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Hello: I was thinking of a shrowd, piece of aluminium tubing using ~3/4 of the circumference. The thing needs its airflow. The motor is also relatively far away from the source of the swarf. ie: down

Hello: Yes ... Thank you for that. Made me stop and reflect on all that has been posted. That said, it would seem (to me, YMMV) that we have very quickly lost sight of something important. That

Hi Keith: The true center line of a threaded shaft is very hard to measure, do you check the major diameter, the pitch diameter, the minor diameter? (at work I designed sub micro gauges) Perhaps

Wouldn't the same screw in the same threaded hole mate at an identical place every time? ( I honestly don't know!? :-) The accuracy of the run of the groove might be a more critical factor if we are

Personally, I find (on the U3) that the mill at 90 degrees to the bed isn't a good place, I generally prefer to get the mill spindle somewhere around central between the rails of the bed - which

Peter, Isn't it the action of the key on the shaft to keep the head position central to the axis of the lathe, then you have the crossslide table able to position to any other angles? Phill

Put some sort of box around the motor, non magnetic, (aluminium or plastic). The extra distance away will reduce the magnetic attraction and it will be easier to clean the dust off. Use a sealed box

The important feature of the triangular key is that, when clamped, the wider flat face (the hypotenuse of the triangle) is wedged against the corresponding faces of both the column and head giving

Hi Gang: What about the run-out of the cone on the clamping screw? Carl.

Peter, I think you bring up a good point. I especially like your idea of having a column with vertical v grooves and mating “ V “ set screw or point of some kind. Dick --

Hello: Indeed ... Had not thought of that, my lack of experience clearly showing. I have seen some milling heads which seem to be like what you describe. A long rod which served as a guide to keep the

Hello: On Thu, Nov 28, 2024 at 05:41 PM, Julius Henry Marx quotes himself: I neglected to mention that while it would indeed be optimal, it is a lot more work at the time to grind the grrove in the

Hello: That's what I was referring to when I suggested "... a long triangular key where two same length sides center the part. " The thing that looks like a 'T', attached photo in my last post. The

A simpler solution could be a symmetrical v-groove in the column and a matching pointy-ended bolt (there’s probably a better name for that!) to fit it. Would it have the holding power? Maybe it

Hello: In my specific case, I have five or six of these series rs-555-XX motors. Two of them from some model of B&D battery operated screwdriver, complete with gearboxes. That is why I am using one of

For my taste, I just prefer regular motors.? On Sherline, I use their external motor.? The Cowells has a power feed/threading gear drive.? On the Maximat, you have regular gear feeds.? I have

Hi, I have some Unimat SL/DB original accesories that either I am not using, or have two of them. I am in Spain and could ship within EU if interested. I have everything on my family home, and will be

Hi Gang: I set up my Erector Set motor as a power feed once; the gear box provided 2 speeds in both directions. The link was the flexible shaft attached to a hex socket that matched the nut on the

Hi Gang: A key on the 28mm column is still very close to the center of the shaft. A 1?m error would be a 10?m error at the spindle. Also the fit of the triangular key is critical. What if you added

There seems to be some resistance to using stepper motors, which surprises me. They are standardised, cheap, and easy to wire up with cheap controllers, and can give repeatable positioning. Can anyone