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Re: A very useful toolpost accessory
My first set of taps & dies (I'd bought only as needed up until that day) were from HF, IIRC. Cheap Carbon Steel taps. Supposedly tool steel, but who knows? I've actually used some of the larger taps, and they actually worked, too. Usually. I did find that a couple of minutes with a extra fine diamond hone helped a bit. ;) But the real reason I bought the sets was that they were really cheap, and I figured the cases would work well for the taps I'd already bought, and those I'd probably buy in the future. It's more or less worked ok. Except that I got some tools than needed metric taps and dies that don't fit in my tap and die sets. Nothing left-hand thread has a space... Odd threads. Like M8x1.0...? etc. I have a bucket of pill bottles of assorted sizes & systems, and the metric and SAE tap & die sets lean up against it. Gotta find more bottles for the M8x1.0 LH & RH taps and dies I impulse bought the other night when I work up and needed something to do to not dwell on how miserable my guts were feeling... Arrived yesterday, look good. Import Chinese, of course, but appear well made. We'll see! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 11:00:38 AM CDT, Peter Brooks <peter@...> wrote:
It was all going so well... Cheap old taps that I had been using for years. No mention of HSS on the pack, so not surprising really. Anyway, with the help of the wonderful mole grips the broken tap came out in one piece, and with a new set of HSS metric taps all was well. It's a super useful device, dead easy to mount an indicator (and this little borer!) rock-solidly and centrally. I did find that drilling the 8mm hole took a nick out of the 6mm securing bolt... 'that's okay' (I thought), 'I'll just rotate it to line up with the hole when I use the 8mm' - but of course then you can't rotate the bolt to tighten against the T-nut (doh)... so I had to turn a slight 'waist' on the 6mm bolt at the point where the nick was (boy those bolts are hard stuff!). Thanks once again Matt for posting this. |
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Re: Cutting off using Dremel cut off wheels, any advice?
In a perfect world (or perfect shop) you would have separate machines for such work. I KNOW the world is not perfect, and also that most folks don't have the perfect shop, either.? ;) What folks who need to do things like this normally do is cover as much of the machine as possible, set up vacuum extraction ports, and other means of capturing all or most of the grit and dust that they can manage. Might be just an oily rag/paper towel and the hose end of a shop vac c-clamped to the workbench...? Yes, the particles from a cutoff wheel are abrasive grit and binders. Some have fiberglass or other materials to help keep the wheel from breaking up. None of that stuff is good for your lungs, so you should also be wearing a filter mask, and the bits that come off can hurt your eyes, too. So eye protection, as well.? IF you can, you should have a separate "clean area" for your tools, and a "dirty area" for grinding and such. Or you can use shields, covers, towels, shower curtains or something similar to improvise such space. Particularly if you're using the kitchen table, as one of my online friend used to do. :)? I don't know where you're located, nor your financial condition, but I've lived places like Germany and Turkey, where a second vacuum cleaner, or shop vac, is outrageously expensive due to import restrictions or various other reasons. Personally, I've retired only semi-voluntarily, and lost more than half the income I had as little as 5 years ago. When I had money, I bought several shop vacuums, from 1 to 12 gallon size. I have the means to hook one up near where I'm working, when needed. A home vacuum cleaner can be adapted for fairly low cost to let larger particles settle out, and smaller particles be filtered out with a bucket and some plastic pipe. Or just a fan blowing dust and debris in away from the work area...? some examples here:?? &? here:?? That may be way more than you intended to ask for, but I'm procrastinating doing stuff that I need to do because I'm not quite over being sick these past few days.... :) Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 10:30:31 AM CDT, Herman de Leeuw via groups.io <herman.deleeuw@...> wrote:
Hi, quick question here: I wonder about the use of Dremel cut off wheels on the lathe; is that advisable? Reason for asking is that I wonder about the particles these cut off wheels leave during the use. Might these particles be similar to the particles grinding wheels leave during use, ruining a lathe's bed?? Thanks in advance for your help, Herman? |
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Re: A very useful toolpost accessory
It was all going so well...
