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No, keep it much simpler - no spindle, no pulleys - just mount the wheel direct onto the motor shaft. To guide the toolbit you need a tilting table to set your basic angle. If you are going to be very

Hello: Yes, that was more or less what I was thinking of. It is the type of grinding wheel that would allow a precise geometry on the faces of a tool made from 4mm/8mm sq. HSS stock. I don't see me

I would set it up with a smallish (50 - 100 mm) diamond grinding wheel, preferably with a flat face (a cup wheel) for tool sharpening. My experiments so far suggest a diamond wheel can give a much

Hello All, Thank you all for detailed information on this question! I got a pair of SKF 6003-2Z bearings from a US ebay seller (item 163649829660). These installed fine and measure around 0.015 mm

Though if the regular drive is powerful enough something like this that slides inside the spindle would be much simpler to make

Hello: As my Unimat 3 came with a Unimat milling table/head combination, I just added a new 24v / 200W motor with electronic speed control like the one I have on the lathe. All I have to do is switch

Thanks. I use the shinier quill on the right in that picture for grinding, too. Here’s one I sketched up one for drilling bigger stuff using parts from a cordless drill - maybe the housing for that

Hello JHM, I have a new(ish) variable speed motor for my U3. I have the original set up on my milling machine attachment. Good to have the versatility of being able to use it in conjunction with the

Hello: I first thought of doing exactly that. But then I thought ... Who would want to spend US$XXX+shipping to replace a Unimat 3 motor of excellent albeit very limited, for another one just like it?

My 2 cents: U3 motors are even harder to find than DB/SL ones. My advice - sell it to somebody who needs one. They fetch around 200 US excluding shipping. wrote:

Hello: Like many other Unimat lathe owners, I have installed a new 24v / 200W motor with electronic speed control on the U3. Works a wonder, does not overheat, recovers gracefully from mistakes

Yea! I love a good ending! And if you hadn't had the problem, you wouldn't have learned as much about the machine, too! I keep acquiring broken and damaged equipment, too. Mostly because I'm too cheap

Hi Clark, I am a little late responding to this message but better late than never. I like your extended spindles. I have also machined a new spindle to accept 8mm watchmaker collets and it worked out

Good news. The motor mill fan cover had been compressed (presumably during shipment) such that it was binding against the fan, thus keeping the motor shaft from turning. When I went to disassemble the

Small correction there - Normal clearance is not C2. C2 is quite a tight clearance for high precision fits, and I doubt you'd find it readily available. Normal or C3 will be fine for the job - after

I suggest 6003-2RS bearings (IE sealed), normal or C3 depending on what is readily available. Use SKF or another respectable bearing company, not cheapo ones from China (except that some SKF bearings

For me or anyone else wanting to get bearings, we are having a lot of fulfilling discussions on the subject. However, can we figure some consensus that will tell me exactly what bearing number to buy,

Hello Keith, I?m very grateful for your outstanding explanations. There, I could find everything I wanted to know on the subject. Best regards, Ricardo.

Hello: I see. Just quoting a source, have no idea.? 8^/ Thank you very much for the heads-up. So the SKF samples I installed, which I do not recall having any markings on the box, would be 'Normal'.

According to the SKF handbook, and my experience, C3 is not the usual bearing everyone uses, although it is being widely offered on Ebay and similar places. Clearance are described as C2, Normal, C3,