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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Carl,
I just salvaged a motor just like yours. It came from a bathroom exhaust fan. Thanks for the heads up on reversing rotation. I don¡¯t know what I will use it for but it was too good to toss. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Keith,
The KB motor control has its own enclosure and is self contained. 120 volt input (USA), forward, reverse, soft start, brake, variable speed and all in a neat package ready to wall mount. Easy to wire also! -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Keith,
I did not buy this unit. It was given to me by my brother who had no use fo it. I have nothing invested in it. Do you still feel it is a waste of my time and money? Dick http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Sun, Sep 12, 2021 at 02:10 AM, OldToolmaker wrote:
KB Multi-Drive Solid State DC Motor Speed Control.?According to the website I'm looking at this costs ?153. A suitable speed controller can be had for less than ?10. Why are you trying to spend more on the speed control and motor than it costs to buy a lathe? On its own it's even more complicated to wire up than a power supply and speed controller. This is total overkill and a waste of money and space. |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
I discovered I have a new KB Multi-Drive Solid State DC Motor Speed Control.? Any suggestions would be most welcome! |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
I have pretty much done exactly as Kieth says, its a 24V scooter motor, linked to a 24V power supply via a 3d printed box, that contains a speed controller (mine I believe was any input up to 40V and 10A or 20A) so plenty man enough for the job, my motor had the toothed belt option, all I did was? run the motor with a 1/4" round file and filed a pulley groove into the belt sprocket. the 24V motor will run continuously without even getting warm.
------ Original Message ------
From: "Keith S. Angus" <keithsangus@...>
To: "Bob T" <zs6bxi@...>; [email protected]
Sent: 10/09/2021 02:30:43
Subject: Re: [Unimat] Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal? Hi Bob, |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Hi Bob,
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It's really far simpler than all that, at least for Unimats and similar sized machines. Yes, series wound universal motors have poor speed characteristics, but are adequate for these little machines. Way back in the forum archives there are examples of people using sewing machine motors quite happily, whether standard ones with mounting difficulties, or overlocker motors which are more or less a drop in replacement. Rewired to have a separate field supply, and using something like a Variac to control the armature voltage might give a good characteristic, but who has that sort of stuff kicking abut in their garage? Well I do, but I've never bothered to try it out! Constant speed is not a requirement. A bit of give in the motor makes it easy to judge how hard the lathe is working. This applies to both small machines and larger lathes using standard induction motors. If you give the operator a precise constant speed he will lose a useful bit of feedback from the machine. Then he would need to watch the ammeter, or some equivalent gauge, and that means diverting attention away from the actual cut. Auto production machines used ammeters to give an indication of tool wear, and similar problems, but for a hobby machine, of whatever size, it is not needed. Bear in mind I run Unimats at home, a large lathe (1 ton weight, 3 HP motor) in my brother's workshop and have access to bigger machines in a friend's industrial machine shop. The small variations in speed when working are not a problem - quite the opposite. The permanent magnet DC motors currently available are fine for the Unimats, and I would look at them for other small machines too. They are rated at much lower speeds under no load, but because of their very different characteristics actually deliver a similar range of speeds when working. Running on a simple unregulated power supply I get a reasonably constant speed and lots of torque - a much better characteristic than the original Unimat motors. Using a PWM speed controller, with no feedback, the speed remains constant enough for our purposes. The motors run cool enough that I can stop worrying about overheating, and they are nice and quiet. I've used my SL for many hours with one of these, with no problems, but that lathe is now in Australia. I shall be fitting a similar motor, maybe a 150 W this time, to my U3. Re-motoring the PC/Basic is a different exercise, since that will include fitting modern high torque steppers for the NC movements. Including programmed speed control and provision for NC screw cutting may take it into a different realm of complication. The whole question of speed control on RC motors is muddled by the Kv factor. The Kv only tell you the voltage needed to achieve a given speed. The motors themselves (all the ones I've dealt with) are three phase motors with a synchronous permanent magnet rotor. The speed is defined by the drive frequency, so constant speed working is simple. The current available determines the maximum torque and the Kv, along with the supply voltage gives you the maximum speed, at which the torque falls to zero. If you have plenty of voltage in hand the motor will maintain a constant speed under varying loads. The problem comes when motors are specified by the size of prop they suit, but it is getting easier to find fuller specifications giving the more usual definitions. So for the little Unimats, and for some bigger machines, I find the DC permanent magnet motors are fine. They only need simple controls, they are cheap to buy, and fit in the available space. Mounting them can be a problem, but with careful planning can be dealt with using the Unimat to make the parts before changing the motor. If you have access to a slightly larger lathe it is simple. There is no point in doing anything more complicated. Regards, Keith On 2021-09-09 00:10, Bob T wrote:
Hi Keith, |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Thu, Sep 9, 2021 at 01:19 PM, Avio Mac wrote:
The specs of the motor used on this project, could be checked right here:This shows the different world we are looking at here. This motor is a bit smaller than the usual U90 and similar, but is rated at 3 kW! It is also quite expensive compared to the common aero/marine motors sold for radio control. My brother used some on a test rig, rated at 1 h.p, but being used below their maximum. He found they had good speed control using their standard drive electronics. I'll look at the other information and maybe call up my local RC shop and see what I can discover, although with the range of motors I have on the shelf I don't really need any more options. |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Hello,
