 1-7/8 diameter so it doesn't go through the lid once pressure is applied, but the hole that needs to be plugged measures 1.50" with calipers, so I am hopeful to turn to 1.48" and see if it fits.? I want it tight, but can be removed for the welder's ease.?
Tamra
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Tamra
Carl
Bill in OKC too