Cheap old taps that I had been using for years. No mention of HSS on the pack, so not surprising really. Anyway, with the help of the wonderful mole grips the broken tap came out in one piece, and with a new set of HSS metric taps all was well. It's a super useful device, dead easy to mount an indicator (and this little borer!) rock-solidly and centrally. I did find that drilling the 8mm hole took a nick out of the 6mm securing bolt... 'that's okay' (I thought), 'I'll just rotate it to line up with the hole when I use the 8mm' - but of course then you can't rotate the bolt to tighten against the T-nut (doh)... so I had to turn a slight 'waist' on the 6mm bolt at the point where the nick was (boy those bolts are hard stuff!). Thanks once again Matt for posting this. |
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Cutting off using Dremel cut off wheels, any advice?
Hi, quick question here: I wonder about the use of Dremel cut off wheels on the lathe; is that advisable? Reason for asking is that I wonder about the particles these cut off wheels leave during the use. Might these particles be similar to the particles grinding wheels leave during use, ruining a lathe's bed??
Thanks in advance for your help, Herman? |
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Re: Needle bearing WW Spindle
Quinn,
The 8mm WW collets are readily available, but expensive.? Also, just a thought for you, I have made several 8mm solid keyed WW collets to use as arbors for various purposes. Once you have the correct taper dialed in the rest is easy. The same setup can be used to make split collets. You would be amazed how nice they turn out if you work carefully and pay attention to detail. Sav -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
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Re: Needle bearing WW Spindle
Quin,
I have owned a Unimat watch maker WW spindle for many years and it has not given me any problems. I wonder if yours could have an issue with hardened grease. I took my spindle apart and and cleaned all old grease out using solvent and re-greased. The spindle has both needle bearings and a ball thrust bearing. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
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Re: Funny things seen
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýNow I actually did ?laugh out loud at your crack about the very rare hedge clipper attachment!
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Re: Funny things seen
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýBeen on eBay for more than 25 years. Bought from all over the world, and you're right, never saw anything like that before.Might just have to buy it to try it. I have a hedge that needs trimming. Never thought of doing that with my Unimat SL. Best regards, Neal Lewis On 7/21/23 9:21 AM, Peter Brooks wrote:
Spotted on UK Ebay, this SL appears to come with the very rare and hard-to-find hedge-cutting attachment: |
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Re: Question for you guys that are tech savvy
John, these are what I bought:?? The way I'm planning on doing this is a power controller for each motor. The 150 in the part number means it has a 150watt power rating, and the 24 means it puts out 24 volts DC.? I bought these speed controllers:?? They'll control 12-60 volt DC motors up to 10 amps. Got them because I wanted them a bit over-rated for the supplies I'm using. Also, they will fit in the boxes I bought. They're not perfect for what I want, but they were cheap!? I wanted individual power supplies, where some other folks wanted a single power supply to run more than one motor. If you wanted to run two of the 150watt motors, you'd need at least a 300watt power supply, maybe more.? HTH! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Wednesday, July 19, 2023 at 11:05:21 AM CDT, John Hutnick <johnhutnick@...> wrote:
Assuming that I have a 24v DC motor, exactly what power supply and what controller do I buy(referring to Ebay)? I do not want to get these items and then someone here tells me that they are not the right ones.? I am in the US.? Thank you for any advice. |
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Re: Wiring up motor
According to my Ohm's Law calculator, a 250watt motor at 240vdc will draw a bit over 1amp. A 5 or 10 10amp rated bridge rectifier should work fine to get your 240VDC (max rated voltage). A 1amp rectifier would be a little too likely to fry itself one of these days. Looks like the usual motors for the SL & DB run around 5000rpm, so the belts & pulleys should work with a bit of adaptation. A speed control for the motor, OTH, is likely to to be a problem. Those cards aren't cheap.?? One the 24VDC system I'm working on, the plan is to use the motor speed control with the pullies and belts to have the motor run at speed that take best advantage of both motor and pulley system. That's going to include a slow speed motor mount, and new pullies as needed. I've got a couple of hundred dollars in my setup before I even assemble it, but I got parts to make 3 controllers for the three motors I bought. Looking at making very light-duty toolpost grinder out of the third motor. Also putting together a DC battery pack to run it off-grid... Yeah, I'm a nut! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 01:55:54 PM CDT, Neil Morrison <neilsmorr@...> wrote:
That should be OK to get you the 240 volts you need.? A full wave bridge and a 350 VDC capacitor will convert this to DC. A speed control for this will be tricky however. Was that in your plans? Neil ----- On Tue, Jul 18, 2023 at 5:08?AM phill005 via <phill05=[email protected]> wrote: Hi, |
Bill in OKC too
Herman de Leeuw
OldToolmaker
Tom Angell