just in case, there are folks out there, that would like to get into the experimentation field of using a brushless motor for radio control hobby use, for powering their minilathe, here you have some more info. Not long ago, I came across some picture and a very brief explanation of a DB-200 re-powered with such type of motors. You can find this posting at the Emco Unimat Group in Facebook or directly on its author Facebook page: For those of you that are not fan of Facebook, here some pics: The specs of the motor used on this project, could be checked right here: If you want to understand the "strange foreign languaje" of Kv factors ans LiPos, I suggest you check this manual, in particular the "Understanding Motors" parragraph: If all this information still isn?t enough, I suggest you watch the EP. 2, of this YouTube channel: Please, do not hesitate to ask or comment. I?m not an expert, however I like this kind of strage stuff. Regards |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Wed, Sep 8, 2021 at 08:18 PM, OldToolmaker wrote:
I just want a quiet, controllable, small motor capable of zero to 4000 rpm or so.Right then - keep it simple. The 24 V DC motors we keep talking about are fine for the job. Power in the range 100 to 150 Watts is fine. I was running my SL on 130 W, and that worked nicely, much better than the original U90 motor. The DC motor runs at about 4000 rpm (depending exactly which one you get), and with the different belt settings I was getting a top speed of about 6000 rpm. The motor ran cool and quiet for hours and was not much affected by the load. A little speed reduction when loaded is good, as it gives you a clear indication of how hard the motor is working just by feel and sound - no need for fancy readouts. you soon get the feel of it. Start with a 24 V power supply. Look for cheap switch mode ones, like Ebay item 164191404772. This is rated at 24 V 10 Amps, so has plenty of capacity. The input is any mains voltage from 100 to 220 V, so it doesn't much matter where you are. A 5 amp supply would be on the limit for a 120 watt motor, so go to the next size up in case the motor you find is, say, 150 watt. Connection is simple - two wires for mains in (plus an earth/ground), two wires for 24 V DC out (Many of these power supplies have multiple output terminals. They are just duplicates.) Connect the 24 V to a speed controller, through a simple ON/OFF switch. I'd use a speed controller like Ebay item 114884468129. It's got a bit of extra capacity which means it will be less likely to blow up on momentary overloads. Again, two wires in. two wires out. Put that lot in a convenient box. I'd like to see it all built into a base under the lathe, so the switch and speed control are close by, but I would also worry a little about swarf getting in and causing problems, especially with the mains voltages. Then again most of these lathes have worked for many years with pretty basic wiring and we don't hear of users getting electrocuted every day. I used an XLR audio connector for the power to the motor. I found the cheap connectors have a good current rating - they use nice solid brass pins. See Ebay 254565060764 for a plug and 124626042788 for a panel socket. This is the type of motor I used: Ebay 174120263625. This one is 150 watt, so it's a bit bigger than it needs to be. The lower power motors, say 100 watt, run a bit faster, and are shorter, so are less likely to get in the way when turning large items where the job or the chuck jaws might hit the motor. The 150 watt motors are a bit slower and longer. I think the best compromise is 120 or 130 watt, but I'd go for a 100 watt rather than 150 watt if that was the simple choice. Points to note: The shaft carries a toothed belt pulley. You can also find them with a sprocket for a chain. The sprocket is easy to get off, but leaves you with a poor shaft. The toothed belt pulley is harder to get off, but leaves you with a better shaft. The wire is at the opposite end from the shaft. This is better to avoiding damage to the wire when the belt rubs against it - guess how I know - see my photos referenced below. Then finally you have to fit the motor to the lathe. You will find one of the screw holes matches the Unimat motor bracket, but you will need to drill & tap another. The rest depends on how you fix the pulley to the shaft, and that depends how long the shaft is. I had to extend mine. others are long enough as supplied. he shaft is usually 8 mm, and the bore of the pulley is 6 mm. It's up to you what you do about that. if you look in Photos for "Keith's DB_SL" you will see how I did it. There are two more (at least) sets of pictures showing other ways to fit the motor, depending on the shaft details. I had to use a shaft extension, so it was convenient to make an adaptor for the motor bracket, and that in turn meant I didn't have to modify the motor in any way. To me that seemed like as good an answer as anything. In the end using the variable speed on the motor with the different belt settings will give you a versatile drive. |
Photo Tailstock updated
#photo-notice
[email protected] Notification
The following photos have been updated in the My upgraded Unimat SL album of the [email protected] group. By: @Fesart <fesart03@...> |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
I just want a quiet, controllable, small motor capable of zero to 4000 rpm or so. I have a 90 DC controller that I could use but don¡¯t know how to match it up to a motor. I am not knowledgeable in this subject and that is my handicap. http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
We are talking a lot, and I am not sure that there have been definitive?answers,?at least that I understand.? Who here has a Unimat currently operating with a normal sewing machine motor?? Not some special expensive thing, not online, not DC, just an AC motor taken from a regular Singer,etc.? Photos?? Do they overheat or are at least as good as the original motor? Thanks to all -- John Hutnick On Wed, Sep 8, 2021 at 2:31 PM Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote: Well, the other option that has been discussed before, and never brought to a conclusion, is to use a brushless motor from the radio control field. They pack a lot of power into a small volume. Controllers are available. Speed control can be reliable. Life is short, but running them at lower than rated power will help with that. |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Well, the other option that has been discussed before, and never brought to a conclusion, is to use a brushless motor from the radio control field. They pack a lot of power into a small volume. Controllers are available. Speed control can be reliable. Life is short, but running them at lower than rated power will help with that.
