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Looks like that says 240W on it. Watts = Volts x Amps. So for a 220v dc output, it requires approx 1.1 Amps draw. The power supply below is for a 60v 480w DC output with 8 Amps. That power supply has

Hello Carl, I am in the UK so have 230-250v AC power, we have found the lathe (now discontinued) and the controller? at

The label reads 220V DC, not AC. (Yes Uk and Europe domestic mains is 220-250V AC.)

Hi Bill, Been advised it's see below, I have been playing with a 24v DC motor and controller but I am getting it shut down as the speed increases so I don't know what is wrong on that, A friend called

Hello Phill: Do you have 220 volt power in your shop? This motor may have come from Europe where 220 is standard. If you don't, there are "step up" transformers you could use, I would look for a 220

If you're in Europe, you need a 220-240VDC power supply, or you could possibly run it from a rectifier, if such are available. Looks to me like it's pretty small, since the usual size of those

Not my area of expertise but I suspect “small” is a relative term! 220VDC isn’t something I would associate with hobby equipment. Regards Mehmood

Hi, Can anyone help me determine how to wire this motor up to use on a Uninmat SL please. I have just been given this motor it is said to have come off a small lathe and that is all we know. I see It

You could always query the vendor to be extra sure.? But his drive belt page looks pretty clear to me.? He has a section for the DB/SL which would suggest they all use the same belts.? And another

Just to be sure - will these belts equally serve the UNIMAT DB/SL as well as UNIMAT 3? Op 15-07-2023 17:57 schreef Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...>: I got belts from Doug Feistamel at his site at

The current inch definition is exactly 25.4mm. 254/2 is exactly 127. 127 is a prime number so an exact solution involves a 127 tooth gear. 127 is a lot of teeth for a gear. Depending on the

https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/atq/d/seattle-unimat-db-200-mini-lathe/7643940071.html $450. Not sold by me. Use the link.

This is very interesting. Could you share some details on the implementation? Thanks, Andrei ________________________________ Sent: Monday, July 17, 2023 3:38 PM To: Steve Johnson

It's certainly simple, it works very well, and is a cheap solution.

I don't see any point in fitting large motors, motors that don't suit variable speed, motors that have far more power than is needed, motors that simply don't fit. Many of us have gone down the route

For the BEST accuracy and concentricity, you're supposed to turn between centers on a lathe. If you want the ultimate possible concentricity, you grind the centers on the lathe immediately before the

I ’m making a kind of reference rod on my U3, with the aim of making it as concentric to the spindle as possible. So (following the procedure in Doug Collinge’s ‘Make an ER-16 Collet Holder for

I remember reading somewhere that a better transposing gear for metric is 63/80. You may want to research that a bit before committing to the giant 127 tooth one. As usual, your mileage may vary

Sounds like a good thing I finally got a follower rest for my larger lathe, since I can't seem to find M8x1 allthread. Looks like I either need 127/120 tooth change gears, or taps and dies. Also gotta

The woodworking version was designed for hand-held tools, and as you can see there is no feed screw! Clearance may be an issue (along with many others) for anyone wishing to add extended way bars.