Previous discussions never got as far as showing an example that works, along with enough information to copy the setup or find an equivalent. It doesn't help that the RC specs are all in a strange foreign language which talks of Kv factors and LiPos instead of RPM, Watts, Amps and Volts. Anyone out there got a working example we can look at? |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Hello,
BLDC motors and its servo-drives are a more expensive alternative solution to replace the original motor on a mini-lathe. However, their higher costs is plenty justified, if you plan on taking advantage of its CW-CCW direction of rotation control capability and wide range of speed settings. On the other hand, I see some difficulties on such upgrade, since Unimat?s have threaded spindle shaft, which could risk getting a loose chuck, while working on a reverse operation. Also, I believe its pretty hard to find a BLDC motor that reaches +5000 rpm, being 4000 rpm the most common top speed, in such a range of power and overall characteristics. Just to have an idea, below you can check these type of motors specs, from one of the leading chinese manufacturer, that offer an easy to integrate motor+servo-drive solution: One last aspect to consider is the fact that some kind of controller is necessary, be it analog or digital. The most simple solution could be something like the one offered in Amazon, however it is very unclear its reliavitly: Here just some thoughts that I have about this topic. Regards |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
I was hoping to find a small BLDC motor and speed control. ?Maybe something similar to the 500 watt BLDC minilathe motor but smaller to suit the DB 200.
--
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Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi
Gang: I had some shaded pole gear motors that I needed to reverse rotation on like this one:
Roll over image to zoom. They had no brush wires to swap. I found if you flip the field winding over the rotation reverses. Carl. On 9/7/2021 9:24 AM, Keith S. Angus
wrote:
In essence you need to reverse the wires to the brushes, OR the wires to the field,whichever is simpler. If you reverse both you will be back to CCW. If you can conveniently bring the wiring out to a switch, or build the switch into the motor, you could make it reversible. |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
In essence you need to reverse the wires to the brushes, OR the wires to the field,whichever is simpler. If you reverse both you will be back to CCW. If you can conveniently bring the wiring out to a switch, or build the switch into the motor, you could make it reversible.
You can also find similar motors sold for overlocker sewing machines, often with clockwise rotation, but here they usually cost more, even though the only difference is that the wiring has been reversed. |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
Hi,
it happens that very recently I was wondering just your same questions, regarding universal type motors and how to reverse its direction of rotation. Its seems to be be very possible and easier than expected. I came across the need for a little universal type motor, of about the same overall size and format of the Geteg Ug-7750, that originally came with my U3. Locally I might get an original Rowic HM-175 motor replacement, that has 120 Watts and reaches 12.000 rpm, that needs no modification in that regard, but costs $190. That is a high price, even with a factory direct discount. Besides, it has a very high speed without load, that I assume is the same for most DB-200/SL-200, but not suitable for a U3, which is designed for a max. 5000 rpm. I guess they have a much greater pulley reduction. On the other hand there are sewing machines motors, most of them of about 100 Watts, and 7000 / 8000 rpm. These costs 1/4 of the Rowic price, but have a standar CCW direction of rotation. However, in this case there is the need for altering the direction of rotation, but also the motor shaft are 8mm in diameter and much shorter than the 10mm x +30mm long of the Ug-7750. So I found the following Youtube video, that explains how to do the job in most electric motors, but in particular the universal type ones, begining at minute 9:04. I also found this article that covers the same topic with much the same conclutions: I hope this helps in some way. Regards |
Re: Sewing Machine Motor w/foot pedal?
On Mon, Sep 6, 2021 at 02:45 PM, Clark Panaccione wrote:
I just set the top speed for whatever I¡¯m doing using buttons on the main controller and use the pedal just like on a sewing machine.I would like to have a circuit which ramps up to the preset working speed rather than being a sudden jerk - just a half second would do. Resistive braking would also be nice, but would need to be more subtle to avoid the chuck unscrewing. Many of the cheap speed controllers allow for a 0 - 5 V input, so this could be a simple add-on. I think the stopping problem could be dealt with using a simple brake on the spindle pulley. When doing repetitive work I found the flat of my hand did a pretty good job - the energy to be absorbed was not huge. |